Horse seems arena sour/nervous in indoor- would like to do "at liberty"

Hello everyone!
My 5 yo OTTB gets VERY reactive/spooky/nervous whenever we go into the indoor. He will be cool as a cucumber in the aisle, but once we take a single step into the indoor he flips a switch and becomes tense, alert, spooky, jumpy, etc. I’ve recently tried to do “at liberty” work with him, more so to let him explore the indoor while I walk around with him, hoping he would smell things, explore etc, except he blows up, gallops around, and frantically goes to the arena door where he gets very hot. I am not using a lunge whip, or doing anything to spook him. I’m simply trying to get him to realize the arena is not a scary place… I would really like to do “at liberty” and desensitizing work with him, but its SO hard to get him to focus on anything but whats going on outside/around the arena… He bucked me off really bad a few months ago when a horse banged its food bucket in it’s stall, and he blew up at the noise and spooked and bucked. I fell off because it happened so suddenly and randomly. (we were simply leisurely walking. Not trotting/cantering, and he was not spooky or hot before this).

So my question is: what can I do to get him comfortable and feeling safe in the arena? He gets totally and completely worked up, and is a bit gate sour. I really want to work on getting him comfortable, as I think this would help his spookiness. Please note that he is NOT very spooky outside the arena. He is one of the few horses at the barn that don’t get white eyed/panic when I dust the barn and stall fronts, and numerous things have happened (changing high up shop light bulbs on tall ladder in front of his stall for example) that would cause many horses to panic, where he is totally calm and unphased… Ive only noticed the nervousness/spookiness in the arena.

Feed him in the arena, his hay and grain.

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You could treat the arena as another scary thing he has to deal with. Get on, forget the loose rein, but keep a relaxed rein, and stay alert. As part of your walk warm up give him things to focus on, as in turns, circles changes of rein. Keep him focused on you. You focus on him and what you expect him to do, not what you think he may do.

As soon as he is ready, hit the trot, again focus on riding your horse in a forward organized manner. Keep his brain occupied with your wishes, and requests. Plan your moves. Circles and change of rein are your friends. I wouldn’t go for lateral work until he’s soft, and listening

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Is he better if he has company in the arena? My horse (who is not young and is very experienced) stress sweats in the indoor when we are alone and is very spooky. If we have company from another horse, he’s much happier.

I just work through it and try not to stress him out with mentally challenging work, rather just schooling suppleness and obedience. I try hard to ignore the spooking and flinching, but I admit I’m not as good at that as I wish. I tried ear plugs and they helped a little.

Figure out if your horse needs to be busy or to stand and think about things to chill out. My horse want to move around, so I make him do physical things. Some horses might need to do a bit of work, then go in the middle and be petted and talked to.

If it’s a really bad day, like we are alone and it’s so windy the arena is buzzing, I’ll hand walk and then get on. If riding isn’t going well, I’ll get off and just lunge for about 10 minutes and put him away. Mentally, I think it’s better for me to find any way to provide coins in the positive experience bank rather than forcing us both through a tough ride with no relaxation.

If he’s like mine, it’s the things he hears but can’t see that freak him out. I always hand walk for at least two laps of the arena in each direction before I get on, so if there’s anything weird going on outside, we are both aware of it. I use a sound-deadening bonnet in the winter, largely because of the snow sliding off the roof, and we go to focused work as soon as we can when I get on. Which means bending and flexion and listening to me rather than the rest of the world, even at a walk.

It’s been quite tough the last few months as we are rehabbing and I don’t need him leaping around, but so far we have survived…

I do have one that, in his youth, was in an indoor when the roof blew off. He never really got over it and when the wind blows, he’s no fun whatsoever to ride indoors.

I wouldn’t let him loose if he gets himself worked up. If he lunges politely, I would let him get some energy out that way. You can do in hand work if riding is too tricky. Aside from lunging, you can do trick training, clicker training, some natural horsemanship stuff… And I did use treats which motivated my horse.
My spooky guy was better when riding if I kept him mentally busy. So we did lots of circles, serpentines, changes of gait, etc. I didn’t casually walk - I might let him have a longer rein at the walk, but he had to march and I kept changing directions to keep him occupied.

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Things can look a lot different to him when you are on his back vs. when you’re not. If he hasn’t learned to work at liberty I doubt that there’s much you could do on the ground to overcome his issues. If he flips out after the first step through the door, don’t ask him to do more than that. In and out, in and out until he’s comfortable, then ask for a 2nd or 3rd step. Don’t ask him to go too far from the door. Gradually work on bending and changes of direction as you move farther into the arena. Love on him and stroke him and tell him he’s a good boy when he tries. Stop when he is in a good place. Don’t expect him to overcome this in one session.

The scariest part of our indoor is the ghost corner which is farthest from the aisleway door. Some new horses need to work their way into that corner before they get over it. I have a spooky horse and landed hard many times because he couldn’t tolerate any sound from the other side of the wall dividing the barn from the arena when the building was new. He got over it but it took patience. The remaining problem is snow and ice sliding down the roof on a warm day. I’ll pass before I’ll take that challenge.

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If I got bucked off and hurt from a walk in a relatively safe environment, I’d personally be leery of riding him down in a scary one - but that’s because I’m old and out of shape : )

I suggest shelving the idea of liberty work for now, and for the purpose you describe. Liberty work is for horses and humans to build communication and strengthen a bond, not a free-for-all-mach1-orbit-lazy-man’s-longe-school – they can get hurt badly quickly, not to mention really do a number on the footing.

Because I no longer bounce easily, I teach my horses to have confidence in me. This way, when I do something stupid in the future, they can cover my sorry behind and forgive me. Here is my recipe for wimpy out of shape riders like me:

I would set myself up for success by doing a slow, steady progression of easy trust and confidence building exercises. First on the ground, then ridden.

I would prepare a list of about a dozen SIMPLE tasks Dobbin can do easily and successfully on the longe, and in hand. Having both types of tasks is key. Of course, the tasks should be on par with his skill level - easiest tasks that are still tasks, but very easy to do. For instance, trot a circle then stop. Or walk a half circle, let me approach you while you stand, do 1/4 turn on the forehand. Or trot to halt transition, etc. In hand, maybe pick up a foot by word command, or back on an arc 3 steps (straight back isn’t a good option as some horses can use that against you in the future), or two steps of shoulder in, etc. Very easy stuff.

In a safe area where Dobbin is happy, I would start longing with the goal to teach the first 4 things on the list. No fast rules, if #2 is problematic for some reason, just jump to the next easy task (thats why you have a big list). Have a significant reward for each time Dobbin does well - whatever suits the horse best, be it a treat, or praise or scritches.

Practice this to the point that Dobbin anticipates the task and also the reward. Let him figure out the game, know exactly what is coming up, what he has to do, and what he gets. The reward should be good enough that he’s eager to perform and very interested in his reward. The more consistent you are (standing in the same place, asking for the same task at the very same place on the circle, stopping and rewarding in the same place, etc.) the faster he will learn.

Once he is doing the tasks virtually on autopilot, take him to the indoor.

Do this on a day that you have the place to yourself - but don’t feel the need to minimize the spooks (ie, if there is snow sliding off the roof or squirrels in the rafters, so be it, might as well rip the whole band-aid off).

If the entrance to the indoor is in proximity to your happy longing place, that’s an extra bonus.

Walk Dobbin up to the entrance of the indoor. Stop and look into the indoor, and then immediately walk away. Do this twice. Then walk up, pause for a bit, then walk away. Then walk up, pause longer, then walk away. If he’s calm to the point of boredom, walk him up to the entrance and walk in without stopping or looking, walk only as far in as you can safely and smoothly turn around and walk right back out again. If he flips out, pretend it isn’t happening, do NOT console him. If he calms immediately down, do it again. If he’s upset, go to your happy longing place and do some tasks with rewards until he’s chill.

Do the walk in - walk out until he can handle going in and out without flipping his lid. As he gets calmer about it, walk further in. But the trick is to be smooth and don’t stop and don’t respond to antics, no cooing, no coddling, no admonishing - walk him in walk him out, but only go as far as he can handle. Bonus points to you if you can sense he’s going to get excited before he actually does and turn him around and walk him out just as he’s thinking about getting upset.

When you can make it halfway into the indoor, then up the ante by stopping and standing in the middle. Let him look around but don’t longe. If he starts to walk off, immediately start leading him out of the arena. Let him think it was your idea to leave.

When you can ask him to stand in the middle and he tries hard for you to be a good boy, then ask him to do one of his simple in-hand tricks and give him a monster reward. See how far you can go by asking for the task again and again and keep rewarding him. Depending on how many tasks he’s learned, keep asking and rewarding. Depending on how smoothly things flow, start longing and doing your longe tasks and rewards. If he gets scared on the longe, calm him down safely, bring him into to and ask for his in-hand task and reward.

The tasks he’s learned are his mental safe place. He has learned through repetition performing those tasks is being obedient and obedience is a happy place to be mentally. He has confidence in his ability to do them, and knows exactly what he’ll get in return. He in turn looks to you as a good leader because he is being obedient to you in return for protection from the boss mare (or gelding, I don’t know who you are!) - you are leading his brain from distress to happiness.

Once you are mostly on a good wave length and can longe and perform your tasks and both feel confident, then try riding. Again ask for only simple things from the saddle and reward big. Don’t get mad at him for being scared, and don’t baby him either, expect him to learn to have confidence in you.

This whole ordeal may seem glacially slow, and it is, but going slow in the beginning usually translates to achieving more faster later on.

Good luck!

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Buck22 has some good advise. Aim for small successes. If your horse happily hacks out of the indoor then start your ride outside. Have a good warm up and put him to work for a good 10-15min. Once he’s relaxed then take stroll over to the indoor. Don’t insist on going in on the first try just try to hack to and away from the entry. I personally would make a whole week of this routine asking for more each day (take a step in and circle back out) get his attention and circle back toward the indoor. Kinda like teaching a horse to hack out alone. Build confidence slowly.

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Lots of good advice but the general theme is to get him accustomed to entering and bring in the arena VERY slowly. And be careful, too

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This horse needs structure and as Buck22 eluded to- small success to build confidence on. Freedom is earned from being a responsible and trustworthy citizen. Right now, he cannot handle that and needs guidance and direction from you. Personally, I would enlist the help of a trainer to work through these issues. I think you can create small successes to make the arena less scary but it will take some time. I also personally love Smartcalm Ultra and it has helped by horse chill out amazingly well. Feeling less anxious, may lead to less anxiety and hopefully break the cycle once he enjoys some success under some very disciplined guidance, both in and out of saddle.

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I agree with shelving the idea of liberty work. Right now, I suggest teaching him that he is working with structure in the indoor, and most horses like that structure.

I suggest doing groundwork he already knows. For example, walk in hand-stop-walk-stop-back up, trot, walk, etc. so he has to pay attention to you but the requests are easy. Longe him in the indoor but put poles on the ground plus some other things to keep his attention. Maybe he only walks and trots the first few times. Reinforce voice commands and use them fairly frequently. Key-leave the indoor when your horse is good and calm, even if this is 30 seconds into the work in the beginning. Stay calm and patient yourself. Let him understand it’s just another place to do work.

Buck22 has a good post and explains building confidence.

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That’s the thing, he was lungable and I could handle his antics BEFORE his training rides. He got two months of training with my trainer. He became reactive and argumentative after those rides. He will now bolt while lunged, didn’t have that problem before. I plan to deal with all of that, but I think his anxiety towards the indoor would prevent us from working through the other stuff. I figured if I got him comfortable/trusting, that would make fixing everything else much easier.

This is the first you have mentioned a trainer…if this is the case, then you need to find someone new who is calm and firm and who doesn’t get riled up by the horse’s antics. He needs calm energy so perhaps your prior trainer just made him anxious and edgy because of how he/she handled him. This horse needs to learn to trust. Trust that he can be calm and he doesn’t need to be so keyed up. Trust takes a long time to build back once it’s been damaged.
Find a new person to work with and start slow with him.

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It sounds like there are a few things going on here. First, he may have been pushed to hard or overfaced by the trainer. No way of knowing, but the symptoms are there. Second, an indoor on a cold day is hard on most TB’s. Mine has as good a mind as you can ask for and he has days when he can’t keep himself together in the indoor when it gets below a certain temperature.There are monsters in there.

I’m thinking your horse needs to know he’s safe and have something to do besides look for monsters. Free longing is out. It sends him away from you, the very thing he is looking to to stay safe, (you). Think dressage training scale, rhythm and relaxation. Nothing else can happen without those two things. If this were my horse, I would keep things very predictable for him. Saddle him up the same time every day for a ride, even if you have zero plans of mounting. Hand walk him around the indoor a few times to show him you are not afraid of anything, so he can build on that.

To keep him mind focused, use either orange cones (the little tiny ones in the camping section of Walmart) or ground poles, if he’s already used to them. Set them up on as large a circle as you can make, placing them at 3, 6, 9, 12 o’clock. Try to set them up somewhere where he won’t be near any doors or see anyone walking by. Think as quiet an area as possible. First hand walk him through or over depending on which you set up. This gives him something to look at instead of searching for monsters. Watch for signs of relaxation such as him lowering his head, breathing out, chewing, etc. If he seems interested in the game, try it mounted at the walk. The split second you get on, head for the clock and walk over it until he’s finding it more interesting than the monsters. Depending on his individual personality, he may stay more engaged at the trot than walk, but that’s for you to figure out. Some horses relax by doing the same speed over and over again, Others respond better to more mixing up of speed, so they benefit more form a ton of W/T transitions. Remember to not over do it. You goal is a relaxed horse. It might take 5 minutes, it might take 40. Once you get it, reward him and end your ride, or walk if you did it all from the ground. The idea is to build upon previous good experiences. Never do this unless you have time to finish it.

Hope this helps.

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Post some video. Much can be seen that may help determine the issue

Try earplugs. The $2 cat toys are great.

I think more than just dulling sound they have an accupressure point or something for some horses, bc in some horses it really is almost a tranq.

A lot of good suggestions shared already! Where I board, it seems like all of the horses get the winter “sillies” in the indoor (even the older, should-know-better horses!) It’s usually about the back door of the arena (which is closed in the winter—apparently in horse code that means that puma’s are now lurking just behind there!) A few people use ear plugs like meupatdoes suggested–they say it helps a lot.

Is your horse better when there are other horses in the arena with him? He is probably less reactive in the barn aisle because he has some buddies nearby.

Also, as horses have become more confirmed in their training—you can ride them through it better. I have a 5 year old too, and last winter, when she was 4, and I wasn’t able to keep her attention as well. This winter, she is more “on the aids” and I can do exercises or figures that keep her focused on me. Sometimes I start out at the “safe” side of the arena for a few minutes until she is well connected, and then I start to expand my riding closer to the “scary” side. Then we keep expanding the places we go, until we are using the entire space. That being said, she is comfortable being ridden alone, whereas your horse sounds more anxious about being separated and not being able to see other horses.

On, windy days (which are usually spook inducing) I will set up some cavaletti (something interesting, not just a line of poles) and I will work over that to keep them focused. If you don’t feel comfortable riding him over these, you could do groundwork, leading him over and through the exercises.

Lastly, I wouldn’t do any “free” work unless it’s ground work like Buck22 described. I don’t think letting them wahoo around the arena is productive at all. My mare is pretty well behaved for her age, but is much more likely to have a little bronc session when being lunged than under saddle. Everything should be about getting them to focus on you and not on whatever is scaring them (or distracting them).

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Never,never, never let a horse tear around an indoor. You’ll tear up the footing and risk him tearing up himself as well.

Can you get to the barn more than once a day short term?

If so, I would hand walk him for 5 minutes 3x per day. Spend the time keeping him focused on you. Lots of walk-halt-walk and change of direction. Keep things mixed up enough that he has less time to look for things to spook at.

Keep the sessions really short so he doesn’t have time to escalate.

Keep doing this until you see improvement and then go from there.

If this doesn’t work, seek professional help. From a different professional. Try to focus on one that restarts horses from the track.

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sigh… you don’t say how he was in the indoor before the trainer? Is the trainer at the facility? Were you present for “training”? His anxiety, is also symptomatic for a horse who is honestly scared. You turn him loose wanting him to hook up and do liberty work (what does that mean) and in so doing… leave him alone to be afraid. Wrong. He needs YOU to be the leader and show him that the indoor is not a bad place. YOU go and explore with him on a long rope/lunge line (and gloves). Every thing he is afraid of… you go and touch and pat, and then envite him to see and touch. Be with him… let him “hide” behind you. (Yes… they will try this) When he manages his fear and listens to you, reward him. Its not about him forgetting manners… its about YOU understanding that he reacts because he is honestly afraid. You have to get through that fear and survival instinct. And while you’re at it… you find out what the “Trainer” did.

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