Learning about Trailers & Owning a Trailer

[GraceLikeRain]

What are good resources for learning about Trailers 101. I’ve always hauled with other people and am ready to make a truck (or van) and trailer purchase.

I have a small horse, won’t trailer others, and only plan to travel in a 2-3 hour radius. I should be able to have a smaller set up than many. Over the years I’ve heard a lot of admonishments about people trying to find the smallest set up possible and I certainly understand the idea that it is better to have too much power than not enough. I also don’t think I need a F350 and a $25,000 trailer in order to safely haul. I’m seeing two horse bumper pulls from $1,500 to $15,000+. I can see the visual differences but don’t understand enough to be a discerning buyer.

I want to learn enough about trailers that I can ask thoughtful questions and better understand what I actually need. I don’t know anything at all from what questions to ask a seller to what annual servicing is recommended.

Is there a horse trailering for dummies book out there?

[wsmoak]

There is “The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer” written by the EquiSpirit trailer folks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0876056869/ref=rdr_ext_tmb

https://equispirit.com/

I’ve walked around in one of those trailers briefly and it was very nice. Even if you decide to get something else, the book should help you understand the tradeoffs.

[Calvincrowe]

Get slightly more truck/tow vehicle than you need. It’s not the pulling power as much as the stopping power and wheelbase to stay stable with a tow on behind. As far as trailers, think about those you’ve hauled in before with friends. What did you like or dislike about them? What does your horse prefer?

There are folks who swear by slant loads, straight loads, stock trailers, etc. Everyone has a preference based on personal values/experiences. With a straight load you need to have a horse that loads and stands well so you can do up the back, slants are easier if you’re alone, but often are smaller inside length-wise for a horse.

My must haves:
Tall height! Even if your horse is small, you may need to haul a bigger horse someday. 7’6" is a good tall height. Think resale value as well.
A dressing room: you have stuff. That stuff either gets chucked in your tow vehicle every time you want to haul or you can put it in the trailer permanently (buckets, pitchfork, extra halter/lead, etc.) plus the tack you’ll need for that trip. I like to have a space for my things separate from the vehicle. And I can change clothes or rest if I need to in the DR. Heck, I’ve napped in mine!
Safe floors/doors: If buying used, double check these. Along with any sharp welds, broken things, be vigilant. You can have a trailer inspected at a repair place.

[Scribbler]

@GraceLikeRain

What are good resources for learning about Trailers 101. I’ve always hauled with other people and am ready to make a truck (or van) and trailer purchase.

I have a small horse, won’t trailer others, and only plan to travel in a 2-3 hour radius. I should be able to have a smaller set up than many. Over the years I’ve heard a lot of admonishments about people trying to find the smallest set up possible and I certainly understand the idea that it is better to have too much power than not enough. I also don’t think I need a F350 and a $25,000 trailer in order to safely haul. I’m seeing two horse bumper pulls from $1,500 to $15,000+. I can see the visual differences but don’t understand enough to be a discerning buyer.

I want to learn enough about trailers that I can ask thoughtful questions and better understand what I actually need. I don’t know anything at all from what questions to ask a seller to what annual servicing is recommended.

Is there a horse trailering for dummies book out there?

A trailer should have brakes and electrical and floors checked, and axle bearings repacked, every year.

If you can park it inside, do so.

You should keep the inside wiped down for mold, and pick out the poop after every trip.

Number one question is what configuration of trailer you and your horse prefer. Then you decide what features you want.

For me, I needed a “warmblood sized” two horse straight haul with a separate tack room. I wanted escape doors at the front, and breast bars not mangers. I didn’t have a preference ramp vs step up but ended up with a ramp which I now like. I would prefer a trailer where you could keep one half shut behind while you loaded and loaded the other horse but didn’t get that. I also wanted visually light bright and airy inside.

Many older trailers are smaller than I wanted. You should figure out the height and length you need for your horse and that will let you sift out many options.

[SharonA]

I have a Brenderup; you can’t get them new in the US anymore, but Bockmann trailers are similar. These European trailers are designed with lower tongue weight (less weight resting on the hitch) than many American trailers, and are compatible with many SUVs and some sedans. I love, love, love the Bupster; it is cool and bright and quiet and roomy for my 15hh stocky horse, and just hums along behind the tow vehicle, not causing any drama whatsoever. These trailers are expensive; for me, the Bup was a good choice because it meant I didn’t have to buy a separate tow vehicle; the family minivan and SUV were comfortable towing and stopping it. I would like it to have bigger windows, but, not a big deal. Easy to maintain, easy to hitch. Mine doesn’t have a dressing room, but I don’t care since there is plenty of storage in my tow vehicle.

[GraceLikeRain]

@SharonA A Brenderup or Bockmann is pretty much exactly what I’m looking for but I don’t think I’d find one in my price point.

I’m going to be hauling an 800 lb pony alone. Unfortunately, I’ve only hauled her once but it was in a 2 horse straight load with a ramp. She was decent for a horse with holes in her training so a single murky data point.

I’m pretty sure that I want a two horse bumper pull and would prefer a step up to a ramp. An escape door seems pretty mandatory to me and I’d like a tackroom or space below a manger. I think I prefer a manger to a chest bar because it feels less inviting for a nervous horse to test. Stock sides would be a plus because summers in the south are no joke.

Our current truck will be sold as it isn’t suitable for hauling. I’m actually leaning towards a E250 or E350 utility van with a towing package because it would be more accomodating of DH’s hobbies and I think cheaper than a truck of a similar capacity.

I see a lot of those old school small steel 2 horse straight load BPs bouncing around. Beyond being aesthetically pretty sad looking compared to the big fancy new trailers, is the design such that they really are inferior? This is a random ad from trailer world but my initial inclination is to do something like this, get a new paint job, and have it thoroughly checked out. Horrible idea? https://horsetrailerworld.com/home/trailerdetail.asp?ID=1383916

Trailers seem to be a lot like horses where there is a huge price range. Can I get a safe, functional trailer used for around $5k or is that like trying to find a 2’6 childrens hunter that will ribbon for $5k?

[LSMarnell]

A few things to keep in mind. A steel trailer is a lot of maintenance to keep rust at a minimum. And they all rust. The trailer you have linked to, do you see all the rust along the bottom of the doors and along the windows? That will get a lot worse, quickly. I just spent 16 hours over 2 days washing, beating back rust, and painting my trailer, and I do it EVERY year.

If you do happen to find a used Brenderup, MAKE SURE you go over the floor with a fine tooth comb. It has been suggested that all the original floors on any Brenderup here are shot and are very expensive to fix. There have been threads here with a whole lot of good explanation about them. I personally know someone who didn’t know about this and lost a very large amount of money over it. Never was able to get the trailer fixed.

Also, there are a significant number of horses that absolutely detest the type of trailer you have linked. They are much smaller inside than you think, and are very claustrophobic to some horses. Even small horses. My horse is 14.2h 750# and he would hate that trailer. So if you are going to consider one, it really is important to know that your horse is OK with them.

Can you find a safe, functional trailer for $5000. Probably. Depending on your area. But it’s going to take a lot of looking. In a way it can be like horse shopping, they all look great in the pictures, until you actually go look and see how much you couldn’t tell from pics!

[DQ_Foxhunter]

I think the trailer you linked should be fine for what you want.
As mentioned above steel rusts, so go over the trailer carefully, it probably has wood floors, so check those out carefully also.
Before you go have some idea of the price of a new floor.
I hunt and a lot of people like to haul those smaller trailers ( if they have small horses) to some of the meets, that have parking in some pretty rugged spots.
As another poster said make sure your horse will load in that kind of trailer.
If you can up your budget a bit, some of the newer trailers are made with galvanized steel, which is supposed to be less likely to rust.

[clanter]

my concerns (I guess we all have concerns LOL) is the color of the linked trailer being a dark red, in the south that will add about 20 to 30 degrees of internal temperature in the summer … might have been fine in Minnesota where that trailer is tagged, but we have always used gloss white…and it also makes the interior of the trailer brighter.

As mentioned minor rust needs to be addressed, but if done so a steel trailer in the south will last a Very long time. Our steel two horse is fourteen years old. Last week daughter had stopped at a fuel stop where some other horse people were looking at the trailer wanting something similar…they thought it was new.

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Used Trailers, expect to be replacing all the tires as often the tires are as old as the trailer .

[wsmoak]

> I think I prefer a manger to a chest bar because it feels less inviting for a nervous horse to test.

Ah, I’ve been told of the time we had to leave my pony at the stock yard overnight after the little local show because she was intent on climbing out of that trailer and had gotten stuck with her feet in the manger…

You might prefer a manger, (especially for the storage underneath). I like the horse to be able to put their head down and cough or blow out any crud they’ve breathed in. Unless you’re hauling long distances this is probably not a huge deal, just something to consider.

[ABookworm]

I bought my Brenderup Royal for $3,000 so you can find them fairly cheap. I have seen other Brenderup models for less but went with the Royal TC due to it having two stalls and a tack room. Join the Brenderup Trailer Owners group on Facebook. There are always BUps posted for sale on it and people willing to help look for what you want.

If you go the Brenderup route I would hold out and wait for a Royal or Baron. The Solo is extremely nice but being able to convert my Royal from a two horse straight load to a box stall is a big perk. My large pony (750lbs) hauls better when she can have the full box stall but doesn’t seem too upset by having to use the straight load on the Brenderup.

[Arelle]

You may think I’m nuts - but I’d actually go this route: https://horsetrailerworld.com/home/trailerdetail.asp?ID=1369890

I have a three horse slant and I’ve had it since we bought it brand new in 2003. While I am in the market to upgrade to something bigger to pull some of my bigger hunt seat horses, I have always loved my trailer - it’s inviting, it can be used as a box stall if needed, and I’ve not ever met a horse who wouldn’t get on it. You’ve also got a front escape door on the one I linked so you can tend to just the first horse if need be. And, since there are slatted sides instead of windows - it stays airy in the Texas heat.

My original trailer was more in line with the red one you linked. It was terrible. My old (19 at the time) schoolmaster REFUSED to get on it. He was a kid’s horse, kind soul - R.E.F.U.S.E.D. Walked right on my slant. The only horse I could ever get to load in it was my 14.3 hh, 76’’ blanket wearing paint mare - and she looked like a busted can of biscuits in it. I hate those old side by side bumper pulls - they’re claustrophobic.

[CobJockey]

I’m also a one pony owner and didn’t want to even have the option of trailering another horse. At the time I bought the trailer I drove an older truck and I wanted as little weight behind it as possible, but I didn’t want to sacrifice structural soundness or stability. I ended up with an aluminum Shadow 1H slant BP with a tack room that weighs 2100 lbs empty (it’s on the same chassis as a two horse straight load with no tack room, so it’s full width, 12’ long and warmblood height) and I am just over the moon happy with it. Another option for you to think about. I tow with a full size 1/2 ton and wouldn’t go any lower - even loaded I can brake as if the trailer isn’t there which is a HUGE weight off my mind when towing.

[Pezanos]

I thought this presentation was great:

https://www.slideshare.net/CoyoteSpringFarm/usea-trailer-safety-seminar

[NC001]

I am buying a trailer this week from a friend. I know nothing about trailers but I know she has taken good care of it and I can resale easily based on the number of offers she’s already had.

It is a straight load and I’m sure some horses will not like it and it will not fit larger horses. Luckily we tried our 2 smaller horses and they went on no problem. We are just going to be going locally. I am concerned about the heat and will plan for only very short rides during the hottest months.

[clanter]

@wsmoak

> I think I prefer a manger to a chest bar because it feels less inviting for a nervous horse to test.

Ah, I’ve been told of the time we had to leave my pony at the stock yard overnight after the little local show because she was intent on climbing out of that trailer and had gotten stuck with her feet in the manger…
.

admittedly I have only witnessed this once but that was enough to convince me never to have chest bars. We were in Simpsonville, KY on US 60 following a trailer and saw that the horse was in distress.

Got the driver to pull over…horse had hopped over the chest bar, front feet were dangling in the air, horse was on its barrel , could not breath and passed out hanging in the air. To this day I do not know how I was able to grab that horse’s halter and pull the passed out horse over the chest bar… then it basically melted to the floor, sliding out the escape door as if it was some sort of jelly. Horse lays as if it was a puddle of goop , regains consciousness, gets up, shakes it head, stand up then reloaded back in the trailer and Stood Still as if nothing happened

[GraceLikeRain]

Thanks everyone. I knew there was a risk in tossing up a random trailer being taken too literally as an actual viable option. The more I read the more it seems like a used stock trailer is a better option than an old school manger with the bottom tack cubby.

Locally there is a company “Bee Trailer” that makes a few stock options with a tack room that weight 2,500-3,000 lbs. New prices seem to be $7-9k so I’m thinking that used options may drop down towards my $5k goal.

• 3,000 lb trailer
• 900 lb horse
• 300 lb supplies (seems really generous but thinking a few bales of hay or a loaded wood tack trunk)
  = 4,200 lb loaded trailer.

From old threads, it seems like I need to stay below 70% of the maximum towing capacity.

A vehicle that can haul 6,000 would meet my needs but I’d be in a precarious position if I wanted to haul a second horse in a pinch. If I had a vehicle that was rated for 8,000 I could put a 900 lb pony and a 1,200 lb horse in a 2 horse stock and be safe because I’d be under that 70%.

Am I understanding that correctly?

The generic response of “get the most you can afford” or “I would only tow with a 1 ton” is super unhelpful so a lot of the old COTH threads are less helpful than I anticipated.

[Texarkana]

One thing I learned embarrassingly late in life is that just about every part of your rig has a weight rating. Vehicle “towing capacity,” which is a debatable term to begin with, is only one part in determining how much weight you can safely tow.

Installed hitches come in 5 different weight classes. The bar and balls themselves have different weight ratings. The coupler on your trailer has a weight rating. The axles on your trailer have weight ratings.

I was pretty horrified when I realized my old 3/4 ton suburban had an aftermarket class III hitch installed that was only rated to 3,500 lbs! I towed with that vehicle for years and didn’t know not all hitches are created equal; I learned quite by accident as I crawled up under the vehicle one day and saw the sticker. I’m thankful there wasn’t an accident because of my ignorance!

[chai]

I’ve pulled with a bumper pull 2 horse Shoop with our Chevy Suburban and it was great. We had a tow package installed and never had a problem with it.

We moved up to buy a new Ford F350 crew cab with a long bed and a new Kingston Brunswick 2 horse gooseneck with a dressing room. We LOVE that trailer even though we only used it about 20 times and now I’m selling it. The F350, however, started rusting out in the bed and around the wheel wells and needed front end work before 75,000 miles. What a dog it was…such an incredible disappointment, as it cost a small fortune.

I would highly recommend any Kingston trailer. They are extremely well made and hold up well. I loved the Shoop, too, although we had to repaint it after 5 or so years.

Both set ups towed really well, but I also noticed that the center of the back seat in the F350 blocked the view of the frame hitch in the bed of the truck, so it was really hard for me to gauge backing up to the hitch on our gooseneck. We bought one of those attachments that has a ball and stick attached to the two pieces of the hitch and it helped a lot.Ford may have addressed that issue in subsequent year models.

I wish you all the best. It’s fun to have the freedom to come and go as you wish, especially if your horse is a good loader and traveler.