Braiding Business 101

[grandevanillablonde]

Hello everyone! This is my very first post, :winkgrin: although I have used the forums in the past to research a question or issue with one of my horses…It’s been a long time! Anyway, a close barn buddy of mine told me this would be a great place to get a few questions answered. My apologies if this topic has already been addressed…I’m still learning the ropes here.

I just have a few questions about the braiding business. I’ve been a “freelance” braider for many years now, but have never done it professionally. Just here and there for trainers/friends over the years. While I admit to needing some practice before venturing into the BIG A circuit shows, I HAVE braided for some rated shows, IHSA shows, Holsteiner inspections, 4-H shows, etc. It is not something I want to do full time, as I am a new mom and still work Per Diem at a hospital, but just here and there for some of the shows in the area. I am fortunate that I live in a wonderfully populated horse area with an array of shows from all different levels. I already have an idea of how I would advertise and get my name out there, so that isn’t really an issue that I wanted to address. However, if there are any braiders out there reading this right now, I do have a few questions:

1. What is your policy on payment? Does the customer pay before/after the braiding? Do you only accept payments in person or do you also accept mailed checks? I obviously don’t expect the owner/trainer to stand there and watch me the entire time while I braid,(for time sake) just wondering what the norm is. When I braided in the past I knew the owner/trainer personally so it was never an issue.

2. Given the horse has the “ideal” mane/tail to braid (meaning it’s pulled correctly, and is the perfect thickness), how long does it take you to braid a mane/tail. While I admit I am out of practice, and WILL get faster with it, I am NO WHERE near the quickness of the braiders I was watching on youtube last night. I was in awe of their skills and how fast they can work. Do you have any tips (besides practice of course) to gaining the “rhythm” of braiding quickly, yet perfectly? I feel as though I need to work on this before venturing out.

3. What is your policy if the horses’ mane you are going to braid is not is “braiding” shape, meaning it’s too thick, needs pulled, is dirty, etc. Do you pass this horse up and move on to the next client, or do you just pull/trim away and then charge more? A couple years ago, a close friend of mine asked me to braid his mare for an inspection. He should have known better, but he cut the mane instead of pulling it which led to a super short, thick mane that I literally could not braid. I didn’t have my thinning shears with me (I don’t like to use them, but I was desperate) so I did what I could and it didn’t look pretty. Just wondering what the best thing to do in this type of situation is.

4. Do you ask the customer what his/her braiding preferences are before starting (colored yarn vs traditional, pinwheel vs braid wrapped around tail, charm in mane for the ponies, you get the idea), or do you just do what you want for every horse? How much do you cater to the client for special requests?

Again, I am NOT aspiring to do this professionally and full time, but here and there at some up coming shows in my area. There is one in particular I am looking at in October, so I have some time to polish my skills. I have some wonderful hunter/jumper connections in the area that I feel could refer me if I want to expand…I’m just getting my ideas together at this point. I really do appreciate any input and I thank you for reading this! If I can figure out how to post pictures I certainly will as I get “back into braiding shape”. Thanks again for you time and input!

[alternate_universe]

While not a braider myself, I am fairly certain you cannot just braid a mane however you want. lol People WILL sometimes want colored yarn or a charm added. If you braid dressage horses, some owners may have a preference for more braids vs. fewer braids in order to flatter the horse’s neck. If you have a website or fliers you post, you could include what kinds of braiding you do (button braids, rubber band, sewn in) and then, when customers schedule you, ask about yarn colors and such.

[woodhillsmanhattan]

1. I have had some issues collecting payment before so I tried to give people incentive to not pay late. I give a $5 discount per service (so if they get mane and tail it’s $10 off) for customers that pay me in advance (the first day of the show I braid or earlier). Any braiding not provided (due to them scratching or some other circumstance) is refunded before the end of the show Sunday. Other than that all checks or cash are due in my hands or in the envelope I staple to the stall door by Sunday morning. My braiding bill is stapled on the stall door next to the envelope or put in the tack trunk as well. My number and mailing address is listed on the bill. If I don’t receive payment by around noon on Sunday I expect it to be mailed to me and a $5 late payment is added.

2. It takes me 35 minute to an hour depending on the thickness I’d mane, length of neck, and behavior of the horse.

3. Occasionally I will blade the mane to shorten it with clipper blades. Not all horses are good for their manes to be pulled and I would rather not open the can of worms and find out with a strange horse late at night. That being said, I rarely mess with the mane. Once you get good enough to be braiding professionally you should be able to make even “bad” manes look neat and tidy. You may have to tie off your braids at different spots or take smaller/larger sections. I sometimes start at the bottom with the iffy looking manes and play around with changing my tie off style for 2-3 braids to see what lots best (those braids are under the saddle pad usually anyway)

4. Unless requested all the horses I braid get braided in yarn that matches the color of their mane. I have navy yarn if they ask for it. Any other colored yarn they can supply it if they want it as I am a traditionalist ;). I typically do a pinwheel for the tail as I think it looks the best. I will do a wrap braid at the end if I am feeling lazy but not usually. Ask ahead of time if the horse rubs and needs to be tied, and always do those ones as close to the end as possible.

Other tips:

• I have had problems with people leaving in braids over night and not telling me. That’s fine, unless I show up at 2AM just for your horses and find them all still braided. Not a happy camper. It also sometimes messes up the number of horses I can commit to and I could have earned a lot more money if I had known braids would be left in. So my policy is that I must be notified AHEAD OF TIME that braids will be left in. I will double check these horses last thing the next morning and do touch ups for $5-$15 depending on how many braids I fix (if none obviously there is no charge). Those who did not notify me ahead of time I do not do any touch ups.

• Do all braiding in the stall. The horse will likely be more relaxed and you don’t have to worry about breaking cross ties in the aisle, spooking, loose horse, etc. Plus the water bucket makes for a perfect water source to wet your braids with a sponge!

• On thatnote, I like to just use a sponge and water for braiding. I have had a few horses not like spray bottles and it’s best to just keep it simple and not have the horse spook or get nervous while you are on the ladder.

• the horses tend to be best behaved in the early early morning (1AM-4AM). I try to do the bulk of my braiding during those hours because the horses are more worried about snoozing than being naughty ;). It’s peaceful and quiet but before feeding time. I find the grooms start getting it the show 5AM or later (there are the occasionally 4:30 AMers.

-Try to know what classes each horse goes in. It is usually written somewhere in the tack room, but I typically ask what class and whether they we’ll be hacking or lunging in the morning when they initially hire me. Then have a copy of the class schedule for the horse show. You don’t want to be caught braiding a horse last at 5 AM when it goes in the first class at 8 AM and has to be hacked in the ring or lunged or something at 5:30 or something. That also gives you more flexibility to maybe braid some horses during the day/afternoon if they go late. I also show so I try to have everyone done by 6 AM so I can just focus on my own stuff the rest of the day.

-Buy a head lamp. You look silky but it makes life easier when there is limited light and limited outlets in the temporary tent stalls!

-Don’t fill a water bucket unless it is completely or close to Empty. I had a trainer semi panic on me because she thought her horse didn’t drink anything the night before. After that I always bring post it notes to let customers know if I had to re fill water :).

• Don’t wear earphones. 1. You are alone on a sketchy show grounds at 2AM and it’s better to be safe than sorry. 2. You are alone with lots of horses around you that might get cast, start colicing, escape their stalls, etc. Bring a portable radio or wear only one earphone if you would like to listen to music. I personally enjoy the late night sounds of munching, snoozing ponies, and crickets

That’s all I can think of. Good luck!

[yourcolorfuladdictio]

1. I’ve always gotten payment upfront, if that is a problem do it half before and half once they return to inspect the braiding job. But this means you’ll need a safe place for clients to deliver checks while you are off braiding another horse so that you aren’t being interrupted to take payment.

2. It depends upon the type of braiding. If we’re talking hunter braids and your client wants the ones perfectly in a line even though the horse has a roller-coaster neck it might take longer. A straight neck would be easiest but most have a crest. If I were doing AA show braids I’d expect to take an hour and a half to 2 hours because I am slow and I’m a perfectionist, but that horse/pony would be braided to the 9’s. If I’m doing C show medal finals braids they’d probably take me half the time and I wouldn’t change as much. Dressage braids take me about 35 minutes to yarn in, 15 minutes to band in, and 1 hour do sew in. I do not sew them in unless specifically requested and it generally costs more.

3. I’m generally extremely honest in this type of situation. Treat it like you would your friend. Tell them that the mane needs to be washed/thinned/pulled before you can do a decent job and they are usually extremely accommodating especially if you offer to do it for an extra fee. Don’t make the fee so high that you sound like you’re just digging for gold, but don’t make it so low that people may take advantage of this service and waste your valuable time. Determine how much each 15 minute segment of your time is worth based on how long it takes for you to braid and how much you charge and then determine based on that how much each 15 minute segment of time costs. Then determine how long each task will take you on a worst case scenario basis and come up with one flat rate for each. As for manes that are almost unbraidable, tell them, they may pay you more to try your best.

4. I always attempt to keep the customer happy. Especially if you are good enough to charge well, make them happy and they’ll be repeat customers even if you’re slow (they’ll prefer slow and fantastic to fast and sloppy any day). Most of the time you’ll find that they have some desire. Dressage riders tend to want either 11 or 13 braids on the neck and have different tastes in how the forelock should look. Many C show hunters at medal finals don’t care if the braids are a bit bigger but the AA show riders will want small perfectly aligned braids and their tails all braided the same. The whole barn will be braided in the same fashion. I do, however, think it wouldn’t be out of the question to request that those who want special colored yarn provide their own if you provide all the normal colors (white, black, chestnut, etc). Also, it’s VERY important to some people that you braid paint manes in the proper colors so when it goes from black to white the yarn must change, but others prefer it doesn’t (drama!).

Anyway, it’s really up to you but I always love to keep my customers happy and then they come back for more. I charge some of the highest prices, I’m not the fastest but I’m a braiding perfectionist. Most of my business is by word of mouth and I do a lot for the 4-h shows at a lower cost to support the children as well.

[Anne]

I am a retired semipro braider, but can help you. OP, you would be best served to find a local professional braider and attach yourself to that person. You can then pick up his or her extra work. Many braiders are always looking for helpers.

Most people leave a bill and an envelope on Saturday night and expect to be paid by Sunday midday. I’ve called banks to verify funds before I deposit the checks before, for people I don’t know. “Bad pays” quickly get a bad reputation; this is another reason a pro friend can help you navigate your local waters.

A mane and a tail takes an average A circuit braider about an hour and fifteen minutes. DO NOT ever undercut the local professional braiders in terms of price. This it the fastest way to make enemies of the very people who can help you get work and improve your techniques. Charge what your local market bears, and ask a pro if you aren’t sure.

@yourcolorfuladdiction;7692991

Tell them that the mane needs to be washed/thinned/pulled before you can do a decent job and they are usually extremely accommodating especially if you offer to do it for an extra fee.

In A circuit land, you won’t see your clients until they pay, if you even see them then. Most clients don’t want to be called at 3am because Dobbin’s mane needs to be pulled. I just pull it, and bill them.

You don’t need white yarn. There is no such thing as a white mane, no matter how clean it is. White yarn only makes manes look dirty. Use light grey or a light pastel color (blue, lavender, etc.) on these. Some people like colors and some don’t, so if you like colors and you braid really well, ask the people before you do it. If your braids aren’t perfect, no colors!

Also make sure you ask the client which horses need to be tied (with a yarn loop and access to hay and water) and do them as late as possible. Clients should leave tail bandages on the stall, as well as any sleazy-type clothing if they want you to put that on when you finish. Tails should also be done late and then wrapped.

[twotrudoc]

Oh Anne I love you, just say no to the white yarn :lol: I use a particularly lovely shade of what I call Pee Stain White.

I am on my way to retiring from braiding, as soon as I finish my Masters in a few years. Although I have slowed it down, I am still super busy. I have two shows this weekend, I lucked out because the third show decided to go low key and no one is braiding. I do hunters and dressage as well as breed shows.

Thick blunt cut manes are normal at AQHA and APHA shows. I have one trainer (she is also a judge and really well educated in the “real” hunters) whose manes are always perfect at those but mostly you have to thin as best and work with it. It can get interesting.

It takes me 40 minutes to an hour per mane. I did one this morning, one of my favorite people just bought this really gorgeous hunter mare with a mile long neck, it took me an hour or more. It always takes me longer the first time to get the feel of the neck and mane. Tonight I am going to pull a little and it will take much less time, about 50 braids. I have found that if I have a large number to do I can move lightning fast-but I really prefer to take my time and did today :lol:

Don’t share a sponge using water buckets! ICK! I do dip my hand in the bucket for forelocks to dampen but I use a spray bottle on the mane and tail, fast and easy no mess.

I mostly work for BNTs, so unless they are friends I have no idea whose horse is whose. Not much of a problem collecting although I had a few slow pays a year or so back, I almost considered sending them to collections. I invoice (I also have a WA State UBI # and EIN) ASAP and it says all are due by 6 am the last day of the show. Actually now I think about it I have 5 outstanding from the APHA show two weeks ago but I know them well enough they mail. Most of my people can mail if need be but I don’t allow it for newbies.

I actually charge less than most but when I do back up for others I go with their prices. I have my own clientele and everyone knows I have my own thing going. Of course, I have a day job too. I am trying to be a “Boutique Braider” which translates to “I am too tired to do any more so I really just want to do certain shows and horses and my friends horses” :lol: I have too many friends.

Sometimes I can’t wait to quit, but then people buy gorgeous horses and I can’t wait to see how many perfect braids I can put on that neck.

[SnicklefritzG]

“Sometimes I can’t wait to quit, but then people buy gorgeous horses and I can’t wait to see how many perfect braids I can put on that neck.”

That’s how I feel about braiding my horse. Sometimes I think ok, I don’t really want to do it because I’m not that good at it. To get decent braids, I’ll need to spend 2-3X the amount of time as everyone else. But then I think about how handsome my horse will look and I do it anyway.

[grandevanillablonde]

WOW!!! Thanks SO much for the great advice so far. I really do appreciate it! Getting advice from individuals who have been in the business is a wealth of knowledge for me. I am really excited about this, and now (I’m at work right now…on a break though) I just want to get to the barn and start practicing. I am braiding a horse tonight for a small show tomorrow, but need to put in some serious practice time before I go out to customers.

Thanks again to all of you who responded. I’ll try to keep you posted on how things go…with pictures too!

[twotrudoc]

[QUOTE=SnicklefritzG;7693794]
“Sometimes I can’t wait to quit, but then people buy gorgeous horses and I can’t wait to see how many perfect braids I can put on that neck.”

That’s how I feel about braiding my horse. Sometimes I think ok, I don’t really want to do it because I’m not that good at it. To get decent braids, I’ll need to spend 2-3X the amount of time as everyone else. But then I think about how handsome my horse will look and I do it anyway. :)[/QUOTE]

Yes, yes! But it needs to be my horse, not theirs :lol: But when I do buy my fancy pants Ayrab that things mane is going to look like 48 perfectly painted on braids. squeeeee

[grandevanillablonde]

Braiding Business 101 UPDATE

So just a little update. I just got home from braiding for a friend who will be taking 8 of her horses and students to a show tomorrow. I know there is a risk with braiding the night before a show, but she was willing to take it. I braided a lovely big bodied TB with the IDEAL mane. I did have to tidy up her mane a little (trimmed with scissors, apparently she freaks out when you pull) , but overall she was a good horse to braid after my long “vacation” from braiding. I am my worst critique and came to the conclusion that I need some practice to get back into shape. The braids were good but, in my opinion not excellent or “A” quality. My biggest issue is making the braids exactly uniform. I know all the braids are supposed to be even on the bottom, and I had some issues here. If any of you are reading this that responded earlier, I have just a few questions:

1. What do you do with the remaining 3/4 inch or so of mane that doesn’t get braided? (The end of the braid hairs). I know you are never supposed to cut it, so how do you tuck it into the braid without jacking up the entire braid? I watched many youtube videos, and John the Braider seems to really have it down. I for the life of me CANNOT figure out how he does those knots and how he “tucks” those remaining strands into the braid.:lol: Can anyone explain their sequence or tricks that makes this easier? I managed to squish the hairs into the braid, but honestly I did trim a few of the really long hairs.

2. I know all manes are different, but APPROXIMATELY how many “crossovers” are you getting into each braid? I was trying to make each braid the exact same length by counting each time I crossed over. At around the 8th crossover I would incorporate the yarn into the braid, and then get to about 11 or 12 before tying the yarn off.

I realize braiding takes practice and I am willing to commit. It annoys me that I didn’t do a perfect job tonight and was literally picking apart my braid job. I did take a photo on my cell phone, but need to figure out how to post pictures. Thanks again for reading and for offering your suggestions thus far. I have learned a great deal already from the responses I received. Thanks so much!

[twotrudoc]

Leave the ends, I took some pics of a horse I did a few hours ago, she has about 1" or more of tail on each braid (I’m working at it, her pull had the poll shorter than the mid section, I like the line to be longest at the poll then taper to the wither, so I left some length where I really don’t need it for now). When you pull them up, the tail should nest against the neck and help hold the braid straight. If you do a surgeons knot (wrapped twice when you tie under after you pull up, it will cement the tails where they should be. The few that may be seen, keep practicing John’s technique-that’s what I do too.

You get the bottom line straight by making sure each braid is the same length, all your knots when you braid down should be in a line.

This mare has 12 twists, I count on the right so a total of 24 cross overs each braid. Towards the wither, there are 9 on the right or 18 total. Pics aren’t great but the sun hadn’t come up all the way yet so very little light (and she did take a lot less time today now that I have more of a feel for her mane).

http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/ac305/fassopony/1406987012_zps2df01622.jpg

http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/ac305/fassopony/17bdb22e-e5b3-4efe-872f-0e0afa1ba6c8_zps31d564be.jpg

This angle shows my line and angle is not quite yet perfect-

http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/ac305/fassopony/1406987006_zps84e1e4d3.jpg

For the AQHA and APHA shows I do smaller braids, they hold better because those folks leave’em in for the entire show!

This one had 8 (16 total) at the poll then down to 6 (12 total) at the wither, this was 3 days in I think so they held up fairly well (although I really do prefer fresh braids)-

http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/ac305/fassopony/6527b4de-842d-40aa-9450-b6fe4a9063e5_zps5adcf20b.jpg

I out the yarn in the last few twists, 3 at the most. Otherwise you can see it if you look :lol:

[comingback]

Make sure when you pull up you are popping the knot into the crest. That should make the tail lie flat on the neck. Then it is easy to tie it as part of the braid.

I have no problem with this, and if it is a problem, the mane is just too long.

I generally do about 12-13 crossovers total (varies by horse and neck conformation), adding at the last three or so twists.

[SidesaddleRider]

All good advice for OP, but I just want to dispute that white yarn is never needed. If you are braiding a pinto, you probably WILL need it. Mine has white hair for the lower half of her mane, and white yarn is a perfect match. I have left white yarn out for new braiders who are braiding her and did not believe me (they were insisting that it would not work and they would HAVE to use gray), and when I get out in the AM… yep, braided in white for the lower half, and usually a “you were right” note left!

[woodhillsmanhattan]

Ditto what twotru said

[twotrudoc]

[QUOTE=SidesaddleRider;7695050]
All good advice for OP, but I just want to dispute that white yarn is never needed. If you are braiding a pinto, you probably WILL need it. Mine has white hair for the lower half of her mane, and white yarn is a perfect match. I have left white yarn out for new braiders who are braiding her and did not believe me (they were insisting that it would not work and they would HAVE to use gray), and when I get out in the AM… yep, braided in white for the lower half, and usually a “you were right” note left! ;)[/QUOTE]

I’ve braided and banded WC Pintos, Pee Stain White is always the match. The worst thing is to have blinding white making your mane look dingy, blech. And grey would never be used in a white mane, so I’m not sure where that idea would come from? Maybe they were out of the proper color?

This is what I use, it looks white but it is an un-dyed natural light cream color-or Pee Stain White

http://www.redheart.com/yarn/super-saver-economy/aran

[Anne]

I’m the one who suggested grey for anything but a truly white mane. Having seen SidesaddleRider’s turnout, I have no doubt that she can get a mane truly white, but she may be in the minority!

[twotrudoc]

Do you use grey in white often? How does it look? I have a charcoal grey but I use for the mid-greyed out ones, salt and pepper hair.

[grandevanillablonde]

“Pee-stain-white” LOVE IT!!! Again, I am so appreciative of the tips! Twotrudoc: Your braids look amazing in the photos you provided.

After my braid job last night, I was asked by the barn owner today if I would braid for them again in a couple weeks for another show…and at the end of the month there is another show in town that I may be braiding another horse for. I will definitely be thinking of all that I read on here while tackling these manes and tails! I will be sure to post pics! As for practice, looks like my retired show horse will need his mane pulled once again (I’ve “let it go” the last few years since his retirement…he always hated his mane pulled, and I never liked being pinned against the wall while in the process). He will love the attention I’m sure. Again, thanks to all of you!

[Midge]

1. I leave a bill and envelope on the stall door. If I am braiding for a stranger, I might try to be there at arrival time on the last day so I can say, ‘I left your bill and an envelope on your stall door.’

2. It takes me about a hour, mane and tail, give or take. But, you should not worry about time. How long it take you does not matter. You will get faster and better as your practice. There is no need to meet some arbitrary speed. Braiding is not a race.

3. I am never surprised by the condition of the hair. Braid long enough and you will see everything. If it’s dirty, braid it anyway. If it is unbraidable as is, your choice is attempt to pull it or leave them a note telling them you couldn’t braid it and why.

4. I do not ask preferences. I am a one trick pony and hunter braids with yarn are all I do. If I braid a dressage horse, they get slightly bigger hunter braids. If I plait a jumper, they get big giant hunter braids bumped up higher. If someone has a preference for a color or a charm, I am happy to do it. But I generally cannot braid with the average skein of yarn. I will go and get my own in the color you want. I do pinwheels on the tail unless requested otherwise.

The trick to an even line on the bottom is to make each braid exactly the same size. The thicker parts will be closer together, the thinner parts farther apart. Do the same number of twists on every braid. I do ten. Five twists, add the yarn, then five more. That works for me and may, or may not, work for you. You’ll find the right number. Start your braid with the same side every time. If your braids tend to slant one way or the other, change the side you start with.

Look down at the top of your horse’s crest and think of the section you are making into a braid as a square. The bottom left corner of the square needs to go into the left section of hair. The bottom right corner of the square needs to go in the right section.

Also your bottom line should not be a straight line down the neck, it should follow the line of the crest.

I don’t even go as light as pee stain white. I have grey, black, and brown. I have a palomino pony as a customer that gets a beige color and an oddly colored chestnut that gets light brown but a mane that won’t work with grey black or brown is a rarity.

Do you pull your knot into the crest? Where do you tie off the bottom of the braid? I knot off to the side. When I pull up, I pull on the yarn with one hand and pinch the knot between my thumb and forefinger with the other. As I pull on the yarn, I curl the knot under so the tail is between the two sections of braid. Pull the knot into the crest and a whole lot of the tail will be hidden. If you have huge amounts of tail left over, the mane is too long.

If you want to test a horse’s tolerance for mane pulling, start in the middle and take just a few hairs. If they are really bad (or perhaps have been successful at intimidating other pullers) you might find out when you tease up the hair.

Good luck!

[purplnurpl]

I have issues getting payments. I prefer to braid through the night as well but usually end up braiding from the hours of 8pm to 6am, then I take a a break at feeding time. It’s impossible for me to braid during feeding time and if I can i’ll sneak away to take a 3 hour nap or so.
The horses are nice a quiet at night. And no one is there to turn me into chatty Cathy. ; ) I also don’t wear head phones. and I looooooove my head lamps. I wear them even in the daytime now. I wear a stupid looking bandanna around my forehead with braiding lamp.

I try to make sure everyone leaves payment in their tack box. Its tough to get everyone to remember though and I end up chasing people around. And after 30 or 40 braid jobs that’s rough.

[B]I have a question:
how do you guys take care of your hands? I have to start loading on advils and Voltaren gel about 3 days out. I also have to sleep in compression gloves for a few days afterwards.

And my back starts to hurt after about 10 hours or so. I probably need to get a wrap around back brace. [/B]