Horse Runs Off When Hearing Sudden Noise From Behind

[paintcrossmare]

Hi everyone
I am new to this board though I have “lurked” on these forums for many years. My horse is 9 and generally OK on trails. I mostly trail ride but work on low level flatwork in a field before I go out and also do low level dressage types of things while riding. The bottom line is that I don’t just get on and go, I focus my attention on my riding and ask the horse to work.

She has one very bad habit that I have not been successful at changing. If she hears a noise from behind she will run off, maybe 40 - 50 feet or so, very impulsive. She always comes back to me so she is not “bolting” or running home or anything, she just wants to get away from the scary sound. This has been happening more frequently and I need to change it. Last time she did this she was trotting and then suddenly ran off cross cantering, very bouncy and rough and I came off and suffered a fracture before I could bring her back. Can anyone provide any advise on how to deal with this bad behavior? I do groundwork with her, typical NH stuff incorporating John Lyons and others before I ride her and I lunge her before I ride her to assess mood and movement. However these incidents are out of the blue, not predictable and do occur when we are “working”. As I said she is often working and I do focus on our riding, we don’t just amble along. Thanks!

[Flash44]

Yes, she is bolting. Warwick Schiller has some great videos on youtube - he is pretty clear and concise. I’d do lots and lots of desensitizing with this horse. Maybe recruit a friend once you get into it, and the friend can make noises from various areas while you stay near the horse. Remember to expand your horse’s comfort zone incrementally. I am in the process of becoming a volunteer mounted patrol ranger at my local state park, and my horse has to pass the police assessment test - flares, sirens and lights, gunshots. She is really good minded, but the gunshots really bother her (I’m using a cap gun). So we are working on this gradually and she will now stand there while I fire the cap gun from about 2 feet away.

[Countrywood]

Earplugs? I have never tried them but they do muffle sound, not a cure but can prevent the noise being that loud and scaring her. My horse also mini bolts ( I say that because he does not go far) from sudden noises…noise is difficult as we can’t see it the way we do an object they might spook at.

To be honest I have not done much with my horse about it. I do get him out and about more so he’s better but still has it in him to do that. I found what helped me as a rider, is to not worry about it so much and when he accelerates like that to pretend I am on a polo pony or cutting horse who does that acceleration from 0 to 30 all the time…which helps me ride it out better.

Above suggestion to desensitize is good. There is a /CD sold, not sure if it is Clint Anderson product, of random loud noises to play near horse in stall or in paddock so they get more accustomed to them

[paintcrossmare]

I’d do lots and lots of desensitizing with this horse. Maybe recruit a friend once you get into it, and the friend can make noises from various areas while you stay near the horse. Remember to expand your horse’s comfort zone incrementally.

Thank you Flash44 I do think you said it all. I will check out some of WSchiller videos. I also think at this point she may “have my number”. I was thinking more about what exactly I do after these events. I just do what I was doing before. I think I need to work her much harder after I bring her back so she links hard work with running off. Lots of trot circles, figure 8, serpentines, leg yielding, sidepassing, leg yield on circle, maybe 15 minutes straight of hard work for her. And, interestingly as I thought more about it, it most often happens when “home” is in sight. (Though twice home was not in sight). So, I do think I need to adopt a different approach when I bring her home. Make her work in the paddock, not get off immediately, walk home then walk back out into our 30 acre field, make her stand tied a bit after untacking, those types of things. I do think it is a combination of true fear about noise from behind and a bit of an “I got your number” issue here. I have never really done any true corrections for this behavior under saddle and it has gotten worse. So, thank you for helping me to reflect on these issues and I will do as you say about the desensitizing and watch the videos!

[SuzieQNutter]

The word desensitising left a very bad taste in my mouth a few years back when there were videos of professionals putting pressure on a horse and not dropping it, even when the horse was a qivering shaking mess. By the time those ‘trainers’ had finished you could have sent a lion into the arena and the horse wouldn’t have reacted.

This was because the horse ‘switched off’ and is also why professionals were putting out statements that horses do not know one person from another person.

These horses eventually switch back on when treated with kindness and once again are shying and spooking.

I use Spooky Object Training. This yeaches a horse to stand still if they get a fright.

This is different to trying to stop a horse from reacting to plastic bags by tying plastic bags around their yard to desensitise them to plastic bags.

The difference is that the horse won’t react to bags in their yard. Take them next door and a bag flies over a wheelie bin at their face and they will get a fright and spin to come home.

The spooky object trained horse gets a fright and stands still, no matter where they are. At home. Next door. Anywhere.

John Chatterton is a name for you to google.

[Flash44]

Agree Suzie. I started doing judged trail rides, and do obstacle training (your Spooky Object Training) on a regular basis. Time to get the pool toys out! Once you’ve done some of this stuff, you horse will really become much less looky - after all, what is scarier than a 4’ tall inflatable shark???

OP, I think you need to desensitize her rather than work her harder. If you are having other issues as well, then the Warwick Schiller videos will help you understand how your behavior is processed by your horse, and how your horse may be training you rather than you training your horse. Once you gain your horse’s respect and your horse stays out of your space and responds to your basic ground commands (mostly physical), you can start to desensitize with spooky objects and progress to noises. As you progress, your horse will become desensitized to new object faster and faster. Not as much fun as riding, but your horse will gain a ton of confidence and it will translate to how it reacts to stressful situations while under saddle. Just make up a little program for yourself, commit to working on it on a regular basis, and you will see results.

[paintcrossmare]

Thank you all. I will research some John Chatterton stuff. After thinking more Flash44 I agree the desensitizing is what is needed rather than “working her harder” when it happens. I totally appreciate everyone’s feedback and taking your time to post.

[Melissa.Van_Doren]

You don’t make any mention of tack, but along with desensitizing, you may just need more bit. Making a bigger impression when you say “Stop. Now.” may help her realize running off isn’t acceptable. I’m ALL for the softest bit possible, but since you’ve already been hurt, I wouldn’t feel bad about adding some power to your braking system.

[AgedRider]

I agree that ground work for respect is where to start. That said, knowing you can actually bring your horse to a stop will help a lot of things. You may be transmitting some uneasiness. A stronger bit could help you relax and give your horse more confidence. Once the behavior improves you can go back to a milder bit.

[SuzieQNutter]

@Flash44;8089005

• after all, what is scarier than a 4’ tall inflatable shark???

I can answer that…

A plastic bag comes around the corner of the house and lands on his face while I am tacking up, and he doesn’t bat an eyelash.

Pelicans take off from a dam behind us and their shadows go over us one by one. Nothing.

Trucks, tractors and farm machinery. Nada

Nope the scary thing that is going to eat him is a large coloured hula hoop.

There was no reaction while I was using it. But when I took it off to show it to him. Oh boy. Training had to start again.

[Malda]

My pony has the same problem, and that’s one of the reasons I’m selling him. In the 2 1/2 years I’ve owned him I’ve never been able to work him out of this. It’s unfortunate because he’s great about everything else, he’s just a really, really nice pony. Sometimes I wonder if something happened to him because he has no other issues.

Good luck!

[SuzieQNutter]

Malda it is the quiet horses that usually don’t have the Spooky Object Training. That is their downfall as they don’t get the training as people don’t think they need it and then don’t know it when they actually do get a fright.

Like the horse that was fine until out trail riding and the rider screamed and took their white hat off to swipe at a spider on the horses neck.

Or in my case I didn’t teach it to my boy as he was so quiet - until after something happened one night. I really don’t know what. Maybe a wild dog attacked a pelican down at the lagoon.

He went through a five strand elelectrified with barbed wire fence and then when he came home he hit his knee on a wooden post breaking the post.

As hubby said. He was not walking when he hit that fence. I had seen a cow canter into it that week and be knocked back on her side.

He also said we didn’t have to worry about him leaving us with doing that to come back to us.

We never heard a thin, but he hated birds after that.

[Malda]

That’s just it, he’s not quiet by nature. He’s an Icelandic and they can be very nervous horses. It took over a month for him to get used to the sound of velcro so I could put on his fly mask. He was terrified of the sound of a blanket, and how it felt on his body, so teaching him to wear one took awhile. The list goes on. He’s difficult to train because he’s so nervous and takes a long time to learn anything. The breeder did a good job and I continued his training. But the issue with the noises behind him doesn’t seem workable. His only other issue is that he doesn’t tolt, otherwise this pony is a saint.

What I did: hand walked him while dragging things, using a long string so it was about three feet behind us. Ground drove him while making noise, also kicking balls. Put bells on his hind feet. The local party store is a great place to find things to drag, kick, and make sounds. I spent months doing this and nothing worked.

I really hope it works for the OP, especially if she has a nice horse. Otherwise, don’t hang on to your horse for as long as I did (I have other reasons why I still have him).

[paintcrossmare]

Horse Runs Off-Bit Used

I am using a MylerLevel 2-3 bit, the Myler Forward Tilt Ported Barrel Eggbutt MB36 With Hooks offers some tongue relief. It has a wide, low 1/4" port that’s tilted forward so that pressure is applied to the tongue when the reins are engaged. This bit is legal for use in non-FEI dressage competition. Bit is used with a curb chain. Not sure it actually has “stopping power” but it does assist with vertical flexion.

The horse always comes back to me when I do what I call a “modified calvary rein” in which I secure left rein with knuckles in neck and pull directly up on right rein once or twice. However my goal is to stop this behavior at all times, not simply be able to bring her back. This behavior is dangerous and not acceptable and I have suffered a fracture. Given the bit I use might something like a kimberwick be a better choice (always along with the groundwork and spook training others mentioned as I do not believe in solving behavior problems with tack alone) until I am confident the behavior is changed?

[kcmel]

Nothing to add, but I had to laugh a little when I saw your user name. My percheron/paint cross is quite reactive to sudden noises. Fortunately he doesn’t bolt, but has quite an exaggerated startle response. Good luck with her!

[Snowdenfarm]

In the meantime to prevent further fractures, I highly recommend the RS-tor. You have to order it from England and it is outrageously expensive, but it keeps you in the saddle. You hold it like a crop and it allows you full use of your reins, so other riders never notice it I hold it at all times on the trail. In two years, there has only been one instance where I definitely would have gone off without it. Worth its weight in gold for that one save on rocky ground.

[paintcrossmare]

I will look at the RS-tor. Thank you for the feedback. I was also looking at a suede saddle seat cover to give me more “stick” to the saddle as my seat is a bit slippery. Does anyone have any thoughts on these seat covers? The one I am considering is called “The Other Seat”, website is noted at the bottom of this post. It is basically an attachable suede seat cover. There are a few manufacturers of this product so if anyone has any experience or feedack it is appreciated.

http://www.theotherseat.com/

[SuzieQNutter]

I have no experience with that.

Lunging without stirrups on a school horse - not just once! will get you down in the saddle so as you go with the horse when it shies and stay with it instead of losing balance and coming off.

[Countrywood]

I don’t like seat savers, I had one slip on me and THAT caused a fall, sorry to say (maybe I did not strap it on right but it slipped sideways off the saddle )

Get a sticky stick they sell at tack shops you can rub it on saddle and or breeches for a temporary stick surface, full seat breeches such as FITS with leather or sude help stick as well.

[paintcrossmare]

Sticky Seat Stuff

[QUOTE=Countrywood;8091186]
I don’t like seat savers, I had one slip on me and THAT caused a fall, sorry to say (maybe I did not strap it on right but it slipped sideways off the saddle )

Get a sticky stick they sell at tack shops you can rub it on saddle and or breeches for a temporary stick surface, full seat breeches such as FITS with leather or sude help stick as well.[/QUOTE]

I do hear you, that was my concern as well about the attached suede seat covers. I have read some good things about the stuff to rub on saddles so I do think I will try that. Of course more education on my seat is in order too! Not sure I want to go the full seat breeches route, I have read a lot about their discomfort and how the seat on them behaves differently than the breeches and they get mis-shapen etc. I read good reviews on Saddle Tight or something like that so I will do more checking on this. I am generally not a gadget person but I do think this one makes sense.