Fixing up a safe but used horse trailer - DIYers, help me out

A couple years ago I bought a 1994 Kingston TB Deluxe 2 horse bumper pull trailer. For the most part, it’s in fabulous shape. I’ve used it maybe 4-6 times each year to change barns, go for the occasional trail hack and a couple low key shows. This year I’ll be towing a lot more, taking several client horses to clinics and shows further away (think 3-4 hours one way for many of them).

I just dropped it off at a local trailer dealership to have them do an inspection on it and to see if they could do a few extra things for me. It pulls great but after taking a ride in the back of it to get the horse’s point of view, I realized how noisy it was back there. I want to have the dealership replace the door seals on the escape doors, top dutch doors and dressing room door to start, but I’m also trying to figure out what to do with the divider and butt bars.

I figured out that the divider causes a lot of the noise. It’s a wooden divider with nylon covered padding on top and a metal pin that secures to the floor. The floor pin has gotten warped over time and it no longer fits in the hole to secure it, so the butt bars do the “securing” when they are up. It’s a LOT of clanking around over anything but perfectly smooth asphalt (you’d have better luck finding a herd of unicorns where I live than finding smooth roads.) Has anyone ever straight up replaced butt bars? Or rubbed coated where the metal meets to minimize the noise?

I’m also thinking about completely swapping out the divider. It’s old, wooden and I’d be happier with no wood and no need to secure it to the floor. Anyone done this? Did you take one from another trailer, buy a new one from a trailer parts dealer, fabricated it yourself or had a metalworker fabricate you one? Please share.

Last thing I really want to do is take care of the interior rust. The trailer is a two-tone silver aluminum skin with navy accents on the steel frame, a pretty typical Kingston color combination from that time period. The navy is where there’s rust. I have the tools to buff it out, the problem is matching the color…no Rustoleum or similar product comes in the color I need! It’s always too bright and it would look like a patchwork quilt. Has anyone ever had a custom paint for this purpose made up? Where did you get it from? I’ve thought about auto dealers, paint stores, etc.

I will be asking the trailer dealership these questions too, but they are not a horse trailer dealership: they do mostly flat-bed trailers, snowmobile trailers, etc, but inspect and do work on horse trailers.

dip rubber coating for tools might work… available at the big box things

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-Di…03-6/202196703

also comes in gallons

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite…3A3hoC3ibw_wcB

clanter, that’s perfect. That I can do myself, so I’ll have to pick some up.

As far as paint, maybe contact Kingston to see if they can give you a color code for that year/color.

We got a spray can from a local automotive paint store (not this one, but you get the idea) so I could paint the stripes on a trailer to match our truck.

There are places that will mix you a custom automotive paint. I went to one many years ago for a motorcycle paint job. You might want to ask around at body shops for a recommendation.

I have used plastidip to quiet noisy parts, but just be aware the adhesion isn’t that great on parts that get a lot of movement (like where a butt bar hinges against the wall). It’s cheap enough that it’s easy to redo.

My divider that was free swinging and supported by the button bars was actually noisier than one that secures to the floor. I ended up using pipe insulation to keep it from contacting the butt bars and that quieted it somewhat.

I wonder if a double coating would help. Apply the first coat let dry to t e point of being tacky, then wrap with the area with gauze or similar product then recoat. … I haven’t do this but was just thinking how to reinforce the product…where’s Tom King when needed??

It probably wouldn’t do so well sprayed over a gauze type thing - what might work, however, is the paintable sound dampener material (like Lizardskin) used to reduce vibration in cars. It’s not cheap, though.

I have some areas on my new trailer to protect from banging and clips and things like that, I am going to try an Eastwood product called Elastiwrap which is supposed to be thicker than Plastidip.

Well, I got the color code from Kingston, so the paint won’t be an issue.

I would really like to replace the divider entirely if I can so that it doesn’t even come down to the floor, but finding a new divider is virtually impossible. Either I get one made for me by a welder friend, or I go DIY one the current one…has anyone ever done this? It may influence what I do regarding the butt bars…

I just repainted my trailer by hand. the hardware store will match paint here so was able to get a very close color match.

My old two horse I had the divider removed and had a new one made. I find that if you have someone make one it is easier then trying to fit one in that wasn’t made for the trailer. Also you get what you want.

OP, can you please send me the color code? I have the same trailer as you, but mine is a '96. I have the same issue with some spots on the roof looking rusty and needing to be repainted! Great trailer though, I’ve had mine several years and LOVE it :slight_smile:

Adhesion depends on how well you prepare the surface you want the product to adhere to. Use the primer and follow instructions.
https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/