I am looking into buying a yearling. While I have access to some breeders and trainers to help with opinions on basic gaits/conformation, I was wondering what you have found out is important to check in the pre-purchase and that side of things? What things if you found them out at that stage you would know this is not the right purchase, and/or don’t overlook checking this or that during the pre-purchase. At the price point I am looking, I am not breaking the bank, so don’t plan x-rays, but I don’t want to miss something due to my inexperience buying yearlings that I should have checked. Thanks in advance.
My experience is that all baby horses have floatier trots and more suspension than they do as adults (until they are really trained up anyhow) so I would look at the parents for gaits.
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Above and beyond conformation? Attitude. Are they curious and attentive? Friendly and interested, but not pushy and nippy? And then of course the parentage.
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Thanks! Those are the type of things I was looking for that I definitely was not thinking of that way. Also, if there is anything in the pre-purchase that is important to check on yearlings versus older horses.
Young horses can get problems with bones and joints if they are fed too well and grow too fast. That’s definitely something you’d want to make sure wasn’t happening.
There’s a lot of information on it. Here’s a random link. It’s called phystitis.
https://foranequine.com/expert-advice/physitisepiphysitis-in-foals-what-is-it/
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Apart from what’s already been said (and I really agree with staying clear of youngsters that have been fed too well!), I also look for how reactive the yearling is - is he easy to get moving without going crazy or becoming fearful? I prefer a reactive, intelligent youngster who is quick to react, but doesn’t loose his cool in the process and definitely isn’t too lazy or unmotivated to run/play/explore unknown stuff etc.
Yearling is a tough age - they tend to be really growthy - so uphill can become downhill in a manner of moments. As already pointed out - they will probably have big floaty trots, which may change.
Xrays are “iffy” for yearlings - because they are growthy, this is where xray results aren’t always dependable. I use to breed, and sold 2 yearlings dirt cheap because of OCD type lesions - that totally disappeared within a year or two. I also bought a yearling that had beautiful xrays as a yearling, and had pretty significant lesions in his hocks as a 3 year old - because of growth spurts, you kind of can’t rely on xrays at this point.
Things I do look for - how do they move? Even if in a butt-high growth phase, do they lift in front when they trot and canter? Basic structure - angles will change some, neck will fill out, but how is the basic structure of the horse? Are legs straight, feet symmetrical, decent length of hip, etc?
I want a yearling to be engaged with people - interested, but NOT too comfortable, not too pushy - those pushy yearlings turn into nightmares when they are big. A yearling should lead, pick up feet, deal with basic clipping, bathing, grooming, been loaded in a trailer, etc. But I don’t (DON’T) want them lunging, tied, wearing bridles, etc.
Yearlings should live outside on big pastures - at least 12 hours daily out, out, out, in a herd setting, learning to be a horse, learning to use their bodies, learning social structure. If a yearling is in a small pen, or stalled, run, run, run away.
For PPE - I do not like to see yearlings flexed - it is way too hard on open, growing joints. Baseline xrays are fine, just realize they are not super reliable. Work them in a round pen to get heart rate up. Check eyes. Realize with this age group, you are taking a risk.
Look at parents - even better, look at full siblings (video, pictures, show results) if they are available. Look at how the dam interacts with people and other horses - remember, the yearling was raised by its dam, not its sire. Also realize - a pushy, aggressive dam MAY result in a timid, submissive offspring OR a pushy aggressive offspring.
DIET is important - a balanced diet with sufficient protein - not too rich, and definitely needs to be properly balanced (calcium phosphorous at about 2:1). A yearling should be LEAN, not fat!
It is a hard age to buy - you can get a screaming deal, or a screaming disappointment…
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Something I found interesting was how different a well bred foal looks from one that isn’t! My coach had a couple of Iberian foals a few years back and even at 3 weeks or 3 months you could see all the good angles in the neck and hips.
My FB feed tends to fill up with local rescues selling “wildie” weanlings off the range (I think they come from an Indian band) and every one gurgles over the cuteness factor but really those are some fugly little horses.
The Iberians went through an awkward phase at one to two years old, but you could still see the basic lines are there.
Looking at foal pictures might be useful if the horse is currently a really awkward yearling.
I’d take a good look at the feet and straightness (or lack of) of the legs. I bought a 2 year old that toes out and sent straight on and lateral pictures to my farrier during the PPE.
I’d talk to your vet or a vet who has done a lot of PPEs or looked at xrays of young horses in the breed type you are considering. See if they think it’s worth getting views of the stifles or hocks. I know a lot of OCD lesions can change as a horse grows, but I’m not sure certain stifle lesions would or severe hock lesions. My first young horse was bought at a discounted price as a yearling after he had an OCD chip taken out of his hock, and he had a second OCD surgery on both hocks a year later (but this was 15 years ago - OCD surgery protocols may have changed).
Talk to people who have ridden or handled horses with the same sire or family lines to see if there is anything that crops up regularly regarding health or disposition.
And honestly, I’d approach any purchase of a young horse not under saddle as a purchase for resale. What if the horse is not quite the type of horse you like to ride when he is under saddle in 2-3 years? What if the horse isn’t as forward as your like, or doesn’t love dressage but really wants to be a hunter? Is the horse a good resale candidate looking at overall build, movement, and demeanor?
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The last two I have purchased have been yearlings (from the same breeder)…one just turned 4, the other is now 2 (just bought him in December). They are both awesome boys! It’s a bit of a guessing game since some can look a bit awkward as they are growing, which can impact their movement a bit. I’ll admit, for me, it’s a gut reaction!! LOL When there is a yearling I think I might like, I look at a bunch of videos of others to have some comparisons. Then watch them free moving…I don’t need a WOW mover, but I do want to see the potential of 3 good gaits…and I like one who is balanced moving even when they are in a gawky stage. Then it’s all about personality. And I look at the bloodlines to know if it is lines that I like (the one yearling I bought because I was looking for a very specific mare line)…and a good breeder will be honest with you about the types their mare produces. You can’t always count on siblings…my 4 yo had several siblings all just making 16h and heavier type…he is 17.2 plus and all legs!
For the one I just bought…I went to see a 3mo at the breeder’s that I really liked the pedigree and photos of. When I got there, he was okay, but I wasn’t as drawn to him. She brought out some of the yearlings and one (who I had seen some weanling video and was meh about) just caught my attention and I just couldn’t stop looking him over. He hadn’t been handled much, but he kept wanting to be social and brave (and just a bit of cheekiness which I like)…the others were not as social or as brave. So that sold me on him!
For both, I’ve done a standard vet check with basic xrays. I don’t ask for flexions on youngsters, unless the vet feels there is an absolute need. But I do like to get basic xrays to make sure we aren’t starting with a major issue.
I generally buy a yearling or two every year. It is so hard to know how they will grow out so apart from basic confirmation (No major deviations in the legs, no scar tissue on legs, a well set neck, 3 clear paces) I really go on the pedigree. If you know what traits you are after, look for pedigree that throws the qualities you want. I find if you buy the proven lines, they generally don’t let you down.
Look at the past babies of sire and dam sire.
other than that, its all a crap shoot.
Thank you everyone for your thoughts. It has ended up being very helpful. The covid19 has put the breaks on for awhile except now I have more time to look at videos and do research.
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At that age toeing out a bit in front is normal, and will correct as the barrel widens and pushes the elbows out. A dead straight yearling may well end up toed in.
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I know this won’t add to the discussion, but my checklist to buy a yearling is…wait 5 years! 
I’m too old for the babies!
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I bought a yearling last summer - and was able to see all of them. Three were full German Riding Pony on both sides, one was GRP/Welsh, and one was warmblood/GRP/pony cross. The first 2 were “fine” - they seemed ok but didn’t make me want to take them home. I got to see the dams and one of the sires.
When I saw the next 2, both of whom I’d seen on video, I was expecting to like one more than the other but we walked into the field where there were 4 yearling colts. One stopped grazing and came over to see what we had to offer. The other wouldn’t let us halter him for half an hour of gently standing the field seeing if we could get the halter on. Guess which one I bought.
I did look at the 5th to make sure I was still keen on #3, and he will make a fantastic pony/hony for someone but his hormones were already more evident and I just didn’t click with him.
I did a basic vet check - make sure his testicles had descended, that he didn’t have any warm joints, or heart murmurs or breathing issues. His feet had correct angles. All the parts are in the right place, with good proportions. He’s really narrow in front. I hope he widens out. But that’s the only flaw that someone might think “nah” and I decided I can live with it.
In some ways it’s easier than buying a riding horse because you can’t do all those things you usually do - but there was some angst about “what if”. So you need to be ready to sell if he doesn’t grow up to be what you want, or adjust your ambitions.
