[QUOTE=keysfins;9001467]
Question for Beowulf:
Does the tanning process have an effect on oiling leather? The posts above describe soaking in oil and ending up with a nice “hand” to the leather. It sounds like some of the items were older/ancient leather, possibly tanned with the chromium?
Any input on oiling, Beowulf? Mineral vs. vegetable? I asked one of my trainers about it a few months ago after reading a thread here, and she said yes, it was done with new leather items, and she would do it for a bridle, using neatsfoot oil. I’ve never oiled anything so have no experience with it.[/QUOTE]
the tanning process absolutely affects what type of oil or conditioner works best. Chromium tanned leather does better with conditioners while I personally think that vegetable tanned leather is more versatile and can do with either/or.
There’s a whole world out there on conditioner vs oil… One thing: animal fat-based conditioners (so that’s Hammanol, Oakwood, Tad Coffin) and animal-fat based oils (Neatsfoot) seem to do the vegetable tanned leathers the greatest services – but in a pinch, any oil or conditioner will do - vegetable tanned leather seems to be much less picky.
Chromium tanned leather is harder to permeate, so I think a good conditioner is going to do a better job.
Mineral vs vegetable… Mineral has no nutritional qualities - but it’s actually in many conditioner products as a petroleum. Hard-core snobbists will say no petroleum products - because petroleum products as a whole tend to be incredibly hydrophobic (Doesn’t Play Well With Others/Water). That’s fine and dandy if you want to waterproof your leather, but the problem with petroleum and mineral oil is that it is too hydrophobic; it traps/barricades moisture in, but it also prevents moisture from getting in – so if you condition with mineral oil on the daily, you’ll end up with a dry leather that is impossible to get products to permeate in. The other drawback to mineral oil and petroleum products as a whole is that they disperse and deteriorate differently in the leather than fat/lipid based oils – mineral oil doesn’t quite oxidize the way other oils do, and can’t leave the leather as efficiently… which will cause brittleness over time in the collagen fibers.
Now, the soaking Bridle Goods In Leather debate…
That depends on what your end goal is and the type of bridle you have. If you like soft, flexible leather and you will always keep up on cleaning the leather, go for it – but use scant amounts (1-2tbsp) and use a high quality olive oil. If you detest soft, ‘floppy’ leather, don’t do it. The payoff of the soaking-in-a-back trick is that the oil completely permeates all the leather fibers; the drawback is that if you are impatient, pull it out and use it right away, you’ll be inviting dirt permanently inside the leather and you’ll be stretching the collagen fibers prematurely – which will result in a super floppy, very stretched out bridle/leather good.
Leather is pretty durable. The soak method won’t rot most stitching because most stitching is neoprene, but it will push out glue if the bridle is binded. I’ve never ruined leather from doing the soak method, but I’ve only done it on Stubbens, Passiers, and “rescued” bridles that were Almost Beyond The Brink. I will say that it made my Passier go from unimpressive to Passable – however, you should not use the oil-soak method if you have a bridle that has been chromium tanned (as you will make a very Limp bridle) or a bridle that has glue binding the stitching of the leather – ergo, avoid this method if you have Vespucci, KL Select, Red Barn, Warendorf, etc.
Do use this method if you have a stiff bridle you want to become soft and floppy - Otto Schumaker, Stubben, Courbette, Passier, and old/tired bridles will all respond positively to this treatment.
The most important thing to doing the bag-method is the follow-up care: you MUST hang the bridle somewhere semi-warm (in a window with sunlight, etc) and wipe the bridle down as it “sweats” out the oil. I will leave the bridle hanging on my windowsill, wrapped in rags – will take it out and wipe it down AM/PM, and leave hanging for several days. This is the part that ruins bridles - if you do not take out any excess or sweat, it will build up inside the bridle and cause more harm than good.
Saddliers say that you must use the brand/product that their saddles are; for saddles, I think this is important – but for bridles, it’s hogwash. Bridles are not made from the same part or cut of the cow/buffalo/pig as saddles, and are much more durable in terms of abuse.
Personally, I like Dr. Bronner’s castille soap & Belharra products the most for bridles – it’s very versatile, works on all types of leather, and conditions well. I use the Belharra conditioning soap - I don’t condition my bridles much at all with the Belharra, the conditioning soap does a great job. I also like Stubben’s Hammanol, though it is rendered fat and smells of someone’s backyard barbeque brisket to me. Tad Coffin has an interesting balm that restores luster/patina in bridle-work without waxiness, which I can appreciate – and of course, Higher Standards conditioner leaves a soft finish that is pleasing to both the eye and nose. I think HS is better preserved for saddle goods over bridle leather, as I think a bridle needs a hard, semi-dry finish with no residue to prevent dust/dirt accumulation.
Surprisingly, I have also used URAD on bridles as well - it’s GREAT for wiping down a bridle that is about to see rain - rainy XC run? No problem; wipe down with URAD for a waterproof bridle. You’ll have to follow with castille soap to break down the URAD after your wet ride/hunt, but it’s a good measure for protecting the leather from water-related blemishes.
I do not use Passier Leaderbalsam on my bridles; I find it’s too waxy and leaves too much residue. Great for girths, however.
Thank you!!
And I only paid $99. It’s a beautiful bridle!
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