Flank cinch questions.

[Mustang]

Sorry, but I’m not sure where it would be best to post this. :o

What are good things to look for in a flank cinch?

I prefer a lined/padded cinch, is it ok to also choose that for the back cinch, or should it actually be unlined/not padded?

Is it best to use one that is streamlined, or one that is broader?

This is for an Aussie saddle, not a Western.

Thank you!

[Ambitious_Kate]

You might get better responses in the trails section, since folks there would be using these saddles.

[jawa]

The only experience I have with a flank cinch is that if you were to tighten it on a certain pony, she would buck. And then my cousin and I could play rodeo. Oh, the things we did unsupervised as kids!!!

[Pat9]

Flank cinches for general use are always smooth leather and must have the link strap so that they don’t go back where they don’t belong. Why not consider getting an Aussie saddle that is center-fire rigged or 3/4 and dispense with the extra tack? There is only one reason for rear cinches, and that is to keep the back of the saddle down when you are roping and either tying hard and fast or dallying to the horn. That is it. You are not going to be doing that with an Aussie saddle. They don’t have the tree to stand up to heavy roping in most cases (I’d say all, but I don’t know that for sure). Over the years many stock saddles have been made with the double cinches, and if you leave the rear cinch off of a 7/8 rigged saddle, you can balance in your stirrups and literally pick the rear of the saddle off of the back of your horse. There are some mule riggings that have two tie cinches instead of one tie cinch and one buckle cinch, and if you had a very problematic horse to fit, that is a possible set-up, but I think that’s way beyond your need level. I like a drop-plate center fire rigging, with the cinch attachment set down about half way down the side of the horse’s barrel. A set-up like this wraps around the horse instead of just strapping a saddle on the top of the mountain and hoping it stays there. And if you’re dead set on a double cinch rig, the rear cinch can be any width you like. Since it is strictly an ornament until you pick up a rope, it doesn’t matter.

[Mustang]

Thanks! It’s more or less just me being obsessive about my tack. I purchased a nice saddle recently that has the billet straps for the flank cinch, but not the cinch, so I was going to round that out. I’ll just set the billet straps aside though, I think.

[NoSuchPerson]

Actually, if a saddle is truly rigged for a flank cinch, you ought to use one. However, since yours is an Aussie saddle, I don’t know if your saddle is actually rigged to depend on the rear cinch for proper fit or if it was just tossed on as an affectation.

For trail riding, especially in rough, hilly country, a flank cinch serves the very useful purpose of helping to keep your saddle in place. If I use a double rigged saddle, I use a “front” cinch instead of the plain leather flank cinch that you commonly see because it just seems to me that it will be more comfortable since I fasten it tightly.

Check out this older discussion: http://www.chronofhorse.com/forum/showthread.php?398069-Back-cinch-on-western-saddle where you will find this nice post from cowboymom:

A double rigged saddle without a functional back cinch is like a suitcase with only one side buckled.

The front cinch snugs the front of the saddle but the saddle is designed to have a back cinch stabilizing the back of the saddle, not just when a cow hits the end of the rope but when you’re trotting, turning, backing, walking down hills, trotting up hills, ect.

You’re not doing your horse any favors to skip the back cinch or to leave it flopping out there in the wind either. And ours are tighter than just touching, not as tight as the front cinch but not lightly touching either. It’s meant to secure the saddle; if it’s loose it’s like wearing sneakers with no shoelaces and it will sore up a horse.

[Mustang]

Interesting. Thank you. I do not think it’s dependent, truly. It has good rigging. However, I do see where it would be good for endurance/trail riding, but we are a ways away from anything intense(she’s still very green). I think I will just have a good look about at my options, between now and then. I admit I was wondering about using a “more comfortable front cinch”, and placing my own join strap between the two (I’m not certain of the proper name, but the leather strap the connects the front cinch to the rear cinch, to prevent slippage).

Thank you again, everyone!

[kaitsmom]

If the horse is green you may want to introduce the flank cinch just for the purpose of being able to use it later if you want. When you add it lunge a lot so horse gets used to the feel. Make sure it is not really loose, but it doesn’t need to be super snug either.

[Mtn_trails]

I always use a flank cinch because when you’re riding down a steep hill the saddle might tip over and dump you. My horse isn’t fully dressed without it. Mine is not padded but is about 5 inches wide or so and I keep it snugged up against his belly as it’s pretty useless otherwise.

[Pat9]

That is the beauty of a center-rigged saddle - a more stable rig and it isn’t in the horse’s armpits, either. I’ve never had a saddle tilt so much that it wanted to tip me out when I was riding without a rear cinch, and we’ve been in some steep country. It just depends on design of saddle and structure of horse, I guess. I’ve left it off to save weight and time in the past.
OP, the connector strap between girth and rear girth can be called a link, too, and it’s an absolute necessity if you are riding a double rig. It’s just as essential as anchoring your saddlebags very well (have seen a couple of greenies just use one grommet on each side, only to discover that their equally green horse didn’t appreciate the flopping when they began to move out of the walk).