How Old is Too Old to Buy?

[hunter51]

Horse shopping is no fun, despite what everyone has told me! :no: I’m on a 15k budget and am having trouble finding horses I even want to look at! Mostly, I’m finding either greenies or older schoolmasters that suit my needs (hunters/eq 2’6" – 3’) – not too much in between, at least in Zone 2. I simply don’t have the time, experience, or guts for a greenie.

Not looking to resell down the line – I would keep the horse for pleasure. I should also mention that I’m at an odd time in my life to be buying a horse but I’d really like to own - I’m getting married soon and am looking to show for another 4ish years before settling down and having kids. So with that being said… what is the oldest age you’d buy if you were in my shoes?

[soloudinhere]

Well, I think you might be one of those people who needs to shop a little “outside the box.”

For example, some of my best horses have been western rejects. They may be “green” in the sense that they are not clocking around the 3’ every weekend - but they’re not “green” in the sense that they’re usually very, very broke, just not competitive in the respective division they’re supposedly aimed for. My AA hunter was a failed western pleasure horse (too much “go” but a lovely flat kneed mover and a very athletic jumper - appendix QH) and my current dressage horse was a failed ranch horse (too much attitude to check fences for 8 hours a day). They’re out there if you know what you’re looking for and have a trainer who is open to the unconventional. These horses can usually be picked up pretty cheaply because they’re not successful at whatever they’re doing.

This may also get you an age that is right for you - my AA hunter was 7 when I bought him, and my current horse was 6.

My first horse was 12 when I got her and she, last I checked, was still clocking around the 2’6" hunters when she was 18. She’s since been retired, but you could easily get 4 years out of an older horse, especially if you’re willing to invest in massage/chiro/joint injections. This may be the best route if you want to go out and compete right this second. If you’re willing to give up a summer to give a little reeducation to a broke-but-failed horse from another discipline, you may be able to get something you could resell when family takes over.

[fordtraktor]

The age is probably irrelevant…up to late teens OK, the kicker will be whether my vet thinks it would hold up to four more years of hard use. Not too many of those in the 12-18 range. But you have to be careful and do a really good vetting no matter what age range you are looking at, even green, if you have one shot at keeping something going in the ring. I have four and sometimes kick around for something to ride. That’s called “horses.” My two youngsters are super sound, so they spend all their energy maiming themselves in very inventive pasture accidents.

[findeight]

Agree with the above. Nothing wrong with looking at early teenagers, like 12-13ish depending on your financial ability to keep it sound and comfortable. You might need to forego 3’ regularly after about 15 when insurance gets problematic since it does not cover common treatments for aging joints that can run your upkeep costs up 1-2k a year, or more if hou want to keep jumping.

You do say you know for sure you can keep it for the remainder of its life if retirement becomes necessary so that releives some of the concern of buying an older horse. Most people find they really cannot do that due to changes in circumstances, illness, injury, death in the family, job loss etc. Many also find they cannot afford the regular meds and procedures to keep a senior horse active.

In your price range a younger horse a little off type or with unconventional for a show Hunter background would be the best choice- Something 10 or under already well broke eith a goid sttitude and basics.

[roamingnome]

What kind of schedule are you looking at? 3’ at the A/AA shows, for 26 weeks+/year(Florida?), or more local/state assoc shows with a few A shows here and there?–This matters as a horse in it’s teens will most likely hold up better/longer with the second schedule.

Are you doing 2’6 or 3’? IMO there is a big difference in the amount of wear in those 6". Also, are you doing 2’6 wanting a horse who can move you up to 3’ (aka one with the scope to save you at 3’) or one who is moving down from the 3’ who can show you the ropes of the 2’6/2’9?

You say you’re happy to keep the horse as a pleasure horse, does that mean you’re ready/willing to fund his retirement? (It’s ok if you’re not, you just need to be honest with yourself about that) If not, maybe lease something?
Also, I know a number of friends who would’ve been happy to knock $5-10k off the price if someone had said to them “I want to compete for X years, and then will retire Pookie as I plan on starting a family/going to college/moving up etc”

How open to maintenance are you? And how much maintenance?

I’ve lived and competed in Zone 1, 2 and 4. I now live and have very lightly competed in Zone 7. If you’re able to travel, I think you’re most likely get more bang for your buck outside of zone 1/2. (Maybe 3, def 5/7)

I also second the western rejects- I’ve sat on a number of “unsuitable” western horses, who were easier on the flat than my jumper who competed to PSG dressage. They are a dream to ride, and if you can find one who wants to go ‘fast’ (aka not crawling) and can jump, you’re in for a treat!

[hunter51]

I’m looking more towards the second schedule. A local show per month with some bigger shows mixed in.

I am looking to compete in the 2’6" for a while but would like to move up to 3’ eventually. This horse would show me the ropes of 2’6" to 2’9" and maybe help me move up to 3’ when/if I’m ready.

I am willing and ready to fund this horse’s retirement when I’m ready to start a family

I am also open to maintenance; I assume any older horse I get will need some type of maintenance which I am fine with as long as its not excessive.

The reason I’m unsure of the Western rejects… my current horse is a “Western reject” QH. He has taught me all he has been able to (from learning to trot to 2’3" - I will treasure him forever) but he has a lot of trouble getting down the lines and just isn’t quite athletic enough for the 2’6" which is why I’m ISO a new horse. That’s not to say I couldn’t find something more suitable that was also a western reject but I am hesitant to purchase something without proven experience in the hunters.

[Justice]

I would get an older horse. I spent years and tons of $$$ riding babies when I was your age. I wish that I had owned a schoolmaster. My two best horses are in their late teens. As long as you have a good vet check and are prepared to do some maintenance, I would not let age be a factor. Horse show experience is a huge deal. You just have to find the right horse. There are 20 year old horses in better shape than 8 year olds.

[hunter51]

My theory is that buying a horse is a crapshoot regardless of age. Would I be facing more of a chance of issues with an older horse? Yes, but with a good vet check and willingness for maintenance, I’m thinking an older horse may suit my needs/budget best. I think a lot of it also depends on how well taken care of the horse was in its life/how hard it has worked. There are just so many factors, so I am interested in seeing everyone’s opinion on here.

[findeight]

Well, if you want to show once a month plus schooling and lessons planning a move up then staying at 3’? Most of them wont handle that kind of schedule past mid teens, some not much past early teens.

If you are going to need to learn the 3’ on them, thats alot of jumps that will need to be 3’ so you can master the increased step and more open stride compared to 2’6". It’s quite a bit of pounding showing plus teaching you at home for a mid teen horse.

I learned on and showed mid teen horses and had to watch how much we asked for and carefully plan shows and lessons to avoid pushing too hard. Often meant skipping shows and restricting the number of lessons depending on hiw much they were taking out of the horse and how long it took them to recover- they tire more easily and dont bounce back so quick as a youngster, particularly traveling to away shows.

Its cool if you are prepared for that and have the money for continued support. Just that many find they really were not prepared and cannot afford to continue the maintenance so we get quite a few threads begging for how to rehome a 16-18 year old retiree or light ride only horse with recurring maintenance costs. True that can happen at any age but the probability increases with age- thats why insurance underwriters decrease or eliminate coverage- statistics say its more probable then not past about age 16.

BTW, I bought around 8-10 years, long over baby boogers and Green blunders. Oldest I leased was 24 but had been semi retired for almost 8 years before I leased him and he could not do anything over 2’6" on a regular basus… took him a week to get over 4 o/f and a hack when we did the 3’ divisions. Another leased horse was 16 stepping down from 3’6" and cost more in maintenance as a 2’6" move up go 3’ horse then the not that cheap lease fee. Irs a bit more commitment then many think.

[roamingnome]

@findeight;8091057

You do say you know for sure you can keep it for the remainder of its life if retirement becomes necessary so that releives some of the concern of buying an older horse. Most people find they really cannot do that due to changes in circumstances, illness, injury, death in the family, job loss etc. Many also find they cannot afford the regular meds and procedures to keep a senior horse active.

This ^^^

I had to put showing/training/riding (other than trail rides) on hold for over a year when my horse somewhat unexpectedly (he was older, but 100% with maintenance) had to be retired one day. I had thought about very lightly what it would cost to keep him when he did retire, but I was off by about $400/month, because what I thought he would need in retirement and what he actually needs are two different things- and not things I could have planned for.

I actually pay $100 more than I pay for board just for his maintenance/front shoes/insurance/injections (if you break it down to cost/month)- meaning I’m essentially paying board for 2 horses, plus an extra $100/month just for him. When he was competing, I was paying less than I am now.

I made the decision to put off getting a new horse for so long, to be sure my emergency fund for Retiree was able to cover the new, higher amount per month, for 6 months. I know I won’t be able to show my new horse for at least 18 months, maybe 2 years. This of course may change, depending on the needs of Retiree. I may even need to sell my new horse if it came to a point where Retiree’s costs grew to equal/exceed new horse’s monthly budget.
Not everyone can/wants do this, but I’ve made some ‘severe’ adjustments to my life/lifestyle to accommodate Retiree (who, for clarity, I bought when he was 8, not in the age range OP is considering)

[I wrote more than I intended. This isn’t 100% for the OP, but for anyone else who may be reading this thread now/in the future, who may be considering purchasing an older horse with the thought to retire in the future.]

[hunter51]

All good points, Findeight, I appreciate it.

[Hunter_Mom]

I’ve seen broken down horses that were 7 and 20 year olds eating up a ring. I sold my jumper at age 19 - he’s still kicking bu** in the 3’ jumper ring four years later. DD"s mare just moved to a smaller kid - she did fine at 2’6" at age 19. We have several in our barn who are hovering around the 2-decade mark and doing fine. It so depends on the individual.

It sounds like you want something that you can go out and show on next weekend. That is NOT an average green horse. Find a teenager who can teach you how to move up. It may take a little more maintenance but they’re so worth it!

[GotSpots]

So I’d disagree with some of the posts here about the teenagers - I’ve known a number of horses who are still very very respectably competing well into their upper teens. It all depends on what they are doing and how they are maintained, but I think that a 12-13year old with a decent vet check is going to be more than able to do what you want it to do. If I were you, I’d probably not look much past a current 14-15 year old unless it was really pretty exceptional, but I’d not blink at all at something below that.

Just as an example, I bought my upper level horse at 13 with hard mileage on him beforehand; he was still jumping comfortably around 3’6" events at 18, and very comfortable at 3’3" at 20. He’s done some hunter derbies at that height as well. There’s a number of former event horses who do really well crossing over into hunters, often because they can totally take a joke, have been there/seen that, and don’t get upset about an amateur ride. Some of them won’t win on the A circuit, but there’s always more than a few who are fancy and steady enough, particularly for the local circuit.

[roamingnome]

Again, what Findeight said is spot on.

A horse doing the 3’ as a 12-14yo, then moving down to 2’6 for a few years is going to have trouble (typically) to move back up to the 3’, especially with all of the jumps he’s going to have to jump at home, teaching you to jump 3’.

You also should read, and re-read my last post. If you’re planning on retiring this horse when you start a family, please bear in mind your monthly costs are going to skyrocket. I don’t have kids, but I know they’re crazy expensive, and that on top of that, you may have increased horse costs. There are plenty of horses who can still clock around at 19/20- but there are many more who can not.

If you are for sure that you will want to walk away in 4 years, you may be better off leasing something.

[Lord_Helpus]

One thing I think you should keep in mind when considering your over all plan:

A mare with a good pedigree (and one whihc is already approved by one of the registries) can have a second career as a broodmare. I am 100% against breeding anything with ovaries, but if you get a mare with quality genes, you might be able to sell her as a broodmare or even free lease her during her (and your) child bearing years.

If you buy a gelding and he gets old and creaky or lame, then all you have is a lawn ornament for 10 years or more.

[inca]

I am the owner of a non-jumping horse who is still competing and doing well at 4th level dressage at age 21. But, I also have pasture ornament horses aged 15 and 20. So I agree with posters that say it is possible for horses to still be showing 3’ in their late teens. But, I certainly would COUNT on that being the case. Horses usually need to start stepping down at some point.

I would not hesitate to buy a 13 year old but would certainly think long and hard about buying anything over the age of 15.

And I think leasing is a GREAT option, if you can find something that doesn’t break the bank.

[fourfillies]

The last 2 I bought would suit your situation. Both were 12 with plenty of miles but never “big division horses”. One is a DWB and the other a “sport bred” TB. I’m in Zone 2 and found one in GA and one in southern VA, both were known to me through mutual contacts and had “livable” markers of their age and wisdom. One is 20 and stepped down from the 3’ to the 2’6 in the last year and the other is 17 and cruising around the 3’. If you can trust the seller as honest about the horses needs/limitations (I know a HUGE if) you can get a nice horse for your needs in your price range understanding they will in all likelihood not “'pass” the vet. And, to stay under 25K I suspect you’ll have to leave Zone 2 where a 15yo 3 legged giraffe that hasn’t been to a horse show in the last 5 years is marketed as $15K/year lease or could be your pleasure to own for $25K. Especially if you aren’t shopping with a reasonably BNT.

[KateKat]

I also am not sure if I would buy in your shoes. You don’t have a huge budget for what you’re looking for, and are planning to start a family in a few years. Leasing may be the better option, unless there is some real pressing reason why you want to own right now.

[CHT]

I am a bit surprised at what is considered old in these posts. may be different up here, where (most of us) have a shorter show season so horses get a bit of a break over the winter. Maybe you should come shop in Canada…

Based on that, I would think you should consider a horse that IS older. If so many are gun shy by age, you should be able to get a heck of a deal on a mid teen horse…particularly if you are ok just doing 3’0 at the smaller shows, and only looking to be competitive at 2’6" at the bigger shows. And if they vet ok at 15-16, then I think they are more likely to last into old age! I think older than 14 is where the price seems to drop anyway.

(I have a couple oldsters here, that with good turn out, feed, and being kept fit, look half their age again!)

[Small_Change]

For what it’s worth, if you can find an older one that is currently keeping up with the level of work you expect (as opposed to one that is already semi-retired or “used to do” what you’d like in a horse), I think you might just have a real gem.

A year and a half ago, I purchased a truly lovely ISH in his late teens - I was not looking for a horse, but met him and couldn’t pass up the chance to bring him home. This horse is a former upper level eventer, was sound doing more work than we expect of him here, and is just lovely in every sense of the word. I spent a fraction of your budget on him as well, since his owner was delighted at the type of home he was going to, and that I could assure her beyond a shadow of a doubt that he will live out his days here.

Evaluate each horse on their own merit - we’ve got horses ten years younger than this guy in the barn that are very much “older” in a physical sense. Don’t be afraid to look in unusual spots, and to put your feelers out there with good people. I found this guy essentially by word of mouth. Best of luck!