Frost-Free hydrant - handle takes max effort to pull up

Bear with me here as I try to describe the problem: we have a frost-free hydrant by the main door of the barn. The handle, in the past few days of this cold weather, is nearly impossible to lift up to get the water to flow. My query: is it frozen? If so, how to remedy? If we pull with all our might, we get it to come up and water comes out, per normal.

Some history: I was told that the handle did stick like this a winter or so ago, and a part had to be replaced. I am also concerned that this extreme force on the handle is only further damaging the hydrant. Possible?

Thank You!

Yes, it’s frozen, and yes, you can damage by trying to force it. Do you have a pipe heater tape? It might help you melt it out to be able to use it if you are desperate and don’t have another water source.

There might be an interior leak and it is frozen. Agree with the pipe heater tape.

There are not a lot of moving parts, not a lot of “parts” in general to a hydrant. The handle “hinge” should be oiled/greased periodically. As should the rod that is attached to the hand when the hydrant has been opened. This rod passes through a rubber “O ring” seal. Which keep seals around the rod keeping water from coming out. The O ring seal can and does dry out over time it is a “wear part” that is replaceable. A small amount of water can get between the rod and seal when opened. When closed it can and does freeze to the rod which can and does make it hard to open. I use petroleum jelly or grease and coat the rod when it is opened. And then open and close it to work the lubricant into the joint. Do not use silicone spray this can and does breakdown rubber.

If the above doesn’t solve the problem there’s really only one other reason that I can think of. You don’t give you location which really help with just about all questions on the forum. But especially in this forum. Geographic location, weather has a lot to do with things and possible answers, suggestions.

I assume you are have having colder than normal temps like a lot of the country? When the hydrant is turned off the water left in the riser pipe has to drain out of the bottom just above the bottom “valve” that the rod is attached to. If it is slow draining and the hydrant was not buried deep enough good chance due to very cold temps there is some water left at the bottom that is freezing before all of it drains out.

Question; After you get it open and the water runs normally. Does the handle open and close normally? If so most likely you have a slow draining situation and there is some water freezing at the bottom. Good chance this will only get worse depending on temps and how long they stay subfreezing.

I don’t think wrapping he exposed pipe with heat tape will do much. It doesn’t get that hot. If water is freezing at the bottom due to slow draining. I doubt heat tape will heat the pipe enough below grade to melt this. A good torch held just above the grade (dirt) may, should heat the pipe all the way down to the bottom. It didn’t on a hydrant I had a freeze issue with. Might be worth a try.

You can buy some non poisonous antifreeze put it in a squeeze bottle with some tubing on the end so you can squirt a couple of ounces of it into the hydrant after each use until your temp return to normal. Just flush it out before filling buckets, tubs, etc.

There is a product that diary farmers use on their frozen hydrants. Can’t think of the name. Do a search or someone or someone around here may know what I am talking about.

I would start with lubing the handle and rod first and hope that fixes the problem.

OP, Everyone that starts a discussion. Please TAG your thread so others can find it when doing a search. LOTS of common farm/horse problems, issues come up all the time. And are repeatedly addressed.

doesn’t take much water to freeze to restrict movement. I demonstrated this to an engineer who was reluctant to add a lubricant to a threaded shaft. Without a poly grease on this threaded shaft condensation could from in the threads. With Mr Engineer watching I took a production shaft adding a half of a drop of water from an eyedropper onto the shaft then put the shaft with the cam on it in the freezer for fifteen minutes… took it out and ask hm to move the cam down the threaded shaft… which was impossible. Then he put the shaft in a vise and took vise grips and still could not move the cam.

Took same shaft and cam, heated to room temp, added one drop of oil to the threads and ran the cam up and down the shaft then added the half of drop of water and repeated the 15 minutes in the freezer… upon removal cam could be easily run up/down the threaded shaft.

Engineer changed the production assembly sheet then

Thank you for the replies!

I am located in the Northeast, and suffering this Arctic blast.

So, if I am hearing everyone: the handle being so difficult to move is NOT normal and seems to be indicating freezing somewhere in the shaft (or maybe, as Gumtree has put fwd, the shaft moved by the handle needs lubrication). I will say that this handle, since the summer, has been feeling looser and looser and “easier” to pull up. I am leaning toward the freezing somewhere — the handle, when pulled up/on, often dribbles water. In general, this handle gets a lot of use in the course of the day — someone once said, upon seeing how much action it got, that these types of hydrants aren’t really designed for this much open/shutting.

I am pretty sure the dairy product gumtree is thinking of is Keto-Aid, used to treat ketosis in cows.
We have also found it is not a good idea to run a small amount of water from a frost hydrant in very cold weather. Need to run at least 20-30 gallons to let the flowing water slightly warm the pipe so it will not let water draining down freeze before it all drains away.

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Basically yes. There only 2 places something can freeze “somewhere on” the shaft. At the top (see pictures) where the shaft passes through the rubber O ring seal. Because the shaft, O ring seal will have/get a film of water on it. So when it is closed the shaft will freeze to the O ring seal. Clanter explained perfectly how much “gluing” power, super glue a thin film of frozen water can and does have. Especially to a rubber O ring seal. As I said the O ring seal is a wear part. It will need replacing at some point in time. Usually starts to show signs when some water can be seen “sweating” of of the top. It will develop into dribble. Especially in the winter because rubber contracts in the cold. And water will seep out when in operation. This is what took down the Space Shuttle in the 80s after taking off. Except it wasn’t water leaking through the giant O ring seals due to cold weather that fateful morning.

The only other place the shaft can “freeze” is at the bottom seal/valve. As I tried to explain in my previous comment. The “play-sloppy” loose handle will have little effect on the operation by and large. Hydrant are a very simple design and built to fit a price model. Some are made better than others. But the design is pretty much the same regardless. IMO simple in design because most likely they weren’t designed by "Engineers’’. Who always seem to make thing much more complicated than needed. Most likely designed by a MacGyver farmer. We like to keep things simple, less moving parts to break.

The first picture is of a closed hydrant. The O ring seal is under the nut that the rod/shaft passes through. To replace you have to take off the rod connector, this one has a screw adjustment. Some have a compression screw clamp. Then you take a wrench remove the nut and remove the O ring seal. Take that to a hardware store and have them size it too a new one.

The second picture is an opened hydrant. The rod/shaft is about an inch higher than the closed position. The brass is a bit brighter. You should grease the entire shaft to the bottom of the nut. Open and close it to work the grease into the joint, O ring seal.

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I have heard that some hydrants are better than others. For example, a hydrant with the word IOWA on it, is rated for the colder temps that occur in our state. Whether that is true or not I don’t know. Both my hydrants are stiff to begin with, the Petroleum Jelly sounds like a good idea.

What about WD 40 ??

From time to time I spray WD40 on the “moveable” parts of my interior and exterior frost free hydrants. If I plan on using the exterior one I put a bucket on it to keep rain/sleet/snow off of it. During this cold snap (going to -4F tonight) I have an infrared heat lamp on the handle of the hydrant in the barn which is the only one I’m using now.

WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That’s the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product back in 1953…

In1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry.

Working in a small lab in San Diego, California, it took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40[SUB]®[/SUB] -which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.

Convair, an aerospace contractor, first used WD-40[SUB]®[/SUB] to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. The product actually worked so well that several employees snuck some WD-40[SUB]®[/SUB] cans out of the plant to use at home

https://www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/history

here is a version of WD 40 that is no drip that may work better than the regular standard WD40

SPRAY & STAY GEL LUBRICANT NO-DRIP FORMULA

https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/spray-gel/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIusGi-6C32AIVBp7ACh3ZRQArEAAYASAAEgJdpvD_BwE

Back in my yachting days we avoided WD-40 for a lot of things because it tends to attract dirt and get gunky. Boeshield comes to mind. It was a lot more expensive but it coated the surfaces and lubricated better. WD-40 was good for getting through the rust when things need to be freed up.

Just use a hair dryer for about a minute right where the rod is. If it’s just the handle that is frozen it will work. I have to do it every day in this weather.

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