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Gooseneck Trailer Newbie

Hello folks! Im brand new here, so apologies if this isnt the right catagory. I usually browse this website to read answered questions but today I have one of my own, so I made my very own account.

Me and my folks have had a 2014 Titan 2H Bumper Pull for about 3 years now, and with all things, life gets expensive. We bought it for 9k, and are planning to sell for about 7.5k as its only got a few rides under its belt. We wanted to go with something cheaper, and I found a pretty good deal on facebook marketplace. a 1996 Tru-Trail 2H Gooseneck with a small little finished Weekender, complete with AC/Heat, Fridge, Microwave, counterspace, rear tack, all the goods. It has small surface rust here and there, but still looks amazing for its age, in my own opinion. Nothing a little TLC cant fix! I just graduated Highschool, I want to travel with my horse and rodeo and show as much as possible now. I figured this was perfect, something to sleep in and avoid those expensive hotel costs for shows.

I guess I have a few questions, if yall could please help me out!

1.) They’re asking 3k for the trailer, I was wondering if this “sounds-too-good-to-be-true” or if its a good deal.

2.) The trailer weight is aprox 6000lb, and I know my half ton 2014 Silverado with tow package could handle it, but i’d still love some reassurance. I only have one horse, and I plan to take out some of the extra cabinet weight out of the Weekender. Does anyone else tow around the same weight with problems?

3.) What are some questions I should ask the seller? Im completely new to Goose neck trailers.

4.) How long is too long? As a “never-before-gooseneck-puller”, this trailer is 18-19’ foot length and 24’ total. Is this a suitable length for a beginner? Is it hard to pull around tight shows/park and does it give you anxiety?

5.) Has anyone had experience with the Tru-Trail Brand? I want something reliable, not a brand infamous for being a rust bucket. :no:


I'll link the pictures to the trailer and please give me as much feedback/opinions as possible. I really appreciate it! <3
If you need more info about anything please ask! I've probably forgotten to add quite a bit. :lol:

![36735814_10211592754590584_9207248459042652160_n.jpg|210x280](upload://40LxpLTL2eHANVZdUO2CmdXtyZG.jpeg)



![36745646_10211592737390154_3781423957702344704_n.jpg|210x280](upload://aJ6fswLsJSdGGVBWYMUOZr1dMJW.jpeg)



![36758137_10211592752950543_3262799011668557824_n.jpg|210x280](upload://4OOGUAOhHytqKgHcsvMqGlcy59Q.jpeg)



![36817146_10211593745335352_9145310039882334208_n (1).jpg|210x280](upload://pmyAwKZvLl4rCTXFYNy3oqdtcAm.jpeg)



![36859537_10211592746830390_4653643218934562816_n.jpg|210x280](upload://rqKg7FEejGmJiwdoeE2dKDNKjsH.jpeg)

I have been towing for a long time, started out with a bumper pull and went to goosenecks over 20 years ago. I would not recommend towing that trailer with a half ton truck. Even if you pull cabinets out of it, you will be pushing the limits on a half ton.

In addition to the weight of the trailer you also have to take into account the horse, feed, hay, any water, tack, contents of the LQ, as well as that of the truck including fuel. It adds up much quicker than you expect.

Everyone thinks a half ton will pull fine until you hit hills, or have a transmission or brake issue. I have had two major brake issues when towing, and was thankful each time I had more truck than I needed. One, the plug pulled out and was drug and destroyed. Totally my fault, and I was 100 miles away from home on a Sunday, when nothing was open. Two, was away on a camping trip and the brake box in the truck totally failed.

For me, I always fail on the side of safety- the safety of me, my horse and the other people out there on the road.

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@cutter99 Yeah I definitely know! I wouldnt want to push the limit at all, and apparently the towing capacity is about 9-11k for my type of truck. I just wanted to make sure it would pull up hills and all, I guess i’d just have to try it out and see. Would hate to damage my truck! :cry:

You will also want to check trailer clearance of the truck bed sides. Older goosenecks come lower than newer trailers because older pickups rode lower than new trucks do, even if not 4WD. I know a number of folks who had to get new trailers because the old trailer was only an inch or two above new truck bed sides. A bump in the road, rise into the gas station driveway, will crush the bed as trailer comes down on it.

I don’t think you have enough truck for this trailer. How big is the engine in your truck? As mentioned, you have to consider ALL the weight inside trailer and truck, people riding along, tack, horses and so on. You have to keep up with traffic on hills, blending into traffic at speed on expressways, hauling that load. You also need to be able to STOP that load if trailer brakes fail you. Not easy when trailer outweighs the truck by so much. I really believe in having more truck than needed, ready for worst case scenarios to stay alive.

As with other stuff the truck manufacturer says, towing weight limit is not always a good measure to use with horses being “live weight” so they CAN seriously affect the tow vehicle when throwing their high-up weight around. You can’t tie horses in place like a stack of lumber on a trailer, they move as they need to. Better to be a LOT less weight behind to control, instead of being the maxed out weight for your truck.

Understand completely! It’s a pretty small trailer, even though it’s steel, it seems to be a bit off. Going to weigh it myself and ask some mechanics. I have a v8.

There are a LOT of trailer sale scams on Facebook and craigslist. At such a low price I would be very suspicious…

1 Like

so - I’m not an expert but my DH’s truck is a half ton rated for 10.5K lbs and I would not ever pull my 2 horse LQ trailer with it. The 1 ton truck we have sits down a lot when the weight of the trailer comes down on the hitch and it’s built for hauling. The 1/2 ton - I’d afraid we’d bottom it or the front end would get so light I’d have control issues.

So I’d ask tongue weight - loaded w/ water, etc and then consider the bed weight hauling capacity of your truck - it’s not just the tow weight. Also, bed length of the truck is important for clearance. A short box has issues…

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What year is your truck? What engine and rear axle ratio?

If you’re considering a gooseneck, don’t forget to add in the cost of installing a gooseneck ball in the bed of the truck, if it doesn’t already have one. Having it done professionally will be about $1000.

I’d also hesitate on a 1/2 ton truck, but you’d need more info to know for sure.

I don’t think the length is too long for a newbie. I just made the switch from 2H BP to 2+1 gooseneck about a year and a half ago. My trailer is 16’ on the floor, and I have not had trouble adjusting to its length or getting it through gates or anything. The difference in backing and turning it IS something you have to get used to. A gooseneck will not track in the same tire tracks as your truck like a BP will. It will cut the corners, so you have to take your truck wider on tighter turns, so that there is enough clearance for your trailer not to take out a fence post, curb, or mailbox. Luckily, I have not learned this the hard way, but it’s always something to be mindful of.

No way in hell I’d tow a gooseneck with my half-ton. There are reasons why 1/2 tons and 3/4 tons, etc. are built. This is one of them.

I would’ve towed a gooseneck with my 3/4 ton without hesitation - there was a huge difference between my two trucks when it came to towing and you could feel it. They had the same engine but that’s it - a lot more goes into a heavy-duty truck than you realize.

Many people think because their trailer can tow a certain amount then a gooseneck would be fine. BUT they aren’t taking into consideration the weight you are dropping into the bed of the truck with that hitch. Think of the axles and what that weight is doing. There have been plenty of topics discussing what trucks can and can not pull and how to do the calculations. I’d highly suggest you do a search.

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The weekender package will feel to your truck like a lot more weight in the bed than if you had the same length trailer without the LQ stuff. There’s also a real concern about the height versus the height of your truck bed (assuming the truck is not all that old). Finally, with any surface rust, you’re going to want to get a very good inspection done of that trailer to make sure the underside is not rusted and the floors are in good shape (or reasonably fixable).

With the proper tow package, I’d have no problems towing a bumper pull with your truck. I would not tow a gooseneck, and especially not one with any kind of LQ. Plus, you’ll have to put the right kind of hitch on (getting a B&W ball put into my truck was something like $400-500 I think?), you might need to add airbags even if it can otherwise handle the weight, etc.

If you were proficient at driving the bumper pull, you could learn to drive a GN this size. Other things I’d consider about that is what your driveway and parking is like. You will need more room to maneuver, including turning into and out of your driveway.

3K is a ridiculously good price for a two horse gooseneck with living quarters. I don’t know if that makes it a scam or your lucky day.

The length shouldn’t give you a problem. I don’t know the brand.

I’d wonder if the weight was accurate because it would matter quite a lot to you. Note that at best it would be dry weight, and water is heavy, if you are going to use the amenities.

Most likely it needs new tires, and of course you’d want to do a really good rust inspection of the underside.

A blast from my past! How fun! Glad you posted that! I sold some of their trailers…

Tru Trail Trailers were built in Lawton OK, I actually went to the “factory” back in the day… It was a very small family owned shop that turned out a couple of trailers a week. The son took over from the father, they closed down sometime around 1998 or so…… It was a very entry level single wall steel trailer…

What state is that trailer in??? For $3000 what else could you get? Not much…

Get it weighed and have it looked at by a competent shop or welder, have the trailer wheels pulled and check the brakes, bearings etc… Make sure the tires are not older than about 4 years, I think the empty weight would have been about 4k without the cabinets.

Look up your truck and see what the capacity is, empty tongue weight on that with out the cabinets and level would have been about 1k. If it is still in good shape structurally and it works for you and your horse that is what matters
Risa
HappyTrailsTrailers. com
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