How to recondition a tack lot

[SonnysMom]

I am cleaning a lot of tack that was in a loft storage locker. It is mid-grade to higher grade leather. One Walsh halter, a Beval girth, a few triple stitched trophy halters, martingales, pair of child half chaps. They were dirty and a bit moldy. I have cleaned them and had some vinegar in the water to hopefully inhibit the mold.

Now I want to condition them as most of them are stiff and need a good drink. I am not really seeing much that is dry enough to crack. What is the best way to condition this stuff and not break the bank? I would prefer to avoid REALLY expensive conditioners as I will need a lot. This group is just the first of a few groups of tack that need some TLC. Any suggestions?

[Blueeyedroan]

I use the Passier Ledersbalsam. It isn’t a product to be used too often but it does a good job putting life back into neglected leather.

[Jo]

I’m sure I will be shunned for posting this but I’d slap those babies into a zip lock baggie filled of olive oil. Flip 'em around a number of times over a day or two. I just revived two bridles this way.

[LawsofMurph]

@Jo

I’m sure I will be shunned for posting this but I’d slap those babies into a zip lock baggie filled of olive oil. Flip 'em around a number of times over a day or two. I just revived two bridles this way.

As long as you use a “real” leather conditioner at the end, this works really well to get the sad leather into workable condition!

[beowulf]

For quality leather in need of resuscitation, I use Effax Balsam. Wipe it down, put it in a ziploc baggie. Don’t skip the ziploc - this will help the conditioner penetrate the deeper fibers, versus letting that valuable moisture get lost via air evaporation. If the items are too big, put in a plastic grocery bag and lightly tie the handles shut. Pull it every other day and wipe with a new layer of balsam until you no longer pull a “dry” piece of tack out of the bag the day after.

I am not above giving it the old olive or cooking oil treatment either, but I think pound for pound this method is actually more expensive in the long run. If you go this route resist the temptation to just pour glugs of oil in there - while your leather will drink it up, it will also bleed profusely once you put it to work, leaving oil marks on your horse and holding onto any dirt/dust that comes into contact with it.

[2DogsFarm]

I brought some very dry leather chaps - stiff as cardboard & dry as dust from sitting in a trunk in my basement for years - back to life with Stubben Hamanol.
Hate the smell, but a very small amount did wonders.

I have a 250g tube gifted to me when I got my semi-custom Stubben in 2010.
I’ve used it on paddock boots, saddle, bridles, dress boots, harness - not often, but still about 1/4 of the tube left.

[Paisley_Pony]

My two favorites are Passier lederbalsam and Kocholine by Carr, Day and Martin. With both of them, a little goes a long way. The Kocholine is honestly the best of the two, IME, but you have to clean it off well afterwards because it has a pink tint. It doesn’t turn the leather pink, but it can stain fabrics. (I’ve only used it on dark leather and don’t know what it would do to a London Tan shade.)

[PNWSunnyDay]

@2DogsFarm

back to life with Stubben Hamanol.

We call that stuff, “The Meat Sweats.” Even went so far as to write it with fancy script on the tube.

[red_mares]

I prefer to do the leather conditioner first and then the olive oil. I think the leather gets too soft if the oil is used first.

I like a couple days/coat of Passier Lederbalsam then hot olive oil with a paint brush.

[SonnysMom]

Thank you everyone