Help me with leg yield please

Hey all! My greenish horse is coming along so nicely. He’s just a pleasure.

We are having one challenge that I just can’t seem to work out: the leg yield. If I am coming down the quarter line, keep my body square, hold equal contact on both reins, and apply my inside leg behind the girth…he goes to the rail, but shoulders first. He doesn’t get the idea of crossing over.

He can do a clean turn on the forehand, so I know he can move his hindquarters independently. He can kind of do a haunches in, but it’s not pretty and we lose our forward-ness.

Clearly this isn’t something we have to do at a show, but I do feel like lateral work makes for a more rideable, educated horse…and that’s a good thing!

Any tips? Thanks!

Teach it from the ground first.

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Yes. In hand first.
Also, teach it at the trot. It is easier for them.

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I teach from the ground. In simplest terms, colt is facing the fence. Say we are going left direction. Move hindquarters over, then forelegs/shoulder. Lead rope slackish, held in your right hand (for working forequarters), bight held in left hand for hindquarters. So straight, facing fence, step, step, return to facing fence. After progress do in other direction, down the fence line. Eventually in bridle then astride. If you have a clean TOTF this may be easy for him to understand.

Prior to this horse should understand moving his hindquarters over (as if you are in the washrack and you need him to move over). I install the voice command ‘over’ for this. He should also know to move his head away from you with a hand gesture, as if he were moving into your space.

For H/J the LY is handy for setting up a canter depart, and for cooling their jets if they get a bit excited jumping. Just ‘thinking’ YD upon landing can settle them.

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Timing your aids helps tremendously. Try asking with your inside leg when that inside hind is leaving the ground. So it’s “Move that leg over please.” And then the IF-OH-OF naturally follow if you open that door with your seat. Then again with the IH. Push-2-3-4.

As he gets the idea and learns to balance and support himself laterally, more genuine crossing will happen. Focus on getting one good step, then straightening out, then another good step, and so on. Ride straight and re-set when it starts to get wonky rather than continuing on and trying to fix the movement as you ride it.

(Maybe also add some regular rein-backs to your rides? They are great at getting my gelding’s HQ stronger and helping him think about correct steps.)

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You need to hold a bit with your outside rein to control the shoulders. Make sure you have slight flexion to the inside. BTW, shoulders first is way better than haunches first.

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Yes! This applies to so many movements!

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I would make sure the shoulder in and haunches in are reasonably solid first, then as other said, it’s usually about 3 steps LY, 3 steps forward up the long line, gradually increasing the steps in LY, always going forward when you lose correctness.

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This ^. Too many riders are not aware of when to apply the leg aid. Heck, I’ve even met a lot of lower-level dressage riders who pay no attention to this and then wonder why the horse is not responsive.

At the beginning, if it is difficult to feel when a particular foot is leaving the ground, work with a ground person for a bit. Soon, you’ll automatically feel that correct moment to apply your aids.

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Turn your head and look where you want to go.

The outside rein controls the shoulders.

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A quick cheat that is only good if used sparingly (like any good cheat) is to open your inside rein really wide for a fleeting second then bring it right back. The hindquarter will typically take a big step right as you do that. Copious praise, and go straight right after.

With young horses it’s more important to get it right, even if that means not as much crossing/not as steep of an angle. Couple steps, go straight and forward, repeat.

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(Apologies, its a novel but its a useful one) This method has worked well with the last 4 horses I’ve trained from green and all lateral work started from in the saddle.(one large draft cross, one small young wb and 2 OTTB). I start with them standing in the middle, or at the rail for the ones that need the support to prevent just going forward.

  • Moving the hind end. Slide the leg back to where you want your ‘move the hind end’ button to be and light pressure, no leg pressure in the direction the hind end is to move. Gently tap/tickle behind that leg until the horse steps away from the pestering. remove leg pressure completely as they move. In the beginning, take the pressure off if they even shift their weight in the correct direction. Pat/Scritch/feed snack (I vary between all 3) Repeat. If your timing for the removal of the pressure and whip tickle is good? They will figure out very quickly they can make the annoyance go away by moving. 1 step at a time is excellent progress. 3-4 repetitions each side when you ride will build up very quickly. By day 2 or 3 you should find they are responding to the leg position change without needing the dressage whip.

  • Moving the forehand. While standing, soft even contact both reins and move both hands in the direction you want the horse to move the shoulders without crossing the neck with the ‘outside’ rein and opening rein to the inside with soft left pressure right at the girth. Dressage whip should be along the ‘outside’ shoulder to tap until horse moves away from it. The pressure on the outside of the neck and at girth/tapping should stop as soon as the horse steps over or shifts weight in the desired direction. 1 step at a time is excellent progress. 3-4 repetitions each side when you ride will build up very quickly. By day 2 or 3 you should find they are responding to the hand position/leg at girth change without needing the dressage whip.

  • Once they are comfortable moving the pieces calmly. Add 10m circles walk, ask for spiraling out/stepping with soft inside leg pressure at girth, sit more on the outer seat bone. Hands neutral, outside leg neutral.

  • Add walking serpentines and/or shallow loops, even contact. Changes of bend from leg only, you should have the neck fill into the outside rein at change of bend if they horse is walking and changing bend through the body. (I’ve been playing this game with myself for years)

Now you should have the pieces all your basic lateral work. If they really understand 2 hand shift left/right controls the shoulders, single leg at girth controls rib cage, leg position behind girth controls hind end position and seat bone/weight controls direction of travel? You can leg yield, shoulder in, haunches in, even start adding walking half pass steps depending on your hand position relative to the shoulder, leg position and just sit/weight/stand in the direction of travel.

I introduce all of it at a walk, confirm it at a walk. I use it daily as warm up, as yoga when they’re muscle tight, to relax them when they get wound up. When I move up to trot? Its there because they understand the ‘buttons’.

It sounds like a lot but the first two parts are 10 min each the first day with 5 min sessions each for 2-5 days to make it no big deal. After those are easy? The 3rd part can be part of basic daily warm up as can the 4th. Once 3 and 4 are easy its just a matter of different combinations to get any lateral move you want. As they build strength and coordination? Add gaits/power. If they ‘lose’ a move? Revisit step 1 or 2 to refresh and you’re good.

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I forgot about this. It’s very effective.

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EVENTUALLY you want to be able to leg yield from the quarter line to the rail. But that is NOT the place to start.

START on the rail, with the shoulder on the rail an the haunches inside ( a few inches to a foot) the track (the same alignment you would use for haunches in, but with the slightly the other way). Start with a slight bend to the outside, but you will eventually want to do it with no bend. Then move along the rail with the shoulders/head on the rail, and the haunches tracking just inside the rail.

Only when you can do that consistently should you start to ask for a leg yield parallel to the rail. I always start that phase going FROM the rail TOWARDS the quarter line. And make sure you aren’t asking for too much sideways movement. I wouldn’t worry much about whether the legs “cross over”.

Great input, thank you.

At what point would you introduce the shoulder-in?

Stop keeping your body square. That indicates to the horse that they should be going straight.

If we think of the leg yield as a part of a 20 meter circle, you want your hips to be turned in the curve of the bend while the inside leg asks for steps to the outside and the outside leg is back, asking for forward.

Adding to Janet’s ideas, I go even more simple. I introduce the leg yield on the circle. Start with a large circle, move inward to a slightly smaller circle and then, maintaining the bend, push the horse to the bigger circle with only the leg (don’t pull).

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Don’t forget to put your weight into your outside stirrup also. The best way to introduce leg yield is to have the horse move over, straighten, move over, straighten, etc. Once the shoulder starts leading, then use your outside rein and supporting leg to straighten. Then outside leg weight in the stirrup, inside leg behind the girth asking gently into the outside rein. Repeat.

Another good tip is to ride the line you want to leg yield first. So on the 1/4 line ride a short diagonal so say you are right rein and turn between A and K. From the 1/4 line ride straight to H. Then you have an idea of the line to take as does your horse.

And don’t worry, that’s totally normal when learning!

I’m getting confused on inside and outside, because different people are talking about yielding different directions.

You’re putting the weight on the “curved” side of the ribcage correct? So, leg yield left, the weight is in the right hip.

Weight in direction of travel.

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I use that exercise too, but it requires an educated seat, to feel if the quarters are tracking sideways, rather than just following the shoulders. Not sure if the IOP has that kind of educated seat.

With the “head to the wall” exercise, you have plenty of visual cues to tell you if the hindquarters are tracking sideways.

In any case, if you get the shoulders leading too much, the primary correction is the outside rein. If you are leg yielding TO the right, your right rein is your outside rein.

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