Hauling mare and foal. See any pitfalls with this DIY full-length butt-bar idea?

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

I have a 2 horse straight load and need to take out the center to haul a mare and foal. This means I loose two rings for butt straps, and need a full length bar (I don’t want to rely on the rear doors alone). I called Featherlite directly about ordering a full length butt-bar and the cost is close to $400 for the 2" pipe bar, pin adapter I would need to swap out my side ring for, and padded cover. I’m going to use it once to haul these two, and can’t justify spending that much.

So what if I get a heavy-duty chain and run it through a 1 or 2" metal pipe (you can buy 5’ ones off the shelf). That leaves about 2" of exposed chain on either side because the attachments take up room too. I would leave just enough slack to unhook. I was going to buy pipe insulation and use duct tape and/or vinyl to make a cover and pad the pipe. Then for connections I was thinking a heavy duty carabineer on one side and a Clevis hook with a safety latch on the other side. That also has a quick-release pin, just in case. I’m not saying this one exactly, but here is a picture in case you aren’t familiar: https://www.mfrexpress.com/38-clevis-slip-hook-safety-latch-grade-70-p-466.html Very similar to what is on the current smaller butt-straps the trailer came with.

What do you think? The other option would be some type of industrial PVC instead of the pipe. It would bend a bit if the mare leaned on it, but it would also cover all of the chain. I’m not sure how much pressure she could put on the doors if she leaned back with the bend in the chain/pvc…

I could also just use the pipe and chain and run the padding all the way to the sides to the hooks. So some would be on chain. It would probably give enough that I could unhook the bar. I need to use it one time, so if it is rough on my “pad” it’s not the end of the world.

[GoForAGallop]

I would get the chain, and roll it up in a beach towel with some duct tape, and call it good. Still allows for a little flex, won’t rub tail hairs out, etc. Totally fine for a 1-time use.

I retrofitted my trailer for a rear chain (two heavy d-rings welded on either side), mainly because a full length butt bar is a PITA to work with. I was going to make a nice sleeve for it out of the same vinyl used for the padding on the sides, but actually sold it about three weeks after the modification.

[cutter99]

I would use the PVC over the chain or even find hose that would fit over the chain. The hose would also help to keep the chain flexible if you were to have a situation that would call for the chain to move.

[mvp]

Great idea, OP! I have wanted something similar for a long time, but I didn’t want to even start to price out the cost of having a solid bar made.

I really like the pipe over chain for a number of reasons. And those will tell you what to choose.

1. IMO, you want a horse to feel something solid when he backs up into hit. To me, the little bit of give in a chain makes that barrier feel “negotiable” to a horse. You want him to believe the butt bar, I think. So I wouldn’t build anything that was padded and flexible.

2. The worst thing about the full-width butt barn (again, IMO) is the unloading process, especially if you are alone (and that’s my requirement for equipment. I should be able to manage two horses by myself because some day, that will be required). So you untie the horse and then go to the back to take down the butt bar. Ideally, the horse is trained to wait. But some don’t, or the usually-good one doesn’t wait this one time. If you are standing behind them in one stall, they can see you and believe that you hold that space. But with the full bar, you need to be able to swing that thing all the way open. And then you aren’t there visually blocking the space.

Hmm. I don’t have a good solution to this engineering problem. But! For this problem and for safety in a wreck, I’d put hooks that were weight rated for at least as much weight as the chain is on both sides. I’d want to be able to unhook either side or both.

I think the chain-in-pipe might make a little more rattling noise than you like as you go down the road. But I’d choose something heavier that PVC pipe, I think. Or not. Not sure. Just be sure to consider noise as so many people don’t realize how loud rattling trailer parts can be.

Good luck with your design project and I hope you’ll let us know if you figure out a great solution.

[andhourspass]

I was just about to start a post on this very topic. I have a 2H BP slant load step up trailer and there’s no bar or chain for the back stall. The horses I haul are extremely well behaved but it makes me nervous.

Did you guys take your trailers to the trailer place to have heavy duty pins or rings welded on the inside of the trailer to clip onto?

[GoForAGallop]

[QUOTE=andhourspass;8796030]
I was just about to start a post on this very topic. I have a 2H BP slant load step up trailer and there’s no bar or chain for the back stall. The horses I haul are extremely well behaved but it makes me nervous.

Did you guys take your trailers to the trailer place to have heavy duty pins or rings welded on the inside of the trailer to clip onto?[/QUOTE]

I just went to my local metal fabrication place. They also built me an entirely new ramp. And I paid way, way less than I would have at the horse trailer place near me, which also does light fabrication. (They turned down the ramp job.)

[csaper58]

In a pinch, I used heavy chain pulled thru a pool noodle, farrier opened the last link on each side so the pin for the butt bar could be used. I liked that it was quiet, no loud rattling.

[csaper58]

[QUOTE=andhourspass;8796030]
I was just about to start a post on this very topic. I have a 2H BP slant load step up trailer and there’s no bar or chain for the back stall. The horses I haul are extremely well behaved but it makes me nervous.

Did you guys take your trailers to the trailer place to have heavy duty pins or rings welded on the inside of the trailer to clip onto?[/QUOTE]

These are rated for 4000 lbs.

www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cargo-Control/Brophy/LRB1.html

There are all kinds, bolt on or weld on

www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Cargo_Control-pc-D~Ring.aspx

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

I hadn’t considered the noise factor with pipe and chain. That is a good point.
Part of my concern and thought for padding is that the loose foal, having an equine’s self-destructive potential, could, theoretically decide to put her leg over the chain (very unlikely). I thought padding might make that relatively impossible. Likewise, the box is big enough her mother, who will need to be tied due to the managers, does not actually reach the butt bar unless she pulls back.

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

FYI, I already have the rings, just like the ones posted above and am not set up for pins in this trailer. My trailer utilizes butt straps (like a seat belt) when the divider is in. I imagine so they can be cut in an emergency.

I will definitely post pictures. Idk if I will get it done this weekend, we need to finish painting our house.

[gumtree]

I haul mares and foals on a 2 horse Kingston from time to time. I fabricated 3/4" plywood attached to the front center divider bar and chest bars so the foal couldn’t get under and jammed in the front.

I don’t use and take out the butt bars. My trailer ramp/door is plenty strong enough. The foal is free to roam and the mare is tied. But she doesn’t ride the same as being in a “single stall” where they will lean on the but bar/door. She is free to swing her body around.

Unless you have very flimsy rear doors I wouldn’t worry about butt bars and trying, spending money on MacGyvering something. But if I was going to and not having the benefit of a picture of your trailer. I would MacGyver something out of a 2" pipe. Wouldn’t worry about padding it.

[Bells]

I 2nd the pool noodle over the chain.

[mypaintwattie]

My trailer has butt chains, I covered them with a pool noodle and duct tape so they are well padded, and it’s easy to replace the pool noodle once it becomes dirty or worn. I would just do a chain with a pool noodle or foam over it and call it a day, you probably don’t need anything any more elaborate.

[moving_to_dc]

[QUOTE=gumtree;8796281]
I haul mares and foals on a 2 horse Kingston from time to time. I fabricated 3/4" plywood attached to the front center divider bar and chest bars so the foal couldn’t get under and jammed in the front. [/QUOTE]

To me, this is FAR MORE important than a butt bar/chain. A foal that gets in front of the chest bars and bumps into the escape doors can EASILY open them, and fall out of the trailer. Escape doors are NOT meant to hold back any force or bear any weight.

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

[QUOTE=moving to dc;8797042]
To me, this is FAR MORE important than a butt bar/chain. A foal that gets in front of the chest bars and bumps into the escape doors can EASILY open them, and fall out of the trailer. Escape doors are NOT meant to hold back any force or bear any weight.[/QUOTE]

Agree! I don’t have typical side escape doors. My escape door goes into the tack room. So there is an aisle at the front of the trailer and it just so happens if you stack 4 hay bales they fit perfectly and will keep the foal from getting up there and getting stuck. She will have plenty to nibble on I guess. The negative if I go that high is I can’t reach the mare’s head without going in there.

The only thing I’m debating is if I need to stick a bale up in the right manger (mom will be on the left). It will block the air vent and one of the windows. And be a PITA to secure so it doesn’t fall on the baby. I can’t picture her rearing up into the manger for any reason…idk.

Floorplan is just like this one http://www.fthr.com/products/horse-trailers/bumper-pull/9407-horse-trailer?tab=Floor+Plans
2nd one down–9407 with the DR and walk through mangers. 2 full rear doors (no ramp).

Gumtree, you raise a good point about the mare not likely to pull back when she can swing her butt. Maybe I’m worrying about something I don’t need to. I am leaning towards using my trailer tie (it’s not a break away, but does have some give) and her leather halter. If I take out the head divider, which removes, the tie ring is on the aisle side and she could lower her head if needed enough to clear the side of the manger. It is a 4 hour drive, with no stops, but I will break after a couple hours so the foal can nurse. Then the mare can also reach the aisle hay bales. She definitely hauls better when she has hay. I go back and forth on this, because on the opposite end I could tie with a blocker tie ring and rope halter. I just don’t like break-away ties in general. I think it may be better that the mare is absolutely secured. IDK.

[Chestnut_Run]

[QUOTE=gumtree;8796281]
I haul mares and foals on a 2 horse Kingston from time to time. I fabricated 3/4" plywood attached to the front center divider bar and chest bars so the foal couldn’t get under and jammed in the front.

I don’t use and take out the butt bars. My trailer ramp/door is plenty strong enough. The foal is free to roam and the mare is tied. But she doesn’t ride the same as being in a “single stall” where they will lean on the but bar/door. She is free to swing her body around.

Unless you have very flimsy rear doors I wouldn’t worry about butt bars and trying, spending money on MacGyvering something. But if I was going to and not having the benefit of a picture of your trailer. I would MacGyver something out of a 2" pipe. Wouldn’t worry about padding it.[/QUOTE]

I second this. I have hauled mares and foals numerous times in my two horse trailer. Ours we can remove the center divider and chest bars completely, so that’s what I do. I tie the mare and leave the foal loose. No butt bar at all. I close the ramp and the top doors above the ramp, and they are good to go. I hauled two sets of foals like this from Pennsylvania to Kentucky with no issues whatsoever, as well as several more local trips.