I had one tank with a 1500w tank heater. I got horse #2, and I separated them and installed a second tank with a 1500W heater on the same circuit. Circuit keeps tripping. If I replace tank #2 with a 260W 16 gal heated bucket will it blow?
TIA!
use this calculator in the attached link… the 1760 watts at 120VAC is 14.667 amps… if the voltage drops to 115vac the amps increase to 15.304 amps
Several factors come into play.
First question are they being plugged into a GFIC outlet.
If so I have had nothing but problems plugging just one heater into these. I stopped using them years ago. Have yet to have a horse be electrocuted. Tank heater have been used for decades before these came into use.
What size wire is run to the tank heater outlets? If the wiring is of recent vintage, yellow is 12-2, white is 14-2, orange is 10-2.
To be clear, if it is direct bury conductors, wire it will be grey with the size stamped on the jacket.
How long is the wire “run”. The distance from the source to the outlet/s. Is this a dedicated line from the breaker box? Which means there is nothing else connected to that wire, supply line.
The longer the “run” the more resistance is encountered, more resistance results in voltage drop and heat. In simple terms the heaters are trying to “pull” demand more power than the wire can deliver. Which cause heat and which is what the breakers is “feeling” and designed to trip when “felt”.
What size is the breaker on the line?
12-2 (yellow) grey if direct bury is usually the standard size used up to X feet of run. I have gotten away with 12-2 and two 1,500 watt tank heaters on a 20 amp breaker with a 1500 foot run with no issues. Even thought the “book” says it shouldn’t work.
“If I replace tank #2 with a 260W 16 gal heated bucket will it blow?”
IME you should have no problem with this arrangement. My winter weather is not much different than yours. I set the heated tubs/buckets on 3" solid foam insulation to create a thermal bridge between the bottom of the of tub and the frozen ground. Cuts down on the amount of power used. You may also be able to get away with using 1000 watt or less heaters in a 50-75 gallon tank. Maybe less. It will save quite a bit of $$ over the course of a winter and use 2 tank heats if needed.
I never could figure out how to keep even 1 1500 watt water heater from blowing my circuit on the coldest nights. Two 16 gallon heated buckets never blew the circuit.
I never had a problem with one tank heater, it is the second that blew the circuit. It is a GFI, but I think that discretion is the better part of valor, and a 16 gallon tub it will be.
Thanks all!
Why oh why don’t they have basic electricity courses for people?
It should be required for living in the US, even if you live in an apartment you need to know this stuff.
And by that, what I really asking for is a recommendation of good YouTube or online course.
Anyone?
And for starting out, a recommendation for a testing meter that can handle small circuitry to house/car circuits.
The bottom line is I am scared of it and won’t touch even jumper cables because of it.
Hijack/rant/plea now over. Thank you 
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K&H makes awesome sinking/floating heaters in 250w, 500w, and 750w.
I have used the 500w in 100g tanks out in the open for several years with zero problems.
Ugh, wish I had seen this before ordering the tub! Will keep in mind if I lose my mind refilling the tub every day. Thanks!
Adding, this trough is in with my old man, so playing with a floating unit should not be a problem.
the second 1500w heater was increasing the amp load to over 25 amps, the inrush amp load would be even greater at start up
Thanks all! Was able to cancel the heated tub order and order the 500W heater. Will let you know if I calculated the ampage successfully. I should be good with 2000W and the 20Amp circuit. Maybe I can even turn on the lights in the barn ;).
Your “discretion” is not a valid one. A lot of people feel the same way.Not because of what they know. Because of what they don’t know. That being are being “fed” fear mongering information, half truths and or a bit of BS. The fact is GFIC were not designed for outdoor use with plug in tub heaters.
I’m not telling anyone what they should or shouldn’t do I am just saying that I know what I am talking about based on years of hands on experience wiring complete houses, barns, and farm infrastructure.
The need for a GFCI on tank heaters is not warranted or needed. Haven’t used them for years. Considering that I have wired up 10 different locations and heaters. With NO issues over the years. The rule of odds speaks for itself. If by some remote chance a heater “electrified” the tank water and he circuit breaker didn’t trip . A horse, animal, human would have to fall in the tank and not be able to get out to get hurt. Considering most horses can sense “stray voltage” will most human most likely wouldn’t feel/notice. I doubt a horse is going to stick it’s nose in an fully “electrified” tank. Common sense can and does save one a lot of time, effort and money.
Too each their own on this. If people were taught the basics of electricity, wiring etc in grade school. They would save themselves a ton of money and worry. But that would seriously lower the income of a lot electricians.
If using, turning on lights in your barn effects the breaker for the heaters or other things. It is not wired correctly. Which is why I asked if supply line to the heaters is a dedicated circuit. Which it should be. Using extension cords for tank heaters is not a good idea. If used make sure the cord is sized correctly it will say 12-2 on it. Even with this size the run, length should be kept as short as possible. Most extension cords are 14-2 or even smaller, 16-2. These should not be used with tank heaters. You can make your own “extension cord” using direct bury (grey) 12-2 wire and buy the “plugs” to attach. Make sure they are the heavy duty type. The weak link when using extension cords is at the plugs, Esp the male end that plugged into an outlet. This interface causes resistance, resistance causes heat build up and loss of power at the other end. The long the run the more resistance, esp with undersized wires. The plug can and does get hot, very hot and can start to melt. The plug, wire can be, will be warm to the touch. But this is normal.
Just to put it in numbers, 20a * 120vac = 2400w
Good electricians account for 80% load, . 8 * 2400w = 1920w
That is generally the safe working load for your circuit. This does not take into any account of lights on the circuit, outlets being used, or longer distances. Every 100ft impedes roughly 22-56w respective of wire gauge.
So, you know mathematically you’re blowing the circuit as its intended.
Side note, please don’t add larger breakers to your panel larger than the safe working load of the wiring gauge. Something… Something fire Marshall… Insurance…
Even if they taught it, the wages would stay exactly the same. For 1, people pay to have their .1acre lawns mowed and are perfectly physically capable, just too lazy. And B, people are generally stupid enough to remember or be inclined enough to get as far as in trouble.
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GT …This works for you Because of the 1500 foot run. The added resistance of 1500 feet of 12 gauge wire throttles the power to less than 20 amps. I truly doubt you are getting a full 1500 watts at the heaters.
Based of et-fig’s post likely 1100 to 1200 watts. (unless your voltage is more than 120) You live close to a substation or generating plant ?
Update! We had super cold temps in the single digits over the last few days, and the two tanks, (one with the 1500 W and one with the 500 W tank heaters) stayed thawed and did NOT trip the circuit breaker!!! Thanks so much everyone for your help!
