We use a combination of sheep, weedeating and herbicides. Weedeating is time consuming and not the most pleasant work, and if I didn’t have workers to do it I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t be out there doing it myself. But, I hate the herbicides because where we are it is easy to end up with erosion under fence lines–that can happen after one strong rain on a hillside line of fence. Also, after you stray with herbicides the stuff that grows back isn’t the grass that you killed–all kinds of weeds start growing so you are obligated to use herbicides again. The sheep are the best, but there usefulness is limited by the fact that they need a little bit tighter fencing than horses.
Hm. We have been using a string trimmer for it. My rental resident pitches in with the string trimming - he’s quite good at it from learning as a summer job. I’m bad at it and it either takes me too long or I scour the fence posts and spray dirt and rocks around. He hits the posts every 2nd or 3rd mowing and trims low.
That push trimmer looks like it would be beastly to constantly maneuver. I think a lightweight straight shaft trimmer (easy to use and articulate) or no trimmer at all.
If I had 5 miles of it to maintain, I’d spray with a long-lasting chemical once or twice a season. The manual work + gasoline powered tools just doesn’t add up for me and my sense of aesthetics.
When mowing, a zero-turn is not the answer, but it can minimize the problem. Just make sure the mower deck is wider than the wheels, so that you can slide the deck under the fenceline and around each post. Due to the ejection chute I can only mow fences using the left side of the mower. It takes some skill and slows you down but it can work.
[QUOTE=Guilherme;7048911]
Part of using RoundUp correctly is correct strength, temperature, application technique, etc. Surfactant is not required but grossly increases the effectiveness of the mixture.
Note, too, that RoundUp came to market in 1970 and went off patent in 2000. It is likely the most studied herbicide in history. In 43 years nine no one has yet determined a provable danger when the product is used correctly. So-called “studies” are actually case studies of fear, innuendo, and junk science.
RoundUp is NOT a “ground sterilizer.” It will kill what is there now but needs reapplication to kill what will grow tomorrow. If it does not kill grass the it was not applied correctly. If it was applied correctly and the grass did not die then call your Extension Agent and state officials to come and atudy your resistant grass. First, of course, retain a patent lawyer and patent the resistant strain of grass! 
G.[/QUOTE]
Exactly. Just worth restating. 
- Agronomist, Certified Pesticide Applicator, and Chore Girl
I use a string trimmer on wheels, works kind of like a push mower, for cleaning under my farm fences. It uses a very heavy string, so it can trim a lot of stuff before you break the string and have to replace it. Strings are cut to length, not a spool feeder like the carry type trimmers.
I have both a DR trimmer which is kind of old, and a Craftsman model from Sears that are used here. I like the DR, just seems to need a bit more attention to keep it going and not clogging the belt. Could be the older design of this model I bought used, with newer models being better. Starts easily, string is easy to put on for replacing. I do like the high wheels, mine have metal spokes like an old style kid tricycle did. Wheels roll easily over ruts, rough ground, sturdy to push if one gets stuck in a hole.
The Craftsman push weed trimmer is also a nice machine. Lighter, VERY easy to start. My friend liked mine so much she went home and bought one for her place! This one also has high wheels, but they are plastic, not quite as sturdy, though I have not broken one. Same kind of string arrangement for the pieces of cutting string. The new model my friend got has an easier string loop style, faster to put new strings in. They cut like nobody’s business, no weight on your body like the stick-type string trimmers. Just like walking along the fence, cutting everything in the reach of the strings. Using the push handle helps keep your body even, not sore after using this push machine.
I do a LOT of fence, we have about 5 miles worth on the 14 acres. Usually need one pass with the trimmer, then I spray the ‘fake’ Round-up to keep things from coming up under the wire. I may need to spray twice a year, but this works quite well for us. No severe hills to erode, so the bald look is fine for me. Heavy pasture grasses catch rain run-off, dirt is clay and stays put.
If you read Herbicide labels, look for Glycosophate as the chemical you want. This is the main ingredient in Round-up, not protected anymore by Patent. So purchasing a store-brand herbicide with Glycosophate in the mix, will probably be MUCH cheaper than buying Round-Up brand name herbicides. Mix according to directions before application. DO NOT spray this Herbicide over water, ponds, running ditches, drains, creeks or rivers, lake sides. The Glycosophate will kill the good plants in the water or water system it drains into, throwing off the natural balance to promote weeds and unwanted plant growth in the water.
If you need to spray water, use Lariat, the water use product for weeds.
Round-up, Glycosophate, will start breaking down on the plants that were sprayed pretty fast, be mostly ineffective within 24 hours, which is why it is a good product to use for NOW, not leaving residue in the soil for months or years.
I mix my herbicide a bit strong, see the effect working within a few days. Spraying on HOT days seems to make it work even faster, so the yellowing, dying weeds are visible pretty quick.
Nothing does the cartoon type of death scene, which was kind of disappointing when I first started spraying!
Wear protective gear. Face mask for the weed trimmers, whether you push them or use the stick-types. Flying debris WILL cut you, take out a tooth pretty easily. I got my face mask made for polishing things, clear plastic front, covers my whole face, adjustable head band. The safety glasses were NOT enough coverage and got steamed up on hot days. Face mask is never steamy, very protective. I do wear a broad brimmed hat with chin string over the top, keeps junk out of my hair, gives me some shade. Ear plugs or ear muff type covers are a MUST. Check for the best protection rating before choosing. Ear muffs pinch my jaw behind my ear, can’t tolerate them, so I use ear plugs. My ear plugs actually rate higher than the ear muff rating. Gloves and long sleeves recommended to prevent debris hitting you, ticks falling on you. I got some old chambray shirts, cotton, that work without overheating me while trimming or spraying my fences.
A clean fence is a HOT fence, keeps the horses from getting in trouble.
You must have a lot of small paddocks on those 14 acres.
[QUOTE=goodhors;8203199]
…I do a LOT of fence, we have about 5 miles worth on the 14 acres…[/QUOTE]
I can’t imagine how many paddocks it would take to have 5 miles of fence on 14 or 25 acres… Hell, we only have 4 miles of fence on 640 acres (1 section).
[QUOTE=moving to dc;8203252]
I can’t imagine how many paddocks it would take to have 5 miles of fence on 14 or 25 acres… Hell, we only have 4 miles of fence on 640 acres (1 section).[/QUOTE]
I think their math is a little off. If the 14 acres were in a “square” it would measure roughly 780’ X 780’. The perimeter fence line would measure 3,120’.
5 miles is 26,400. That would leave 23,280 feet of fencing to “fill in” the 14 acres with paddocks. With each fence being 780’ long there would be enough fencing to build 30 “lines”. 15 "lines in one direction and 15 to cross fence. There would be 225 paddocks measuring 52’ X 52’. If my math is correct. I am not a math major. So a “fact” check would be in order.
There are 43,360 square feet in a acre.
Maybe they really, really believe in rotational grazing? 
(That said, if the contractor billed them for 5 miles, he or she’s got some 'splainin to do.)
[QUOTE=gumtree;8203547]
I think their math is a little off. If the 14 acres were in a “square” it would measure roughly 780’ X 780’. The perimeter fence line would measure 3,120’.
5 miles is 26,400. That would leave 23,280 feet of fencing to “fill in” the 14 acres with paddocks. With each fence being 780’ long there would be enough fencing to build 30 “lines”. 15 "lines in one direction and 15 to cross fence. There would be 225 paddocks measuring 52’ X 52’. If my math is correct. I am not a math major. So a “fact” check would be in order.
There are 43,360 square feet in a acre.[/QUOTE]
I couldn’t resist, and checked this. You’re very close. The grid looks twice as fine as a checkerboard.
David
[QUOTE=DHCarrotfeeder;8204530]
I couldn’t resist, and checked this. You’re very close. The grid looks twice as fine as a checkerboard.
David[/QUOTE]
LOL, that’s I how I felt when I read “I can’t imagine how many paddocks”.
There is the possibility of the “paddocks” being “double fenced” which would reduce the number.
A calculator and the internet makes for short work of figuring these things out. Without I would still being working on it.
Never mind - I asked some stupid questions. The OP wasn’t about electric fence…
I think if land is hilly, and the fence follows the turain, that could add significantly to the amount of fencing.
My horses share a pasture with my herd of goats. We never have to trim anything. Spraying would be my second choice.
I just joined this group so I could say THANK YOU!!! My husband and I have a beautiful place in Southern Wisconsin, but we are pretty much on the side of a big hill. Maintaining our fence line is such a big challenge that last night we thought about selling and finding some flat land! Every year about now, I am totally discouraged by the weeds and grass growing up around our fencing. We’ve tried string trimmers (exhausting) and even bought one of the lighter weight DR trimmers that’s self propelled. That’s almost harder than the regular string trimmer. We thought about getting something for the tractor, but in several spots the hill is so steep, it’s dangerous to get close enough to the fence to trim. We never thought about using Roundup! (We did think about goats, but no more animals!!! :eek:)
where ever I want grass to grow I make sure the area is well fertilized, irrigated, and even praying for grass to grow seems to be the kiss of death whereas the cracks in concrete drive can grow abundant grass… never been able to figure this out
So the greater you try to make the grass grow the greater the likelihood it will die
Another method would be to sell a futures contract on the grass production under the fence, it will die for sure then (include a performance guarantee to make sure the grass will die)
