Leash-walking the Squirrel-sharp Pointer-mix - my shoulder needs your help!

[tarheelmd07]

My husband and I recently adopted a loveably goofy and drop-dead gorgeous Boxer/Pointer mix from a local shelter - she’s approximately a year old and about 55 lbs. She seems to have little to no previous training, and has been making good progress with basic commands, our intro obedience class, and leash-walking skills…

until we see a squirrel (or a bunny…)

people…cars…other dogs…even cats…not a problem…but encounter one of those little rodent-type creatures, and she freezes, points, then flings herself at the little furry target.

Any suggestions for working on this issue? She started off as a pretty bad leash-puller, but some basic obedience, practicing our heeling and about turns, etc. has helped greatly with this…and we can maintain a nice, calm, non-pulling leash-walk until we see one of those pesky furry rodents. My shoulder thanks everyone in advance for any suggestions…as it’s taking quite a beating!

And just because she’s so cute - here’s the squirrel-sharp girl herself - Widget

[wendy]

check out “control unleashed” ideas about squirrel chasers, many people find these work really well, I use them myself with good results.

I think the fact that she’s pointing them first is good- also look into how they train hunting dogs, pointers- these dogs, in intense prey drive, find and point the prey, and with a bit of training they hold the point until released by the hunter. Most of the “pointing control” training can be done in the comfort of the home using toys in minutes per day.

I think you could easily combine her natural tendency to point with the ideas in control unleashed to rapidly get a dog who will notice, point, and not-chase squirrels (unless you tell her to), and who will be a happy girl on walks, doing her important job of pointing out (but not chasing) squirrels for you.

[paulaedwina]

I feel your pain -I live in the woods and have had 3 rhodesian ridgebacks. Talk about prey drive! So here’s what I did/do;

1. I walked them on harnesses. It saved their necks when they hit the end of the leash.

2. I walked them on my waist, not my hand. I have belt (a quick release) that all the leashes went on. The nice thing about that is that pulling is corrected more efficiently. When your dog pulls your hand your arm gives so he gets some reward for pulling even if you do catch on eventually. When your dog pulls on your body it’s like he was tied to a tree. No give.

The result was a pretty quick lesson on self correction, and I could walk hands free. All my dogs were/are loose leash heelers.

Paula

[Horsegal984]

Half hitching works great too. Take a long(6-10ft) leash and run it straight from the collar down the dgs spine. Just before the hind legs wrap the leash around the barrel and through the original line so it makes a hoop. Then when u pull, or the dog pulls it cinches their waist, which 10 times out of 9 makes them jump and immed stop pulling. Not a good long term fix, but works great in the short term, and for those times when 100lb untrained Fido is dragging the vet tech around the clinic.

[vacation1]

There are mixed reviews, but the headcollar (Haltis, etc.) supposedly were designed partially to correct pullers. I used one for the current dog, and it worked to some extent, but I never liked the fit (they kind of move around a bit, and are much more likely to come off than a traditional neck collar). As young and healthy as that dog looks (oh, the phase when their heads are bigger than the rest of them! so cute), the best cure is probably finding some way of getting her a good hard run as often as possible. I’d take her to the largest, quietest park with a 20’ line and let her rip.

[animaldoc]

Haltis/Gentle Leader or pinch collar.

I know some people think the pinch collars are awful, but like anything else, when used correctly they are good for just these situations. I used one on a squirrel-chasing malamute that I had, and when it was on, he would just look at them…I started using it after he pulled me off my feet going after a squirrel one day.

[JWB]

First off, kudos for taking the time in training class. I know how hard it can be to get a dog with strong prey drive to want to stay with you when they see a critter though!

The Premier brand gentle leader works great IF you have it fitted correctly. Most dogs absolutely hate it at first (throw themselves on the ground and try to get it off) but if you keep them working (feed a lot) they learn to deal with it pretty quickly.

I tried the Halti brand headcollar before I got the GLs and they worked pretty well but they slipped a lot more. They need to be secured to a traditional collar because they can be rubbed off by a determined enough dog.

If the headcollars are not your thing, Premier also makes the Easy Walk harness which may be a really good option too. The leash attaches at the center of the chest. It’s very hard for the dog to pull with the leash at that spot.

[Bluey]

With a head collar, use a regular collar also and two leashes.

There was a recall of head collars, Halti I think, because some of the clasps were defective and were coming lose if a dog pulled.

If you try the loop on the waist, don’t do it out there.
Try introducing it first in a small space and preferably with a second leash and collar, as some dogs really go wild with that and you may either lose control or freak your dog badly if she overreacts.

I would try to keep training where you have control and wait to go where the squirrels roam later, once your dog knows better, she is very young and untrained yet.

I have known dogs with a problem like yours take until three to become proofed to whatever sets them off, even very well trained dogs from young.
Those are training problems that just happen, one or another will happen to any trainer with any dog.
Don’t feel bad, just keep working on your obedience.

[oldpony66]

I had similar issues (pointers too) and ended up with a prong collar (just google “prong collar” and some should come up).
I looks hideous and abusive but unless the dog pulls, the collar is comfortable. A couple times out with it and the dogs learned quickly not to bolt off or pull. In fact, just the other day I was out (regular collar, haven’t used the prongs in years) and GiGi bolted after a rabbit and nearly pulled my shoulder out of it’s socket and I was thinking maybe it’s time for a refresher with the prongs! Seems like she’s forgotten.

[AlmostDun]

Try an Easy Walk harness. They have a loop on the front to which you attach the leash. The harness discourages the dog from lunging two ways. First, if the dog lunges really hard, the dog’s own momentum will spin the dog around to face you instead of whatever the dog was lunging at. Lunging becomes less rewarding. Second, the loop tightens like a choke collar if the dog leans into the leash. Unlike a choke collar, however, the pressure goes across the chest, not the neck. I find the chest pressure is more effective at discouraging pulling, plus I don’t get coughing noises if the dog does forget and lunge.( I always worried about neck damage when the dog would hit the end of the leash too hard.)

[jcotton]

Get a shock collar, put on her, setting low, allow her to make a mistake, use your voice followed quickly with “Leave It” anda shock(quick zap or constant{depending on make/model of shock collar}). If the low setting is not enough, keep upping the ante until you get the result you want.

I have a Dogtra 1800, I use it on my coonhound when she gets too vocal on her squirrels -yowling(not a pretty noise)–(I don’t mind her obsessing on squirrels but with her mouth shut(or quiet muttering). And on my bassett, so she can be free but remember what “Come or Come Here” is.
The Dogtra 1800 covers a mile, I think. And comes in a single dog and multi-dog set-up.
I got mine at www.gundogsupply.com

[tarheelmd07]

Thanks for all the suggestions - we’ve definitely got some new things to try! She’s already in a Easy Walk-type harness, but we’re going to try a couple of the other suggestions. We’re trying to wear her out as much as possible before we go on our walks through the squirrel-infested neighborhood…and she’s definitely less interested in the squirrels when she’s a tired pup

[Simbalism]

I currently have my dog in dog obedience and I see alot of people using the premier brand of gentle leaders. Most dogs my trainer works with at least start in these to help the dog learn not to pull. My dog was not a puller and she started in a harness that actually has a slide from the chest to behind the neck instead of being around the neck like a choke collar. My dog has graduated to a martingale collar which works pretty well also.

[pluvinel]

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