having trouble with my whip/hands

I am new to driving as is my horse. I’m having a few separate yet related issues, and was hoping someone might have some advice for me.

I hold one rein in each hand, in through the pinky/ring finger, out the top through the thumb and outside of index finger. Bight flipped down, thumbs up (for the most part :winkgrin:).

My horse has slowly developed monkey-tail to the extreme. I mud knot him and he still literally sticks his tail straight up like he’s a lemur… or swings it around like a helicopter, searching for the reins. So, I hold my hands up quite high now, boob level or higher.

I’m starting to have trouble with my whip hand. I’ve never been good with my whip but it seems its getting worse as my horse gets more talented with his tail.

I get fatigued in my whip hand (right hand) and end up hanging on my horse’s mouth halfway through a school. I also have trouble using the whip to cue on my horse’s offside without pulling on his mouth noticeably.

My whip doesn’t feel heavy or unbalanced to me though the handle is quite thick. I think most of my problems are stemming from having to hold my hands unnaturally/uncomfortably high.

Is this a phase all drivers go through until dexterity and strength is developed?

Are these signs of my whip not being appropriate for me?

Should I build a reinbord and just sit and practice?

Is my horse’s creative tail something he’ll likely grow out of or should I be seeking solutions for this too? The antics seem to be directly linked to flies and breaks/downtime, aka walk breaks between work periods, walks on trails, etc.

Thank you!!!

Is your whip really really light? I wouldn’t like a thick stock, I’d have a hard time with that. I drive a Shire, so I need a 78" stock + 28" lash, so it’s got to be super light or it would kill my hands.

I use a McKee’s ultralight for everyday, and have a very nicely balanced Fleck for show.

First, you should hold your hands like you are playing the piano; thumbs up is for riding, flat hands for driving. Second, get a light, well-balanced whip that is the correct length. I use MCR Ultralite Whips with the shaft reaching almost to my ponies’ shoulders and a short lash - except for marathon where I use a shorter whip. Even though I took regular lessons with Bill Long and held my hands correctly, I still had problems until I got my MCR whips. :wink:

That’s interesting about the hands Pat, can you cite that as correct hand position? I’m trying to figure out how you’d keep your whip at 11 o’clock with piano hands?

[QUOTE=Quelah;5911964]
That’s interesting about the hands Pat, can you cite that as correct hand position? I’m trying to figure out how you’d keep your whip at 11 o’clock with piano hands?[/QUOTE]

I agree…

And you might want to look in to a tail tie crupper to try and break the whirlygig tail habit, http://www.drivingessentials.com/product_popup.php?ID=52010

I also use a McKee’s whip, very light and well balanced. http://www.ultralitewhips.com/

I found the MCR whips had a bigger handle than the McKee whip and the smaller diameter of the Mckee handle was more comfortable for me.

Well not totally flat hands but more flat than thumbs up. At least that’s how Bill Long taught me to do it :wink:

And MCR has different size handles. Meredith can even make custom leather ones so you should be able to find one that’s quite comfortable for any hand size.

Second here to CDE’s advice on the tail holder, to get horse over the habit of tail twirling. That is such a PITA to deal with. Could be horse reaction to the two-hand rein hold and whip use. You say tail problem is increasing with more driving, then your hands are going up to artificial position. You still have problem with artifical hand position but getting worse. You may be in an non-winning situation, something else MUST change, so horse reacts a different way.

Also second to the whip advice, MCR whips are very nice. I can’t do a thin sticked handle, my fingers are too long, cramps my hand. I don’t want a really fat handle, but not tiny either.

Next is do you know HOW to get to or find the balance point on your whip?

That “perfect place” is almost never down in the handle part, unless you have modified that whip for changing the balance point. And the longer the whip and lash, the higher on the stick your hand will be if you want to be at the balance point.

We were taught that whip must literally, balance, on your outstretched thumb, handle and lash tip equal, not tipping either way. THAT is where your hand must be to take away the pull of the long stick from your hand and wrist, while carrying whip in the vehicle. Sometimes that balance point is WAY up the stick, so you may need to weight down the handle end, to change the balance point and be comfortable to hold in use.

And last point, is you should work towards driving one handed to be a better driver, able to use your whip effectively. With the two-hand rein hold, whip in right hand, you release the right rein tension each time you use the whip. You are dropping your horse, no support on the right side rein. Horse can’t be consistant if you are not helping him with your inconsistant rein signals. Seriously, you can’t use the whip, keep that right rein in place at the same time. With any one-hand rein hold, you ARE able to use the whip without affecting the horse and rein contact. Horse may be doing the tail thing BECAUSE you are using the whip AND throwing one side rein away.

Have you been able to get any driving lessons with a trainer? Sounds like you may need some outside eyes to critque your form, catch problems you may not be aware of doing. It is HARD to do things on your own, so a few lessons now and again will catch us with incorrect posture, form or actions in driving. That rein release is a FRACTION of time, but horse sure feels it when you use the whip! Could be some other stuff happening as well, combination of little things, that affect the whole picture.

I am guessing here, but have had the rein release demo’d many times with beginner drivers, drivers from breed showing using the two-handed method and carry the whip with the rein. Changing the rein hold to a one-hand method helps, whip only in other hand, even if it takes a while to get comfortable with using daily. Perhaps using the tail holder for awhile, as you modify the other stuff, will help break the habit as horse is not so frustrated.

Goodhors, I get what you’re saying about one handed driving, but how would you relate the issues you describe with using a whip while driving two handed, to using a whip while riding, two handed? You don’t see too many FEI dressage riders w/ the reins in one hand unless they’re showing off :wink: And they aren’t dropping their horses when they use the whip, so why do you feel it must be so for drivers?

I say this coming from a ridden dressage background, so it seem natural to me to have both reins and whip in my hands.

[QUOTE=Quelah;5912536]
Goodhors, I get what you’re saying about one handed driving, but how would you relate the issues you describe with using a whip while driving two handed, to using a whip while riding, two handed? You don’t see too many FEI dressage riders w/ the reins in one hand unless they’re showing off :wink: And they aren’t dropping their horses when they use the whip, so why do you feel it must be so for drivers?

I say this coming from a ridden dressage background, so it seem natural to me to have both reins and whip in my hands.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, none of my post was related to riding use of the whip. And when I do ride, the whip can be a problem to me, when riding with one rein in each hand.

I would feel the Dressage Riders have the additional advantage of having legs on the horse, which may keep horse better balanced. Or not, I would have to be watching the rider to note if they lose rein contact. Longer whip to the hindquarters may help as well, not directing whip as actively the way a Driver would on both sides of horse. I will think ridden horse STILL feels the rein in whip hand move, but may not be able to escape or be dropped farther, like a Driven horse does when whip is used.

I also ride one-handed, old cowgirl training! I can center my hand on the neck with both reins in (either) one hand, support the horse on both sides, use my legs, if I think I need to use a whip in the other hand.

Whip does have to be long enough to reach horse parts without reaching on my part. I do not profess to ride trained Dressage at any levels, but I am not too proud to make use of some techniques from that discipline. I have tried the whip-in-rein-hand for signaling. It didn’t work for the same Driving reasons given. I dropped the horse on whip hand side. Horse was NOT understanding because signals were then mixed, so we couldn’t progress smoothly. MY FAULT, not the horse’s.

Spurs may help with ridden work in some training requests instead of a whip, to keep forward going. Horse needs to ALREADY know how to move away from pressure, so they get a reward if spur is used. I don’t uses spurs on a young, learning horse, he won’t understand the spur request. For me, spurs are for a more advanced training horse. Even then spurs are applied and taken off him. No consistant spur contact as many Dressage riders use spurs. Again, old western training for me, spur him lightly, maybe just a rub on side, get desired result, spur off of horse.

Same would be true in driving, horse moves away from whip smoothly if they ALREADY know how to move away from pressure/touches of the lash. Again, I feel the horse needs to be held steady with consistant rein pressure on BOTH sides, feel you helping him. This is provided to him by reins in one hand, whip in the other.

Thank you all so much for your help, what a wonderful bunch of folks you are to take time to offer advice.

Goodhors you again hit the nail on the head.

Second here to CDE’s advice on the tail holder, to get horse over the habit of tail twirling. That is such a PITA to deal with.
I think I will take this advice, thank you. I need to break the habit is right.

Could be horse reaction to the two-hand rein hold and whip use. You say tail problem is increasing with more driving, then your hands are going up to artificial position. You still have problem with artifical hand position but getting worse. You may be in an non-winning situation, something else MUST change, so horse reacts a different way.

Yes yes, I didn’t realize they were related, but you are right! I drove yesterday before reading any of this and had an epiphany.

Having mounted the carriage and just getting sorted, my horse started in with the tail twirling immediately. I noticed my hands were low, causing the reins to basically sit on his bum and he could not get his tail over it in that position, just whisk side to side. Ah ha! So I drove that school with my hands low, nearly to my lap. I held my whip better, and my hands were steadier with better contact and I had a happier horse and less tail twirling!!

We had some nice stretching, our best bending and corners yet (circles still quite wobbly :lol:), most trusting and happy mouth yet, and enjoyed a lovely long cool down walk in the woods, a nice rhythmical forward stretchy walk and a happy relaxed pony.

There still was some twirling, but much much less.

When he first started with the tail twirling ages ago, I resorted to holding my hands higher, naturally. I didn’t realize until yesterday, and now reading your post, that this had set up a chain reaction of bad habits. His tail twirling is exasperated by my bad hands, and my hands are bad because of the unnatural height I had to hold them, it was tiring and made me stiff in my arms and lock my elbows.

Also second to the whip advice, MCR whips are very nice. I can’t do a thin sticked handle, my fingers are too long, cramps my hand. I don’t want a really fat handle, but not tiny either.

thank you and everyone for the advice on a new whip, having read their site I think mine is too short too, so a new whip is in order. Reasonable prices too! Thanks again!

Next is do you know HOW to get to or find the balance point on your whip?

That “perfect place” is almost never down in the handle part, unless you have modified that whip for changing the balance point. And the longer the whip and lash, the higher on the stick your hand will be if you want to be at the balance point.

We were taught that whip must literally, balance, on your outstretched thumb, handle and lash tip equal, not tipping either way. THAT is where your hand must be to take away the pull of the long stick from your hand and wrist, while carrying whip in the vehicle. Sometimes that balance point is WAY up the stick, so you may need to weight down the handle end, to change the balance point and be comfortable to hold in use.

This is so funny! I find as I drive that my hand creeps up the shaft of the whip and I always end up holding it at the very tip top of the handle/grip. I keep catching myself and correcting it, but thanks to you I now realize I was doing the correct thing all along. My hand was migrating to the balance point all on its own.

Thank you so very much!

And last point, is you should work towards driving one handed to be a better driver, able to use your whip effectively. With the two-hand rein hold, whip in right hand, you release the right rein tension each time you use the whip. You are dropping your horse, no support on the right side rein. Horse can’t be consistant if you are not helping him with your inconsistant rein signals. Seriously, you can’t use the whip, keep that right rein in place at the same time. With any one-hand rein hold, you ARE able to use the whip without affecting the horse and rein contact.
Thank you, this is the second time someone has suggested learning to drive one handed and its advice I’m going to take. I can clearly see the value now. I am still learning about contact with my horse, had another revelation yesterday about my level of contact.

When we first set out learning to drive, my horse was coming out of a bad riding history and one of his major vices was napping. He also had an extremely light mouth. Forgiving, but light. In our early work he essentially trained me to to drive with consistent but featherweight contact. In our very early work this was ok because we weren’t doing much, and mostly in straight lines and huge ovals.

Since moving on to a nimble 4wheeler, and graduating to driving figures, etc. as the patterns became more complex and turns smaller, I started loosing my horse in the corners. This has been frustrating for us both for the last few weeks.

The last couple of drives, and especially yesterday, I’ve been taking a bit of a firmer contact, which my horse has been relaxing into finally (not something he would have done 6 months ago, he would have taken the excuse to balk repeatedly). He’s finally becoming consistently responsive to my voice to go on, and the firmer contact is helping me realize that I had been throwing away my outside rein in turns!

Horse may be doing the tail thing BECAUSE you are using the whip AND throwing one side rein away.
Its amazing how right you are and how you picked up on something that I’d been struggling with and didn’t even realize it.

Have you been able to get any driving lessons with a trainer? Sounds like you may need some outside eyes to critque your form, catch problems you may not be aware of doing. It is HARD to do things on your own, so a few lessons now and again will catch us with incorrect posture, form or actions in driving. That rein release is a FRACTION of time, but horse sure feels it when you use the whip! Could be some other stuff happening as well, combination of little things, that affect the whole picture.

I have taken lessons on other people’s trained horses. I’ve had driving friends come help me, but nothing as advanced as contact and how to drive turns, etc. I’m now looking for a trainer that will come out to where I board since I don’t have a truck or trailer. I’ve gotten a few leads so hope to make some contacts soon.

I am guessing here, but have had the rein release demo’d many times with beginner drivers, drivers from breed showing using the two-handed method and carry the whip with the rein. Changing the rein hold to a one-hand method helps, whip only in other hand, even if it takes a while to get comfortable with using daily. Perhaps using the tail holder for awhile, as you modify the other stuff, will help break the habit as horse is not so frustrated.
Thank you so much. I’m going to start experimenting with a one handed rein hold on each drive and slowly work towards becoming comfortable with it.

I can’t thank you enough, I had no idea how related all these issues were and you saw right to the heart of it all. I can’t thank you enough!

It’s been my limited experience recycling a pony with a lousy driving history that what you are describing about acceptance of contact is the normal progression in a driving horse. The further we get into correct dressage training the more contact my pony accepts and in fact wants. And you get the added bonus of truly learning about the outside rein - without it you can’t keep them upright and turning accurately.

I use an ultralite whip and have been pleased with it, but am also looking into an MCR - and kicking myself that I didn’t read this thread sooner as she was just at the CDE we competed in this past weekend!

I would look into getting videos on driving “achenbach” style/method of holding the reins. I think George Bowman, Bill Long or one the better 4-inhands drivers have made some instructional videos.
Check with Driving Essentials to see what they have.