Hello
Anyone have any suggestions on covering an existing 70x200’ arena? Estimates on what I should be prepared on cost?
So many things depend on construction and material costs in your area.
Don’t know if this helps, but I built a steel 95 X 225 roof over my arena 15 years ago for $125,000. No walls, lights or electric. Steel costs went up so much after that, a friend had the same company quote her on a slightly smaller arena about 5 years ago, and they quoted her almost triple my cost.
My cost did not include having to redo the footing after the roof because of the truck traffic on the footing and having to change the crowning for drainage. (Before the roof, the whole thing drained to one long side due to the slope of my land, which meant when it rained after the roof, water that blew in still drained across the whole arena. Had to change to a center crown, so the water that blew in would go right back out instead of draining across.) That was another $10K.
Also did not include having to put in a sprinkler system since now no rain to naturally water the center of the arena!
You can get quotes for the material and suggestions on who to get bids for erection from Rhino buildings, one way to find out more what that would cost today.
That is who we ordered our building from, that we put up ourselves:
We had bids from several different manufacturers and builders, some local ones, that were double what that one was.
Get bids from different companies, be sure you compare apples to apples, then you can decide if that is what you want to do.
We did it twenty years ago. My numbers, today, would be irrelevant.
When considering this get lots of bids. There was more than a 100% cost difference between the high and low bidders when I did it.
Covers are not necessarily cheaper than full indoor structures. The cover must be made of heavier material and with very substantial footings because they are a “wing” and generate lift in high wind conditions. Most folks don’t think about this. I know I didn’t until I was doing by basic research and it was a “DUH!” moment for me when I realized it! 
If you want a simple analogy on materials take a shoe box with the lid on it and try and twist it. Now take the lid off and try and twist just that. Rather graphic, eh? 
Build to spec for your area. Don’t cheat on the specs, either.
One nice thing about covers: they go up FAST! Mine, 65’ x 200’, went up in under two days. Without walls, windows, and doors it’s fast work.
If you want lighting be careful. A professional will try and light it up like a factory doing high quality engraving work and do a real number on your wallet. Go to your local co-op and buy 8 yard lights. That’s what we used for our 200’ long structure. They provide ample light for night time riding, don’t care about temperature (and florescent’s do), and are easy to install.
This was one of the best things we did. We live in East TN where sun in the summer and rain in the winter is an issue; cold is not really a major problem. I’m glad we did!
G.
Consider if you go whole, enclosed barn that it may be taxed much higher than an open structure.
If the difference is not worth it and you go fully enclosed, you can have large openings in hot weather that will give you as much airflow as a simple cover will and give you protection when it rains and blows in there.
We compromised with one solid wall and three overhangs on the others, so we are still a mere covered structure, but more protected inside by the overhangs.
We also have an all purpose building, any horse items in there are fully portable, can be taken off and the covered arena be used for other, like farm machinery.
Being a multi-purpose building helps add to the value.
A local trainer built his indoor completely enclosed, but some of the walls themselves are built as very large sliding doors, so he can open practically all of it in the summers.
Be sure you have a clear idea of what you want and then get bids, all on the same specs.
I just went through something similar-- 60x100 roof over riding area. Steel posts and trusses will cost way more than wood. Wood everything (except siding) will be the most economical and a metal roof will be cheaper than shingles.
Since you don’t have a snow load to contend with, your footings won’t have to be gigantic unless your soil conditions can not support the pound per square ft. load of smaller footings. Soil is a big factor, and so is wind rating.
There is no real way (unfortunately) to tell what the cost will be for your project until you get input from an engineer. An engineer will be able to tell you what your footing size needs to be-- what type of truss design you will need, how many trusses and posts you will need, etc. etc. You could probably get away with a roof pitch that is less than the standard 4/12…which will help bring down the truss cost.
Also, once you go over 60 ft. clear span width, trusses jump up in price quite a bit. But bigger is better for an arena.
You of course could call one of the big ‘pole barn’ companies that specialize in putting up the type of structure you’re looking for-- in your area. They could give you a pretty good ball park figure.
I would not go with trusses or wood for the larger structures, if you can avoid it.
Manufactured trusses can become a nightmare to keep birds out of there.
With full framing without trusses birds won’t be so apt to nest there and the ones that may are easy to discourage.
Bird feathers and dung are hard on lungs.
Go with full, clear span all metal framing and metal sheeting, that will last forever and keep it’s value.
We had both and all the wood and/or wood framed structures are gone, the metal ones some getting close to 100 years and still in excellent shape and never needed any maintenance.
At the size these folks are looking at I’d avoid wood and go for steel. Over the long haul it will be a better idea.
The footers don’t just hold the structure up; they hold it down! Remember that this is a wing under some conditions and wings like to fly!
The real money is in width with clear span structures. When we did it the cost between a 45’ span and a 55’ span almost doubled. Between 55’ and 65’ feet it did double. Between 65’ and 75’ it more than doubled.
Get lots of bids from as many contractors as you can. I discarded the high and low bids automatically and worked to the middle. I ended up with the third lowest bidder based upon reputation (talking to satisfied customers); seeing multiple similar structures the contractor had put up; and the fact that the presentation was fully in compliance with all applicable building codes with no suggestions of “corner cutting.”
Good luck in the project.
G.
Yep. Mine needed several dozen concrete-truck loads of concrete for the footings, especially because they ran down the long sides instead of spanning across the arena (didn’t want to dig up the existing arena). Must have worked, though, because the roof stayed in place even after hours of Hurricane Katrina winds!
