Help me decide on a horse trailer

I just bought a brand new truck, unfortunately it is to tall for my 1999 gooseneck, I am not going to make it a flatbed so I have to replace my trailer.
Because I have this brand new truck there is no money in the budget to go over the price I will get for the old trailer.
I have an almunium trailer, but it seems like I can get a better trailer if I go with steel, I have no experience with steel trailers so please enlighten me.
I am trying to find a good used trailer but they are hard to find.
So if I have to buy new it looks like steel is more affordable, and I really can’t wait forever to buy one.
Looking for advice so thanks!

Why not just have your trailer axles flipped or blocked to raise the trailer?

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What @cutter99 said. If you like your current trailer, you can have it blocked up to make it tall enough to clear the truck bed. And if you’re looking at older used trailers many of them will have the same problem.

My new aluminum trailer came with blocks from the factory. Be aware that if it’s a step-up it may end up higher than you’d like. I had to add a ramp.

(And this is why my next truck will be a white work truck with a flat bed!)

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I did discuss this with the trailer repair shop, and it looked like I was then going to have to add a ramp,
If I have to I will just go with a bumper pull but I really would like to know everybody’s thoughts on steel trailers.

I would sooner retrofit an aluminum trailer to work with the truck than buy steel, especially if I lived in a state that uses salt on the roads. Many steel trailers will have the beginnings of rust by the time they are sold off the lot. I have a 20 year old aluminum stock trailer that still looks brand new.

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I had two old (1990s) steel trailers in Ohio this decade that I had no problems with. As long as they are properly cared for, and the rust is treated when it starts and doesn’t rust through, they can be fine trailers.

However, I agree with everyone else, in your shoes I’d make the aluminum trailer work with blocks and a ramp.

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Steel rust/corrodes fairly easily and requires pretty consistent maintenance. Failure to do so can, and will, eventually lead to structural compromise.

Aluminum does corrode but the corrosion is only a few atoms deep on the surface and then it stops. This is what give AL it’s “dull sheen.” You can easily remove this surface layer but unless you put some sort of protective coating on it it will just come back. Continuous removal of this protective layer is dissolving your trailer. Accept that dull is beautiful; or that you have to use a protective coat after cleaning; or watch your trailer disappear. :wink:

Having had both steel and aluminum trailers I’ll stick with the AL.

G.

I think the argument of steel vs aluminum depends more on the size of your trailer, I personally like steel trailers if you are talking about something that is a 3 horse or smaller. just because with that size there is very little weight savings, when you get bigger it makes more difference. Aluminun trailers typically hold their looks better. That said I live in California so rust is not really an issue for me, I just find that the smaller trailers get more banged up just because the use of the tends to be harsher, my big trailer rarely goes anyplace but down the freeway and through the truck stops, my smaller trailers go all kinds of places that cause more wear. The big trailers dont even have trailer ties, my small trailer goes to day shows and camping and my have horses tied to it over night. All of this leads to the need to repair. a steel trailer is so much easier and cheaper to repair. and steel tends to be tougher than aluminum, not to mention it is way cheaper. Either way there are pros and cons to each, you just need to look at your needs.

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I have a steel 1997 trailer. It looks like it was kept in a garage and only hit the road once a month. Weight wise, it’s 300lbs heavier than the exact same size and model trailer in Aluminum. Which I was surprised by.

As far as Aluminum, if you’re shopping older you have to be really careful. The body can look brand new but the frame can be rotted to pieces.

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Idk about that. I know someone with a steel 3-horse slant with tack room, same dimensions as the aluminum 3-horse slant with tack room I just bought, and hers weighs almost double what mine does (5600 vs 2400).

Actually quite the opposite is true. Steel frames have a greater tendency to rot, and aluminum skin over a steel frame can be the worst. All aluminum trailers do not rot as easily.

well, our Steel two horse bumper pull slant was broadsided by a car that ran a stop sign… hit the trailer just behind the hitch and in front of the trailer tires… not even much of a mark on the trailer but the car was totaled… daughter’s horse looked commonly down on the destroyed car … daughter was close to dragging the dude out of the car and total him but of all things a police officer witnessed the impact

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Hawk trailers are steel but galvanized and painted—way better than many of the cheaper steel frames. I had an older Kingston that just rotted away. I put a few thousand in for repairs before ultimately giving up. I’ve seen aluminium trailer welds fail, and it can be difficult to predict (metal appears to be fine and then fails).

A two horse steel trailer should be fine. I live in hot humid Florida. My old steel trailer lasted 20 years before i decided to upgrade because it wasn’t worth all the repairs.

My new used trailer is a steel stock combo trailer. Paid $4250 for it. I went ahead and installed rails so i can add windows. I bought polycarbonate shelf liners- they just happened to be the perfect size for the windows. I plan to add elastomeric coating to the roof because it has a small leak over the tack compartment. I do cover it with a tarp during storage. It protects from rain and sun. Otherwise it’s in direct sunlight year round.

The key to steel is you have to dish out the money for a professional paint job every so many years. Otherwise your paint dies and the trailer rusts. Or you can paint it with rustoleum every so many years, but you have to stay ahead of the rust. When you notice dead paint, it’s time to paint before any rust shows up. I did the interior of my trailer. Plan to do the exterior next after i finish the roof. It’s a big investment in time, but the inside was the hardest. The rest should be easy enough. I hope this trailer lasts another 20 years so i try to take very good care of it.

Aluminum is easier, but i feel safer with steel in case of a wreck.