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How hard are donkeys to teach to drive?

I have a six year old donkey who needs a job. She was a rescue who hadn’t been touched as a two year old. She is the first donkey that I have owned, and likely the last :lol:, but she is highly intelligent, and stubborn, as I understand that most are. As an example? She leads just fine, unless she doesn’t feel like it.

I’ve started horses and ponies in harness for decades, driven cross country, on the roads, and shown in rings. I am confident that I can start a horse or pony just fine.

Anything I should be aware of if I decide to take the leap, and buy her a set of harness, and get going?

Thanks!

Hee, hee, you’ve already discovered the difference “Unless she doesn’t feel like it.” :slight_smile:

My standard donkey was 3 and had never had a halter on her when I got her BUT she was a partial bottle fed girl so right off the bat, People = Good things so I kept nurturing her curiosity.

I started by teaching her verbal commands in halter- walk, whoa & wait. Added turning etc. I had to teach her that a tap with a driving whip IS a signal, not me showing displeasure. Donkey’s have a VERY high flash point: think trying to start a fire with diesel fuel instead of gasoline. Look for the “glimmer/spark” and praise it with whatever works for that donkey be it a scratch behind the ears or a treat. However once your donkey is pulling a cart you are going love having that high flash point!

Mine took to the harness and ground driving & dragging dead weight easy peasey. Then I hitched her up and she was good to go. In the beginning I did basic driving and the past two years I’ve worked on her being correct, for a donkey, and our dressage test in CT/CDE reflect the improvement.

Donkeys do NOT do repetition. Period. They do “Donkey time”. Once they understand and execute the exercise you can practice it once or twice more in that session then move on to something else. You might be able to revisit it later during that session but the fastest way to shut down a donkey is to drill something over and over.

A donkey will remember everything, good and bad, so to the best of your ability do it right the first time. Case in point, one time years ago I was in the stall with my donkey and did not secure the stall door so she walked out. Grrr. However, not before that day BUT ever since that day, she always checks a stall door to see if it will push open. :slight_smile:

A donkey is the safest creature to put to a cart in my highly biased opinion. :slight_smile: We aren’t the fastest but we are the steadiest and easiest going pair you will see. Another example, at the marathon portion of the CDE I did last fall I knew I would never, ever make the time so it was just a matter of how far off the time I would be. I was 10 minutes beyond the maximum time and went right to the vet check. My donkey’s pulse and respiration were almost at resting rate coming right off a hilly and challenging course. Donkey time, they are going to take care of themselves, cover your ass if you will.

Go for it and have fun!

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I have trained donkeys and love them. I have not done the cart thing, yet, though. However, pack training and saddle training is not hard if you remember two donkey rules.

  1. Donkeys are smart and love to learn, if you give them a reason to. Whole oats make an easy reward, if you want to carry some around in your pocket. You can use grain, but it’s hard because you don’t want to overfeed them. Take your time teaching some new step. Stop before either of you get frustrated. If you push your donkey, they will shut down. If you hit “donkey shut down”, you’re done for the day. Your donkey will balk with a dull look in their eyes. Learning doesn’t happen at that point. Instead, keep them bright and interested without frustrating them. Take your time and wait for a try. Stop while you’re ahead.

  2. Never drill a donkey. You will ask for something, they will respond, sometimes with a question. Answer all their questions clearly, then, once they do it right; stop. You’re done for the day. Good donkey gets to sleep on it.

What the heck do I mean about answering questions? Well, let’s say you are teaching a young donkey to lead. You pull and the donkey pulls back. Then, he pulls sideways. Then, he tries to drag you. Then, he swings around in front of you. All those moves are questions. Can I do it like this? Or this? Answer calmly and clearly by getting donkey back into position and rewarding what is the right way to lead. Donkeys are like the gifted kids in class. They have to know why.

A great resource in donkey training (and mule training) is Meredith Hodges. Look her up. :slight_smile:

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SLW, just read your post. I’m not the only one that uses the term donkey shut down, lol!

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That sounds like a lot of fun! When I went to teacher to lead I had a dressage whip in my left hand and when she wouldn’t go forward I tapped her with it and she dragged me around! Good times!

She’s highly intelligent but she is all about getting whatever it is she wants. I have a turned out with an older mare and a gelding who had been a rescue. Whenever she tries to take something from him he runs her at a high rate of speed about a half time around the paddock. She actually can run pretty fast!

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Yup, there is nothing quite like having a donkey drag you around, at a walk, at the end of a lead rope. All their power is in their head and neck, IMO. I use a chain over my donkeys nose anytime we are in public and at home if I’m doing something with her that might cause her to balk. She did have a couple sessions with the chain lead rope at home to learn what it meant. Now, anytime it’s used she walks willingly with me. If she does try to “drop and drag” me the chain quickly stops the behavior. :slight_smile:

On another note today it was sunny and warm, the calm before snow moves in on Sunday, so I took my donkey for a drive in the row crop field across the street. It was heavenly. Mostly walked just to soak up the day but then I tosses in some trotting and cantering just for fun!

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She was just short of her second birthday according to the place where I found her when I got her. So, I didn’t put a chain on her because oh my gosh I didn’t want to hurt the poor baby donkey. Now that I know how tough she really is, I am somewhat more circumspect about working with her.

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I hear ya! Teaching them not to drag you off, even if it requires a chain, is less expensive than rotator cuff surgery. :slight_smile:

Sounds like you are doing fine and your extensive horse background will carry you through. Donkeys are just a little different but you already know that fact.

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Donkeys, like mules, are all so different in their reactions that it’s hard to generalize about them. Some donkeys lock up when they get upset while others are more likely to bolt. Donkeys don’t usually go far when they bolt, but some will. If I’ve been riding a donkey I’ll just ride him next to a cart a few times so he can get used to the sound and then I’ll hitch him up. I do tend to use a stronger bit on my donkeys and mules because they’re much less likely to rear (than a more sensitive horse), and I like to have enough bit to stop them if they feel the need to run off. But sensitivity varies too, and not all longears are physically insensitive (like mine have been).

OK, next question. Harness? Donkeys ain’t got no withers! :lol: And recommendations for a non-expensive cart? I have spent to the moon and back for the horses, but this is an experiment, as far as I am concerned. I’ve never owned anything but leather harness, but with my current feeling about using animal products, like leather, synthetic is sounding OK! I have a GREAT harness guy who can make it for me- anything special for an ass?

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The low withers don’t matter because the saddle is held in place by the breeching and/or crupper. Horse harnesses don’t generally fit donkeys very well because donks are so long in the barrel and short in the hind end and shoulders, so if you can’t find a used donkey harness some modifications may have to be made. Most low budget operations go with something like an Easy Entry or Meadowbrook style cart simply because there are a lot of used ones around.

Thanks!

Be sure the harness saddle has a tree in it to keep shaft weight off the donkey spine. Spine is not made to bear weight, it hurts.

When I had miniature horses that I drove I had leather harnesses and wooden carts. Lovely but a little extra work. This time with the donkey it was all about fun so I went with a synthetic harness and metal cart. Easy and looks nice!

This is the harness I have for my donkey. https://www.ivccarriage.com/collections/ivc-synthetic-harness/products/enhanced-synthetic-harness If your guy can make you a harness it won’t be any different than a horse or pony’s other than the size based off the donkey’s measurements. Ditto Goodhors advice and the harness saddle having a tree in it, that is a must. Make sure the leather is wide and/or padded in the key areas otherwise the narrow pieces will pinch.

The first metal cart I bought came from an Amish company in Ohio. It was sturdy and well made. The Amish actually use those things and make good, affordable stuff. I upgraded to a nicer metal cart a couple years that I use for shows and DT/CDE. etc. I’ve just bought a wicker cart to use for Carriage Driving shows and that should arrive after the first of the year. :slight_smile: