How do you keep grass under the fenceline/around fenceposts under control?

[gumtree]

For those who have suggest just mowing with a zero turn must not have read the OP’s post fully. They have 5 MILES of fence line. Yes, on about a mile of our fence line I mow under the line and then come back and use my commercial grade line trimmer. Mowing a fence is slow going to be effective. You can’t just zip around like mowing a yard. 5 miles will take a considerable amount of time. And you will probably have to start all over again when you finish the last mile. Unless the season goes dry. Most of us who run large farms for a living don’t have a lot of free time unless we are lucky enough to have the income to support a full time maintenance crew.
Round Up would not be my choice for the same reason that others have said. Given a bit of time the grass will grow back. Why, because it is supposed to by design. Read the label it says to give X amount of time before replanting. Most grasses are spreading type through their root system. Which is why a weedy paddock will fill in with grass when board leaf weeds are killed off. Once Round Up has dissipated and the soil returns to it natural balance grass and or weeds will grow there. Ground clear is far more effective. But even that will dissipate given time. Ground Clear should only have to be used once a season where as Round Up will need several applications each season. Round Up was developed for commercial crop growing. It will kill off the weeds and other unwanted plants and then dissipate so farmers can plant their crop.
Diesel does work but it to does not last very long. Diesel kills by contaminating the soil with an oily film. The reason plants will grow back given time is Diesel is heavy and sinks, washes down into the soil. It has a very large soil contamination plume meaning it spreads as it sinks into the soil. Herbicides do not contaminate the soil to any where near the same extent. It kills off plants by being adsorbed into the plant and breaking down its cellular structure. Or something like that. It is basically a type of salt. It doesn’t smother the plant like Diesel. You don’t have to soak the soil with a herbicide.
I won’t get into a diatribe over the use of herbicides. I am good with how I feel about the judicious use of. Though I will over the use of Diesel.

As always to each their own. This is based on my experience in my neck of the woods. Believe what you want throw out what you don’t.

[gumtree]

I would not use Round Up as explained in my post before this one. Ground Clear would be my first choice. I bought a 15 gallon spot sprayer for $80 it has “alligator clips” that you clip to the battery of what ever you are using. We have a modified gas golf cart with a lift kit, strong engine and rear deck. It fits on there just fine. I adjust the spray gun to a very narrow spray and just drive along. I don’t really like the “look” of the “brown” line under the fence though. To each their own on this. I have seen or had any problems with erosion. We have some hilly areas but not steep and we get a good amount of rain. I understand what you are saying and it would all depend on your terrain and weather conditions. As I said in my other part even Ground Clear will dissipate and roots will grow back. Now, if you are clearing/killing off a wide area under the line this maybe become problematic depending on terrain. Your part of Virginia is known for having a lot of red clay in the soil which resists erosion.

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=BCGirl;7047576]
Gumtree- we are very happy and lucky!

Thanks for the suggestions! I am not totally opposed to using RoundUp (or a cheaper version of it). Of course, I prefer to avoid herbicides, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. My only concern with them is that I have come across some talk on here of ending up with erosion and washout on hills where you have sprayed it as there is no longer any root structure to keep the soil in place. This makes sense and is my main concern with going the RoundUp route.

I will do some more checking into the Dr Power attachment, I just wish I could find someone who has one! It seems really silly there aren’t more of these on the market; especially with all of the organic farmers out there now…maybe they use sheep and goats?[/QUOTE]

I would not use Round Up as explained in my post before this one. Ground Clear would be my first choice. I bought a 15 gallon spot sprayer for $80 it has “alligator clips” that you clip to the battery of what ever you are using. We have a modified gas golf cart with a lift kit, strong engine and rear deck. It fits on there just fine. I adjust the spray gun to a very narrow spray and just drive along. I don’t really like the “look” of the “brown” line under the fence though. To each their own on this. I have seen or had any problems with erosion. We have some hilly areas but not steep and we get a good amount of rain. I understand what you are saying and it would all depend on your terrain and weather conditions. As I said in my other part even Ground Clear will dissipate and roots will grow back. Now, if you are clearing/killing off a wide area under the line this maybe become problematic depending on terrain. Your part of Virginia is known for having a lot of red clay in the soil which resists erosion.

[csaper58]

Herbacide use has led to major erosion problems in our area. Mostly where the ground is not flat, or horses pace the fence.

[cowboymom]

Why not leave it? It creates a visual barrier to the fence and horses will nibble what they can. Unless you have a low electric wire that it will impede I’d just leave it.

Round-up or glyphosate will not work if it’s applied at the wrong time or at the wrong strength or at the wrong temperature. And for some weeds a surfactant is necessary. All that paperwork attached to the jug means something.

There is a chemical that is glyphosate plus a chem that is a residual that would keep working all year-the name of it has left my brain however.

[Guilherme]

Part of using RoundUp correctly is correct strength, temperature, application technique, etc. Surfactant is not required but grossly increases the effectiveness of the mixture.

Note, too, that RoundUp came to market in 1970 and went off patent in 2000. It is likely the most studied herbicide in history. In 43 years nine no one has yet determined a provable danger when the product is used correctly. So-called “studies” are actually case studies of fear, innuendo, and junk science.

RoundUp is NOT a “ground sterilizer.” It will kill what is there now but needs reapplication to kill what will grow tomorrow. If it does not kill grass the it was not applied correctly. If it was applied correctly and the grass did not die then call your Extension Agent and state officials to come and atudy your resistant grass. First, of course, retain a patent lawyer and patent the resistant strain of grass!

G.

[trubandloki]

[QUOTE=gumtree;7048739]
For those who have suggest just mowing with a zero turn must not have read the OP’s post fully. They have 5 MILES of fence line. Yes, on about a mile of our fence line I mow under the line and then come back and use my commercial grade line trimmer. Mowing a fence is slow going to be effective. You can’t just zip around like mowing a yard. 5 miles will take a considerable amount of time. And you will probably have to start all over again when you finish the last mile. [/QUOTE]

I have to disagree with you on this.

It might be slow going for you, but my Mr. Trub zips right along. The trick is having a mower deck that is wider than your wheel base and knowing your mower.
The amount of swerving is minimal at the fence posts and it is very much a rhythm and again, not slow. Having watched him do this many times I think he goes the same speed doing the fence line as he does the lawn.

And yes, file miles of fencing is quite a bit, but mowing it would be a task you do not have to do every week.

[fordtraktor]

I actually like to leave the grass and kill the weeds/vines/etc. because the grass does not grow high enough to short out the electric on my fence, but the weeds and vines do. So I use something like Forefront or Pasture Pro/GrazeOn. I have field fence with a string of electric on top, though, so I don’t mind the extra barrier look.

In a dream world I would replace it all with 4 board and acquire a paddock boy to weed eat it all, but I don’t have the time to do it myself. For you, I would weed eat areas close by the barn that boarders will see constantly and roundup the less visible areas.

[fatappy]

I don’t know if this is an option, it may not be for a multitude of reasons. I can think of a few off the top of my head… but I’ll throw it out anyway…

I think pine needles under fences looks beautiful. I have seen it in some yards and am just smitten with it. Anyway - just a thought. I only have to weed eat 250 feet. You have my sympathies.

[lorilu]

You can mix the glycophosphate (round up) a bit stronger than normal if you don’t want to use ground-clear. I do this because it seems the weeds are tough here in Ocala. If you read the label, you will see various strengths/dilutions for various applications. PLEASE do NOT use diesel - it will contaminate the soil, and leach into the groundwater.

Leaving the weeds will result in posts rotting more quickly, due to dampness around them from dew/etc.

L

[Equibrit]

Fence line mower; http://www.butlerent.com/mrfenpic.htm

http://www.fencemower.com/products_fm60.asp

http://www.washburncompany.com/fencerunner1.htm

I have this; http://www.agrisupply.com/point-gallon-sprayer/p/32249/&sid=&eid=/

[cssutton]

I expect your pastures are hilly. Trying to mow close to the fence as some suggest will result in your tractor siding into the fence on the steep grades.

Get a spray tank, mount it on your three point hitch. get an adjustable spray hand held like the orchard people use to spray fruit trees.

Set the nozzle for a narrow cone and do your 5 miles in about one hour.

A narrow cone will leave plenty of plant and root structure on either side which will reduce any erosion to the minimum.

Hint.

Not only will Roundup kill grass, grass is one of the easiest of all plants to kill.

But another really good use for Round-up is to spray those branches that push your fence.

I ride around my pasture and spray the trees and brush that are forever growing against the fence. The small trees die. The large trees do not die, but the branches that are overhanging the fence will die.

That is a lot easier than walking your fence line with a bush axe.

[ReSomething]

[QUOTE=TheJenners;7048361]
. . .
However, DH’s BO’s DH was mowing the other day and a neat contraption on his face, it was like a construction helmet with a flip down clear plastic face shield. I could maybe weed eat in that.[/QUOTE]

Comes with ear muffs for noise control too. DH uses his religiously but hates it. The strapping inside the helmet gives him a headache and it is too hot. So it’s not perfect.

[HungarianHippo]

[QUOTE=ReSomething;7053597]
Comes with ear muffs for noise control too. DH uses his religiously but hates it. The strapping inside the helmet gives him a headache and it is too hot. So it’s not perfect.[/QUOTE]

Maybe try a bug net

[Pennywell_Bay]

I used goats when I had 2x4. They kept those weeds and grass down perfectly. Around here. they seem to spray about 6 inches on both sides of the fenceline. I guess they keep the horses off it until it starts to die. No clue because my goats keep my weeds GONE.

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

We have a DR powertrimmer on two wheels. It isn’t THAT easy to push–it is a heavy duty little beast, but it weighs accordingly. I can’t imagine weed-eating miles of fence. We mow and then spray a long-lasting herbicide. Mowing isn’t so bad, because it is only a few acres, vs. miles.

I did raise my no-climb high enough to mow under on COTH advice…that was good advice–thank you to whomever gave it.

[LauraKY]

[QUOTE=morganpony86;7047942]
This is what I do. And weedeat around the posts.

Effective? Perhaps. Safe? It hasn’t been proven that it’s safe. Detrimental effects are still not clear, but here are a couple links to recent studies… (1) (2)
Epidemiology studies do not see any connections yet (here and here). So to each their own in terms of what you want to believe. Just as you don’t want people broadly saying it’s unsafe, you should be careful broadly saying it is safe.[/QUOTE]

DDT was safe until it wasn’t. That being said, I do use Round-Up on my gravel driveway.

[neversaynever]

[QUOTE=lorilu;7050554]
PLEASE do NOT use diesel - it will contaminate the soil, and leach into the groundwater.

L[/QUOTE]

^^^
THIS! Please don’t. We have enough water problems in this country without adding to them.

[Libby2563]

[QUOTE=qtrhrslvr;7048402]
I was told just today that a spray of white vinegar will make everything in it’s path shrivel and die. I did smell the vinegar along the stone path I was walking but there were no weeds or grass.[/QUOTE]

I can attest to this! Two days ago I sprayed some unwanted grass with a vinegar-based recipe I found here on COTH (1 gallon vinegar, 1 cup salt, 1 tbsp dish soap) and less than 24 hours later the grass was brown and dry! It worked faster than Round Up, costs less, and is probably a lot less carcinogenic etc. Long-term effectiveness remains to be seen. I’m not sure it will retard new growth, but at least it takes care of what’s already there. I will say it did a much better job on grass and other thin-bladed things than it did on weeds with thick or broad leaves.

[Red_Barn]

I’m one of those lunatics whose “agenda” includes not pouring poison onto her land, so I use the weed whacker under wooden fences, and the rider mower under the electric rope fences. In the later case we do have to loosen and raise the lowest strand, but that’s not nearly as difficult as it sounds.