Bumper Pull Adjustment Ideas

My horse does not love to trailer, we think it might have to do with the center divider that is wood (covered with padding) and could be swinging some when in route, I’m trying to to think of a way to either stabilize it more or weigh it more so it moves less. We only usually trailer one horse. Also we have butt chains vs butt bars wondering if it’s hard to change those? Open to any ideas that you think might help.

Also, he seems fine when leaving a show the issue is leaving the farm.
Thanks

Your divider should be firmly anchored in place when the trailer is moving. Have never seen one that is not secured. You need to find a trailer loading coach to help you make your trailer safe and secure, and teach you about loading your horse effectively. There are often “trailer loading clinics” available from such people. As you have found out… there is a lot to learn.

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It is secure but since the other side is otern empty and we have just the chain but bars attached it seems like it could move some

To have an opinion (I am never short of those) I’d like to know the make of the trailer, or a general statement as to what it is: Livestock, two horse straight load, three horses slant load --ideally the manufacturer or photos of the interior to see what structure one could attach a center panel to.

As to butt chains v butt bars --my most recent trailer (I’ve had 8 if I count those I had only briefly to repair and resell) my most recent trailer: 2020 Merhow 2H straight load, has heavily padded butt straps instead of butt bars or butt chains. At first I was dubious but was assured they would replace if I wanted them replaced with butt bars. (I only live 7 miles from Merhow’s factory). Honestly, I would not go back to butt bars or butt chains. The padded straps fold up to let horse out --no clanking on the pasterns, and unlike chains, they don’t destroy the tail. Tried to find a pix but no luck . . .guess I could take one when I go out to feed today --if you are interested.

Another thought is --if it is doable --I have my trailer on my property and unlimited time to spend with my horses (retired) --is hook your trailer and leave it hooked (yeah, I know, pain in the butt but I don’t go places much) --then work your horse as usual. When you have finished. Load him. Let him stand (you can stand with him inside the trailer the first few times). After a couple of minutes, or 5 or so, but when he’s still calm, unload him. Ride some more. Load him. Ride some more. Load him. Do this for a few days (5 if you can) and increase the amount of time he is in the trailer between work secessions --it can be in hand, or lunging. Work toward leaving him the the trailer while you do something else. He can have hay.

The point is --trailer=rest. My horses come to view the trailer as a joyful place to rest. All of mine (4) are self loaders and quiet riders. Bob does paw, but he wears pawing bracelets to discourage that. I think he’s doing it less. I have also heavily padded my divider support in the front to prevent him from hitting it when he does paw.

Of course the trailer=rest is just about impossible if you don’t have access to the trailer/truck and the time to do this. On the other hand, even spending 5 consecutive days for an hour or so, might cure your horse.

What’s the issue?
FWIW:
My mini always calls when I trailer him off my farm.
Just once & then he rides like a champ.
Same when I load him to come back from wherever.

Re:
Your center divider, like @Foxglove , I’d like to see a photo before offering any advice.
Can the divider be removed?
That might be the easiest/best solution.
When I hauled my 17’3 WB in my 2h Slant, I’d tie the divider back so he had the largest possible space.
If I could have, I’d have taken the divider out.

Take up any slack in the butt chain on the empty space side. The simplest for me would be a short bungee cord almost fully extended and hooked between the chain links you can get to.

If you haven’t already, also get into the empty trailer and have someone tow you around in a safe area and then you’ll know what moves, clanks, or squeaks and might be a nuisance to a horse so you can tighten things up inside.