How to build/maintain a grass arena

[thatwilldopig]

I have a relatively flat spot in my pasture that I am thinking about fencing off and turning into an arena. I rent, but my landlord will allow me to fence the area off and keep it grass as long as we don’t destroy it. We live in central Ky, and our ground gets hard and is mostly clay, so when the ground gets very dry, it can be lumpy and hard to work on.

My question is, would routine sprinkler systems during dry spells, laying down quality grass seed, routine mowing, and only riding when the conditions are right, could I make this work? I don’t have access to a drag and can’t add anything much to the field to help, so I’m trying to find relatively cheaper options to give me a decent riding area. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

Ideally you build a base, crown it, install drains an do all the subbase arena work you would do for sand. Like they build a football field. A fair amount of sand in the topsoil is good (think polo field or golf course). I realize that probably isn’t feasible.

First, do you need to seed? You might want to get a cheap soil sample done before spending the money on seed to figure out why it isn’t lush already.

Second, if it is like mine, you may want to rent a plug-aerator before seeding and fertilizing this spring. I could also stand to roll some areas.

I can’t imagine watering my arena, but it’s not a bad idea. Mine is about 95 x 150. It does get too hard to ride in late summer. But the amount of water to soften soil in high heat would be staggering I fear.

It’s not ideal. I feel like it is slippery when wet (har har) and also slippery when dry.

[ElementFarm]

If you’re renting, I’m assuming you’re not going to want to invest the $$$ required to do it ‘right’ like TTPumpkn describes.

For a DIY grass ring on a budget: I think using a roller of some sort to level any lumps, fencing it off, so horses can’t wander in and paw, roll, or otherwise mess up surface. I would overseed with something that thrives locally, grows fast, and has strong root structure. (your local extension office should be able to recommend something) When riding in a grass arena, you’ll want to avoid riding in the same tracks (e.g. along the rail) constantly or you’ll wear a path of no grass. Similarly, avoid riding in it when it’s wet, as you’ll at best, leave hoof divots, worse, slip/slide and tear up swathes of grass, as well as risking horse soundness.

As for watering it… I can see using a sprinkler to keep ground slightly damp and encourage grass to grow (will also need regular mowing), but too much will limit your riding (see above). It also would be expensive to do daily unless you’re on a well or cistern system.

[thatwilldopig]

Thank you guys!

I’m not trying to spend an arm and a leg, but I also don’t have the ability to haul to an indoor or outdoor enough to get my guy back in shape so I’m trying to do what I can.

The reason the field isn’t really lush is that it’s only year 2 of establishing it from a previous corn field. Some spots are starting to come in great, while others, like where it’d be ideal to put the arena, are not. I’ve ridden in grass a lot before, and my guy seems to do alright. He’s also barefoot so that tends to help him a little bit more, when he was shod he slipped more often.

Would adding a decent amount of topsoil to it and then overseeding the area help with establishing a better base for riding? I’m in no rush to get it up and going, but of course I’d love to get my guy going before the end of summer. Again, thank you for the info so far!!

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

Fence it off first.

For the bare areas, I would use a metal garden rake (the heavy duty one, not the flimsy one for leaves) or some other implement to loosen soil. Put down your grass seed. Then lightly cover with a mix of topsoil and peat moss mix. I like this, because you can easily see when it is getting dry. You will want to roll the area or ensure that the seed is touching the soil so you get germination. Plan to water a lot if nature doesn’t do it for you.

Now if it is a low area or something, you will need to add some soil first–I’m just talking about flat, bare spots above.

You can just throw seed and hope for the best, but without prep only a small fraction will germinate.

I still think a $15 soil sample of the area is money well spent.

Don’t try to do this in the heat of summer. Spring or fall are best. Make sure you mow the new growth a few times before you even think about riding on it. It will be very fragile initially.

[ElementFarm]

Honestly, if you’re going to add material, I would think you’d be better off adding sand, and going for an all-weather solution. It won’t be perfect, since it would be sitting on a grass, not a prepared base.

But I think if you add topsoil and seed, it’ll be muddy and the grass will be too fragile to ride on for a year or two… That’s just my opinion…

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

Agree with ElementFarm if they will let you do that. Although it will be a few thousand for sand likely (depends how large of an area).

[goodhors]

If you want good grass, you have to ‘feed’ the soil with organic ammendments to get fiber, particles, down into the soil. You can use you stall bedding material of sawdust, shredded leaves, floor sweeping from hay or straw storage. Any local farmers cleaning winter bedding from cow barns or shed that would spread it on your arena space? Then get the aerator to punch holes opening dirt to the organic material. I really would not add sand. It doesn’t loosen hard dirt without machinery to work the hard soil. Microbial animal life will help break down the organic material, pull it down into the soil which spreads dirt particle for better water absorbtion, building actual soil footing over time.

Items you spread need to be natural products mentioned, that break down in weather, not specifically labeled organic or certified organic, like yard mulch, wood chips, used stall bedding. Canadians use chips, shredded wood for footing in winter, wet locations, usually called ‘hog fuel’. It breaks down over time, may get muddy up there with so much water. Probably not be muddy in your drier location. Still helpful with other amendments in a thin covering layer as arena footing, aid grass growth as the season progresses. Grass roots need protection from hot sun, drying wind, horse hooves, which the continual addition of the amendments will provide. Regular mowing will help prevent seed set, which causes grass to go dormant, not grow again until fall. Mow high, at least 4 inches, 5 inches is better, to protect the roots, feed the plants.

I have greatly improved our pasture grasses using this method, along with getting the fertilizer recommended by soil testing put on yearly.

One other thing helps. Stand by the new arena area and tell some friends this will be your new DIRT arena! I swear the land hears you, so every green thing takes root in that area, producing a plant cover on the dirt. May not all be grass, but it sure tries to prevent any exposed dirt! Ha ha Our large sand arena now is covered with volunteer grasses, some weeds and laughs at damage from shod hooves. Everything growing is a very tough plant, stays green all season without watering or fertilizer. We do mow it as needed to stay about 5 inches, graze horses on it now.

Good luck with your project.

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

Just to clarify, my comment to add sand was instead of grass–not to improve the grass. Like till it up or remove topsoil and go sand without a perfect base. It is what makes up 80% of the DIY rings around me.

[HorseBizGirl]

There are different types of grass seed. Some are meant for pasture and some are meant for heavy use, like soccer fields. Use the type that will stand up to repeated use.

However, you are facing a losing battle to keep the ground smooth and level. Every time it rains and the ground gets ghe least bit soft, your horse’s hoofs, especially if he has shoes, but even if he doesn’t, is going to tear up the ground. And it will soon become lumpy and bumpy. Dragging won’t help. Harrowing will just tear up what good stuff you have left.

Read any pasture management article and it will say the same thing - keep your horse OFF the grass during wet weather as hoofs will tear it up.

I agree a better option is to either ride on dirt or sand and keep rototilling/dragging to keep level.

For more info on safe footing, read our Classic Equine Equipment blog - https://classicequineblog.wordpress.com/2018/05/08/5-things-to-know-about-arena-footing/

[Brigitte]

It can work, it sounds like you will be doing everything within your power to make it the best you can. If you could water without breaking the bank it would keep the ground softer.

Aerating before the ground gets baked hard this year might help and would not cost too much. You can rent various aerators. As others have said, adding any kind of organic matter should help. You just might not see the benefit right away.

You might have to adjust your work when the ground gets hard, but at least you could get on and do something.

Many years ago a local event had a grass dressage ring that was amazing to ride on. They didn’t have the funds to do anything fancy, but watering kept the grass thick and the footing a little cushiony.