"Don't punish for growling"

[QUOTE=Canaqua;6180124]
We have a 14 year old ACD/JRT mix who is the epitome of a strong minded dog! She also went through 6 homes in 18 months before she came to us as a young dog, because she is very difficult to manage. [/QUOTE]

She is precisely the kind of dog I am talking about. I didn’t know this dog personally, but I knew of her and respected her owner enough to believe her when Shirley Chong wrote about her bitch, Chamois. Chamois had been through several punishment based homes before she came to Shirley and she had a hair trigger…she was willing to die before she would submit to punishment. It took several years but Shirley finally got through to her that she would not be hanging her, hitting her or otherwise using physical punishment on her. Chamois turned around and became a safe dog…for Shirley.

Another example would be Flash, who belonged to Dr. Karen Overall. He was a dangerous dog who became her right hand man.

http://www.rallytorescue.org/articles/article.aspx?articleId=145

The story of Flash is heart breaking and awe inspiring. Heart breaking because no dog should ever have to get to such a place in their life by 3.5 years old and inspiring because he showed the world that with time, training and management many of these dogs can be helped (note I said helped, not cured).

[QUOTE=EqTrainer;6179904]
Ok, so…

The older dog and toddler. Well, I think if a child torments a dog they should be removed and both scolded. The problem is two fold, the child should NEVER be doing that, BUT because it happened, the dog must be informed that he is not allowed to have an opinion. It is unfair and it sucks for the dog. Better to not let that happen in the first place."

Why does the dog not get an opinion? If someone kicks me, I’m probably going to respond in a less than pleasant manner! (yes, even if that person is a 2 year old child. No kicking. End of discussion.) I would probably start by “growling”- eg verbal comments that I do no like that treatment. If it continued, then there would be further consequences. This same courtesy is owed to a dog. The are living, breathing, thinking critters. Opinions are OK in my book. Doesn’t mean she can randomly bite people, but in my opinion, a dog that is being picked on, and doesn’t retaliate gets a gold star…the one that does is being “normal” and has a right to stand up for his/her body and protection!

Dr Doolittle:

“In this situation, you did the only appropriate thing! (Management of the situation, exactly…) Stupid kid Or should I say stupid PARENTS!”
Actually, the parents were trying, didn’t have dogs at their house, and this behavior randomly started, kid was 18 mos. I think maybe he just liked it when dogs moved? And Kate was a boring old lady :slight_smile: But while they were working through it, I was not going to take chances. The current Heeler would probably be excused as well…because she would think it was an invitation to play rough and probably knock the kid over “playing”!

Awe-inspiring? Hardly. She used “re-direction”, a very old technique. And she controlled Flashes environment so completely that there were few opportunities for him to fail. And, while I’m betting he didn’t pay any attention to all the verbiage she threw at him ("Flash, I’m going to the kitchen now. Flash, come with me. Flash SIT.") he probably DID respond to her body language and her redirection (“Flash, sit.”) Given the fact she was working with a working breed this isn’t surprising.

If you read the story, she spent a HUGE amt. of energy and time with Flash for YEARS…probably the only person to have done so in his life. Given that she was experienced with dogs and experienced with the breed + the vast amt. of energy she put into the project, it doesnt’ surprise me that he did improve (although, like 3dogpack mention) was never cured.

Like a person with PTSD or a mental illness, many dogs can be “fixed” with enough effort AND making sure they remain in a controlled environment. But they will never be safe without these steps.

Most people who are busy with jobs, raising a family, etc. simply don’t want to be responsible for this sort of “heavy lifting” for years and years.

Too bad for the dog, of course…

As for the idea that Flash developed these issues due to “abuse”…I’m sorry, the worst biters I’ve ever encountered have been spoiled little lap dogs who have never had a day of discipline their whole lives.

And we’ve ALL heard of stories of horrific abuse ladled out to dogs who held no grudge when they finally landed in a good, loving home.

Like people, each dog is different.

The take home message is that physical correction is NOT (necessarily) abuse, and unconditional, smothering love with no boundaries and limitations often IS.

And THIS is what so many people don’t get…it’s not black & white.

Interesting thread.

I inherited a JRT from my parents when he was 12, and he did not do well with my toddler. The kid never, ever did anything to him – I watched them like a hawk – but the dog would go out of his way to growl at the kid. Like walk over to the kid and snarl. In my mind, it was both lack of respect and fear. But it was still not possible to keep him without some serious change in personality. I was seriously concerned that he would bite if I had my back turned and the toddler approached him. I tried to rehome him but no one wants an old, cancerous, cranky dog so his options were limited.

So I kept him in a crate for several months whenever kid was up (kid goes to daycare so only a couple hours a day), then he graduated to other side of baby gate, then close supervision. And yes, when he made the least sign of aggression/dominance toward the kid, I punished him and then put him outside for half an hour or so.

For the last six months or he has been perfect. He even tries to play with the kid and lick his face/wag his tail around him now. I crate him when we have other kids over and ensure they stay away from his crate so he has a safe space. But if he would lift a lip he would get a CTJ moment and removal again. It is simply not permissible for him to even approach the line. He also now has more confidence that the toddler will not hurt him (our #1 family rule is being nice to the animals and toddler gets punished for any deviation from perfect animal treatment as well).

Sometimes punishment is the best of available alternatives. I have a child, I can’t devote my life to the whims of a dog. Unlike most dog/kid situations, the kid was here first. I am willing to make reasonable accomodations, and have done, but at some point most people have more to do than just train a dog.

I am the first to admit I know very little about dog training. I did some investigation when we were going through this, and this plan was the best I could come up with and it did work. The more dog-centric no punishment methods might also work but our situation was such they were not practical solutions, too intensive and I am not, as I said, a dog person.

I will say that if he didn’t shape up I would have put him down as he was not rehomable. I was pretty close a time or two, especially when he had a big tumor and I had to pay $1,000 to remove it right when he was at his worst. But I’m a softie and couldn’t do it. I had to give him the chance that the tumor was part of why he was so grouchy, and it might have been – hard to say.

[QUOTE=Kyzteke;6180470]
Given that she was experienced with dogs and experienced with the breed + the vast amt. of energy she put into the project, it doesnt’ surprise me that he did improve (although, like 3dogpack mention) was never cured.

The take home message is that physical correction is NOT (necessarily) abuse, and unconditional, smothering love with no boundaries and limitations often IS.

And THIS is what so many people don’t get…it’s not black & white.[/QUOTE]

I guess I misread, I thought he was cured if he was going on TV and used to help people who were afraid of dogs. “He would be part of television and live-audience demonstrations and instructional videos created by Overall and other university faculty. He also was helpful with some of Overall’s patients who were afraid of other dogs, but were fond of Flash.”

I do agree that some people love their dogs too much and give them no boundaries and that causes many problems. Like aggressiveness. Spoiled little resource guarders like the little lap Chi’s that bite when you try to touch the owner. Spoiling is just as bad as physical abuse in my book.

Random tangent warning; The Overall story reminded me of the Aussie biter I took in as a 6 or 8 yo. She’d bitten 2 people by then and needed to get out of dodge and into a new situation. I had her until she passed at 14. She never bit anyone again, and I never used a verbal or physical punishment on her. She was a fear biter. I didn’t do anything other than give her a little structure and I made sure that if she were uncomfortable she always had an out, a safe place to retreat to where she wouldn’t be bothered.

I think many people are also swinging on the pendulum that ONCE said every dog that growls needs to be punished and dogs that bite get PTS no questions asked. e swing from" it’s always the dogs fault" .To more of a hey people actually do have a responsible role to play int he dogs behavior and lets examine what people (the owner) can do to positively influence this dogs behavior.

And every case is different.

I don’t personally agree with physical punishment like Kyzkte doles out in her house over food " a quick grab at the scruff and a smack on the butt…" but if you want to hit your dog in your house so be it. Your have the right to do that. I don’t think it’s a good training philosophy and with the wrong dog it will get you bit.

another tangent: My uncle has a dog that has bitten or snapped unprovoked at my DD 3x now. All my dd does is walk past, or walk up to pet. Other children can do the same without any reaction from the dog. So far she shows a great bite inhibition. I keep my dd away from her. My uncle verbally and physically punished the dog after the first time, the second no one but baby sitters were around (and they were left with inst. to keep dd away from the dog) the 3rd offense the uncle went after the dog again. Since they live in another state and I see him and the dog 3x a year I’ve not invested any training into the dog. I should. But I just keep my dd away from the dog. Point is that punishment is not ever going to work. I don’t understand why no one can see that, but then again my uncle is coming at it from a viewpoint that I don’t understand… that the dog should damn well obey and respect it’s owner by not biting a young child. But that’s not ever going to work. We either do some counter conditioning work and management OR just keep the 2 separate.

[QUOTE=EqTrainer;6180177]
I cannot imagine having a dog I could not safely leave alone with my almost nine year old daughter.[/QUOTE]

:lol:It’s not nearly as burdensome as you might think! The dog is glued to 1) my husband or 2) me, if he’s not available or is being too “boring” for her. Always, she hauls her, tired, 14 year old, butt, up and from room to room to be with one of us, even in the bathroom. Since my 9 year old son is not yet old enough to be left home alone, with or without dog, they are pretty much never alone together, by default.

My, now 21 year old, son was able to handle her alone by the time he was 12, he had enough impulse control by then to NOT tease her, hassle her or get in her face. He walked her every afternoon after school for 6 years and became her 3rd most favored person. The 9 year old is not there yet, in terms of maturity and impluse control.

[QUOTE=EqTrainer;6180177]
I cannot imagine having a dog I could not safely leave alone with my almost nine year old daughter.[/QUOTE]

This is a tangent to a point I’d like to make. I personally would never have a dog I couldn’t trust alone with my family. NEVER.
But, for those of you who do have difficult dogs, don’t you find it incredibly stressful to have a dog you can’t trust? The RR we adopted is very sweet and loving, but also fairly damaged. If it were up to me, we would have taken him right back to the shelter, but hubby wanted to persist because he felt (rightly) that we were probably his only chance at a home. I’ve always had dogs that I’ve raised and trained myself, never owned one that I thought would potentially bite someone, it makes me apprehensive in many instances that I’ve never had to worry about before . I do try to manage situations that I know will be difficult. For instance I have to make sure not to startle him while sleeping because he will snap. When people come to the house, I have to put him away before I open the door. He’s very aggressive in the car, so I have to make sure people don’t lean up against the car or engage him inside it. I can manage it, but it’s oh so tiresome, and a huge responsibility, and there is this deep down fear that eventually the odds are high that he will bite someone.

[QUOTE=chism;6180764]
.
But, for those of you who do have difficult dogs, don’t you find it incredibly stressful to have a dog you can’t trust? [/QUOTE]

There are occasional days when having a difficult dog is a PITA, but most of the time I’m not stressed out over it. I’m a patient person by nature and don’t schedule myself super tightly if I can possibly avoid it, leaving space in the schedule for mishaps and things not going as planned, I HATE to rush, that’s when bad things happen. Our tough dog is old and has been mellowing out, maybe I’ve forgotten how hard it was when she was 5 and had endless energy ;). Though, back then, I put on my sneakers and ran 3-5 miles with her every morning to take the wind out of her sails. Our new dog, also a rescue, is a total sweetheart (picked purposefully so she would not challenge the ACD mix), it is kind of nice to only have to worry about her tearing the house apart and not about her hurting anyone!

I need to clarify – these are puppies I’m talking about. Example: my new heeler pup I’ve had for about 2-3 mos. He’s almost 5 mos now. He sleeps on the bed, follows me EVERYWHERE, rides in the car, sits on my lap while I’m watching tv…and has been smacked exactly ONCE.

This was when I got up from my chair, put my dinner on the small, low table next to that chair and went to get some more water. Was gone maybe 45-60 seconds…when I came back there was pup – face buried in MY dinner bowl.

So he got the “NO BAD DOG!!” (first and only time thus far I’ve ever raised my voice to him) the scruff grab and the slap on the butt.

He’s never needed another correction. Last night I went answer the phone and my dinner was on that same table for over 30 mins and was never bothered.

Considering that the other (older dogs) drag him around by the collar, roll him off the hay pile and, in the case of the Pit Bull, hold him down while torturing him relentlessly, ALL without causing any observable lasting traumas in the pup, I doubt very seriously if that single, relatively mild slap on the butt is going to bother him.

But I’ll ask him tonight when he climbs into bed with me.:lol:

Most of my dogs rarely get smacked or even yelled at, because they don’t need it. Why? Because we got this “who is in charge” deal sorted out right in the very beginning.

As for getting bitten – would I do this with a grown Rottie I didn’t know and had just adopted from a shelter? Well, I’m guessing not.

I’ve gotten bit once in my life, and that includes ALL the dogs I’ve met in my life, not just mine. Considering I’ve handled and been around ALOT of dogs in almost 60 yrs, I must be either VERY lucky and doing something right (and I assure you, I am NOT lucky).

So again…you really do have to sort of know what you are doing.

Dogs correct each other by #1) Body language, #2) Audio warning and #3) Physical correction…and it seems to work pretty well for them…so far I have yet to see a clicker or a bag of liver snaps used yet…

[QUOTE=chism;6180764]
This is a tangent to a point I’d like to make. I personally would never have a dog I couldn’t trust alone with my family. NEVER.
But, for those of you who do have difficult dogs, don’t you find it incredibly stressful to have a dog you can’t trust? The RR we adopted is very sweet and loving, but also fairly damaged. If it were up to me, we would have taken him right back to the shelter, but hubby wanted to persist because he felt (rightly) that we were probably his only chance at a home. I’ve always had dogs that I’ve raised and trained myself, never owned one that I thought would potentially bite someone, it makes me apprehensive in many instances that I’ve never had to worry about before . I do try to manage situations that I know will be difficult. For instance I have to make sure not to startle him while sleeping because he will snap. When people come to the house, I have to put him away before I open the door. He’s very aggressive in the car, so I have to make sure people don’t lean up against the car or engage him inside it. I can manage it, but it’s oh so tiresome, and a huge responsibility, and there is this deep down fear that eventually the odds are high that he will bite someone.[/QUOTE]

Chism, I could not live with that, either. You have my sympathies.

Physical correction…

People are and will always be all over the board about this one, with dogs, horses, kids, etc.

I made the point on a off course thread that the (horse) determines if the treatment is abusive or not. Interesting responses, right down to something quite personal and nasty. Much wonderment and ah ha! Also. Kinda funny.

My dogs have run the gamut on this subject. At one point I was taking groups of puppies out of a kill shelter and raising/spaying/neutering/house training/obedience training them so they could be placed. It was fun and fascinating. One of my quirks is, I HATE for a dog to jump up. Every dog was taught within two days that the ONLY way to get ANYTHING from me was to sit. So they would all run up, line up, and sit. Precious. Never had to do much but wait them out and reward instantly.

Now, my purebred BC at one time decided he could run by LMEqT and swipe her. Totally unpredictable. Only her. She was four, I think. Lots of work, dog trainers… No change. Finally one day he did it in front of me and I slammed him down onto the ground. He popped up, looked at me, looked at her, walked away. Never did it again and he certainly is an oddball but not scarred for life.

[QUOTE=chism;6180764]
But, for those of you who do have difficult dogs, don’t you find it incredibly stressful to have a dog you can’t trust? The RR we adopted is very sweet and loving, but also fairly damaged. If it were up to me, we would have taken him right back to the shelter, but hubby wanted to persist because he felt (rightly) that we were probably his only chance at a home.[/QUOTE]

It’s very stressful. I’ve never owned a dog who bit, but I’ve lived with one and it is extremely stressful, even when you’re not the one primarily responsible for controlling him. Never trusting that you can pet him, never trusting that you can walk through a room he’s in, never trusting him or relaxing around him. I understand why people make such a point that a biting dog isn’t to blame for his behavior the way, say, an abusive husband is, but on a practical level, it really has the same effect. Living with a dog who bites is living in an atmosphere of potential violence all the time. The dog may only bite once a year, but you’re living with that “is it today?” question all 365 days.

Dogs that are punished for growling are no less threatened/upset/aggressive. The only difference is you’ve taken away the early warning system. Then comes the story of how Rover mauled someone “without warning”. He was “just sitting there happily” and next thing they knew he tore into the person/dog near him.

In a perfect world, the better goal is to address the underlying aggression/over-arousal so the dog isn’t likely to growl or bite. One book that’s great for this is “Click to Calm”. Another good dog trainer has a different approach “Control Unleashed”. Or enlist the help of a smart, local trainer. Another approach is Jesus Ruiz-Rosales’ Constructional Aggression Treatment (C.A.T.), a training method to teach fearful animals they can control the terrifying stimulus.

That being said, I feel your frustration. I have a damaged-goods poodle that has excellent bite inhibition but growls at everyone but me. Just the sound of footsteps upstairs can trigger it. She came to me at age 5 after living 3 years in a backyard kennel, working as a puppy factory. Before that she was some idiot’s gift to their significant other, and like many gifts she was tossed aside and forgotten (in a small crate 24-7). We’ve tried everything from positive basic obedience classes to lots of socialization to a vet-suggested trial of Xanax. I’ve come to the conclusion that maybe there are the rare few dogs that can’t really be fixed and will always do bizarre things.

The question you need to ask yourself is how good is the dog’s bite inhibition? Will this particular dog ever cross the line and end up biting someone? If you’re not sure, talk to a smart local pro trainer and get a behavioral evaluation to at least get a professional’s guess on this dog. One place you might start looking for a consult is the IAABC list.

[QUOTE=chism;6180764]
This is a tangent to a point I’d like to make. I personally would never have a dog I couldn’t trust alone with my family. NEVER.
But, for those of you who do have difficult dogs, don’t you find it incredibly stressful to have a dog you can’t trust? [/QUOTE]

This is a two headed coin for some of us. I have a dog I trust with my family, but not a family I trust with my dog. My toddler is never left unattended with the dogs(well really at all :wink: ) because at that age Lord only knows what they might do. And quite frankly, I do not expect my dogs to put up with her trying to practice “posting” on my old arthritic ACD. The dog is too old to be able to get up well with DD on her, and if I’m not on top of things that doesn’t leave her much options to aviod the pain.

On the other hand, my male ACD is fantastic for me, because we have a good relationship. You do as I say and you get rewarded, you disobey and I ignore you. However DH doesn’t get it, and doesn’t put enough effort into the reward portion. So for him, the dog is a total jerk, no manners, runs off, counter surfs, chases the cats. So he just goes almost everywhere with me. I trust him, but not the hubby, and quite frankly I’ve pretty much given up on getting DH trained. Although that episode of Big Bang Theory with Sheldon using chocolates to reward Penny does come to mind…

[QUOTE=EqTrainer;6181002]
I made the point on a off course thread that the (horse) determines if the treatment is abusive or not. Interesting responses, right down to something quite personal and nasty. Much wonderment and ah ha! Also. Kinda funny.
.[/QUOTE]

Sorry I did not find your other thread… so forgive me if I am misunderstanding your statement. You say that the horse determines what is abuse. I’d be curious to hear why you say that?

I don’t think the animal decides what is abusive; I think there are rules to follow when using punishment. I think when punishment is used appropriately, it reduces the chances the animal will keep giving the behavior. If used inappropriately it’s inflicting pain/discomfort/fear without purpose, which is what I’d consider abuse.

For example, a common mistake I see is people who strike their horse way too long after the horse made his mistake. Positive punishment (eg. hitting, whacking with a whip, shanking) must occur when the horse is misbehaving, not 15 seconds or a minute later. If the undesired behavior has already stopped, it’s too late to be punishing it. If you apply punishment once the horse has moved on to a different behavior, then the correction is being applied to the newer behavior and NOT to the undesired one.

Take for example the horse who learned to step away from the mounting block while the rider is trying to get on. So imagine today he’s put by the mounting block but won’t stand still and the rider falls. He scoots across the ring away from all the commotion. By the time that rider gets up, dusts themselves off, picks up the whip, and walks across the ring to the horse, it is TOO LATE to use punishment to teach the horse about standing at mounting blocks. It might feel good to a frustrated rider to whack the horse a good one once she ran after and caught her horse. However, the horse gets nothing out of the experience except perhaps a little distrust of his handler. Worse, some horses will learn to avoid being caught in this type of setting and will run far away from a rider who just had a fall.

There are a few variations of the rules of punishment for animal trainers, but they seem to converge with the same general ideas. Here’s one trainer that tries to explain the rules:
http://servicedogsawyer.blogspot.com/2009/03/rules-of-punishmentfood-for-thought.html

Don’t get me wrong. I don’t think applying punishment in animal training is always immoral. I just feel there should it must be applied fairly, promptly, and consistently. Anything else is just hitting for hitting’s sake.

[QUOTE=chism;6180764]
This is a tangent to a point I’d like to make. I personally would never have a dog I couldn’t trust alone with my family. NEVER.
But, for those of you who do have difficult dogs, don’t you find it incredibly stressful to have a dog you can’t trust? The RR we adopted is very sweet and loving, but also fairly damaged. If it were up to me, we would have taken him right back to the shelter, but hubby wanted to persist because he felt (rightly) that we were probably his only chance at a home. I’ve always had dogs that I’ve raised and trained myself, never owned one that I thought would potentially bite someone, it makes me apprehensive in many instances that I’ve never had to worry about before . I do try to manage situations that I know will be difficult. For instance I have to make sure not to startle him while sleeping because he will snap. When people come to the house, I have to put him away before I open the door. He’s very aggressive in the car, so I have to make sure people don’t lean up against the car or engage him inside it. I can manage it, but it’s oh so tiresome, and a huge responsibility, and there is this deep down fear that eventually the odds are high that he will bite someone.[/QUOTE]

That does sound awful. You have my sympathies. For me, though, having difficult dogs isn’t too much of a problem. It’s just like having horses in a way–I keep mine at home and it is really restricting because I have to be home to feed them, it’s hard to go on vacation, etc. etc. :wink: But I get enough of a reward for it that I’m happy to do it, with maybe just the occasional grumble.

For me, my difficult dogs are the same way. I do have to make some changes to my lifestyle depending on the particular dog’s issues, but I really enjoy working with them so I don’t mind.

It would be a nightmare if I wasn’t willing to make those changes or if I had children that made that difficult. Lucky for my dogs I’m a crazy dog lady. :lol:

you didn’t misread. Either Kyzteke is being confrontational or defensive. Flash did become very reliable and he helped Dr. Overall a lot with both people and dogs.

I think it’s ridiculous to say that if you punish a dog for growling in one situation it will learn not to growl ever and become a dangerous snapper. Please. If I punish Rocky for growling at a stranger who has entered the house that doesn’t teach him not to growl at my niece if she pulls his ears. The dog doesn’t correlate the two because he is reacting to different things. And for the record, he is ABSOLUTELY allowed to growl at the child to warn her to leave him alone, and the child will be removed, not the dog, because he has done nothing wrong.

If a dog can remember that dad will feed him from the table but mom will toss him out of the kitchen for begging (and we all know every dog will remember this) then they can separate don’t growl in situation A but it’s okay in situation B.

[QUOTE=philosoraptor;6181240]
Sorry I did not find your other thread… so forgive me if I am misunderstanding your statement. You say that the horse determines what is abuse. I’d be curious to hear why you say that?

I don’t think the animal decides what is abusive; I think there are rules to follow when using punishment. I think when punishment is used appropriately, it reduces the chances the animal will keep giving the behavior. If used inappropriately it’s inflicting pain/discomfort/fear without purpose, which is what I’d consider abuse.

For example, a common mistake I see is people who strike their horse way too long after the horse made his mistake. Positive punishment (eg. hitting, whacking with a whip, shanking) must occur when the horse is misbehaving, not 15 seconds or a minute later. If the undesired behavior has already stopped, it’s too late to be punishing it. If you apply punishment once the horse has moved on to a different behavior, then the correction is being applied to the newer behavior and NOT to the undesired one.

Take for example the horse who learned to step away from the mounting block while the rider is trying to get on. So imagine today he’s put by the mounting block but won’t stand still and the rider falls. He scoots across the ring away from all the commotion. By the time that rider gets up, dusts themselves off, picks up the whip, and walks across the ring to the horse, it is TOO LATE to use punishment to teach the horse about standing at mounting blocks. It might feel good to a frustrated rider to whack the horse a good one once she ran after and caught her horse. However, the horse gets nothing out of the experience except perhaps a little distrust of his handler. Worse, some horses will learn to avoid being caught in this type of setting and will run far away from a rider who just had a fall.

There are a few variations of the rules of punishment for animal trainers, but they seem to converge with the same general ideas. Here’s one trainer that tries to explain the rules:
http://servicedogsawyer.blogspot.com/2009/03/rules-of-punishmentfood-for-thought.html

Don’t get me wrong. I don’t think applying punishment in animal training is always immoral. I just feel there should it must be applied fairly, promptly, and consistently. Anything else is just hitting for hitting’s sake.[/QUOTE]

Yes, timing is essential. Any punishment the animal doesnt understand is abuse. Any punishment past what is necessary to make the point clear is abuse. Any punishment that leaves physical or mental damage is abuse.

What I meant is, that different animals have different levels of sensitivity and what is a mild correction for one could be abuse for another.

As a sidenote, training or retraining an animal who has been inadvertently abused with inappropriate correction is incredibly difficult IME because the simplest, quickest, easiest tool has been taken away from you. On the other hand, animals who have received fair and appropriate correction are trusting, confident and easy to live and work with.

One of the best examples I have is a horse who has been taught to stand using the return/reward method. Everytime the horse moves out of place he is quietly returned to his spot and told STAND. Reward in the way of treats is of course dependent on the horses innate personality and should be done randomly but as a appropriate reward, works best that way. Anyway. Eventually, once the horse understands STAND, he then needs to be corrected if he moves - NOT TRAINED FURTHER. This is where I see people really screw up with animals. Their animals never become reliable because they dont know when they have trained and its time to move in, or maybe they never do train because they are inconcistent or wont take the time or whatever.

So you at this point have a horse hopefully, if you have taken the time to teach him STAND, who now if he moves gets a growl or a tap of the halter or whatever is appropriate for him. If correctly trained the stand overrules his desire to flee and if he feels the need to flee he can be corrected to stand. When he gets his feet trimmed, he knows STAND overrules everything and so he does not really need to " learn " to have his feet trimmed per say if he knows STAND is the rule. He is easy to train to be mounted because STAND comes first.

Now. If you reinforce STAND with further movement, such as moving their feet, you send a mixed message. Stand/move. Might tentatively work with a naturally phlegmatic horse but not with a more sensitive one. It creates confusion and an unsafe environment for the person under the horse, who needs the horse to STAND to be safe, not MOVE if he gets nervous or disobedient. Its no different than whoa/go, really. The horse never becomes reliable and therefore safe. They are not safe to mount, for example, when they think they should move if things go wrong.

Not using negative reinforcement ever in training certainly can be done. It does not IME create a reliable horse or a reliable dog. Often it inadvertently creates situational training (animal is only reliable under certain circumstances, such as at home) and the owner doesnt understand why when he takes his horse or dog somewhere it now has no manners. Well, for example, if every time your horse moves instead of STANDS, you run him around in an environment where he is not stimulated, he might seem to understand. But when you take him somewhere where he is stimulated, moving his feet becomes exciting and builds his adreneline up and the horse you thought was so obedient is suddenly uncontrollable. But the one who was trained to stand, and then corrected for not, can be corrected when he is disobedient and he understands why and what to do.

Sorry am mixing up dogs/ horses/ people I am in a big hurry and certainly did not explain this well but I have to go!

Why? Because we got this “who is in charge” deal sorted out right in the very beginning.

see, I don’t believe dogs (or horses) understand this very HUMAN attitude at all. The behaviors humans engage in in order to teach the dog “who is in charge” are ALWAYS aversive and punishment-based, and have the side effect of “carpet bombing” behavior. If you punish your dog a lot, your dog will stop behaving. He learns it’s not safe to do much of anything in your presence, so he doesn’t. Many people think this is a sign of a well-behaved dog- gee, he lies quietly in the corner while I’m watching him. So they think “Being in charge” teaches the dog something about behavior, but it doesn’t really. It just makes the dog afraid of behaving when around you. Which should make you sad. And should also make you notice the behaviorally-repressed dog isn’t actually a well-behaved, well-trained dog. One hint is how he behaves when you aren’t there. And does he actually DO desirable things, like obey cues, or just refrain from doing much of anything at all?

Dogs don’t speak english, and unless taught otherwise they behave like dogs. You can be totally and fully in charge, and your dog will still behave like a dog- jump on people, bark, pee on the floor, steal food, eat the couch- until you teach the dog how people expect dogs to behave. Which has nothing to do with “Being in charge”. It’s about education of the dog.

Now, “Not being in charge” doesn’t mean the dog can do anything he likes- no. You systematically teach the dog how to behave and carefully lay out the rules. We do this but not this, and now we do this, and when this happens we do this. If you want this, you have to do this first. Rules, discipline, and consistency.

Most of the time when dogs don’t behave the way we’d like them to behave it’s because of one of two reasons: the dog doesn’t understand what you want; or the dog is under-motivated to do what you want the dog to do. In the example of walking away and expecting the puppy to not eat your supper, the puppy has no idea you don’t want him to eat your food. So if you don’t want your dog to eat your food when you walk away, you first have to teach the dog what you want and then you have to motivate your dog to do it. The given example of beating your dog when he tries to eat your food may or may not work- he might figure out you don’t want him to eat it, but find the joys of eating it to be so high that he doesn’t care if you beat him when you catch him. Or he may figure out that you can’t beat him if you can’t catch him, and now you’ve entered into the battle so many people have with their dogs: they behave like angels until you turn your back. Thus the strategy laid out is sub-optimal in many ways.
If you instead realize dogs will behave like dogs, you can prevent him from ever eating your food in the first place, and with a few simple steps, produce a well-behaved dog who will never eat your food, period, even when you aren’t home. I won’t outline the method of teaching a dog to not steal food, but it involves a period of management + reinforcement, then removal of the mangement period + reinforcement, then it becomes a habit. No punishments are handed out.

I will move on to “Growling”. Growling is the dog communicating very important information. You WANT your dog to communicate with you. If he’s so upset that he is growling, you want to KNOW THAT FACT. So you certainly don’t want to get angry with the dog for growling, or punish the dog for growling; but you don’t want to ignore it. You need to act. If someone is in danger of getting bit by the growling dog, you need to engage in “emergency management”. This is not training, and is not expected to change the dog’s future behavior; it’s expected to change what is happening right now. Change something- call the dog and run awaytogether from the bad guy; call the dog to you and crate the dog; call the child to the next room and safety and shut the door behind you; stop what you are doing to the dog for a few minutes; depends on the circumstances.
Then you are very likely going to want to come up with a training plan so the dog, when put in that situation in future will not feel the need to growl; or a management plan, so the dog won’t be put in that situation in future.

Most dogs growl during situations when they don’t feel comfortable. YOU may think that yelling at your dog, or yanking on your dog, or hitting your dog will somehow convince him that yes, he does feel comfortable, but come on, do you REALLY think that hitting your dog will make him enjoy having the toddler yank on his ear even more? What have you taught your dog- gee, toddlers= ear pain + owner hits me = best to bite the toddler before any of that happens.