Got me blushing 2Dogs!
A word on bit contact. Driving rein contact is different than what is expected from a ridden horse. Length of reins will change the feel and leverage you use right off. You can’t expect him to be as sensitive without help of your body and legs in the saddle. We actually think trying to keep them extra light to the reins is a disservice to the horse, because he will over-react when he feels any contact using the reins. Heads fly up, chins tuck behind the vertical as he hides from the bit touch. Can’t steer him from a vehicle with his chin on his chest, that is dangerous! And much as you try to stay light, driving reins “just are” heavier by being longer, maybe thicker and wider, not giving you the feel of riding reins.
We like to go for an “educated mouth” that accepts rein contact with a light feel. Horse gives to the bit, nose comes down as you take up reins slightly, on up to full vertical headset if asked. The hindquarters always continue with drive forward, but the front end is moving higher, head and neck rise to balance body as he collects to balance in your hands. The FEEL of reins in your hands is barely increased since he is still giving to the bit. No tug-of-war, not you holding his head up, he is doing self-carriage, not hanging on you. This is our goal when starting with our young horses.
We think this goal is much more easily attained using curb bits, and time. Final goal here is a horse responsive in a curb bit, ridden and driven. He works WITH you, gIves to your hands, hunts the bit feel if you throw away the reins. Head may drop to his ankles, looking for the bit contact! You and horse are always “talking with the reins” using very light touches. This may not be YOUR driving horse goal and that is fine for how you plan to use him.
Snaffle, jointed or a bar mouth, no shanks, are ok for a short starting time. But (for us) actually seem to make our horses heavy in what we ask of them. They want us to hold up their heads, bull right into pull or go thru the bit. Been true with all breeds we have had over many years. Mouth may be untouched but is NOT very sensitive moving into restraint! We call it an “an uneducated mouth”. You would sure THINK a young horse just starting would easily be sensitive, responsive, but they are not. That all has to be taught over time. Many “hard mouthed” horses are just uneducated mouths, they never get rewarded when they give to pressure, so why bother? Mouths get numb. Many “light-mouth” horses are WAYY over reactive, if you touch the reins, heads fly up, no contact allowed. Again, uneducated mouths, not really light.
We start ours later, at a late 3yrs and get more serious at 4 years old. They just do not seem able to pay attention any younger. Mares are slightly better than goofy young gelding who want to play. Bodies are more developed, bones more finished (though not done growing yet) to take the work of training. Their teeth have been checked, wolf teeth removed as yearlings if we have them then. Kind of funny, I have only had one young horse, that never got wolf teeth, in lots of years of horse owning! Removing wolf teeth young is easier, they are much smaller to come out quickly.
If you wish to train on the lines with a halter, I suggest using a very tightly fitted halter. Tighten down the noseband, crown, so it fits very snug all over. Halter will stay in place better on his head, not rotate around with rein pull, to get in his eyes by sliding sideways with every rein movement. Rein cues will be more clear with less halter movement on his head.
