Cleaning Roughout Leather

I finally found a saddle for Javabeans, a second-hand Dakota (I believe it’s a barrel saddle, but my coach/BO says it’ll be more than suitable for the level of reining I’ll ever get to doing, as well as whatever other riding we do). It fits him beautifully and I am quite comfortable in it. The fenders have good swing and the seat puts me in just the right spot without adding too much bulk between me and his back.

Unfortunately, the saddle sat in a tack shed (pretty weatherproof, but still a non-insulated shed) for a few years before ending up with me, so it could use a good clean and possibly a condition.

The saddle is tan/light oil roughout with a black suede seat. I have never owned a piece of roughout tack before and am unsure how best to clean it. I worry that doing my usual “clean with Higher Standards, oil the stiffest parts, then condition with Higher Standards” route is wrong for the type of leather, since it’s the method I use on smooth leather, and all my other tack is significantly darker (havana brown, or black).

Am I safe to do my normal thing, or is there a better way to do it? For the really dirty parts, would it be safe to use the scrubby side of a dish sponge? Or should I stick with a normal soft sponge and just scrub more/use more water to soften the dried mud?

Thanks!

Dressage rider here, and no expert at this but: I have a dressage saddle with the rough out leather. Saddle fitter told me to do the following: brush for sand/dirt removal. Some gentle soap/water if necessary, then condition. I use effax liederbalsam, but any of those liederbalsams will work just fine. Light coat.

I was shocked at the conditioner part and I was very tentative the first time or two, but all is well. Just remember, less is more with that liedrbalsam!

I have known guys to take the entire saddle and dunk it in warm water with Ivory or Dawn detergent. Use a scrub brush to loosen the dirt and raise the nap. I am not sure with a padded suede seat though. The whole saddle can then be conditioned. I have seen the results, just not the process. Google saddle cleaning you may find a video.

I am going to say, with black suede to NOT get it wet at all. If leather is smoothed from use, a wire bristle brush will “rough up” the suede again if you don’t want the smooth seat. A newly roughened suede seat really will GRIP you, hold you in place rather firmly. Some folks like to move in the seat, others do not, so you have to choose how “grippy” you want the seat. If you rough it, the suede will smooth out again with use, should you decide you prefer less grip.

Black leather suede usually will bleed black forever, if wetted and ridden on. You also get any padding wet, which can take forever and a day to dry. Might warp a wooden tree if kept wet for a long time in drying.

I have always used Lexol Cleaner and Conditioner for my saddle, but over the MANY years of use, Lexol Conditoner will darken light oil to a brownish color, which I like. I know fashion calls for lighter color in Pleasure use, so you might want to check for other products to keep your saddle as light as possible.

I clean the saddle with warmish water, a large natural bristle brush (might be found in car wash stuff) and the Lexol Cleaner. Small amounts of the Cleaner, rubbed onto leather with wetted brush to get suds, then suds rinsed off. I do clean both sides of the fenders, but only the top on other hard leather parts of the saddle. Rinse and wipe the hard leather on saddle itself off quickly, so water doesn’t soak in much. I TRY not to get any rawhide parts wet with water or Conditioner, not good for them. Might take a day or two to let saddle totally dry, though you are NOT trying to soak saddle while cleaning it. Then I apply the Conditioner on all those hard leather places of the saddle. Again, I put Conditioner on both sides of the fenders, maybe a couple coats especially on the underside that gets sweaty, salty from a working horse. I really like my fenders soft and flexible, so I tend to use lots of Conditioner on the fenders, until they don’t soak up any more. I let the saddle sit 24 hours to dry, see if Conditoner has soaked in well. Might need more than one Conditioner coat to help dried leather get feeling good again. May take two days drying to get saddle back to the lighter, regular color again. But well conditioned, the saddle does take abuse, rain, sweat, dirt well. Stays nice feeling until you do another cleaning and conditioning in a couple months. If saddle gets real dusty, I blow dusty saddle off (vacuum, leaf blower) and wipe down with a damp rag. I don’t want dusty dirt working down into leather, stitching since dirt is pretty abrasive in wear on leather, so dirt needs removal from saddle fairly soon after landing. Arena use seems to get more dirt on saddle than Trail Rides.

I never use any kind of oil on my Western Saddle. Not Neatsfoot or Harness oils, they just keep oozing oil onto your clothing forever. Leather is NOT meant to be oiled, light or heavy, turns your leather limp as well as darkening it.

Glad you found a nice saddle. Do regularly check the wear on leather anchoring D-rings, your cinch straps, so you are not surprised with a break during hard work.

I replace cinch straps and the hardware on the rear cinch straps (the rivet on the billets were loose) as soon as I got it, partly due to wear and partly because the previous owner had it set up with two off billets for the front cinch which I could not get the cinch on my cob tight enough with. So that got swapped as soon as possible, haha.

Thanks for the tips! I can’t wait to get it nice and clean again! :smiley:

I used an air compressor on light colored, tooled saddles because anything else darkens them. It does a great job. Condition the back side as needed.