JD subcompact 1 family tractor----differences? to consider in models?

[ayrabz]

http://www.deere.com/en_US/products/equipment/tractors/sub_compact_utility_tractors/1_series/1_series.page?

I had hoped? JD page would give a ‘comparison’ column to review one against the other. Their comparisons online are for their product vs. other companies.

I review these as best I can, and, aside from factory installed FEL and ergonomic seat improvements I only find HP?

am I missing something? I’m seeing? for my needs no reason to go above 1st level shown…but I have one month to decide IF I’m going with one, in order to get in on 60 mo 0% financing and $1500 towards any 2 or more implements.

I would love to know your imput on the plusses/minuses of one or the other of this series. (No, I’m not (!) anxious to add $$ on, unless I’m really not considering an important factor.

I find? they’re each 4 wd and diesel, and that’s important.
hey, Jim in PA…what are your thoughts?

[Jim_in_PA]

Kubota’s BX lineup is similar to JDs…differentiated by engine horsepower primarily. The 1023E appears to be the base sub-compact and is suitable for folks who want the most affordable unit and don’t have a need for heavier work and features that the slightly higher horsepower 1025R has.

Personally, unless there is a HUGE difference in price, I’d opt for the 1025R if you’re going Deere. It not only has a little more power, but it also is a little heavier. Both have nice Yanmar diesel engines and again, there is a little more power available in the “R” model.

These little machines are truly workhorses no matter what, but I will be honest that there are a few times I wish I had a little more “oomph” with my BX22 (circa 2001) when I’m doing heavy FEL work around the house.

And unless you are planning on doing a lot of dedicated finish mowing on your lawn, be sure to opt for the more aggressive industrial/ag tires for better traction when doing “real work”. That and either wheel weights or a weight box on the back (I leave my backhoe on for a nice 700 lb traction lift ) will really help performance substantially when you are working hard.

[tangledweb]

The brochure might have it in an easier to compare form
http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/html/brochures/publication.html?id=2fc2d3e8#10

[Anjou]

I spent a lot of time researching subcompact utility tractors (SCUTs) before I purchased a JD 2305 w/48" FEL, Ballast Box, I-Match hitch and 62" belly mower in 2007 for roughly $15K @ 0% for 36 mos. I have a 7 acre homestead – 5 acres of pasture and 2 arces of lawn; no woods. The 2305 has the 24HP Yanmar diesel with hydrostatic drive and 4WD. I use it extrensively and it’s the best money I ever spent.

PROs:
(1) Endless uses for the FEL.
(2) Tooless removal/installation of FEL, mower deck, and I-match compatable rear implements in 5 minutes.
(3) Owner’s manual tells the average owner how to do all routine maintenance.
(4) 4WD coupled with a diesel engine has great power and torque under heavy loads.
(5) You can cut a full 60" swath through 4 feet of overgrown pasture while going up a 45° incline!
(6) You can lift prolly 700 pounds up to 6 feet in the air.
(7) Great for turning compost, moving small hay bales (not the large round ones), and snow. I’ve chewed through 6 foot high drifts on my driveway.
(8) Cutting 60" of grass in a single pass means you can clear about an acre per hour.
(9) Sips diesel at about 1 gallon per hour.

CONs:
(1) Breakout force of the FEL is weak.
(2) Hydrostatic transmission filter and plastic cooling fan is unprotected and vulnerable, unless you have an aftermarket skidplate or a belly mower underneath.
(3) Low ground clearance.
(4) Package cost as much as a new car at the time.
(5) High Cost/Benefit ratio for the backhoe attachment.
(6) Low ground traction on snow/ice due to low weight of tractor. I have industrial treads and don’t use any supplemental weights, except for the loader and 350 pounds of sand in the ballast box.
(7) ROPS lights are a necessity when doing loader work after dusk.

I had the option to purchase another model with the same engine/attachments with a mid-size frame for an extra $3K (in 2007). At the time, I thought that was not worth it, but in retrospect, that extra clearance can be of value (snow over 8 inches or in the woods). Any color SCUT will do what you need, go for the best price and financining you can get.

How much land do you have and what do you need the tractor to do?

[Jim_in_PA]

@Anjou;7776569

(2) Hydrostatic transmission filter is unprotected and vulnerable.

There may be aftermarket skid plates available for this issue…I know there is for my Kubota BX22 and I’ve considered getting them since I don’t have the mid-mount mower anymore and mostly do “ground engaging” work. The folks at the TractorByNet forums may be able to point you to something.

[Equibrit]

Do you have to go JD ?

http://www.kubota.com/product/bx70/bx70.aspx?

Same financing and rebate.

There’s a competitive comparison tab for each model. (other models)
And for their models under specifications tab.

If you use a tractor a lot you’ll appreciate the fact that some Kubota models have a really nifty “telescopic hitch ends” arrangement. Absolutely no swearing when hitching up implements !

JD do have a “product selector” http://www.deere.com/wps/portal/dcom/productselectorresult?siteName=en_US&showAllFilters=true&categorySetName=Small+Tractor

[Jim_in_PA]

Equibrit, sometimes the choice is governed by the local dealer marketplace. For me, Kubota goes hands-down…three quality dealers within 10 miles. One JD dealer (new to the area with no service history) at 13 miles and one NH dealer about 15 miles who doesn’t really cater to the sub-compact market. What the dealer network is where the OP is will be important.

That comparison chart is nice…

http://www.kubota.com/assets/product/comps/BX70/BX70_comps.pdf

[ayrabz]

You guys are so fab. Seriously…there isn’t a ‘how to’ book on the market for everything in horses—I would be lost without these forums.

Jim in PA is correct that unfortunately I ‘feel’ I should go with JD simply because of proximity. (sure I like green, but not enough for THAT to be the reason!) Rather large (!) facility of theirs under 5 miles away.

I WILL again see? how far for Kubota, as I’m quite aware of their comparison value, but that doesn’t seem my best bet as far as servicing and warranties and maintenance programs.

[Simkie]

ayrabz, go chat with your tractor dealers before you decide.

We have a VERY local Deere place (less than 10 minutes away) that only handles the little stuff and they totally blew me off. Walked in, asked questions, and while they ponied up some info I felt like I had to work pretty hard for it. Wasn’t impressed.

The hay guy has a buddy who works for the BIG Deere people out here, so tried him. HUGE difference. He is SO nice and so responsive and so willing to help us out, even though we “just” bought a loader for our wee tractor and this guy sells equipment that runs in the six figures regularly. Closest location is maybe a half hour away, but he came and picked up our tractor (!) to install the loader and they’re washing it (!!!) We’re also having them do a service while they have it. Just to give you an idea of how amazing this guy is, he also came by the house so I could sign the paperwork. I figured he wanted a check, but nope…we pay when we get the tractor back.

So close isn’t always awesome. Go with the people who take care of you.

(We got the Deere with the place–included it in our offer–and have the 2320.)

[Jim_in_PA]

Whatever color you get, you’ll really enjoy it…these machines really are “can do” pieces of equipment that hold their value and run “forever” as long as you do regular basic maintenance. (which is generally extremely easy for an owner to do)

I just started teaching my 15 year old how to drive ours the other night…since she’s become an instructor at the barn where our horses are, it’s likely that she’ll need to occasionally drag the arenas and do other tasks with one of the two BXs that our BO owns. (they also have a new larger Kubota now for “real” farm work) I’d rather be the one to teach her for safety reasons…and within about 10 minutes she had the basics down and was practicing backing into small spaces…with my loader and backhoe sticking out front and back. I’m happy to say that there were no collisions with my trailers… LOL

[Equibrit]

I understand the dealer thing - my Kubota dealer is 50 miles away (even though there are some closer) I have dealt with him since '86, and he’s just opened a branch about 20 miles from me. I still deal with him; he just does the paperwork and tells me when to pick it up at the new branch ! They come get the machine if it needs work and they’re very reasonable. The closest Kubota dealer never has the parts you want and they employ a bunch of gorillas, but charge like they have F1 mechanics.

[Beverley]

I’ve had a 1025R for a little over a year, and been very pleased with it. Snow is not an issue (southern Utah) but whacking 6 foot tall tumbleweeds is. It does shock and awe on such stuff with the underbelly mower. I have the front end loader, a spreader, sprayer, and landscape rake. I did have an issue with the throttle needing adjusting, but happily the dealer came to me to service it under warranty.

[gumtree]

I have a JD 5525 4WD which is considered part of their “compact” line. But is substantially bigger then subcompact you are looking at. Bought it new 10 years ago with a FEL rated for 5 tons. Ordered with turf tires which lowers the over all profile and height. I hear what Jim in Pa is saying about tires and if this rig didn’t have 4WD the turf tires would make it very problematic. Still can be with when plowing snow under certain conditions without chains but is rare. But the benefits of less wear and tear and deep ruts that can be left by aggressive Ag tires out weigh the few draw backs for me and my operation.
Have never had any problems what so ever with the tractor. We have over 100 acres to look after, mow, bale hay, etc. I have used the FEL for countless things. Makes for a great “hydraulic lift”, to lift and hold equipment being worked on, lift the front end of my large Zero turn to clean and change blades, “scaffold bucket” to work off of, lifting rafters and other building material, etc.

Don’t know what kind of equipment is offered that needs hydraulics but if there are any that you may want in the future make sure the tractor comes with enough “ports” on the rear end to attach hydraulic lines to.

The $1,500 attachment rebate wouldn’t be a big motivator for me. JD attachments for what the average person would want/need are IMO way over priced because they are green and say JD. Like the counter balance bucket, which is “generic” in nature and can be had for half the price of a JD. As can pallet forks, mowers, etc.

Personally I am not a big fan of hydrostatic transmissions just seems like a very expensive fix if something goes wrong. With a manual if I loose/break a gear I still have others to work with until fixed.

The only thing that I would have really liked to have added is the enclosed cab, with heat, AC, aircushion seat, music. The extra $15,000 made the decision easy.

The next best thing to a cab is a hard shell “roof” that attaches to the ROP’s bar. I strongly suggest getting this if offered. If not there are after market available.

JD probably offers a light bar for that attaches to the ROP but I would bet it is JD expensive. These can be had at Wal-Mart or and Auto Zone type store. RV, 4WD off road catalogs for a lot less I would bet.

I run some New Holland equipment and like the looks of their sub-compact line. I also like dealing with my local N-H dealer for parts and service a lot better then the JD dealer (Atlantic Tractor) that I bought my tractor and some other equipment from.

[Jim_in_PA]

It looks like the 1025E/R come with R4 tires which are “industrial” tires similar to what is available on the Kubota. They are less aggressive than “ag” tires but have a lot more grip than turf tires. My older BX has what they called “bar” tires…sorta like ag tires in the tread but very wide and “floaty”. The only time they seem to rip grass is if you turn hard in 4wd.

[ayrabz]

Such great info. This all REALLY helps. Y’know, I will indeed go in and talk with them, because if they’re not going to be wonderful in service and attention I guess even the proximity isn’t going to help.
Jim, I’ll ‘see’ if we can afford the 25…is that the one that has the ‘factory installed’ FEL or not? Is there a big reason to GET one ‘factory installed?’ Also…the mower deck----anyone with the 1 family subcompact line that can let me know the availability to raise/lower (as in inches for cutting)…Our current Husqy I really do like for all the issues we looked for in a garden tractor…BUT…highest grass cutting is 3.5 inches. ugh. not ideal for pastures.

[Beverley]

I will add one thought that just now occurs to me. The ability to attach or remove the attachments (including FEL) solo was a huge plus for me. ‘The guys’ in the family are, well, really sweet and talented but ag equipment is just not their thing.

[Jim_in_PA]

Mid-mount mowers on subcompacts typically have height ranges that go from “scalping” up to 5-6" or so. When I still had the deck for my BX22 (I mow with a ZTR now), it cut at about 6" fully raised. Do note that mid-mount mowers were not intended for “heavy brush cutting” type work, but are fine for maintaining grass pastures, especially if you do them regularly. And today’s machines make for much easier on/off for the deck than my tractor’s generation. (those decks weight about 300 lbs and it was a very manual process for what I had)

I can’t answer the “Factory installed FEL” question…the process for installation is the same whether it comes in a package or not. It’s just more convenient for the dealer if the mounts are factory installed. (the FEL will still be on a separate pallet most likely for shipping) They may get slightly better pricing with the package, too.

[Beverley]

[QUOTE=Jim_in_PA;7778086]
Do note that mid-mount mowers were not intended for “heavy brush cutting” type work, but are fine for maintaining grass pastures, especially if you do them regularly. [/QUOTE]

You are correct, but so far my mower is putting up with my abuse quite admirably. I do cut high on the tumbleweeds and sagebrush and take the precaution of going slow and not ‘overfacing’ the mechanism. Of course the first cut in a pasture that hadn’t been watered or mowed for years was the worst, and over time it is becoming a nice, mostly grass, pasture. Pre-emergent and Weedmaster being important tools.

[Jim_in_PA]

Where you have to be careful with using a finish mower for “tougher stuff” is that the blades and drive mechanism are going to take a beating…they don’t have any “give” like there is with a true brush-cutter. Inspect the blades, deck, belts, drive-shaft U-joints, etc., frequently and also clean and lubricate frequently. You want to insure you catch any cracks or other things that can either cause implement failure or a safety issue.

[AKB]

Always get a bigger tractor than you think you will need. Once you see how easy it makes your life, you will want to use it for bigger jobs. We almost got a subcompact but the Kubota dealer encouraged us to get a B7500. It has been wonderful in the ?10 years we have had it. My only wish is that it was slightly bigger. When we had big snow storms, the bucket was great, but the snow removal would have taken even less time with a bigger tractor. It would also be nice to move the manure pile in 10 minutes instead of 20 minutes.