I’m looking for a new lease horse and considering a mare at my barn. She’s perfect on paper—sweet on the ground, always jumps, and could take me from 2’3 to 3’ (AMAZING jump I’ve never had so much fun jumping a horse). But she’s pretty lazy on the flat, which isn’t my preference, especially since most of my rides will be hacking on the flat. I’m worried I might get bored with a kick ride. On top of that, her owner now wants to sell her, so we’re debating buying her since it’s our only option. Granted, my current horse is sensitive, so it might be good for me to learn to ride a lazier one. I just wish I was more decisive since this is such an expensive decision. Am I being too picky?
I think it takes a certain type of rider to ride a “Lazy” horse. I prefer to think of them as dull, and needing a rider who is willing/able to motivate them to be sharper and won’t fall into the trap of nagging them.
If you think of it from an evolutionary point of view, a lazy prey animal makes no sense, but if you think of “cold blooded” horses that evolved to escape pack hunting, their instinct is to stay just ahead of the pack but to put in minimal effort beyond that (vs hot bloods that evolved to evade from a single, fast predator, so their instinct is to bolt first, think later). So for a “cold blooded” type horse, you need to learn to use strong aids and make a big impression, and then be very quiet…and when the slow down, make a big impression again. I like this type of horse - I find them easier, because it’s like 5 seconds of “loud” riding, and then just doing pretty much nothing until you have to reset with another 5 second reminder. but it definitely isn’t for everyone!
“Lazy” generally means not on the aids. The mare doesn’t like flat work, and is seeing how little she can get away with. To sharpen her up, you’ll need to develop a relationship where she knows that you expect 100% from her. Start with “forward”.
None of this needs to be harsh, and you can do it from the walk. But when you put your leg on, there should be a response. Consider riding with a dressage whip for awhile - the cue doesn’t need to be strong, but momentarily intense.
Bob was described by a previous owner as “fat, lazy, and slow.” She tried to barrel race him at 5 years old after he’d been used as a stud for four years and then had been gelded and given 90 days saddle training.
Bob bounced around to two more owners (60 days at a horse flippers for a great video and on-line marketing, bought by my friend and used as a husband horse trail riding for 7 months).
Then he became mine when she could no longer deal with his herd aggression and picking on her old gelding.
“Fat, lazy, and slow?” Not what I found --I found well trained, quiet response to cues (he is never going to bolt) and terrific ground manners. And working cows? Smart and quick.
Each to their own, but give me “fat, lazy, and slow” any day over reactive!
I leased a dull horse (who would jump the absolute moon wow) but our flat rides were not fun. I rode with a dressage whip and she just didnt care. I have a hotter but not-too-hot ride now and Im much happier. I just have a “type” I prefer and preferences are ok!
So, if you like a more forward ride, and like any sane person your rides are mostly flat, I wouldnt go for it personally. But that’s just me.
I ask this with kindness and curiosity.
Is she lazy, or do you not know how to ride her yet?
If her current person can get her moving up off the leg, then maybe this is something you’ll learn as part of your journey with her.
If YOU can get her up off the leg towards the jumps, this also sounds like it might be more of an issue of rider technique that you could learn.
If you’re always kicking and you’re exhausted and not having fun, it may not be the lesson you want to learn yet.
I prefer a typical TB ride- get up in a half seat and let them take you. My wonderful horse of a lifetime is not that. We call him “energy efficient”- he prefers to put in only as much contribution as is called for on the flat, as he doesn’t particularly enjoy flatwork. Over fences, when he’s intrigued by the idea of solving a puzzle, he’s much more self-motivated. I had to learn how to engage his body and mind on the flat. It made me a better rider, for sure. So don’t rule out that some of this could be part of your development as a rider. But at the end of the day, if you doubt that you’ll enjoy the experience of riding your horse for the first 3-6 months while you learn to ride said horse, that’s a sign that this is not YOUR horse.
My current horse is similar in that jumping he is a complete star and game for the fences, but was less than participatory on the flat when I first got hime. But I found over time with proper and interesting flatwork he has really gamed up for it. You just have to work harder to make it interesting and rewarding for them. It’s only boring if you make it boring.
Cold/lazy horses are great too cause you can take “lazy” days and learn really effective aids without nagging (translates to hot horses to get impulsion wihtout going faster, so would improve your overall riding).
Depending on your position you could buy and try it and then if it doesn’t work lease out or resell. But if you’re not in the position to take on the risk then just pass, there are so many horses out there and you can easily find one that already suits your type.
There are far worse things than lazy.
It’s not my preference either, but if I had the choice between a lazy horse and a spinner, stopper, rearer, etc. I’d take lazy any day.
I also like one of the above posters comment about maybe just not knowing how to ride this particular horse yet. A fairly “green” rider friend (does 2’3” hunters on a push button) has gotten on my horse (hot, 1.10m jumper) and it was very interesting to watch! Mare basically went around like a lesson pony. They trotted over cross rails and went around with 0 contact. It was a great moment for all three of us.
Now I see dull to the leg and lazy as two completely different things. My hot mare is dull to the leg. I had a lazy gelding who moved off my leg and responded well to the aids. I guess we all have our own interpretations.
At the end of the day, I think if this is the “worst” part about this horse, it sounds like a pretty darn good match. Something that can take you from 2’3” to 3’ is not to be taken lightly! Keep us posted
If she is amazing to jump, and you can afford her, don’t let her get away. A horse that is peppier on the flat is likely to be peppier over fences as well.
Absolutely!
She has been primarily ridden by a half-leaser and my trainer, who is an incredible rider that knows her well and, I imagine, can make her go easier than I can. My trainer has also said she originally thought I would like her because she’s more “forward” than a gelding I had previously tried. They felt pretty similar on the flat to me, but my trainer has ridden both horses way more than I have, and, at this point, I’m used to something sensitive.
I think I could learn a lot from her, and she can do all the things I want to do. Of course, I don’t want to pass that up, but I also never want to dread going to hack! I will talk to my trainer about how she thinks 'lazy/forwardness" will improve as I progress. Thank you for the feedback!
To start this technique takes TIME.
Since my riding teacher often puts me on horses that are not ready to “go” I have dealt with horses who are lazy. Often I have to reschool the horse. These are horses who have given up on any forward impulse, always expect inferior riding from their student riders, and often have picked up “bad habits” in an attempt at self defense against the rider.
The only thing that really works is frequent PRAISE. The praise is frequent because I reward every hint of the horse obeying me. If I ask for more impulse and I feel the tiniest increase in the push from the horse’s hind legs I praise.
Another thing is that I give the horses time to process the aid, when they obey me even the tiniest bit and then I count to 10 before praising the horse. This gives the horse’s brain TIME to process what has just happened, the aid, the response, and the rider ceasing the aid immediately when the horse responds, even if the improvement is microscopic. When I have finished counting to 10 after even the tiniest response I then praise the horse effusively for figuring out what the aid meant and responding.
This training technique cut down the time it took to teach these horses what I meant down to a third of what I had to do when I used the technique of immediate praise. Yes, the releasing of the aid as a reward is immediate, but the praise works better for me if I count to 10 before active vocal praise or petting/scratching the horse.
It took a lot of time but I transformed an ill-trained burnt out school horse in his 20s who balked constantly or started backing up uncontrollably into a pretty responsive horse who obeyed me cheerfully instead of always glowering at the state of our horse/rider relationship.
Of course I did the initial work on loose/sagging reins to make sure that I did not bump the horse’s mouth with the bit when the horse started to respond to my driving aid.
I did not go to constant contact while using my driving aids until the horse showed that he trusted my hands in contact, cheerfully reaching for contact with no signs of resistance to the bit.
It took me a LONG time to get this result on this horse. Usually the lesson horses I ride become more responsive and reliable with a lot less work from me, a matter of weeks at one 30 minute lesson a week instead of the many, many months it took with this balker.
This is just another technique to use when nothing else seems to work. It can take a LOT OF TIME to get the results I desire, but I do eventually tend to get these been there done that resistant lesson horses showing proper impulse. Go slow and be sure not to punish the horse’s first attempts to give you the impulsion you desire.
If you are buying her as a 3’ move up horse? She gives you confidence? She is fun to jump?
And trainer says she is forward when she rides?
Grab her. You can refine flatwork and response to the aids, you cannot create a fun, confidence building ride over fences.
And “lazy”, even kick ride on the flat is often created by riders who consider correct flatwork drudgery and do not do enough of it creating a horse who is also bored and disinterested. You do it right and build the correct muscle and balance and it is not boring plus most horses will sharpen up to the aids considerably.
Often the best horses just drop into your lap. Trick is to recognize it when you are gifted with the chance to grab one.
If the horse is safe and fun, and a good teacher to get you moved up over fences, go for it.
Mine is kind of this way–if you let her, she will plonk around on the flat at western pleasure speed. Perks right up and goes around like a perfect metronome over fences. You can get her to perk up on the flat, but you have to mean it–five minutes of sending forward through a bunch of transitions is usually all it takes. As others have said, it may just be a matter of figuring out how to ride this horse, and what it needs to get forward and responsive.
She may be as much of an education for you on the flat as over fences, as you learn how you need to ride to get her going properly on the flat, since it sounds like she can and does with your trainer.
When trainers are looking for good amateur horses, they’ll pick lazy over hot anytime. In other words, unless this is your forever horse, it will be much easier to move this one along when the time comes.
Last year I bought a packer over fences who was lazy, dead to the leg, and uninterested in participating on the flat. Eleven months later, she is a packer over fences who does not want to be a pure dressage horse, but is sharp off the aids, mentally engaged, and a pleasure to flat. I’m so glad I listened to my trainer and bought her, even though she was not really my type of ride.
While we’ve had our growing pains and our challenges–and I’m not going to lie, it took a LOT of work from both me and my trainer to get her flatwork to where it is now–she is the sort of horse that lets me believe that we’re coming home safely every time we jump. We moved up over the summer and I was absolutely losing it with nerves at the in-gate, but as soon as we cantered our courtesy circle, her ears pricked, I felt her puff up three inches, and it was like she told me “Let’s go, mom, I got this!” To me, that is a priceless feeling.
My “lazy” horse was so lazy that if I made it clear from the very start of the ride that I was going to insist he give me the forward I asked for (not 50% or 75% or 90%, but 100%) he would just give it the first time I asked, because half assing was just extra work when he was going to have to do it properly.
But if I accepted 75% for the first few minutes, he would keep trying 75% to see if it was enough.
I really enjoyed riding him. He was a really nice horse.
Lazy? Maybe bored to death
We had one who had been used as show horse nationally. She was very good at this racking up awards and ribbons … she just became bored with the repeated sameness of doing the same thing time and again
So we pulled her from that life changing disciplines which she took to with new life.
Afterwards we did use her in her old life style which she did once again with a new heart
My amateur owner hunter is “lazy.” He was so dull to aids when I got him it was crazy to me. Now I can ride him on the flat w just a bat and no spurs. I’ve worked on transitions and lateral work to improve his lightness to the aids as well as his top line health. He used to break if I backed my leg off even a little bit at home. He’s still errs on the side of very quiet but I have him carrying me much more. It’s made flatting him at home much more enjoyable. I spend a lot of time not in the ring to motivate him as well. It was just a little bit of a project. I think projects keep me from feeling bored. And the results of all my consistent work are very rewarding.
You’ve gotten good advice here - I bought my perfect horse last year who is SO unmotivated on the flat but the perfect ride to the jumps. The sharpness on the flat is much easier to fix than trying to make a match on the ride to the jumps, so don’t let the flatwork challenge deter you. My trainer was able to sharpen the horse’s response to the aids, and then taught me to get better responsiveness now. I carry a dressage whip, and I don’t have to use it much at all, but he knows I’m willing to use it if he tunes me out. So, it took my toughening up and creating the expectation that I mean business and can’t be ignored. Now I can flat with no spurs, and just carry my dressage whip. I also agree that mixing it up helps. We have a big field to flat in also, and it definitely helps to not always do the same old thing in the arena. If the horse is your perfect ride to the jumps and will help you move up, go for it. You will learn to get a better response on the flat!
I want to point out how many of us have referenced engaging the horse’s mind and interest, not just their body.
A lazy horse can be a smart horse who is bored out of their mind doing the same thing every day! If all I did with my horse was trot loops around the outside of the ring and maybe ride two big circles, he would have no interest in participating. If you end up moving forward with this horse, talk with your trainer about making your flatwork sessions productive, not just mindless exercise. Transitions within and between the gaits, serpentines, changes of bend and direction, lateral work, etc. It’ll sharpen up your flatwork and your horse’s response to the aids and be more intellectually stimulating.
They’re all individuals. I learned my “energy efficient” horse really hated being in the ring and footing permitting we did most of our rides out in the field or hacking out. We only went in the ring for lessons. He was happier and more enthusiastic about flatting if he was in an open field, even if we were doing the same things we would have been doing in a sand ring. As a bonus, nobody got dependent on having the rail there (so I became very honest about use of the outside aids,) and he got quite fit from doing all his work on uneven terrain.