Building Stalls Update post 39

[lenapesadie]

I have to replace my corral panel stalls with “traditional” stalls. I’ll be building them myself as opposed to ordering kits. I need inspiration and some instructions. Stalls are going in under a metal building that’s on a dirt pad with crushed limestone topping. Help me launch this project. Looking for simple, safe and sturdy designs.

Tips tricks links?

ETA: I am ok with and planning on setting posts in the ground / pad for corners and such.

ETA 2: There are no interior posts at present in the barn. I will need to fully build all 4 walls of the stalls

[LCDR]

Are you willing to dig to set wood posts as wall supports?

[lenapesadie]

Yup!

[FitToBeTied]

What is holding up the metal roof. Morton built our building and then we built the stalls. We just used 2x6 pine boards with u-channel metal to hold the boards in place. It’s been 18 years and everything looks great.

[lenapesadie]

Metal framing. It’s “clear span” style construction. There are no interior posts at present. Just side walls.

[avjudge]

@moonlitoaksranch built stalls into an existing building about a year ago - maybe they will chime in with advice!

Here’s the initial thread, going through beginning of construction: Ideas for three sided shelter conversion?

[clanter]

@FitToBeTied

with u-channel

we had a local metal fab shop whose primary work was making metal duct work for our U Channels, I believe we used 9 ga steel I really do not remember as this was in 1992. They used their metal brake to bend the flat steel plate to the dimension we wanted

But we got 8 foot U Channels made for $5 each (those were the days)

Corner posts we used 4by6

[Simkie]

I spent some time recently googling around at stall parts and was really pretty impressed with these:

https://www.bendarc.com/OrderArcstall.htm

Cashman’s sells them now:

Aluminum Horse Stalls - Fronts, Backs, Sides and Dividers - Cashmans

Because the parts break down pretty far, shipping is VERY reasonable.

[LCDR]

Here is a tip I picked up helping a friend build his barn 40 years ago. Think through each step from start to finish, then think backwards before you pick up a hammer. Most horse stalls are said to be 12’x12’, but that often is not the actual size, given things like framing timber widths and board thicknesses.

In his case he actually started the barn with rubber stall mats in mind, which came in a true 4’x6’ size, so a true 12’x12’ stall would hold six stall mats edge to edge. So we set the posts to have each finished stall’s inside dimension end up exactly 12’x12’. At the end, the stall mats dropped in perfectly, with no time and labor intensive trimming needed.

[Texarkana]

If you want them to be sort of moveable, you could pattern a shedrow on skids design. Like the pre-fab barns they sell.

[Bluey]

First, consider making them portable, so you can reconfigure, move around here and there, change things as your needs may change, sell if you don’t need them any more.

Tax-wise, portable stalls may be considered furniture, if built into the structure, they will increase the valuation of said structure, you will need to pay more taxes on it.

We built our own, but any local welding shop can make you some if you want to go that route.

[lenapesadie]

I have access to aluminum fabrication. Mostly they work in square tubing. Wonder if that could be used instead of traditional grills?

ETA: For 4x6 posts, at the corner of each stall or corner of each “block” of stalls? What I mean is, if I put two stalls next to one another, should I set 4x6 between the stalls?

[lenapesadie]

I might could justify pre fab fronts, if I could get custom sizes. I need a 12x14 or 12x16. Probably the latter. If I dig, I could likely get those built locally. But I’m trying to stay on a budget. And I’m in a hurry

[lenapesadie]

Good tip.

I’ll measure the mats. In addition to avoiding mat cutting, it’s important to me to have plenty of room on the inside of the stalls.

[lenapesadie]

I could just buy a shed row and park it under the barn now

My back says that’s a great plan

[clanter]

@lenapesadie

should I set 4x6 between the stalls?

we used the 4by6 as the corner between stalls, the channel for the divisional wall was centered on six inch side

Aluminum, I see no problem as we used 6061-T6 for crash resistant anti terrorist gates, it has the raw yield strength of nearly that of A36 carbon steel .

the vertical board (5/4 deck board with rounded edges) on the center line of the wall is to stabilize the 2by8 that make the wall, these are just standard 4s4 (has been surfaced on all four sides) rather shiplap which would have been self locking

[Weezer]

If you build them in such a way that there is a gap between the stall wall and the building wall, it will be the perfect hiding place for mice, squirrels, etc. (Speaking from experience ).

[Bluey]

We made our stalls 16’ x 12’, 8’ tall, out of 2" square metal, sheet metal and thick, horse proof 1/4, 2" x 2" wire mesh:

[Simkie]

You can use pre fab pieces however you like, really. Those aren’t complete stall fronts, just grills and doors that you can slot into whatever build you want.

In my barn now, I have 4’ doors and 6’ grills and the remainder of the 12’ stall front is wood.

[lenapesadie]

I’ve enjoyed portability and flexibility up to now. These two stalls will be in a fixed location. I have a specific paddock that I’ve already footed for runs off these stalls. I am still leaving myself a lot of room for flexibility because, horses!