Easiest way to soak hay? And pasture access for the fat horse

What is the easiest way to soak hay?

Also what type of pasture is better for the fat horse? Short grass (to reduce intake) or longer grass ?

I have Bahia grass pastures and my rather easy keepers are looking a bit overweight. Currently they are on drylot during the day with hay in a slow feeder and turnout either overnight (10 pm to 6 am) or for a couple hours in the morning (on weekends). Trying to find the easiest way to manage them without them becoming blimps.

These are smaller pastures and I tend to strip graze them and then rotate turnouts.

Are you worried about laminitis or just weight gain?

Typically stressed growing grass has more sugar than mature grass, but I don’t know about Bahia, just cold climate grasses. But mature grass is easier to eat fast

In any case if you think the horses are getting fat then you need to reduce their overall forage intake either the pasture access or the hay.

Soaking hay will remove sugar but not necessarily lower the calories a lot.

What happens if you just rely on pasture and no hay?

I don’t think it is reasonable to have them in a drylot without some hay. Pastures are very hot and sunny in the day so I don’t really want them out in triple digit heat.

Ok didn’t read your first post carefully enough.

It sounds like the bulk of calories is from hay. How much are you feeding by weight? What kind?

If they mostly live on a dry lot with hay, then getting the hay intake reduced will reduce calories. A couple of hours grazing won’t add that many calories. Hay is super concentrated grass

Easy way… stuff small hole nets (like a Hay Chix one). Using a water trough and a laundry basket, fill the tub with water, sink the laundry basket and then the net. Push down to get it soaked and leave it. When ready, lift out the laundry basket to drain and then hang the net.

It’s recommended you do this on 1 net first and see how dark brown the water is. If it’s anything more than “weak tea colored,” dump, add fresh water and repeat the soak.

For the best information and guidance on when to allow grazing, Read all the goodies by Katy Watts www.safergrass.org

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Are you using a grazing muzzle when they are out?

If they must have access to hay while dry lotted then you most likely need to reduce what grass they can get by muzzle. I doubt soaking the hay is going to eliminate the need to reduce calorie intake. It sounds like they are just not candidates for food 24/7.

Horses can still get a lot of hay with a net and a lot of grass by muzzle when they can eat at either 24/7.

A big enough tub to hold the amount you want to soak. I have even seen an old bathtub being used. Plus a couple of large rocks or cinder blocks to weight down the hay.

As to your other question longer grass is better than shorter grass, I cut and pasted the following explanation. I’d choose a container with a drain plug so you don’t have to lift it to dump out the water.

Long grass contains less leaf material and therefore less nutritional value. Long grass also contains less sugar than short grass. Therefore, be careful with horses that are sensitive to laminitis, summer tickling or insulin resistance on short grass.

Re:soaking - My vet recommends the laundry basket in tub method. We just used clean muck tubs and hay nets to soak, worked fine. Very messy when removing. We always let them drain for 10-15 minutes before hanging. Be forewarned, you’re likely to get wet hanging the nets, at least at the beginning (at least we did!).

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For my easy keepers, I let them out on grass for about 3 hours just before I feed their ration balancer because they always come back to the barn for that. Otherwise, good luck catching my guys when they’ve been let out on grass.

My insulin resistant mare is out with a grazing muzzle so she has to be on short grass since muzzles don’t work with long grass. For the last three summers, she has not foundered with a few hours per day in short grass so I’m thinking the sugar content on short grass can’t be that much of a concern over short periods. I’ve also read all the literature on soaking hay but my observations were that my mini’s health was no different during the two years I soaked her hay. I eventually stopped doing it because it’s a huge pain and was making no apparent difference in her health.

I used to keep half my pastures short and half long. The horses picked up a lot of ticks (and Lymes disease) when the grass was long so now my horses never come into contact with long grass. Tick-borne diseases are a serious concern where I live.

I recommend reducing turnout time to about 3 hours per day. I once read that a study showed that a horse let out on pasture for 4 hours per day will eat as much grass as if they were out all day because they eat faster when they know they have less time. The study apparently found that turnout time of less than 4 hours is required to reduce grass intake. If possible, spreading hay in a thin layer throughout your dry lot will make the horses have to move more, and possibly eat less.

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For soaking I use a small hole hay net and a clean muck bucket.
Makes it easy.

On the turn out question, have you tried giving them access to the grass all the time to see if they actually eat less once they always have access?
I know that works for some horses, not all, but some.

Otherwise I say go with a grazing muzzle.

My easy keeper fjord goes out on a drylot with hay and I keep him in a green guard grazing muzzle so he doesn’t just inhale the hay. The muzzle slows him down but he has no trouble with getting hay through it. I don’t know if that’s any better than the slow feeder you have though.

I’ve also heard of people using a muzzle AND slow feeders successfully too but haven’t had to try that (knock on wood) yet.

My post is a repeat of others. I weigh the hay in a hay net. I put the hay net in a muck bucket and soak for an hour. When done, I can drain and flip the tub over until no more water and then lift out. If I’m feeling super dedicated or have lots of time, I may soak and drain a 2nd time. I turn my horse out in a green guard muzzle.

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I was going to say, can you not muzzle? I recently tried the Thinline Flexible Filly and that’s a very nice muzzle. And if you order the 2.5cm hole they can still get grass but not much.

My guy has a regular sized head and is in the cob size.

You can put a muzzle on a breakaway halter and have it be safer too.