DIY- Replacing Trailer Floor

Anyone have any words of wisdom?

Have a 3 horse slant Circle K bumper pull. The floor is rotten at the back door and not currently safe to use. Trailer is 9 years old now, so I imagine this is par.

My handy husband thinks he can do it himself. The boards are not wedged under the frame of the trailer. They seem to just be lined up with the wall and bolted in. They are wood. The tack room has a separate metal floor (I assume steel).

Should we attempt to find oak boards or are high saturation pressure treated OK? We were thinking of putting some sort of stain or rhino liner on the floor, especially at the back door, to keep the boards from getting wet. Thoughts? Should we try to use some sort of sealant between the wall and board to keep water out? Thoughts on this?

Thanks!

We just replaced the floor in our stock trailer, it is a lot of work if you are one person, we used pressure treated wood and covered the floor with mats. Our problem was once work started, a lot of rust was found on the sidewalls close to the floor, so both sides had to be redone.

There were lots of comments on a thread about Rumba (?) flooring - a manufactured product…didn’t pay a lot of attention at the time.

[QUOTE=Foxtrot’s;8578204]
There were lots of comments on a thread about Rumba (?) flooring - a manufactured product…didn’t pay a lot of attention at the time.[/QUOTE]

I have Rumber (“Rumba”) in my trailer and has been so nice to have it come in planks like wood but its made of rubber. i no longer have mats that need to be pulled out. i just remove as many shavings as i can then spray it out the back. it is also a softer and quieter ride for the horses. it also comes with a 20 year warranty for horse/livestock trailers but there are strict guidelines to follow for install for the warranty to be honored.

I remember doing this over a decade ago for our stock trailer. Used 2-inch thick oak boards. Getting the old floor out was a very hard job. From my memory, you will want a good power saw, and a very strong drill (forget battery operated). I seem to remember some special type of screw, too. I have no desire to do that again. Good luck to you…

I used white oak planks to redo my trailer floor, then sealed them when done.

While we had the floor out, we re-sealed the frame and fixed a couple of wiring junctions that looked weak.

You will DEFINITELY need a powerful, corded driver for the bolts with a counter sink (you don’t want bolt heads protruding above the floor surface).

I replaced a trailer floor many years ago. It was originally oak so I went back with Oak for the strength. Rumber and pressure treated pine will need more supports than full dimension rough cut oak boards. I did treat the oak wood with a sealer. I found the oak boards at a pallet manufacturing plant.

You might do the same to source oak boards in your location.