Bringing Life Back to an Older Bridle

[Equestrian24]

I have an older Miller’s Collegiate bridle that was given to me and had been sitting in a barn unused for over a decade. It has cleaned up surprisingly well with Fiebing’s saddle soap and Belvoir Lederbalsam, but the end of the noseband strap is still pretty dry and stiff, and I can tell the rest of leather could probably stand a little extra hydration, though it’s pliable as is.

I’ve always had it pounded into my head that Neatsfoot Oil is bad for English tack, especially the stitching, but now I have heard it’s fine. Will it be safe to use? I would also like to refrain from darkening the leather too much, as it’s a beautiful dark oakbark, but realize that sometimes darkening is a part of the process, but the less darkening the better. Should I just keep applying Lederbalsam? I’ve applied two coats since I’ve had it.

Any other tips would be great, thanks!

[friedmas]

I’ve always soaked super stiff leather in mink oil and leather conditioner. I leave both products on the leather in a plastic bag in a slightly warm environment and it usually does the trick.

[Standard_Bread]

@Equestrian24

I’ve always had it pounded into my head that Neatsfoot Oil is bad for English tack, especially the stitching, but now I have heard it’s fine. Will it be safe to use?

The concern with stitching is that cotton or other thread made from natural fibers will more easily absorb water and/or conditioner, and take longer to dry, which can create a breeding ground for bacteria that like to feed on the plant fibers. If you know that the stitching is synthetic, you shouldn’t have much to worry about with regards to stitch rot. If you don’t know for certain, work carefully around the stitching. You can sterilize it with alcohol if you’re very concerned, but honest to goodness rot generally means you’re going to have to rip the stitching out and start over.

[Foxglove]

Just my opinion here —but consider you are putting your safety and your horse’s safety on this old bridle. I love old equipment --but only if it is properly maintained —my old saddle that I use for hunting first flight (up hill, down hill, over fences, fast turns, and hard stops) yearly has new stirrup leathers and new billets every 5 years or so --and a new girth. I replace reins and make sure bridles and everything else is solid where leather meets metal. I have seen bridles break --but the only broken bridle I’ve had is when a woman who borrowed my horse allowed him to eat grass with his bridle on --broke a rein when he stepped on it –

If the leather is as dry as you say, it may look fine, but my have dry-rot and will pull apart under stress.

[4LeafCloverFarm]

I’ve used Pompeii Olive Oil for more than 45 years. I’ve yet to have any stitching give out.

[Jackie_Cochran]

I use lard, three coats of lard over a day or two, then hopefully the horse wears it. Then it is more lard. When the leather feels supple stop larding the leather until it the leather feels dryer.

AVOID letting the lard touch rubber, rubbery substances, or chrome plated metal/

I have brought back old dried up bridles, made of decent leather, well enough so my riding teacher can use them on her lesson horses.

[WildGooseChase]

Another vote for Mink oil. It works, it’s still pretty cheap and won’t rot out stitching. I’ve used it for 20 years, and my dad has used it for 40+ on everything from boots, tack, baseball gloves etc, all of which we still have and use to this day.

[Scribbler]

I doubt any bridle still has cotton stitching.

I’ve brought back old tack, by starting with the milder conditioners and then working up to oils if needed on the theory that dark but supple and functional is an ok trade off.

As far as the safety of old leather, I’ve never had any leather I’ve put back into use snap unexpectedly. I’ve had some small items come out of storage clearly too worn to use (stirrup leathers and reins) but almost all of my 40 year old strap goods have cleaned up just fine. They had about 10 years use originally, were well cared for, and put away clean in a basement.
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[BAC]

If you don’t want to darken the leather, use Leather Therapy Restorer & Conditioner. It won’t change the color and should also help condition the bridle.

[Mistysmom]

Use some Passier Lederbalsam and let it sit overnight or longer if required. It does an amazing job softening up leather

[findeight]

You might want to really CLEAN the leather, with mild soap (blue Dawn) and warm water, canadd a little ammonia, scrubbing out stitch holes with a soft toothbrush. Air dry away from a heat source then apply multiple light coats of warm oil to warm leather allowing it to completely dry, manipulate the leather as it absorbs the oils.

Really doesn’t matter what oil you use but Ive got 20+ year old tack in great condition using olive oil and IME, the lighter oils absorb better and don’t leave a residue. It’s the residue many products, especially those containing glycerin, like saddle soap ( go figure), allow to build up and block the leather from absorbing any oils. Clean it first. Get rid if that stuff.

[westie55]

@findeight

You might want to really CLEAN the leather, with mild soap (blue Dawn) and warm water, canadd a little ammonia, scrubbing out stitch holes with a soft toothbrush. Air dry away from a heat source then apply multiple light coats of warm oil to warm leather allowing it to completely dry, manipulate the leather as it absorbs the oils.

Really doesn’t matter what oil you use but Ive got 20+ year old tack in great condition using olive oil and IME, the lighter oils absorb better and don’t leave a residue. It’s the residue many products, especially those containing glycerin, like saddle soap ( go figure), allow to build up and block the leather from absorbing any oils. Clean it first. Get rid if that stuff.

This. Make sure it’s clean, then soak it in a bag with olive oil. I have had great success using this method.