one stall is 12 x 12’5". Can I count on the mat to stay put and if not what are the options to solve this problem? Thank you. The barn build project
is one.problem.after.another. Count me lucky stars to have all of your help. You are all life savers!
Can you count on the mats to stay put if it’s free on that one edge? Absolutely not–it will 100% shift. You’ll also constantly curse that one edge, because it WILL catch your manure fork, and bedding will work it’s way underneath. You’ll also screw up your base there (if your stalls aren’t concrete.)
These are stall kits, so the outside edges are smooth, right? Pick up a regular mat and cut it to fill the gap 
Another option would be to pin down the loose edge with stall mat klips (as long as your base isn’t concrete)…but that doesn’t solve the hard edge issue at all.
are your walls between stalls able to be removed? where you dismantle and drop all wood boards back in? If so, I’d run those interlocking mats straight thru however many stalls you have, and replace your walls over them in same slots. this way, you will only pay for final stall in run additional couple of mats and only one cut to fit. But I don’t know your situation.
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OK - good to know it will shift. Yes, outside edges are smooth - it is a stall kit. Screenings is the base so no concrete. Would you buy a mat and cut or get stall mat kips? Thank you Simkie.
No - cannot move or remove walls.
I’d buy a regular mat and cut it to fill that gap–that would be faaaaar preferred over nailing down the loose edge with the klips.
When you cut, cut 1/4 - 1/2" longer than the space measures. You want that mat in there tightly. Pound in with a rubber mallet. I am assuming your mats butt into the solid walls of your stalls?
If you were really opposed to adding a piece of regular mat, the klips would help at least keep what you have secure, but they won’t address that hard edge constantly catching your fork or the beating your stall base will take over that uncovered section.
The klips are super handy for when you have mats in areas where they aren’t butted up against solid things, though. I use them to keep the mats just outside the front and back doors of the barn in place, and for some of the mats that are outside the dutch doors into the runs off the stalls. A good tool to know about! :yes:
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I have interlocking mats in my stalls and had to cut an odd length. I interlocked it to the mat next to it and cut the straight edge to fit tight to the wall.
yup. if you cannot remove your inner stall walls, then get another mat(s) and trim to fit.
I don’t think you will have a problem with interlocking mats being smaller than than 12x12. When I built my barn I told the builder that I wanted the inside of the stalls to be 12x12, not the outside walls. So he increased their size and my big stall is actually 12 x 25. I have one huge interlocking combined mat that is 11.5 x 24 or thereabouts. So smaller than the inside of the stall. It has not shifted in 18 years despite the occupant being able to canter in there.
I am assuming it is the inside of the stall that is 12x12.5 and not the mats. Usually the mats are smaller than 12x12 when they are assembled. If it is the reverse, well I don’t know.
there is not much chance of a horse getting within 5 inches of a wall… I would just grout the five inches with concrete floated to be level with the mat
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[QUOTE=Simkie;n10730974]
I’d buy a regular mat and cut it to fill that gap–that would be faaaaar preferred over nailing down the loose edge with the klips.
When you cut, cut 1/4 - 1/2" longer than the space measures. You want that mat in there tightly. Pound in with a rubber mallet. I am assuming your mats butt into the solid walls of your stalls?
OK good to know. I’ll buy a mat. Yes, they butt into the solid walls. I do need to cut my mat to fit around a Nelson waterers w the concrete culvert pipe in the ground. Any creative ideas how to do that draw and cut? I could post a picture if that is more helpful too.
Oh you make me laugh with the cantering. That is good to know it hasn’t moved. My to do list is long and trying to bring horses home by Oct 1. But maybe your mat hasn’t shifted because it’s SO big. I think I’ll buy a mat and cut a strip.
If ONLY you lived nearby. What you describe is over my head. Limestone is already in the stall - I don’t think the grout w concrete idea is doable for me.
thank you. That’s my plan.
Curved lines are a PITA. Couple ideas:
Attempt with a jigsaw. You may need someone to hold a hose over the cut? And have several blades, swap out as you destroy them? I’ve not cut mats with power tools, but for something like that, I’d really be tempted to experiment.
If that doesn’t work, you can square the cut. The little triangles that don’t fit snug to the culvert should be pretty small, and unlikely to cause problems.
My last choice would be making that curved cut with a knife by hand. That would just suck with a box cutter. Its really hard to apply the pressure you need along a curve consistently.
If you have more than a few long, straight cuts to get your mats in, this thing is a huge help:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-98-in-Cutting-Guide-E902/203175575
Good luck!
ok. not knowing how far from wall the ‘hole’ would need to be : my mat installer cut one straight line to my spigot upright pipe. From there? think door knob circular blade hole driller like on a power drill. Plop. done.
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I have probably a 2" gap between my mats and the stall front in one of my stalls, and my 6x4 mats haven’t shifted one bit, and they’re on smooth concrete. I also had to cut a hole around the drain in the wash stall, it was definitely a pain, but what worked best for me was to outline the circle with holes using a large drill bit and then use my box cutter to connect the dots and pop out the circle.
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My experience is with the lightweight interlocking mats. I originally purchased them to line my elderly horse’s stall at a temporary place, while we were purchasing our own property; he was stalled overnight every night on those mats. They didn’t quite fill the space but, as clanter mentioned, a horse can’t stand right next to the wall (legs are not on the corners of the horse, and the ribcage, chest, and rump overhang the legs). Mats never shifted in the approximately five months I used them in that stall.
After that, I’ve used them for 23 years as portable mats, for showing situations, camping, etc., as needed; they’re now usually employed in my washrack area. Never have they ever been tightly wall to wall in any stall (exposition centers, fairgrounds, show grounds) or pen (various horse camping accommodations). Never have they moved or slid around. If it were me, I don’t think I’d worry about the five inches, which could be split into 2.5 inches at opposite sides. 2.5 inches along the wall is not a likely place that a horse will be standing, IMO, or a spot I would expect to catch a fork while poop picking.
Now, at our own property, we had stall mats cut to fit tightly inside the concrete perimeter beams of our barn. Our stalls are also 12 ft x 12 ft inside dimensions – it was one of the selling points of the barn.
UPDATE and to help future mat cutters…what I’ve found to be AMAZING is a jigsaw. Makes cutting mats take one minute and little effort versus a utility knife (which I tried) taking much longer. Jigaws are used for so many purposes they are worth the investment on a farm. I’ll be back later to update and post pics - sometime this winter when everything calms down on the project.
And I am using a utility knife for small cuts here and there and another gem idea on this board was using WD40 after the initial cut and that is a huge help.
Great thread. Can y’all help with my questions?
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So 3/4 interlocking mats will shift less than the standard TSC smooth-edged ones?
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If I can do removable walls, it would be best to create the stonedust base first, lay the whole line of mats second and drop in the interior walls third?
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Can you all, especially @SusanO explain the virtues of having those interior stall dimensions be 12’ as opposed to building them 12 on center?
In my line of stalls, a middle one will be used as a grooming area. There will be more traffic there. The walls will be removable. Does that change what you’d do with the mats? Also, the end stalls will be 13’ wide. I assume that details doesn’t matter for laying my mats one way (one long strip before the walls) or the other (walls first, mats within individual stalls, second).
Thank you!
