Cost to build your own stalls?

So, we are having a barn built, (barn/garage/shop combo, more specifically). We got a price and then asked for some itemization. I wanted to see if it was worth exploring building our own stalls.
3 10x10 stalls with screenings - $8000.00

From the website of the company they use, it looks like its about $450/stall for the raw components. So add the labor/tongue and groove, etc.

Looking to see what others have done. We would like them to look nice and last.

Further question, what do you like the best? So many options! Full mesh doors? I like the look but worried that they look gross if the stalls aren’t perfectly clean all the time. yoke grill? I like the horses being able to hang their heads out. I definitely don’t want solid walls between, would like grills between for ventilation, light, and interaction

I have seen barns older established trainers have built in the past few years.

Those trainers had previous barns built with lots of interaction between horses.
Interesting, newer barns have more privacy between horses, are not as open.
They also are made so horses can’t “reach and touch” another, the source of bites, some times serious injuries from it.

Talking to them, they said that they too thought the more open, the happier horses.
Well over years, they learned that horses will tend to fuss more when they have neighbors right there and can reach them in any way even thru narrow set bars.

I was thinking, makes sense, barrier aggression as fun and games and can make for grumpy horses that end up just pinning their ears at the world from that kind of life.
Some horses like others, some don’t, some like others at times and at times not, or not in their space, looking at them all day long.

Now some have stalls with “windows” in that division wall, solid front and back, opening in the middle and that opening mesh horses can “talk” thru with a neighbor, but can’t take a bite out of them, if in play or seriously.

They told me that has cut down considerably on those injuries and those of horses kicking at each other because of being annoyed.

Now, the front mesh doors are good for air flow, although some horses will paw at doors, like at meal time, so be sure to have something that if they bang the door won’t hurt themselves on.

I don’t think there is a perfect barn or stall model.
There are trade-offs and it would be nice to have several options.
A few smaller and bigger stalls, some stalls solid between stalls, others with openings, or a way to open or close the space between them, etc.

Building a barn we learn all along and once using it, we realize we could do better, is how we learn.

As for price, it depends on what all you want to make your stalls from.
One good way to check prices is commercial portable stall companies, like Priefert or any one that sells the kind of stalls someone wants to build.

I got a quote for custom stalls, but after checking out various options I’m planning to order Priefert stall fronts and dividers plus the wood kits.

This site is good for figuring out all the parts and pieces:
https://www.nrsworld.com/priefert/priefert-10-premier-stall-panel-barwood-160781

Because my barn is an odd size and I need just over 12’ fronts, I’m actually planning to order two 10’ stall fronts and build some triangular storage lockers into the front inner corners.

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We built our stalls after gutting the interior of our 40’X36’ 1900 pole barn. There was no way to put up manufactured stall fronts, since the barn was so old and built by hand - nothing was even, or spaced the same.

We used rough hewn lumber from a local saw mill - oak for the kick walls (interior of the stalls) and I think poplar for the exterior front walls (or maybe cedar? Its been 17 years, I just don’t recall). I went with open tops on the stall fronts - so its just a 4’ 3"/4’6" kick wall. I only have 2 stalls that are next to one another, so I used 1.5" PVC pipe to make “bars” between the stalls. But we have a nearly 13’ center aisle, so that also played into the selection of open stall fronts.

I think there are two things to consider when building yourself - do you have the time and the ability to design/build it yourself. I’m quite mechanically inclined and have been building things since I was little. And at the time we bought our farm, had no job, so had plenty of time on my hands. Building out the interior of a barn is no small task, though I’d imaging if you are able to buy kits and mostly assemble in place, that would be less cumbersome that starting with an empty space and a bunch of boards like we did. :wink:

There is also a certain measure of satisfaction one gets from doing it yourself. But I also understand its not for everyone!

I agree with @Bluey stalls that share a common wall are better off being solid or nearly solid for safety reasons, unless the horses are truly good friends and live together 24/7. There are other ways to ensure light and ventilation.

As for the stall doors, a well built mesh doors works fine. Might not always be as sturdy as a regular door, but certainly can be safe. IME with a mesh door, you will end up with a small amount of bedding in the aisle. It will find its way through bottom of the door when the horse is walking around in his stall or higher up through the mesh if the horse kicks up some bedding rolling or getting up. Maybe a few handfuls of bedding in the aisle is no big deal. Maybe it is if you have OCD.

With yoke stall fronts the horses enjoy the opportunity to peer out into the aisle, but if the door is a slider, you will have to give up your blanket rack. That might be fine if you only have one or two horses and have storage elsewhere for blankets, boots etc. and/or the staff/time to move it to and fro. Another thing with yokes is if your aisle is narrow, the stalled horse will try to touch other horses as they pass through the aisle.

If you aren’t worried about drafts in the winter, you might want to consider a dutch door with a yoke or something similar in the back of the stall. The horses will be able to hang their heads without sacrificing a blanket bar or being worried about nosey neighbors as they walk down a narrow aisle.

If you are considering a DIY project, there are tons of companies that have stall kits. We used this company for one of our projects: https://www.noblepanels.com/ and were very satisfied. Great customer service and they do custom work so you aren’t relegated to 10’x10’ or 12’x12’, as you can order something to fit your space.

its been thirty years since we bought stalls but is $2,666.66 per stall a common cost theses days? I have actually forgotten what we paid but I am pretty sure it was around $800 each for a 12by12 stalls which was complete then the mats were another $240 so just over a thousand dollars. including water buckets and feeder

(If the three stalls are interconnecting there would be two stalls complete one each and and then a back and front panel for the middle stall which actually would push the cost per complete stall up, if there were to be four walls each )

Of course ours are utilitarian steel frame with TG bottoms with mesh uppers… no Gold Plating (but did house several champions) … we did use interlocking concrete pavers for the barn floor so most people just see those (they were factory rejects for color variation… we just dumped them all into a pile then mixed together to blend the colors)

If the budget was to be $8,000 I believe I would look around for a retired carpenter to hire offer a set amount for labor with a cash bonus or buy all the needed equipment and learn it myself

We’ve done both, in our first barn DH built our own using 2x6" wood rails screwed with bolts to posts, inexpensive, looked nice and lasted a long, long time (20+ yrs); in the second barn we got custom stalls done, expensive but looked awesome. Powder coat started failing after 3 years.

First barn the wood rails went all the way up with a small gap between for airflow, second barn we had grills between stalls. With the first barn we had a horse that was a meal time monster so it was better in that situation to have solid boards between the stalls. In he second barn everyone was buddies and my OTTB needs to be able to see everyone or he goes into a panic, so the grills worked perfectly.

I have a similar building as my barn- shop + barn in one big pole building. It was a semi-blank canvas with three spots perfectly arranged for stalls (12 x 36 section with gravel base, no cement like the rest of the space). Here’s what I did:

-Priced out stall components from different companies. We went with Priefert.
-Chose front slider doors with built in windows, 12 foot fronts with bars on top/solid below. The dividing panels are also solid bottom with bars on top.
-We actually used recycled lumber (2x6 Doug fir from the loft we had to dismantle) but did buy more kiln dried Doug to complete the project. We went vertical with the pieces as that’s how the stall kits were designed. It is not tongue and groove and looks great. It has held up to wild baby TBs, angry mares, cranky old gelding with a kicking issue-- you name it, no broken boards in 16 years.
-For the barn walls themselves, we used 3/4 marine grade plywood attached to the purlins as that’s what we had a plethora of from the loft, but the other option we used was again Doug fir, kiln dried 2x6s in the third stall. Still holding up very, very well.
-We then cut out and framed “back doors” directly opposite the aisle slider stall doors. Built Dutch doors that open out to the 12x48 overhang on that side of the barn. That area is the mud-free paddock space for each horse.

I like the Priefert components-very easy to install for DH and me, both of us not terribly construction savvy but handy. As I said, they are heavy duty and attractive even after all this time. Many boarding barns in my area have the fronts in their barns.

That said, if I had to do it again, I’d go solid between stalls or at least mostly solid (some components have bars only on the front 1/3 of the dividing wall). I have one horse who HATES his neighbor (hence the kicking). We’ve solved it by a lovely red-neck solution of very thin plywood zip tied to 50% of his wall so he can’t see his neighbor eating. It works, it’s safe and no one but me has to see it! My vet thought it was very clever though and told another client about it.

I was really interested in seeing the responses here since we’ve got an old barn that will need some remodelling to be ready for our horses (I really appreciate the link to the pre-fab stall walls, those look so nice).

One thing that jumped out to me, OP, was that you’re planning on building 10x10 stalls. The barn that came with our property was originally used for minis, so we’re not going to be able to go much more than 10x10, but if you’re building a barn from scratch I would really go higher, like at least 10x12. Everything I’ve read and everyone I’ve talked to says that bigger is better, and if you ever plan on selling (or even if you don’t plan on it) bigger stalls will be more desriable. I have two ponies and one average sized QH, but if I could make them all 10x12 or even 12x12 I would.

We built our own stalls. I looked briefly at what was available commercially, but decided against that. I agree with the above, make them as big as you have room for, roomy stalls are always better IMO. Making your own allows you to not be restricted to what is available commercially. AND it is way cheaper to make your own. I just have two stalls in one end of my arena, which ended up just under 12’ X 14’. They are “overbuilt”, would hold an elephant actually… because you never know when you might suddenly have to put an elephant in there. Each wall has an extra vertical post half way along, to support the wall planks from bending, should a horse hit it hard enough. The center wall between the two stalls is double, planks on each side of the verticals, with the center post half way along. Many years ago, we had a horse at a race training center who got cast in the night (we suppose), and in struggling to get up, spread the horizontal planks in the stall wall, and her leg went through, then the planks snapped back onto her hind leg. These were thick oak boards, and very old “seasoned” and NOT springy at all. In the morning, when we found her, she was standing, with her leg through the wall. There were two of us grooms there early, and my friend pulled the heavy oak boards apart, and I gingerly lifted the leg out from between the horizontal boards. Somehow, the leg was not broken, but badly damaged. It took a year for her to recover from this injury, and it left a horrendous scar. This incident nearly 45 years ago makes me very aware of the construction of stall walls, and the center post in the walls of our current stalls are the result of this. Plywood lining stalls is another option to make those stall walls solid. Covering all surfaces that can be chewed is another important goal. Our stalls have bars on the front wall. These were easy to make, and cheap to do. Drill holes at the appropriate distance (narrow enough that a foot won’t fit through, about 2" apart) in a 2 X 6 to lay on it’s side, horizontally at the top of the half wall, and another one on the top, then cut rebar to make the bars the length you need. Just stick the bars into the holes on the bottom, and fit the similar 2X6 on the top end, affixed to a top rail. Lets more air and light into the stalls. We went with wooden floors, rough cut fir 2 X 12s, that fit just perfectly between the walls, on treated 4X4 grid, backfilled with gravel. Cheaper for us than buying rubber mats, and stay put (don’t curl up on edges like rubber mats can do). Wooden floors are soft, warm, and good traction. They are “old school” but still work as well as they ever did.

They are “overbuilt”, would hold an elephant actually… because you never know when you might suddenly have to put an elephant in there.

mommy it followed me home, can we keep it

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Adding, if at all possible, when building, try to have portable stalls that, as we work there and see what may work better, or needs change, can be easily altered.

Never underestimate, especially with horse management, even if we design carefully, what we could not have foreseen until it was built and in use.
Being able to change things to suit better is a smart way to go over making do with the square pegs we are trying to fit in round holes once we are working out of there.

Just be careful with the design of yoke front stalls. I love the look, and it’s nice for horses to be able to look around, however some horses will try and climb through. Ask me how I know…:eek::lol:

Yes! That is what I had in mind! :lol:

I just got a couple of quotes to build out 3 stalls in my free span small barn. Tongue and grove with sliders. Good quality components. We did the floors. I think your guy is high unless you are going super high end on the components or the floors need a lot of dirt work. I’m in the NE so not a cheap area. I priced doing myself and there just wasn’t much savings once I factored in sourcing the components and tongue and groove. Good luck with your project. The economy around here is great and nobody is in any hurry.

a person can make their own tongue and groove using a dado saw blade set on a table saw…it is Not that difficult

shiplap is easier but not a locking joint

You will love those with the horizontal bars, who did you get them from?

The first ones we made for our current barn was that kind.
Didn’t work so well for us with playful competition horses that would take bites of each other playing bite-face.
We remodeled with welded wire mesh.
They still play, but that stopped the face injuries from that play.

We could feed our alfalfa flakes right thru the bars, made feeding quicker.

You will love those with the horizontal bars, who did you get them from?

The first ones we made for our current barn was that kind.
Didn’t work so well for us with playful young competition horses that would take bites of each other playing bite-face.
We remodeled with welded wire mesh.
They still play, but that stopped the face injuries from that play.

We could feed our alfalfa flakes right thru the bars, made feeding quicker.

Neubauer Manufacturing is making them now. Hope to pick them up in a week or two. They even come with the wood in it!

I think they are a good value too.

They make one similar to the pics you posted. I like them a lot but more $ than I want to spend :wink: