Is Flex-Seal safe to use in potable water on a galvanized water trough for horses? TIA
I’m not familiar with Flex-Seal, but I use WaterWeld for everything at work (hey, our aluminum boats hit a lot of rocks) and it is epically awesome. If it’s a big hole, I coat it with epoxy just because I’m an over fixer. I can fix a boat hole WHILE THE BOAT IS IN THE WATER and the WaterWeld will still set. It’s magic…
And yes, it is safe for potable water. After about an hour you can even sand and paint it if you want it pretty. Or if you are like me and are too busy to give a crap, just leave the lump, it adds character.
We fixed our leaking tank seam with JB Weld, also an epoxy type thing. It was what everyone recommended to me for leaky things. Husband did find the seam had a lot of weld spatter when it was originally welded. Spatter is what made the poor weld in the first place. He took that spatter off with a wire brush (hand or drill mounted works fine) so he had flat surfaces to put the JB Weld on, clamped tightly shut between flat boards to dry, which sealed leak up tight. Water tank has been back in operation with no leaking.
there are several flexible sealants for aquariums…those have to be potable water safe to keep from killing the fish
All of the big box home improvement stores carry one or more in squeeze tubes or cartridges for caulking guns
[QUOTE=goodhors;7390680]
We fixed our leaking tank seam with JB Weld, also an epoxy type thing. [/QUOTE]
JB Weld makes WaterWeld, FYI.
Thanks so much~!
[QUOTE=wildlifer;7393619]
JB Weld makes WaterWeld, FYI.[/QUOTE]
Well thanks for that information. I didn’t have a clue!
This is the first leaky seam on a galvanized tank that we ever had to fix. Those tanks last forever.
Personally I have found the galvanized tanks I can get around here to be of poor quality. Especially the ones from Tractor Supply. The tend to start rusting in a season or two. After a couple of years the bottom of several tanks devolved pin holes in them. Thought it was around the seems but still leaked after addressing that.
Turned them over looking through the bottom into the sun and was amazed at how many tiny pin holes they had. I used Flex Seal or a like product, several coats did the trick. Start by spaying the seams a couple of times. Let dry and then the rest of the tank. IMO no worries about water contamination. To each their own on this
To fix larger seam leaks I use a “caulk” product used for sealing window, doors and siding called OSI-QUAD. If the seam is flexing or maybe subject to stress or you just want extra strength I would use another “caulking” product made by Loctite,
PL- Premium construction adhesive. This stuff sets up almost as strong as an epoxy but is somewhat flexible. Great stuff and can be used for many others things then what it is marketed for. And you don’t have to “mix it” like epoxy. Used it to glue the welt and sole back on to a favorite pair of boots that I was told couldn’t be fixed. Have several winter months on them so far. I am also a big fan of JB Weld products.
I got rid of all of our galvanized stock tanks anyway. I find the Rubbermaid tanks to be far more durable and easier to work with. They have larger drain plugs then the galvanized we can get. Makes it a lot easier to deal with heaters. They don’t rust and don’t get dinged up and always look good.
Never had it happened but I have heard of a horse getting its lip stuck/frozen to the side of a galvanized on a subzero day we get from time to time. They are not going to wait around for someone to free them. Instead a hunk of skin is ripped off. Don’t need anything more to deal with then necessary. This maybe a “rural myth” but cheap and easy to eliminate.
