Differences between electric fence types & brands

[Jjb]

I am getting ready to order fence and pricing out. I have been researching Ramm, TS & Stateline.
What is the difference between electric tape, rope, braids and coated wire?
One better than the others?
Then supplier. Stateline is tempting as it has the least expensive but I do not see many reviews. Has anyone used electric fence products from them?

Also, what would be the purpose of having solar vs electric charger?

Finally. will be using cedar posts for outer perimeter and was thinking of the step-in post to divide.
Has anyone used these step ins before? I have seen mixed reviews.

Will be for two ponies.

Thanks

J

[poltroon]

My tape is Horseguard and I like it a lot. I would also trust Ramm to make a good fence.

In general, with fencing, the cheapest option is cheaper for a reason that will eventually make you sad. Electric fence depends on the gauge of the conductors to propagate the charge down the fence. People who sell electric febnce and want to make it cheaper will use metal that is less conductive and less of it both to save on the metal and on the shipping weight. The plastic elements may not hold up as well to UV light.

The reason to use a solar charger is if your fence is not near a source of electricity or if your area sees frequent power outages. The reason not to use a solar charger is that they’re more expensive per joule and they don’t generally have as much shock as an AC charger.

http://www.premier1suppplies.com is a good catalog to learn about the limitations and benefits of solar chargers. They’re not the only quality vendor but they have wonderful diagrams to explain some of the different issues and tradeoffs.

I’m not a fan of the plastic step-in posts. I find that the plastic degrades pretty rapidly and they’re also absurdly short for horses. For temporary use they’re ok. As an alternative, I’d suggest HorseGuard’s fiberglass temporary posts. Those are a little harder to drive but they are taller and last a long time, and they won’t crumble in your hands when you move them.

One of the questions is how aggressive these ponies are and how much they’ll want to be on the other side of the fence. You want to be sure there’s a conductor at nose level, because that’s where they will learn the fence hurts. If they touch it with their necks or manes first they can duck through the fence pretty easily, and the shock will send them forward through instead of back inside.

Another question for you is how much trouble you’ll have with weeds growing into the fence (that will eat your charge in a hurry) and also how moist your soil is. If your soil is really dry in summer, the fence will be less effective, because it depends on moisture in the soil as a conductor. In this case, the bipolar fences are worth considering.

Electric fence is a mental barrier rather than a physical one, so if the other side of the fence is especially bad (busy road, ponies are unattended most of the time, etc) I would recommend having two layers of fence that they have to get through before you have a problem.

[Jjb]

I have been reading through the threads.
I am down to HG tape and electro braid. I realize HG is probably better, but we have so many major projects going on right now if it turns out electro raid is significantly less will probably go that route.

here is my plan. ( for this moment), Will do cedar posts 20 ft apart. 4 strands of electric around perimeter, inside partitions 3 strands with either fiberglass or plastic step in posts.
has anyone used the plastic step ins? I picked one up and like it a lot … But have never used for fencing.

Next spring or summer, will increase the cedar posts to every 10 ft then add boards.

Both ponies are used to electric. One pony escapes frequently BUT I think it is because she is alone and she only has one strand of wire which she crawls under and runs to the horses down the road.
she will have plenty of pasture here along with a companion.

We are not too close to a road and mainly surrounded by trees, but I did consider a second fence all the way around. When you do thi, do you use a second charger?

We have electricity in the barn so will probably go with that and perhaps use solar if I do that second fencing.

not entirely sure what is considered dry soil. I did see that the re HG and bipolar.
No weeds touching fence ( unless I do that second fence) … Main fence will be mowed all the way around.

[Fairview_Horse_Cente]

Shock through coated wire! Electrobraid is very sharp and causes injury if a leg goes thru. Tape catches a lot of wind, so requires a lot of tightening, and maint.

HG Shock thru coated wire is wonderful as long as you make it hot - doesn’t have to be much shock, but enough that you don’t want to grab it. Posts except for corners or gate bracing can be 24 or even 32’ apart. If a giant oak tree falls on the fence, it will pop right back up with no damage. If a horse happens to try to jump, no scrapes or cuts. Mine has been up for over 3 years with 2 stallions, 2 mares, and I have to tighten about once every year or two. LOVE my fence!

[Jjb]

Do you have pics?

[Jjb]

Like this? http://www.rammfence.com/fence/flex-fence-for-horses/raceline-coated-wire

[Jjb]

What is the difference between the costed wire and Rope (from Ramm)?
is rope safer than braided?

[BasqueMom]

also add Centaur products to your research. Their electric coated wire is called White Lightning (does come in colors). Electrobraid has been known to cut to the bone if a horse gets wrapped up in it. Yes, it’s electric and shouldn’t happen but it does.

Whatever you choose, 20 feet is a pretty heft span and would recommend starting out going with less. If you plan to go with board someday, 8 foot is normally used as the horizontal blanks are usually 16 feet long.

[Fairview_Horse_Cente]

This is what I have. My posts are 24-32’ apart, except for corner and gate bracing. http://www.rammfence.com/fence/elect…320-foot-rolls