First time starting my own - where to start and things to know!

While I’ve ridden many very green horses and have loads of experience bringing a freshly started baby horse up, I’ve never started anything from the ground up! I just bought my new project, a 3 year old mare.

I’ve been working on haltering, leading, and other very basic things like brushing and being touched all over. My question is - what’s your typical process for starting a baby from the ground up? What are the most important pieces of groundwork you recommend? I want to make sure I’m not forgetting an important piece or missing something that I wouldn’t think of!

1 Like

My ‘typical’ process is always tailored to the personality, physical maturity, mental maturity and reactions of the horse. In addition to haltering, leading and allowing to be touched handled, I make sure that they will stand tied, stand in cross ties politely, learn to lunge (I don’t over do this), long line and thus understand whoa, go AND steering long before I get on them. I also will have tacked them up and worked them on the long lines so they become accustomed to wearing tack, the noises tack makes when moving, etc.Throughout this process I also expose them to as many different sights and sounds as is possible. If I have a horse I can pony off of I will pony babies on trails but if not, I will load babies on the trailer to go hang out at schooling shoes, lessons etc while I ride more advanced horses. I will hand walk babies out on trails. I have always had neighbors with young kids, motorcycles, ATVs, dogs, etc (and had my own) which I took advantage of in terms of getting young stock exposed to things that might rattle them. At the point where I think they’re ready to ‘graduate’ I’ll have someone hold them while I mount and dismount - this sometimes goes on for days eventually getting to the point where I’ll have someone lead me around, then I will just follow them steering from the saddle and then ride solo - usually if I put all the pieces together properly this part moves forward fairly quickly but for some especially overly reactive personalities I have to take this part slow. The most important thing to me is to listen to the horse and take the proper time to always set the day’s lesson up for a win-win for both sides. That may mean breaking things down and repeating very small steps forward over a longer period of time but you’ll advance much faster that way if you do. This is also how you build confidence in the horse and the relationship you have with the horse - and the horse will likely turn out to be a solid citizen for whatever it’s career ends up being.

4 Likes

Personally, my prerequisites before I get on is that the horse has to be able to move the hind end and forehand, be able to walk, trot, canter, halt from my voice, Back up, side pass, and be comfortable tacked up. They should be able flex their neck on each side from pressure with whatever your planning on using for your first few rides (snaffle, side pull, whatever). This is important because a one rein stop serves as my breaks for the first few rides.

Then I’ll practice sticking a foot in the stirrup and jumping until they’re comfortable with that. Then I’ll practice getting on. The first thing I do when I get on, is get off. This way the horse knows that I will eventually get off and that makes them relax. So I’ll practice getting on and getting off and they should stand still while I give them lots of rubs and maybe some treats.

Then I’ll ask for a flex from both reins but the horse should already know how to do this because of the ground work. Then I’ll add a bit of leg and ask the horse to move the hind end. Once we have that down, then I’ll work on going forward. This part is scary for babies and they mig be very resistant to moving forward not because they’re “stubborn” they just don’t know what you want. Sometimes it’s best to have a friend on the ground helping you in a round pen.

To go forward I will start by kind of lightly bumping with my calves or lightly tapping the hind end with a dressage whip and trying to just create momentum. I’d avoid squeezing because it makes them claustrophobic and they probably already feel that way. When he walks forward (direction doesn’t matter so don’t get picky) I stop. At first, be happy with a few steps. Then work on it more so that when the horse is walking forward you’re leaving him ALONE. So no leg, no clucking , no tapping, no steering, no contact as long as he’s walking forward. When he stops, bump with the calves, cluck, tap with your crop, whatever. Make walking forward relaxing, and stopping uncomfortable. When you have a calm, forward walk then you can do the same thing for a trot and a canter. For stopping, your horse should know “whoa” from your ground work but if things get bad you can use a one rein stop too.

Then I’ll work on steering. When I start to teach this, I’ll use a guiding rein and just ask for them to go in that general direction and then leave them alone. Start small with what you’re asking. Don’t steer the whole ride, steer for a few steps here and there and let him decide where he really wants to go.

The two biggest mistakes I think people make when they start babies is that 1) they get too picky. He’s not going to go collected, in the direction you want, or straight, just take what he gives you and ride what you get for now. The second biggest mistake I see is when people ride the same as if they’re riding a broke horse. You shouldn’t look like you’re going to win any equitation medals. When I’m doing a first ride my legs are off my horse with my heel almost braced down. My reins are loose, and when I eventually start steering, my hands are low but far out to steer because I’m trying to make it clear to them and not worried about looking pretty.

Good luck and most importantly, go slow. You don’t have to do all of that in a day or even in a week. If you do things right, you won’t have fireworks for your first rides. Think about only asking your horse do to things he pretty much already knows how to do if that makes sense.

3 Likes

I won’t spell out my process as I think the above posts cover basically everything that I do. I will say, the one thing that I underestimated was the emotional investment / interference of this being MY horse. I’d worked with plenty of greenies all at various stages (backing through early competition careers) but when it was now my horse and I was building my future competition partner…I suddenly started questioning all my decisions and second guessing my competencies (Am I holding the right contact on this lunge line?, did I give that praise a second too late?, Is this testing behavior or pain?)

I knew it would be different with my own horse than with others, but I underestimated how much of a mental / emotional game I would get sucked into.

1 Like

I also found I was second guessing myself at every turn as well with my personal horse! I think mine had more to do with the fact that I wasn’t in a training program while I was starting my personal horse. Everyone I talked to that I mentioned I had a mare I was starting myself people would lose their marbles and tell me how i shouldn’t be doing it myself as an amateur which in fairness I get, but also I grew up riding pretty much exclusively green horses and had a extensive colt starting background. Still, I even had one person tell me that I should send my baby to this 18 year old “cowboy” to start her. I should mention said “cowboy” was not actually a cowboy, but us ya teenager who wore a cowboy hat.

Here’s my super basic list:
Leading quietly at the end of a long line, and up with me.
Lunging and round penning softly at the walk/trot/canter.
Picking up all 4 feet with NO fuss.
Tying quietly.
Ground drive at the walk/trot, or long lining w/t/c.
Soft lateral flexion.
Yielding fore/hindquarters.
Obviously be able to wear a saddle and rope halter/side pull.
Quiet for the Jeffries Method.
Trailer loading quietly with NO fuss.
We also did a lot of hand walks down trails that she would later ride on, and down the road.

I swung my leg over my Rez Mustang filly after I did all of this. No bucking, 1 bolt, a couple spooks. Nothing horrible. She’s been under saddle October 30th 2019 to current and is now walk/trot with a 4 and 6 year old OFF the leadline. Foundation is so key! I spent a long time doing all of this, 2 years!! October 2017 to October 2019.

1 Like

The answer to your question, in a few words, is “what do you need to do on the ground to prepare them to be ridden?”

Beyond that, what specifics things you choose to teach and in what order will largely depend on what kind of knowledge you have.

Getting a horse truly, utterly halter broke is one of the most important foundational pieces people miss. Being able to get a halter on a horse is not enough. That horse should not only be okay being haltered, but willing participate. There should be no worry or concern about having any part of their body touched. They should be able to be led by the halter and lead, by a neck rope, by a ring rope around a foot. They should understand how to move forward freely and know without a doubt that the correct answer is always forward and NEVER backwards if they get concerned. They should have a start in understanding how to separate out using various parts of their body: I should be able to ask for a back up, a side step, an untrack of the inside hind, a step wide with a foreleg, etc all from the halter.

One of the things I do that I don’t see many folks doing anymore is using the ring rope around the girth line to help the horse understand what different pressures from the human’s leg might mean. It is immensely helpful to the horse to have some understanding of this already so when you go to get on it’s not quite so new.

Also, TYING. Teach your horse to tie and tie quietly. My experience has been that a young horse that will quietly tie is infinitely easier to start, my theory behind that being the horse has already learned to quiet their mind and accept being asked to be in one place without worry, which is a pretty important skill when you start asking them to be with you while riding.

1 Like

I agree that a horse that can tie will be easier to be started under saddle but i don’t agree that it’s BECAUSE they can tie, more that it’s just a side-effect of relaxation.

Also IMO, tying isn’t something specific that I “teach”. It kind of just happens again as a side effect of good training. I would never go take a baby and tie it just for the sake of teaching it to stand there. I’ll just work on other stuff and if I do my job right they’ll know how to stand quietly because they know how to relax.

I just think people make way too big of a fuss over making” their horse stand tie when it’s better to just wait until their emotionally mature enough to handle it.

2 Likes

I’ve just started my first as well. I got her late last year a 3ish yo who knew very little, really just the basics of leading. Didn’t really tie (in the first week she half flipped over when she panicked), although she did trailer well. Didn’t know how to pick up her feet etc.

I’ve found that going about everything in a very no fuss manner has worked well. You don’t want to stand still tied? That’s fine, I’ll keep doing what needs to be done and would you look at that, didn’t take long to figure out you may as well just stand! Don’t want to hold your foot up for more than a couple seconds? Also, fine, have it back then we try again and if it takes 5 tries to get the whole foot picked out, no big deal. Appropriate reassurance and/or discipline where needed of course, and 5 months in her ground manners are good. Not perfect, but good.

I’ve found “riding from the ground” to be immensely helpful. Dressage whip in the right hand to act as the right leg, and my body as the left. Especially helpful for teaching forwards and steering. I’ve been hand walking her on trails for exposure too, along with ponying off my other horse.

I didn’t get on until I was confident she was comfortable with the tack and voice commands. She learned to lunge, yield the fore and hind quarters.

I’ve been second guessing myself the whole way but luckily I’ve got some friends who’ve done it plenty and have been great sounding boards. I also have a local who does alot of breakers giving her one ride a week. Also knowing that if on a particular day, things just aren’t working, you’re off, the horse if off etc, there’s nothing wrong with leaving it on whatever good note you can get and coming back the next to try again.

1 Like

I don’t want to disrail the thread here, but the foot thing…got any pointers? I have a coming 2 gelding, he is fine with anything and everything touching his feet, he is fine with the cue for picking his feet up. But, I seem to be hitting a block on being able to hold his feet up. He gets that it is a good thing to pick his foot up. What he doesn’t get is that it is a good thing to hold it up, and trying to ‘win’ the war of keeping it up seems like a bad idea with him. (if only because he is big)
Is it just patience and release of pressure before he slams it down? (or with the hinds cow kicks?)
I’m a little stumped because he is so good at picking up cues for everything else, so it is a communication issue on my part I think.

1 Like

Patience mostly lol. She’s still not perfect, her right front in particular can still take more than one go to pick out, but every time she gets a trim the farrier comments on her improvements. Being able to pick his feet up easily is half the battle won. I’ll only try to hold on if its a small/gentle pull. If she’s really trying to slam it down then fine, she can have it back, rebalance and then I’ll pick it up again. And if I have to do that 10, 15, 20 times just to get the foot picked out then that’s ok. They’re too big and strong, 100lb me can’t win that fight! Farrier thinks the same way too. It’s taken time but I rarely can’t get each foot picked out in one go now.

This is where knowing how to use a rope around the feet comes in handy. Less chance you’ll get kicked or jerked hard.

You can use a soft cotton lead and put a loop in it, put the loop around the horse’s fetlock and snug it up just enough so it doesn’t move. Put some upward pressure on the food to ask the horse to pick it up and if he does so relaxed and quiet and doesn’t fuss, put it back down. If he fusses, hold it with the rope gently and allow him to fuss until he quiets, even for a moment, and put it back down. Build on this until the horse is willing to surrender all four feet with relaxation.

That rope is actually something I need to make sure he knows how to deal with anyway, he is eventually going to work as a logging horse, he has to be okay with the possibility of things wrapping around his feet.
As you note, it would let me work on the hinds in particular without thinking about the hoof coming at my kneecap each time he picks it up.
Patience, patience, and more patience. I can do that!

When using a soft cotton rope or any other around a horse’s leg to desensitize it, is best not to tie anything that won’t come loose.
That is a warning we generally give, as some have been known to fasten the rope too well and got in trouble.

We would double the rope, hold both ends in our hands and twist several times.
The rope then would stay if the horse moved around, but if things got wild, letting go would let the rope fall right off.

Most horses, if done well, learned right away, not pushed to the point of fighting the rope.
There can be the rare time unexpected strong reactions can happen with the best prepared horses.

Teaching hobbling also helps a horse understand things around it’s legs.

3 Likes

Added to all the above that there is no time table. You can go as slow as you want and take all the time you need to make sure you are both comfortable and confident in what you know before moving on to something else.

The biggest mistake in training is moving forward too fast. It always ends up in problems down the road.

1 Like