We are constructing additional stalls. Our local sawmill has hemlock boards. I’ve read that hemlock is poisonous to horses. Sawmill says not and that way back when all the farmers used hemlock. I’m a little more consciencious than those farmers I guess when it comes to my horses. Are there different types of hemlock, some poisonous, some not. He also says he can cut me pine but it is not as strong. I am using 2x10x10 boards for the back and in between walls. I will use tung(?) and groove for the fronts so no worry there.
Have you checked with your local vet and possibly ag extention? They may be able to clear this up.
I’ve got hemlock flooring for a hay and bedding storage area and I’ve not had problems with the horses getting sick from any hay that was on the bottom layer BUT I also use rails (from post and rail fence) under the bottom layer of hay so there is airflow. Each bale has 2 rails under it, front and back of the bale.
I’ve always heard that hemlock was poisonous. I think 2 x 10 x 10 pine boards should be just fine. I’ve used those and never had a problem.
How cool!
I didn’t know there were hemlock trees.
They are beautiful trees. My family’s camp in NH is surrounded by them.
Western Hemlock trees are native to the PNW. Eastern Hemlock is native to the NE. Hemlock trees are unrelated to Poison Hemlock which is a herbaceous type of plant. The lumber is not poisonous. It is second only to Douglas Fir in the PNW in use as structural lumber.
It is a very high moisture wood. I used to hear it called “Piss wood” in Oregon as it made vwey poor firewood due to the high moisture. I assume you are being offered green wood, not kiln dried lumber? Green hemlock warps as it dries from what I have read. For stall boards it shouldn’t be an issue. It is a decently strong wood from what I have read.
Chicamuxen
We constructed our shelter from rough-cut hemlock.
It is not poisonous, nor does it warp.
It is super tough and in the 6 years we’ve had it, the horses have not once chewed on it.
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Ok, it’s sounds safe. I think I may just ask for the pine though. I was planning to run the boards vertically but now I am thinking horizontally in an effort to try and prevent warping and use a metal strip in the center. The wall is 14’ long.
The 14’ is only one stall, the others are 12’x12’. Which is stronger? Vertical or horizontal and will they still warp at 2" thick? They will be wet when I get them.
I always do horizontal. I think they are more structurally sound that way.
We built our first barn entirely out of rough cut hemlock. It’s fine to use.
I would not use hemlock. No, I don’t worry about poison, but I do find that it is very chewable. The only way it is usable is metal clading applied to all edges and ledges.
And yes, they will warp. and shrink.
My hemlock stalls were built 13 years ago. They have stood up very well and no one has suffered any harm as a result of chewing the boards. I used undressed lumber 2x6s: not fancy but very durable. Warping has been minimal. Regardless as to what type of wood you are using, capping the edges and tops is a good idea. I had sheet metal bent to fit and nailed it on. This was a lot cheaper than putting heavy metal caps on and has worked really well.
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Hemlock would be my last choice. Especially if the boards are not at least 1 1/2 inches thick preferably a full 2 inches. Which can be had if bought from a local mill.
Horses like to chew on hemlock even more then pine. It is also a much more “brittle” board then pine and splinters much easier. Not familiar with all species of hemlock just what we get around here. It is a fast growing tree so its " wood grain" is not tight.
I replaced a couple hundred feet of fencing late last year. The only boards I could get were hemlock at the time. I only use oak. Most of the top boards have been chewed, some halfway through. Where as the rest of the fence that is 11 years old oak looks fine. I always get splinters when hoping over that section of the fence.
The standard in most barns I have been in is 2X8 or 2X6 tongue and groove. Though just plain 2X stock that can be had at any building supply works fine also. Just doesn’t look as good and needs to be “strapped” in the middle.
I’ve never done this but plan to and that is using construction adhesive between each board. A nice thick “bead”. Using the stuff made for “sub floor” installation. It is designed to have a bit of “give”. It should give for much better “shear” strength and keep things from warping without a middle strap. Other then using while the glue is setting up.
My feelings on hemlock is based on my experience with my type of operation and the materials available. Other may feel differently based on their operation and type of hemlock used.
Hemlock does make for very good siding. And is reasonably priced.
If you’re installing the boards horizontally, have you thought of using hemlock boards for all the lower boards and then something tougher, such as oak, for the top rail? That way you’d presumably save some $$ if hemlock is less expensive in your area.
The barn I’m at is made out of oak. It’s so hard you have to drill a hole before you can nail anything in.
Warping seems to have a lot to do with the size of the tree the lumber was cut from as well as the drying. 2x10 will have come from an older tree, so you will be getting the interior grain and you will see a lot less warping than with 2x4s made from young growth.
That being said, Hemlock is only a step away from pine. It’s a soft evergreen. You’d be better off with a hardwood. Aside from the chew factor (and yes, they will start right in the middle, they don’t need an edge) is the kick factor.
27 years ago we fenced with hemlock posts and boards. that fence still looks solid–I no longer own the place so I haven’t stopped to wiggle a post, but last time I saw it it was still in great shape.
I too would go with a hardwood for stall walls.
