Hauling Without Trailer Brakes?

[Blueeyedroan]

*** Edit to add , trailer would be hauling ONE horse.

Argument between boyfriend and I, maybe you can settle it.
His truck is a 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel long box. It’s a huge ,ugly ,heavy pig of a truck. Truck is an electrical basket case - and a brake controller isn’t an option in it right now. It has a 7 pin plug and all the lights work, it just won’t activate the trailer brakes themselves.
My trailer is just a 2H angle haul, steel , 1994 Circle J.
Boyfriend ( who holds a Class 1 license and drives a drill rig, believe it or not )thinks it’s perfectly fine to haul on local-ish within 2 hours without trailer brakes.
I would have to disagree and say that it massively slows down your safe stopping distance and throws the horse around worse since the truck is slowing the trailer , without the aid of the trailer also slowing itself.

What is your take on this? Have you ever hauled a small trailer without the aid of properly connected trailer brakes - or would you?

[LCDR]

Small trailer, yes. But a horse trailer, even with one horse, no.

Since his truck is equipped with a 7 pin RV type trailer plug receptacle that is correctly wired to the truck, and his problem is that he doesn’t want to install a wired brake controller in his truck, you should consider buying a wireless trailer brake controller.

A Tekonsha P3 wired trailer brake controller is around $175. A Curt 51180 Echo wireless trailer brake controller is about the same. If boyfriend cannot stop in time and there is an accident injuring your horse, imagine what your vet bill might be.

[Janet]

Have I? Yes, but not by choice.
Would I do it intentionally? No.

Many years ago, I trailered my horse to a lesson. When I started to go home, I realized that my trailer brakes were not working. But I made the decision to drive home anyway.
Less than half an hour, on good, but not major roads (well paved, not a lot of twists and turns, not a lot of intersections, not a lot of traffic). I drove extra carefully, and slower than normal, but it was uneventful. And, of course, I had them fixed before I drove the trailer again.

Considerations-

Driving a horse trailer without trailer brakes may be against the law in your state.

Have you considered surge brakes? They mount on the trailer side of the hitch and do not require any equipment on the tow vehicle. Basically,there is a hydraulic cylinder mounted behind the hitch. When the tow vehicle slows, the trailer momentum starts to compress the hydraulic fluid in the cylinder, which activates the trailer brakes.

My understanding is that they are legal in some states, but not other. (Updated to say it appears they are now legal nationwide.

Surge Brakes Declared Legal

“New rules took effect in April <2007> legalizing the use of automatic hydraulic inertia brake systems (surge brakes) on light- and medium-duty trailers within certain limits, even in commercial applications.”
“For trailers with Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings (GVWRs) of less than 12,000 lbs., the regulation approves surge brake use for vehicle-to-trailer GVWR ratios of 1:1.175. For trailers between 12,000 and 20,000 lbs., the regulation approves use for vehicle-to-trailer GVWR ratios of 1:1.25.”

The trailer we had in the 1960s had surge brakes, and (over at least 5 years) we never had any problems with them, including multiple trips from NY metro area to Woodstock VT, and back.

[Texarkana]

This may or may not work for your situation, but they make wireless brake controllers.

Many years ago when my truck died and I had to borrow a lot of trucks for the interim, I bought one of these:

https://a.co/d/7OdeSxW

You install it on the trailer. The truck does need to have a working 7 pin electric plug receiver that most horse trailers use. Then you have a piece you plug into the cigarette lighter in the cab that pairs with a remote control you use to control the brakes.

It worked flawlessly for me.

[fivestrideline]

No. Do NOT haul a horse without trailer brakes. It may even be illegal in your state. The only way I’d do this is if I was moving a horse across the road or running from a wildfire. And ONLY if I had no other option. No way would I be hauling around 2 hours!

I have hauled one horse in a similar weight trailer and truck setup, and can tell you that you NEED brakes on the trailer even if everything goes smoothly. Additionally, if (heaven forbid) you need to slam on the brakes, the trailer brakes not only allow you to stop faster, they also help prevent a jackknife/trailer flipping situation. By design.

Is the issue the truck doesn’t have a brake controller? Those are pretty cheap to get a wireless one you can take in and out. No excuse.

[endlessclimb]

This, for getting brakes. They make ones that hook to the bluetooth on your phone, too.

Absolutely not would I haul a dynamic load without brakes, no matter the size of the truck. If the horse falls and starts to scramble, swinging the trailer around, you need the trailer brakes themselves to activate to stabilize the situation.

[CanteringCarrot]

What’s interesting is that someone I know hauls a similar trailer (older steel 2 horse slant bumper pull) with a mid size SUV with no brakes and claims it’s fine. Only one horse in the trailer, but you couldn’t pay me to tow with that set up for a variety of reasons. By that “logic” if that SUV handles it fine then I’d think that truck would too. However, I’m not sure that it really does handle it fine.

I towed with smaller vehicles and a surge brake trailer when I lived in Europe. It was fine. Surge brakes can be a slight pain when backing up/backing up a slight incline but for the most part, they’re simple and they work. On a smaller trailer, I have no issue with them. I’ve never converted/installed them onto a trailer that came with electric brakes though.

I’ve not used a wireless brake controller, but that might be a good option?

[Blueeyedroan]

***Electrical basket case.
A brake controller isn’t the issue. The 8+ hours in a shop of combing through absolutely janky electrical that’s been messily spliced into by under qualified dill-holes is the issue. You can plug a brake controller into it all day long , it won’t do anything . The truck is literally hot wired to even get it to start.
Up here in Canada we use Curt trailer products moreso than Tekonisha , I think what you guys are talking about is a Curt “Echo” trailer brake controller. Very cool technology. Do I trust it ? I’m not sure. We are actually installing one on a Ford Transit van at work next week - I’m interested to see how it plays out. Never seen one in action before !

Thanks for confirming all my thoughts. I’m kind of disappointed that a man who is a CLASS 1 DRIVER would condone such behaviour.
I have a clinic this weekend and I asked him MONTHS ago to straighten out his damn truck situation and he didn’t.
Then tries to “educate” me that it’s fine.
They let this man drive semi’s? Terrifying.

[Blueeyedroan]

The vet may be able to save the horse. But there will be no saving the boyfriend!!!

[CanteringCarrot]

I don’t f*ck around with electrical issues in vehicles. I’d be a mess hauling with that truck. No brakes and questionable electrical…two of my nightmares!

[fivestrideline]

For some reason, it’s 50/50 with the “pros”. Some are safety conscious and know EVERY detail and WHY. Some play fast and loose with safety - I see so many wrecks involving heavy trucks driven professionally that are a result of crappy maintenance and jerry-rigging. Survivorship bias, IMO.

It’s one thing to haul a lightweight garden trailer. You wouldn’t catch me putting a live animal, ESPECIALLY not my horse, in such a situation!

[beowulf]

Your boyfriend is right. I own a 2001 model. Some posters don’t understand how heavy and powerful that engine is. Have you hauled with it yet?

I can’t get mine inspected in most places because it’s so big. Most inspection stations and lifts are rated up to 9,999 lb and the 7.3 is comfortably 10,000+. I have to drive out to a garage that does commercial (tractor trailer) inspections.

Mine also has electrical issues. If the truck was ever used for plowing, pull the plowing harness and reassess the wiring there.

In a perfect world, it’s a nice thing to have and I’d definitely want it if you were hauling 2 horses regularly with any highway traveling - but it’s not necessary (pending state law). Even in catastrophic situations with dynamic loads, the trailer brakes don’t always work how you would expect them to. For your own peace of mind, buy one of the bluetooth or wireless brake controllers.

Or consider buying your own vehicle. You might come to love that “ugly pig” of a truck. Talk to other diesel mechanics. It’s one of the best trucks ever made.

My only regret with my 7.3 is now that I know how hauling should feel, I can’t downgrade. Mine’s currently out for some age related maintenance and I’m lucky to borrow a relative’s perfectly capable 2500 - but even then I notice a huge difference in how it hauls.

[CanteringCarrot]

The invincible 7.3

Just haul anything with it. I hear that it even drives on water

But seriously, when the OP mentioned the year and engine, I was less concerned. Still not ideal (the electrical and the brakes), but not a complete death trap.

My anxiety would still be in the passenger seat talking about electrical issues and brakes though. That’s just me as a person though.

[Blueeyedroan]

The truck is beat to shite and has serious electrical issues - yes.
But it’s got a whole brand new front end - ball joints , tie rod ends , wheel bearings, alignment within spec , brand new brakes on the truck itself and brand new tires. You would NOT KNOW by looking at it, but mechanically, it’s one of the safest things on the road. And it’s not fast enough to get out of its own way hahahah.
Those who know a 7.3….
And it truly is a ridiculously heavy truck. Like grossly heavy .

[beowulf]

@CanteringCarrot

Just haul anything with it. I hear that it even drives on water

Okay but, tempted to try it…

OP, since you many not know and need some reassurance - in the diesel world, the 1999 7.3 is considered the best truck ever made. I have the 2001 which is just shy of the peak years, but better than modern models. I can’t pull up to a diesel truck stop without people offering to buy it and mine looks beat to all get-out too. Your comment about it being an ugly pig made me laugh.

Mine has a badly rusted frame from its years in the NE, and I’m paying someone to cut out and weld a new frame on it. Here’s my problem. This truck is so ^^@$% good, I can’t find any blown up SD XLTs for a frame swap.

I hear ya on the electrical issues, CanteringCarrot. I discovered my electrical issues as I was pulling back into the driveway, the truck just politely turned itself off as I was passing the horse paddock. I knew something was up because the radio had died about a mile before. One of the many wonderful things about my truck is it’s always had the decency to announce a problem as I’m pulling up my driveway or leaving it.

[Blueeyedroan]

There’s a love/hate relationship between me and the 7.3.
I’m a service advisor at a shop. So when you say it’s the most reliable diesel on the road - believe me - I know !

That said - I picked up a 2004 Duramax for $1500 that was being dumped as a parts truck.
Have spent the last year slowly piecing it back together and recently got it on the road.
It’s at 519,000km on the odometer and counting, with a very rough life and no maintenance …… and it would eat that 7.3 for breakfast if I let it. It drives like a dream and has triple the power , if not more.
I just got a brake controller in it yesterday and hooked it up to my trailer. There’s some issues , but the brakes are working and I did a dry haul with it.

So we will probably be taking my truck. Only issue is I can’t back the trailer up worth shite, and bf isn’t allowed to drive my truck so it’s all on me haha.

[tabula_rashah]

Ah Fords and their electrical issues lol.
Should you haul like that? No probably not
Can you haul one horse with that truck (esp if it’s a manual) and no brakes? Yeah you’re going to be fine. I’ve hauled a fully loaded 4 horse with an F450 and no brakes (in no way did I do this on purpose, brakes went wonky while en route) and didn’t really notice any difference other than I was insanely cautious.

[Christa_P]

I have a 2001 as well and I just put $$$$ in it for exhaust work, a new injector cover, and frame welding. A couple of years ago I finally took the bed off and built a wood flatbed because it was so bad. I want to go south and pick up a cab and chassis to swap the engine into.

[trubandloki]

Feeling old thinking back to when some of the two horse trailers did not even come equipped with brakes.

On the OP’s question -
I think if you are driving on not highway type roads at slower speeds you should be fine with that truck and no trailer brakes.
It is the smartest thing to do? Nope. But it would likely work fine.

[endlessclimb]

@beowulf

I can’t get mine inspected in most places because it’s so big. Most inspection stations and lifts are rated up to 9,999 lb and the 7.3 is comfortably 10,000+. I have to drive out to a garage that does commercial (tractor trailer) inspections.

Dry? Have you pulled it across a scale empty?

It’s really unlikely it weighs over 10,000# at all. The truck weighs roughly 7500# on the base trim model. The weight on your doorjamb is with a presumed max payload. I’ve never known anyone to break 10k, even with headache racks, steel bumpers, and full toolboxes.

Most lifts are rated for 2-3 tons. The length gets you booted as often as the weight does. I have a 2012 cummins and have to get it aligned where they do the school buses.