Haflinger's insane mane causing saddle fit issues?

I purchased my first Haflinger last fall, and I adore him. He’s 13 hands of cuteness, with the thickest double mane I have ever encountered, and I’ve owned a few ponies in my life.

To complicate matters, he has ZERO withers, a flat back, and his mane runs back into the saddling area.

I’ve managing to get him a correctly fitting saddle (Wintec Wide Dressage, XXL tree), and I use a non-slip pad under my other pad, but I’m still getting some slippage and I’m wondering it it’s due the the fact I am forced to place the saddle over a considerable amount of mane.

Had anyone every dealt with this? I’m hoping some Haflinger/Cob owners will weigh in with some similar experiences, and perhaps a solutions.

TIA!

Not a Haffie owner, but I do have a thick Mustang who is round, thick and has a short useable back. Her mane runs under the saddle pad too. I keep it clipped using run of the mill clippers, just like a bridle path. I’m not sure I’ve got any photos, but If I do I can post when I find them.

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Thanks so much! That was something I considered, I just wondered if anyone had tried it. My guy grows mane so fast I’m sure I’ll be clipping it once a week, lol.

I’d love some photos if you can dig them up. Thanks again!

If you’re going to be clipping his mane where the saddle pad sits, make sure you’re lifting the saddle pad up off his neck when you saddle up or the pressure on the stubble might cause a negative reaction, as it likely won’t be comfortable for him.

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Thanks, jvanrens, that was my thought, too. If I clip there I’m going to have to do it frequently due to the rate his mane grows. Otherwise, he’ll have a Mohawk down there in a week!

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My pony’s mane isn’t as thick as yours, but it runs really far down his withers. I usually do a running braid from the forelock to about three quarters down; then I do another running braid from the withers up to the other braid to prevent the end from going under the pad.

If your horse’s mane is too thick for braiding, maybe you can thin it by pulling it at that end so it isn’t as bushy.

Good thought, everyone should always be bridging their saddle pad no matter the style. :slight_smile:

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I clip my mustang’s withers every 2-3 weeks or so. She doesn’t have the “hair gene” but it still grows lol

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Photos.zip (4.9 MB)

Not the best photo, but you can still see where her mane ends. I clip against the hair first in long stripes maybe 2-3 passes needed, and then i follow up with the clippers going in the direction of the hair to ensure no sharp hairs.

I also made the switch to jojoba oil for manes and tails this year and I will never use anything else. It softens the hair, is super lightweight, cost effective, and it doesn’t smell like anything so it doesn’t attract flies. I don’t see a lot of dirt or dander clinging to it either.

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the zipped file isn’t working for me so try this instead:

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Count me in as another person who clips the last six inches of mane where it reaches their withers. I had a horse who could not tolerate his mane hair being pulled/tugged by the saddle pad. He’d twitch his skin like crazy under saddle, seemingly randomly until I realized he was being agitated by his mane getting under the saddle pad and being tugged every stride.

I’ve found sheepskin-backed saddle pads help counteract the stubble too.

I have to cut it back every few weeks or so as well.

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Thanks for all the responses, everyone! I will definitely clip his mane for our next ride and report back. And thanks again for the reminder to bridge the pad… I’m getting back to riding after a long abscence and I appreciate it!

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We clip our horses’ manes near the withers as well. I have TBs, so not usually a huge mane, but we still do it. I hate getting the mane stuck under the pad. And yes, I always bridge the pad.

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Get your saddle checked by an experienced fitter to make sure it fits properly. Just because it’s wide enough, doesn’t guarantee fit. I had a PRE who was super wide/table backed and XXL saddles I tried still slipped. I ended up getting a Duett dressage saddle with a hoop tree. The correct width AND shape of the tree is what did the trick.

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