Hi all! I am going to be starting a grooming position at a private client show barn. (For VERY nice people. Great boss. I am not scared 
)
Anyone have any tips or tricks?? Whether it is getting that pony extra shiny or cleaning stalls, I want the advice!!! Would also appreciate the things that are religious practices everyone does, but they may never talk about it. TIA!!!
Your best skill will be that of observation. That will help you with the horses, of course, as you learn their normal and learn to identify when they’re not at their best. But everyone has their own way of doing things, and if you are able to look around and pick that up instead of being told, you will find it faster to get in harmony with the work and the routine.
Example: there are a thousand ways to fold blankets. I fold my horse’s blankets my way. The staff at his boarding barn fold the school horse rugs the barn’s way, because those rugs have the farm logo on them, and the barn’s way has the rugs folded so that the logo faces out towards the aisle. Either way results in a neatly-folded blanket put away on the bar, but they have their way for a reason.
For everything else, there’s rubbing alcohol and a pile of towels. 
Ditto on being observant.
When stall cleaning, you have three variables. You can pick two. A stall can be meticulously clean. it can be done quickly. It can be done with throwing away the least amount of shavings possible.
You can’t do all 3. Ask the barn manager what their priority is.
For instance; a racehorse breeding barn has to clean 100 stalls a day and they must be very clean. So they strip the stall completely every day; it takes about 3-5 minutes to do one.
A cheap boarding barn wants to save money and time; so the staff does a quick pick of each stall, but it’s not very thorough.
A owner with one horse wants to save money and have a clean stall, but time isn’t a huge factor. It takes her 20 minutes to clean her one stall.
If you are tacking up horses, cleaning tack, etc, hang everything up folded, figure 8 the bridles, etc. even if the owners don’t. On that note, they may not have you clean the tack every ride, but wipe the bit down.
A can of aerosol coconut oil is really useful for getting shiny tails and hooves. You can use a light dusting on the coat too without making it slippery.
Never be idle. There’s always something to do. Clean water buckets, sweep the isle, fold blankets.
Familiarize yourself with any machinery you will be driving. Look up how to operate the UTV. Watch a video on the type of tractor they have. You never know when they will need you to operate that sort of stuff, and if you have some knowledge beforehand you feel less like an idiot the first time you use their machinery 
If they show, look up how to braid and start practicing. It’s a really useful skill for any groom.
And lastly, never, ever be afraid to walk away. The grooming business is a business where they pay you to use your body. If you ever feel unsafe, leave.
Curry curry curry. Even if there is no visible dirt I curry my horse all over when I groom him. He enjoys it and it really brings up that shine .
These are a few time-saving tricks that will not compromise quality.
Pick out the horse’s feet before taking out of the stall (or out of turn-out). This will keep the cross-ties so much cleaner and reduce having to sweep after Every Single Horse.
Apply tail detangler at the start of your grooming session. By the time you tack up, your hands will no longer be slippery.
After cleaning a bridle when you’re getting it ready to be hung, put the throat latch and the noseband through the keepers only (not the whole buckle). Then when you need the bridle, you just have to pull the straps through the keepers instead of undoing the buckles.
You can never have too many towels. If the barn doesn’t have massive amounts, pick up a package of small white towels at CostCo. The package is big, the towels are small. It helps to run them through the wash before using them for the first time.
A 50/50 combination of alcohol and liniment is excellent for removing sweat when you can’t hose off the horse. I think (and I could be wrong!) that the mixture is kinder to the coat than straight alcohol.
If the horses are in dusty turn-outs, a vacuum will be your best friend. Advocate for one if the barn doesn’t already own one. Just remember, vacuuming doesn’t replace currying and brushing.
I could go on and on… Have fun and good luck!!
Others have already mentioned most of my top tips:
Curry. Don’t underestimate the value of properly currying your horses. It’s great for their coats, most horses enjoy it and it will help you get to know them a bit better, and it’s a good time to spot that tiny rub or cut before it becomes a bigger issue.
Buy a bunch of cheap hoof picks and hang them on the halter racks out side of the stalls or use snaps to clip them to the stall fronts. That way, they’re always there for you to pick feet before you take the horses out.
Poop spray is your friend. Especially if you have grey horses in the barn. It’s just an alcohol spray bottle with a dab of quick silver mixed in, but you can spot clean grey horses or white legs with that and a towel and not have to bath horses before they’re ridden. And the alcohol evaporates quickly, so they won’t be wet either.
Wash saddle pads, boots, and blankets as much as possible. This helps reduce rubs and skin funk and keeps things looking polished.
Keep busy. There is always something to do. Pick a stall, rake the front of the barn, groom and get the tack ready for the next horse or two, sweep the aisle, etc. A person who makes themself useful is always welcome in the barn.
Curry before you tack up and after when the horse is still warm and you can circulate all the oils. Then bathe. If you learn ways to keep horses clean without always having to bathe them, it will set you apart. I use two body brushes when grooming. After I curry, the first body brush sweeps away dirt. Then I spray the second lightly with coat conditioner or vinegar and go over where I brushed w the first. Picks up extra dirt. Saves on laundry for saddle pads etc. Attention to detail between their front legs and up by their poll. Mane brushed or combed before bridling. Condition tails when they are washed and hand pick or wide tooth comb to disentangle them.
Unless on a special restricted diet, never let them run out of hay and of course water.
These are all things that I would notice ( coming from private farm owner who hires grooms )
Not to detract from any of the great advice here, but I would NEVER recommend that you purchase supplies or equipment out of your own pocket. You don’t get paid enough, and will almost never get reimbursed. If there is something you want or need to do your job better, more easily, more efficiently, go to the owner or trainer and ask them to buy it. Be prepared to explain why or how it will help. If there is a specific tool you want for yourself (a pocket knife, sharp scissors, heavy duty hoof pick for digging out snowballs, etc.), buy it, label it clearly with your name, and never leave it lying around.
Grey
Have a system and a schedule. Stick to it! Maintain a running list of extra things that need to be done. Use a white board for the barn schedule (turn out, lessons, training rides, vet visits, farrier visits, chiro, etc.) organized by horse and a white board in the feed room. Be organized and work smart. Try to eliminate extra steps whenever possible. Don’t be afraid to ask questions!
Good luck!
I would find a brush set you really like and recommend the set to owners if their brushes aren’t great. I typically use at least 3 different brushes and a curry for regular grooming - a stiff, but finer bristled brush for heavier dirt, a long bristled flicker type brush to flick away dust and dirt, and then a soft brush with a good amount of natural oil for finishing. I prefer natural haired brushes, although sometimes I’ll use a synthetic flicker brush. Winners Circle makes good but affordable brushes I like.
If I’m tacking up horses quickly, I will use a coat conditioner spray on the coat after currying and then brush. That little bit of moisture helps get rid of dust quicker and makes grooming go faster. In a pinch I’ll dip the tip of the brush bristles in water (using the stiffer brush or a flick brush). Not too much that it makes the coat wet but enough to control the dust. Avoid putting coat conditioner on the saddle pad area before rides.
Always ask what kind of hoof oil or conditioner the owner wants you to use. Some owners don’t want it at all, some do. It can loosen shoe nails, but it can really polish a horse if permitted.
Avoid hair conditioner with silicone if possible. It can dry out the hair follicle. Take care with tails. Over brushing will cause breaks. If I’m going to brush out, I’ll use a good conditioner spray first so I’m not breaking the hair. I use a pick for hair a lot, too.
When braiding, quick braid is great but even a cheap wet hair gel on wet hair before braiding can do well.
A wet rag and saddle soap go a long way, but always ask the owner what type of saddle cleaner they prefer and how they want their tack cleaned. You don’t want to be responsible for damaged tack. Always clean bits after each use. You can simply dip in water before they dry to make it quick and easy.
If horses are in training, don’t obsess, be timely, and stay on the trainer’s schedule. Arrive early if needed. Sometimes I would arrive early in the AM, groom each horse very well, then do a quick tidy up before being saddled to save time through the day. Talk to the owner and whoever is riding and figure out their schedule. Never have them waiting on you.
Ask the owner if they want to use a certain liniment after rides. Some are not permitted for shows. Avoid tons of shampooing. This will strip coats of oil. I prefer vetrolin liniment because it deters flies, is a muscle brace, doesn’t strip oil and but it is not show legal. (Correction, Sore No More is show legal).
Communicate. Ask lots of questions. Find out exactly what they want and what schedule they want. Make suggestions on products you really love. Be pleasant, professional, timely and have an eye for detail. It will go a long way.
Vetrolin is NOT legal. Unlikely to test, but not legal.
Agreed. If not using water (which I lean towards as it’s much cheaper than a product!) and my mare is on the cleaner side, then I’ll often use a light spritz of Miracle Groom with a body brush to help me pick up those pesky dust particles that the stiffer brushes can’t budge. In my experience it hasn’t left the hair slick or excessively shiny afterwards.
I’ve also just discovered the practice of hot clothing, a small amount of oil (I use coconut oil because I have it kicking around anyway) in a bucket of hot water and wring out the rag before rubbing over the coat. I’m not a morning person so will often try and cut down on amount of time spent grooming for shows first thing in the AM, and I think this technique is going to help me get my mare ready in less time. The last show we went to I think I curried, ran over her with a stiff brush, then did the hot cloth. Done in about 20 minutes.
Thanks for the correction. Sore No More is legal last I checked, not vetrolin, though I still love it and use it on horses not being tested for competition.
Another reason to always ask the owner first.
Interesting! I checked out the Q&A on the Smartpak website just out of curiosity. Thus is for vetrolin, not Sore No More.
Not a grooming tip, more a general one. For your own protection, get a written contract that clearly sets out your responsibilities, your hours, your pay, insurance, health care, vacation pay (I know, this is the USA, who ever takes vacations?), time at shows etc etc etc. Avoid ambiguity. Even better idea, get your future employer to write the contract and check it is reasonable before you sign it.
Too often a favour for your boss becomes a standard part of your already busy day or the extra horse your boss purchases doesn’t come with an increase in your wages.
Keep your mouth shut. Times 10. If you must say something? if you cant say something nice or constructive, don’t say nuthin.
Remember the boss owns the horses.
Ditto the poster who advised a good contract. Be realistic about your hours, pay, and responsibility. Take a lunch break. I spent enough time as a pro groom that I can confidently say that no one is looking out for your interests except for you. It’s not such a serious job that it should justify you regularly working through lunch, not taking any breaks, working 12+ hour days and going weeks without a day off. Burnout tends to be glorified in the horse industry and it’s not healthy, nor is it necessary. Not that your employer will do these things- but industry standard is very low, so be firm on your own standard.
From a work perspective, organization is critical. Learn your employer’s routine and do your best to be ahead of the game. I had success working for some difficult people by being attentive and learning to anticipate their needs/wants. Take their cues in terms of what they like for horse management, but don’t compromise your own standards if you feel the horsemanship is poor. Set a good but attainable standard for yourself- don’t work yourself to the bone in your first few weeks, trying to impress. That pace is not sustainable long term and it sets you up to look bad in a few months if you burn out.
White ponies/horses will be the end of you if they’re not clean/ready to show. Here’s some helpful tips. Fanola purple shampoo left in for five minutes will make the dirtiest grey clean and shiny. White touch-up spray will help when you’re at the ring.
Good luck!
Ok, adding on to this. If whomever you are working for won’t purchase the necessary supplies, just leave. Full stop. I’ve groomed in quite a few different barns and the only ones you want to be working for are going to buy what you need without much questioning.
Whether it’s pitchforks, a good wheelbarrow, brushes, or grooming supplies. You can tell how a barn treats their employees by their equipment. I’ve worked for barns where the BO was so excited because she got in a bunch of different grooming supplies for me to try, and I’ve worked in barns where they had one hose for 100 stalls and I had to hold the wheelbarrow together with a hair tie and a horseshoe nail.
Not to thread derail, but this is true full stop about ALL aspects of barn work. I remember helping out at a barn I rode at when the owner was away for a week that complained about how difficult it was to find help. Only one wheelbarrow could reliably travel in a straight line, most of the pitchforks were plastic with broken tongs, and getting to the muck heap required balancing the wheelbarrow up a narrow strip of rotting wood sharply uphill through mud. Barn work is always going to be hard on some level, but sometimes a small investment into making it easier to get stuff done can have a bit payoff.
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