De-Icer for Exterior Stall Latches?

I’m worried that with this incoming ice storm, my exterior dutch door latches will freeze, especially the bolt latches that attach the top half to bottom. Well, I’m worried about all the ice, but I’ve done what I can to to prep I think, and now all I can do is deal with the consequences.

What can I use to de-ice those latches? Is there some kind of spray? Will WD40 work? If we lose power, I won’t have electricity in the barn, but the house will have a generator, so I won’t be able to use a hair dryer out there. Well, maybe I could with a long extension cord. But is there a product I can by today?

The fastest-to-acquire solution would be hand warmer packs. They can get nicely toasty and should warm things enough to allow movement of the latch.

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Spray them with WD-40 before the weather gets bad. If they freeze after that or are already frozen, put rubbing alcohol on the frozen area, then dry off as much as possible and spray with WD-40.

I usually spend an afternoon before the weather turns bad doing this on all the latches, locks etc. around the farm and on our trailers. There is nothing more frustrating than frozen latches or locks, especially if it is an emergency.

There is a spray: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AMKU58/

I’ve had double ended snaps freeze up but never latches on Dutch doors, even in the awful Minnesota winters.

Anything that has moving parts you can tap gently and the ice should break off.
Keep tapping to get the parts moving as they should.

We use chains with double end snaps and holding the snaps in the hand for some seconds tends to defrost them, as does gingerly tapping them with pliers until they open.

I like the idea to run around oiling them before a frost.

not a de-icer but something I use to keep things like metal to metal bolts from freezing is to coat with cream lubercant. For decades I have used a product called LUBRIPLATE 130-AA GREASE, it is available in small 1.75 oz tubes

https://www.motionindustries.com/pro…p?sku=00830701

https://www.lubriplate.com/PDFs/PDS/…30-Series.aspx

what pre-coating does is prevents moisture to freeze to the metal surface

also OP might want to use a plastic flap to cover and to protect the lock

There are some great Ida’s on here:)

Where I can, I switch out gate chains and snaps for rubber bungee cords.

Regular “D-Icer” in the car parts department also works fine but our winters don’t get that treacherous.

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I noticed a de-icing spray in Tractor Supply today, if you have one near you. Wishing you the best.

As a nurse whose car doors would freeze shut while I was working, here’s what we did. Just fill a syringe with alcohol. We used a 10 cc with blunt neegle. Inserted needle in keyhole to unlock car, also squirt some on the moving part that latches your door shut.(Otherwise, the mechanism wouldn’t work and you had to hold your door shut while driving).

I imagine a squirt of rubbing alcohol will unstick any stall latches. Cheap too, doesn’t hurt your car paint either.

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I tap them lovingly with a club-hammer.

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The WD 40 worked great. Those latches were getting difficult anyway, so really need a little help. We ended up with a lot of rain, that flash froze into ice, but my latches all work fine.

Now…if I could hire a giant heating element to melt the lava flow of ice in my dry lot, that would be helpful.

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Well, you actually can… google ground thaw heaters. There are blankets you can buy or rent. I’m kinda tempted myself!

Exactly. Around a 70% solution of isopropyl alcohol if you want to mix it in a spray bottle.

As allons-y said. Or get a bottle of starting ether. Use the straw that usually comes with it to concentrate the spray.

I don’t use double snaps on gates, Ausy links don’t freeze.

I bought one of these little hand held torches for the tough stuff, lol. Can be refilled with propane lighter fluid.

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Me too. Environmental sound, and much more satisfying

isopropyl alcohol is a natural bi-product. Toss grain in a bucket with some sugar in a warm environment, bob’s your uncle.

Verses the “carbon first print” that is left after making and buying a “club hammer”. Just saying, sometimes we need to look at the bigger picture.

No one has suggested my go-to long handle butane lighter, maybe it’s a bad idea? Wait for it to cool before touching it, of course.

And leave at least one barn door open far enough to get horses in and out.

I made a small cup of hot water using my keurig to release my chickens this morning.

No way!!! Off to google…

Oh, well, in my case, a Stihl club hammer is a go-to tool for many farm conundrums - like de-icing, dislodging stuck t-posts, breaking up stuff for my burn pile, knocking the firewood out of my truck that I accidentally let freeze solid in the bed. It’s fast, it’s a good workout, it saves me from making a bigger effort with a lighter hammer. It makes my husband nervous to see me head for it. It hasn’t met a problem it can’t solve. Really, a perfect tool :lol:.

Alcohol isn’t the environmental disaster I was referring to – spray cans were. I deploy plenty of WD-40 and wasp spray around here and consider those high value tools. But, if I started spraying stall latches with de-icer for 4 months a year, well, that seems like a good place to look for a lower impact solution. Like my hammer, which, of course, will outlast this civilization – good point – but once it’s here, is a sunk cost, enviro-speaking-wise.

Also, if liquid ice removing tools don’t work, you’re left standing there, annoyed and locked out. Whereas with my hammer, I know I can get that door open for the cost of a few screws and some lumber. Do I rip my stall latches off? Not yet. Do I like knowing I can? Heck yes. Such is the attitude of a middle aged farmer lady standing in the dark in miserable weather, year after year. I like a serious tool :winkgrin:.

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