Educate me about field fence

[TheJenners]

I’m not interested in brands of fence. I’m more interested in the meat-n-potatoes of what it means.

I’ve already decided on non-climb. Some I see have “square knots,” but others have “hinge joint knots.” Reading up on it, it says the hinge knots actually bounce back without deforming and go back to their original shape. I don’t see this sliding around on the horizontal wires without some significant force, but we all know wire fence never looks the same after a big hit. I understand gauge of wire, but how much/how important is going one up or down? Some are 10 gauge top and bottom with 12.5 for the insidey bits, others are all 12.5.

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

[QUOTE=TheJenners;8712452]
I’m not interested in brands of fence. I’m more interested in the meat-n-potatoes of what it means.

I’ve already decided on non-climb. Some I see have “square knots,” but others have “hinge joint knots.” Reading up on it, it says the hinge knots actually bounce back without deforming and go back to their original shape. I don’t see this sliding around on the horizontal wires without some significant force, but we all know wire fence never looks the same after a big hit. I understand gauge of wire, but how much/how important is going one up or down? Some are 10 gauge top and bottom with 12.5 for the insidey bits, others are all 12.5.[/QUOTE]

This explains it. http://www.horsefencing.org/horsefence/horse-field-fence.html

You want to prevent sagging with the knots you choose, imo. I’m glad I have the 10 gauge top and bottom. You are going to put a huge pressure on the fence to stretch it tight and it will stay under a lot of tension. There is no curling, or stretching out with the 10 gauge. The fence wants to bow more in the other areas (until it was tacked down). YMMV.

One thing to watch is the level of galvanization. That will affect fence longevity. I just went with normal Redbrand, but you may have other options available in your locale.

[scheherazadetbmare]

No climb is the way to go. And make sure that the fence is constructed with screws, not nails. With no climb you can go with one rail at the top.

[TheJenners]

TTP, what knots did you go with?

I’m going with class 3 galvanized for longevity, but found a screaming deal on fence that is all 12.5 gauge. As in, really hard to pass up. But if you think that would stretch, then I guess I’ll pass. I didn’t think about stress on the fence during installation, just animal-stress.

[Boo]

As long as a hoof/leg etc can’t get through it most of the knots don’t matter. If they can you will have a major disaster as generally the knots etc give and tighten when the horse fights the fence and then can ringbark the leg.

[Calvincrowe]

On an odd side note, we just found a dead rabbit caught in our no-climb fencing. :no: It apparently tried to get squeeze through it, but her pelvis couldn’t fit and she died. Slowly and not well.

Are you having it professionally installed? Getting no climb tight really requires know-how and the right tools and base to attach it. All wood posts for sure. And in our climate…those won’t last much past 7-8 years, IMO on our farmette.

[TheJenners]

The posts (4-5" rounds) will be professionally installed, but I’m doing the fence with experienced help.

Like I said, doing non climb. That’s 2x4 rectangles, horses can’t get a foot in there…

[goodhors]

Figure you STILL need to run electric inside to keep equines off woven wire all the time. Without electric on top, midway and perhaps one lower wire, they lean over it, fight over the top, rub on wire, maybe paw the bottom or actually step on fence to walk it down, rip it off the posts.

Your hard work, expensive wire looks pretty junky quite fast when animals can touch the woven wire fence.

You should plan to “hang” the woven wire so bottom is in the air. This allows for easy weed whacking to keep fences clean of weeds. Let’s your fences later longer, stay looking nice longer. That bottom space does allow dogs, goats, etc., places to get in with the horses, so you have to decide if raised or ground level will work best for you.

[Simkie]

Field fence and no climb are different things, and the terms can’t be used interchangeably

Totally agree with a line of hot on top!

I have this fence: http://www.staytuff.com/ They use a fixed knot per their site. NO issues with it at all…has been great stuff.

[crosscreeksh]

Anybody use “goat” fence??? It is like field fence, but the holes are all 4"x4". Opinions?? We put up field fence on the perimeter of a 40 acre pasture field. There will be top electric and no confinement of horses in the area. We’ll do 2x4 horse fence near the barns for safety. The “goat fence” is wayyyy cheaper than horse fence and we have a LOT of lines to do!!

[Horseychick87]

[QUOTE=crosscreeksh;8715827]
Anybody use “goat” fence??? It is like field fence, but the holes are all 4"x4". Opinions?? We put up field fence on the perimeter of a 40 acre pasture field. There will be top electric and no confinement of horses in the area. We’ll do 2x4 horse fence near the barns for safety. The “goat fence” is wayyyy cheaper than horse fence and we have a LOT of lines to do!![/QUOTE]

4x4 holes will allow a foot to go through, I’ve seen it happen and it’s not pretty when the horse struggles and injures itself. If you do go with goat fencing I’d probably run two to three strands of electric (one top, middle and towards the bottom if it were safe to do so) to keep the horses far away from it.
With lots of lines to do I’d maybe look into something like Electrobraid. I’ve seen good results with it and it can be made hot so no need for an extra expense of setting up a hot wire.

[TheJenners]

I’m not running any hot. They are on non-climb right now with a top rail of Centaur (I’ll do board unless I can find a Centaur dealer), no hot, no issues with fence. Donkeys and horses both, very respectful. :yes:

Simkie, which do you have of that brand? There are several. And I can’t find anything about gauge other than “stronger than 9 gauge.”

[ElementFarm]

we use Redbrand no climb with a top rail (no hot wire) for all our perimeter fencing. We like having it on the ground. 1st, I’d worry about a rolling horse getting a leg caught under it, if there was a gap, and also. the no climb keeps the coyotes out (and the dogs in) which is critical to me, with minis and foals.

[Simkie]

[QUOTE=TheJenners;8715947]
I’m not running any hot. They are on non-climb right now with a top rail of Centaur (I’ll do board unless I can find a Centaur dealer), no hot, no issues with fence. Donkeys and horses both, very respectful. :yes:

Simkie, which do you have of that brand? There are several. And I can’t find anything about gauge other than “stronger than 9 gauge.”[/QUOTE]

I have the 1348-3 with a top rail of centaur and a line of electrobraid on top for my perimeter. The guy who installed the fence is a dealer and while I was a little dubious about the 3" spacing, we’ve had ZERO problems with it and the fence has held up beautifully.

[TheJenners]

Thanks!

And yes I’m putting it on the ground. Above concerns about a hoof going thru, but also, I have donkeys and a horse that will also gleefully stomp a dog into mush. I have dogs, my neighbor has dogs. Not something I want to worry about :no:

[EAH]

I do not like no climb but if you use it get the kind that is not welded at the connections. I use v mesh fencing. It is stronger and easier to repair (but in contrast to no climb I have not had to repair it.

[EAH]

I have stockade panels in areas that have adult horses. It is not ideal but it was there when I bought the place. I have had no major issues. It is 4 x 4 inches open at the top but much smaller at the bottom. I see less concern with a foot through it since the wire is very large–1/4 in diameter so does not bend. The problem has been at the top and bottom where the wires that run vertically exit the panels for maybe 1/8 inch. I had a horse cut their chest when they jumped on top and another cut a leg near the hoof when they put the leg near the bottom. I solved the bottom issue by covering it all along the bottom with 1/2 inch PVC. the top is an issue as the panels are welded to 2,5 inch pipe. I have used plastic gutters to run along the top to protect against the sharp edges. Another way would be to grind but this would be a real pain.

[TheJenners]

I like your ingenuity though!

I’m not looking at any that are welded, all have some variation of a knot But very good point!