I’m in the process of teaching my horse to drive (going very well!!). My next step is to begin adding weight and ropes and such to her. For now I’ll probably just use a cinch breastplate or saddle and whatnot, but I’d like to start looking for a harness. I probably won’t be driving her much, just for fun whenever.
There’s not much on Craigslist or it’s too far from me. I’ve yet to check Facebook yardsale sites. I don’t really care for material although leather is best. Where’s the best place to get a good deal on a decent harness?
There are several groups on facebook for buying and selling harnesses (Carriage Driving Classifieds, North American Carriage Driving Classifieds, CD-L, etc), I’ve had really good luck posting on there with what I’m looking for. You can also check with the Amish in Ohio and Pennsylvania (they don’t have websites, but usually their phone numbers are available online).
Dumb question, but is there like a specific Amish country you’re referring to? Or is it like anywhere that an amish community lives? I live in NE NC, like literally on the coastline, so not sure how far or close that is.
Not off the top of my head I don’t, but I do know a few people that drive and could get some help from them. Also I’ve seen some manufacturing websites have instructions on measuring for their specific harnesses.
LOL … not a dumb question. Around here, in the midwest, we call where the Amish live “Amish Country.” There are several areas where Amish live around me. I am not as familiar with NE NC so I am not sure where there are Amish around you.
I did a quick search for “Amish in NC” and found several places. They are tight knit community so I suspect that if you just go into a store that sells Amish goods they will be able to direct you to someone who makes harnesses.
Ah okay thank you! I’ll have to look around. I’ve heard Amish-made stuff is super high quality. Still deciding on whether I want a breast collar harness or the one with the collar. I hope to use her to pull some stuff like a small disc for the arena since the tractors can’t fit in there, but she’s mostly be used with like a buggy. I heard that if she’s pulling stuff for “work” she’ll need the actual collar not the breast collar.
You also want a ‘carriage harness’ not an Amish buggy harness. Lot of different style points between the two designs. If you plan to use the same harness when advancing from 2-wheel to a 4-wheel vehicle, you may need to list specific items needed when you buy a used or order a new harness. Things like a tree in the saddle to keep shaft weight off his spine is a MUST HAVE item. A good width to the saddle so it spreads out weight. The cute colored saddle pads really don’t help with weight, they squish or roll on his back with weight. Shaped breastcollar for easier breathing with a false martingale. Bridle with no checkrein and a noseband going all the way around his jaw. Reins that buckle into the bit, no snaps. Reins the proper width for your hands, in all brown leather, even if harness is black. Tug loops that buckle into a over girth, not wrap straps.
Full collar is an item that needs care in use and proper fitting. It will need Hames and traces to be used. You will need to use horse with full collar often, to get shoulders fit and toughened over time, stay toughened, for heavy loads. Shoulders can get ‘scalded’ with pressure, rubbing, in as short as 15 minutes of work. Skin will show wrinkles after collar removal, may or may not have hair and skin slough off some days later. Horse may need a second collar in another size as it gets more fit with work, so stay properly fitted as neck shape and size changes. Both neck, shoulders need to be VERY clean before putting on the collar. Collar itself must be kept very clean where it touches skin because any dirt or scurf will rub a hole in horse quickly. Proper collar size is very important, too big will rock on shoulders, too small will not lay down on shoulders properly. Width also is measured, not just length. This is why you see many draft horses at auction sold with his collar that fits him well.
I don’t intend to move from 2 wheel to 4. I do have a few questions about what you’ve said, however.
What’s the main difference between an Amish Buggy harness vs one I’d buy for pulling a 2 wheel? Why do the reins need to be brown leather? My horse likes to try and snag bites when working sometimes, so does the “no check rein” still apply? I definitely wouldn’t be using a bearing rein (if they’re considered check reins) but I would like something to keep her from tripping over herself when she just can’t resist a bite for some reason. She’s getting much better about it but old habits die hard.
Since you are in NC, you might want to check into Country Carriages to talk harness/vehicles (her’s look like yonies in the pictures, but if not, they are definitely well made and Claudette knows her stuff) or to Carolina Carriage Superstore to talk about vehicles (I’m not fond of their harnesses, but lots of 2 wheel vehicles if you are not in to CDE), it might be worth a day trip just to go talk and learn. Both are located between Greenville and Tryon
you can get a feel for the different types of harnesses, and although they do not let you buy a CDE harness direct, you can see all the options and pricing in the downloaded catalog. t’s a bit easier to see all the safety and better fitting improvements between the two styles
Thank you! I’ll look into Country Carriages and see what’s up :lol: This is a lot harder than I thought! Definitely not into any CDE. Might try it in the far future, but for now she’s just becoming a well-rounded mare haha.
sorry, CDE and pleasure harnesses are lumped into one, but they tell you which one is better for lots of driving versus a more casual approach!
But there are a lot of things on a CDE “type” harness that make a ton of sense, like a V breastcollar with adaptable draft, quick release tugs and so on. But yeah, I’m just getting back into driving and it is a LOT different from when I bought a “harness” and a “cart” 35 years ago!
Yonie’s catalog is fantastic, lots of options and great to work with.
You can always get both a neckcollar and breastcollar. The neckcollar is a must for heavy work and low lines of draft. the “variable line of draft” that some breastcollars have (I admit to having one) only works so far before the pressure starts activating the neck strap instead and ends up pulling down on it instead of putting pressure across the chest to pull.
I’m glad to hear you have someone on hand to assist.
A two wheeler, especially a forecart, puts shaft weight on the horse back. Horse needs the tree in harness saddle to keep shaft weight off his spinal bones. Forecasts work like a tractor, pulling the implement (drag or disc) attached to the rear, which can change the forecart balance on the shafts. Forecasts are notoriously shaft heavy when driven alone, lots of weight on the horse back. Lift the shafts yourself, hold them up where they would be in tug loops of harness, have someone step in and out of the forecart while holding on HARD so shafts don’t fly up!! This shows you what horse has to deal with as person moves on 2-wheeled vehicle. This is also interesting to do with any regular driving 2-wheeler, seeing how getting in, how you move on the seat will transmit to the horse.
Buggy harness made by many Amish is presumed for use with a 4-wheeler, NOT a 2-wheeler. So they can build the buggy harness lighter, often skip the tree. Saddle is narrower, often only 2 inches wide. Buggies or 4-wheelers only put shaft weight on horse, but those shafts are very light, not carrying carriage weight like a 2-Wheeler does. The hinge point between shafts and buggy changes what horse has to manage in moving his load. Horse never feels any change if passenger moves on seat or when getting in or out.
Check reins do not allow horse to lower head for body balance when moving his load. Forcing horse to hold head up while working, going uphill, will sore him up in that artificial body position. Our horse may put heads down below chest in heavy going, need to be able work body as needed to get places with the load behind them.
Suggestion is to practice ground driving over trimmed grasses, a driveway or ring area so there are no enticing bites. You could make a sidecheck/bearing rein, but fit it so horse can lower head deeply to the chest, yet still not reach grass. They are not cruel unless adjusted too tightly, like in Black Beauty, forcing head above what is normal… you will need 2 gag-runner buckles to carry the sidecheck rope or strap on the bridle. Sidecheck is more effective restraint than the overcheck type seen on Standardbred race horses. Carry a whip and touch horse with command to “walk ON” should he try reaching for grass. Moving right along helps prevent bad habits! Walk fast enough and to one side so you can see to stay off horse mouth with reins. Most folks walk too slow, reins are constantly gigging horse in the mouth until he totally ignores rein feel.
Brown reins are preferred so you don’t get black dye on your hands or clothing when it rains or horse sweats on the reins, and maybe you have sweaty hands…
