I have no idea how to price my saddle that I want to sell.
Any advice ?
It is a high end saddle bought in november 2010.
Thanks
I would look up other used saddles similar to the one you are trying to sell and start from there.
Look on Ebay to see what similar saddles sold for. Be sure to view the “completed listings” - ones highlighted in green sold, those highlighted in red did not sell. This will give you a better picture of what they are actually trading for.
Minimum 20% off retail and probably closer to 30% to start. Deduct from there for anything unusual in terms of popularity (color, trim etc.) configuration (flap shape, size length, tree size that isn’t M or MW) or wear/damage.
Depends on all aspects of the saddle. The size of the tree, flaps, style, etc
If I can tag onto this a bit–how much would repair work change your pricing of the saddle? I’ve got one I’ve needed to sell for a year, and just haven’t, because I wasn’t sure how to price it.
It’s an upper-mid-range type saddle with good brand recognition, that goes for $800-1000 used and in good condition, in a popular tree and seat size. It’s in good shape and I’ve had no trouble with it, other than ugly repairs to the seat, where a previous owner had ridden in jeans, and worn through the seams; it was stitched back together rather unattractively, but it doesn’t show when you’re riding in it, and the repair has been stable for the ~4 years I’ve had it and been riding in it. I was thinking of pricing it around $450-500, because it’s certainly useable and would be a good saddle for someone riding a variety of horses in lessons, or something along those lines, and I’ve shown locally in it with no issues. Does that sound reasonable to COTHers?
Damage to the seat= expensive to fix and ugly repair=not good for value. I’d say about $400-450 LESS than that same saddle would be without the damage, and maybe less than that.
As to pricing saddles, the usual method is to divide the current retail price in half, and then adjust up or down, depending on condition. It would be helpful to know the make, model, seat size and tree width; some saddles are tougher sells than others - esp. really large or small seats, or extremes in tree width.
Re-seats usually run in the $500-$700 range (the saddle needs to be stripped to the bare tree, a new seat cut and stretched, and then everything put back together), so if the saddle sells used in good condition for $800-$1K, your asking price may be a bit high.
While we sometimes halve the price and adjust according to condition, more often we look to see what like saddles are going for on the Internet and adjust according to condition. It’s basically what the market will bear. Most aren’t willing to pay close to a new price as then they are more likely to go with new.
how does age affect a saddles price? if its in good shape but its 10 years old?
Speaking as someone who is looking, 10 years old is definitely going to knock down what I’m willing to pay. I would say about 50% of the original price is if it truly in immaculate condition; anything less than immaculate and it goes down accordingly.
Also, brief rant: please be accurate when listing a used saddle! Don’t say it is a medium when I can see it is stamped as an extra narrow. Don’t mention there are cat claw marks on the right side and not show the right side. Don’t list an incredibly beat up decade old saddle at over 60% of the original cost.
Speaking of seam tears due to idiots riding in jeans (hey, all my saddles were REALLY hard leather up until then apparently…)
IS there anyway to repair a small seam seperation due to a rub on the seat seam from jeans without doing full seat replacement that isn’t ugly?
Has anyone had experience on whether damage will spread if said idiot stopped riding in jeans after realizing what caused the damage? Or does it (on an otherwise healthy well made saddle) just stay in status quo if you ride in soft breeches thereafter?
Edit: Sorry to highjack!
I have stopped small tears from getting bigger with crazy glue. Bevals doesn’t like this when I did this. I had to have the stitching repaired because it was coming apart and they kept saying why did you do that? But it works! I was going to have a seat replaced by someone and they told me they had a waiting list and if I wanted a quick fix I could use crazy glue. It really works. I had a hole develop in my knee pads from the rain one day. I just glued it back together. It has lasted. I had to reglue about a year later.
[QUOTE=BostonHJ;7358433]
Speaking as someone who is looking, 10 years old is definitely going to knock down what I’m willing to pay. [/QUOTE]
just wondering why? i am thinking about purchasing a 10yo saddle but i am a little bit nervous i am making the wrong choice and should just spend more for something newer.
[QUOTE=TSWJB;7358862]
just wondering why? i am thinking about purchasing a 10yo saddle but i am a little bit nervous i am making the wrong choice and should just spend more for something newer.[/QUOTE]
I have two saddles that are well over 10 years old! One may be pushing 30 but it was a custom saddle from Austria and I don’t know how long ago it was new. I had a Spirig saddle that was 40 years old and going strong.
As with most things, the answer is, it depends.
A well made saddle that has been well cared for should last a very long time. There may be some light wear or loose stitching but those aren’t a big deal. Replacing billet straps also isn’t a deal breaker.
You should, if possible, confirm that the tree is intact. And if there is significant wear on the seat or the flaps (or a hole) those are expensive repairs to be done correctly. I will not buy a saddle that needs to be re-seated and will not buy one with damage to the seams.
Much of the time, an older saddle may just be out of fashion, but if it fits your horse, you like it, you don’t care about trends and it’s structurally sound there is no reason to spend more just to get something newer. Many of the better brand older saddles are (IMO) made better than the ones you find today.
You can email Rachel Schaeffer from www.ISellTack.com, I’m sure she would help you as she knows the market value for high end saddles well.
For the person who asked about age on a high end saddle, I just sold a saddle that was originally purchased for $5k in 2001 for $1500. It took a few months to get a deal done as well. It was a pretty standard size Delgrange, if that helps you at all.
Thanks! That is usefull information.
[edit]
[QUOTE=Bogie;7358938]
I And if there is significant wear on the seat or the flaps (or a hole) those are expensive repairs to be done correctly. I will not buy a saddle that needs to be re-seated and will not buy one with damage to the seams.[/QUOTE]
This is a large part of the reason - it seems like most (not all) 10+ year old saddles either have a lot of wear or they have been neglected for a long time and the leather isn’t in the best condition. Another part of why I wouldn’t pay as much for an older saddle is I tend to keep my tack forever/until it dies. I have a 17 year old saddle that I could probably get another year or two out of before there is a hole in the flap. My Hadfields bridle that is the same age is in excellent shape, but it was used significantly less, always hung properly, climate controlled and tended to several times a year. If I get a saddle that already has a decade under it’s belt, I feel like the amount of functional years I get out of it are likely to be less.
Also, if I decide after a few years that the saddle won’t work for me, I’ll have a much easier time selling it as a 7 year old saddle than a 13 year old saddle.
[QUOTE=MCarverS;7358949]
You can email Rachel Schaeffer from www.ISellTack.com, I’m sure she would help you as she knows the market value for high end saddles well.[/QUOTE]
from the people who are selling privately, if they are not getting it done, they say that they will send the saddle to people like this that sell saddles and mark them up so they get the price they want. i have tried to negotiate with them and they say oh well i will sell for 400 more dollars to pay for the commission. i am looking for a good deal, not the easiest way to find a saddle quick and pay top dollar.
