How to use wooden siding on a pipe framed shelter & what type to use?

[Hermein]

I’m putting up six shelters/stand alone stalls.

I want wood siding as opposed to metal. I could use tongue and groove, 2" x various lengths, regular house-type siding or plywood (probably not because of esthetics).

I’m pretty sure that the 2" x would survive a direct kick. Not sure about the tongue and groove because what’s available is only 1 (nominal) inch thick. Think I’d have to put another layer of material with house siding, and plywood comes in various thicknesses.

Anyone have experience with different types of siding and its attachment to metal pipes that they would share?

Thanks.

BTW–I had mistakenly put this post in Horse Care–asleep at the reins I guess.

[Jim_R]

2" tongue and groove is not available where you are at?

[Jim_in_PA]

You should be able to source 2" T&G…it just might not be "on the shelf.

Fastening to the metal poles is going to present a conundrum. Ideally, you want the material on the inside of the poles for your “stall” situation because that provides the maximum support when the animals lean or kick. But that’s not very pretty on the outside… I’m just guessing on the actual attachment, but aside from drilling the poles (which likely isn’t a great idea because of the number of holes necessary) you may need to use pipe straps or “U” connectors. Not sure on that. If you did your “siding” vertical, you could install 2x horizontal strapping like is done with normal pole barns to support traditional metal siding panels.

[Texarkana]

T1-11? I’d think it would be easy to attach to a metal frame, but could be wrong.

[gumtree]

Working off little information. A picture of the frame of these “shelters” would go a long way.

The usual way to go about it is to attach 2X4 nailers to the frame using self tapping metal screws. Then nail the siding to these.

They type of siding I suppose would depend on the look you want to have and available materials.

Around here I have lots of different choices. 16’ 1x12 T&G can be had for around $15 a board. This is a full 1 inch thick board. Or 1X12 boards for less and use battens. But using battens depends on how this would be “framed” with the nailer boards.

I can also get 1X8 bead board T&G for very reasonable prices.

T-111 works but is very easy to kick through. If so the whole sheet has to be replaced. Verses just replacing 1 board.

You want to “wrap” the bottom with a pressure treated “splash board” then run/attach the siding board above this. Otherwise the bottom of the siding will rot out pretty quickly.

It would be a good idea to put up kick boards on the inside 3-4’ high. I use oak fence boards, they are pretty strong and can be had for around $7-8 per 16’ board.

Or just use 2X8 or bigger framing lumber.

[Hermein]

Thank you for the advice! Here (I hope) is a photo of the frame work of one of the shelters the company makes–not like mine. http://billetbarns.com/images/Additions/adn11.jpg

RE: availability of 2" thick t&g. I’ve only shopped at Lowe’s and HD so far. Real lumber yards are scarce in my area, but I can probably find one.

There’s a type of hardware that is used for board fences that allows the boards to be slid into a groove. This company calls it a “stall groove” http://www.eq-winecovers.com/id6.html.

Lowe’s sells these things for fencing projects, but I don’t know what they’re called.

The siding will go outside the frame, and I could run it vertically or horizontally.
I’m excited to start this project, but at the same time I know I will suffer from DIY fatigue.

Thanks.

[TheJenners]

Following. I’m still in the “pricing out” stage of things so just gathering info off others’ projects

[clanter]

[QUOTE=Hermein;8757415]

There’s a type of hardware that is used for board fences that allows the boards to be slid into a groove. This company calls it a “stall groove” http://www.eq-winecovers.com/id6.html. [/QUOTE]

we had a metal shop (the one we used primarily made duct work for heating and AC companies ) fabricate our “stall groove” u-channels … ten foot sections of 9 ga steel were $5.00

[Jim_in_PA]

@Hermein;8757415

RE: availability of 2" thick t&g. I’ve only shopped at Lowe’s and HD so far. Real lumber yards are scarce in my area, but I can probably find one.

Home centers are not really the best place to shop for this kind of thing…if they have anything, it will be both over priced and likely of poorer quality.

[netg]

[QUOTE=Hermein;8757415]
Thank you for the advice! Here (I hope) is a photo of the frame work of one of the shelters the company makes–not like mine. http://billetbarns.com/images/Additions/adn11.jpg

RE: availability of 2" thick t&g. I’ve only shopped at Lowe’s and HD so far. Real lumber yards are scarce in my area, but I can probably find one.

There’s a type of hardware that is used for board fences that allows the boards to be slid into a groove. This company calls it a “stall groove” http://www.eq-winecovers.com/id6.html.

Lowe’s sells these things for fencing projects, but I don’t know what they’re called.

The siding will go outside the frame, and I could run it vertically or horizontally.
I’m excited to start this project, but at the same time I know I will suffer from DIY fatigue.

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

Their “stall groove” is a U channel that works nicely. My trainer used self-tapping screws into pipe to add channels to hold wood to create a birthing stall at his place where he has pipe corral.

[froglander]

Since I don’t really want the siding either inside or outside the metal legs of my (carport) shelter, I am planning to use angle iron attached to the legs and then attach the wood to that. Was not having any luck finding someone to make stall u-channel around here and this seemed the most straightforward option I could come up with.

[Hermein]

Froglander, could you use the stuff that makes corners for drywall? It may be too light weight for your project, but it does keep horses from chewing on any wood edges in your stall. It looks like this: l_ You could over lap the bottoms and come up with something like this: l_l Angle iron might be less trouble. :yes:

[clanter]

[QUOTE=froglander;8757693]
Was not having any luck finding someone to make stall u-channel around here and this seemed the most straightforward option I could come up with.[/QUOTE]

metal supermarket is a specialty metal company … about 75 locations around North America (five in the UK) … their specialty is short runs of odd items … they will also ship

Metal Supermarkets is the world’s largest small-quantity metal supplier with over 80 brick-and-mortar stores across the US, Canada, and United Kingdom

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/services/bending/

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/buy-online/

[Jim_in_PA]

[QUOTE=Hermein;8758584]
Froglander, could you use the stuff that makes corners for drywall? It may be too light weight for your project, but it does keep horses from chewing on any wood edges in your stall. It looks like this: l_ You could over lap the bottoms and come up with something like this: l_l Angle iron might be less trouble. :yes:[/QUOTE]

The potential issue with the metal corner bead for 'rocking is that it’s thin, perforated and has many potential sharp edges as a result. Some folks do use it in the barn, but I personally would be concerned with the potential for injury. I’d rather invest a little more in a metal capping product that’s thicker and designed for the purpose.

[ReSomething]

The Klene Pipe Wrangler model that we have has purpose welded tabs that you bolt your 2x material to, and then we used 3/4 ply for the insides and that cute pre painted siding, T-1 maybe? as the exterior of the fronts, and DH just framed in over the tops of the ground pipes, made a sandwich from floor to ceiling, to make a stall front that suited us, so our openings are in the middle as opposed to an end.
They come in 12’ modular units so you may keep an interior wall or leave it out, there is a pipe center for the wall and again it has ears or tabs welded on for bolting 2x material.
http://www.klenepipe.com/product-gallery/
Honestly, I bought the thing for speed of construction but it was not faster for DH, he wound up with a lot of things that didn’t fit to his satisfaction.
You could build the whole thing out of wood too, skip the pipe framework.

[froglander]

[QUOTE=Hermein;8758584]
Froglander, could you use the stuff that makes corners for drywall? It may be too light weight for your project, but it does keep horses from chewing on any wood edges in your stall. It looks like this: l_ You could over lap the bottoms and come up with something like this: l_l Angle iron might be less trouble. :yes:[/QUOTE]

I’ve got something like this, galvanized, in 5’ lengths that I was going to use (from nearish farm store)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-x-14-Gauge-x-72-in-Zinc-Plated-Slotted-Angle-800517/204225758