I prefer english for everything- including long trail rides and even some cattle work. HOWEVER, we now have a horse without a rider so I’d like to pony him on trail rides. I think I would prefer to have a horn to wrap the rope around- in case pony horse wants to pull my arm off- hopefully only every so often. So I am looking for something that is lightweight- I’d consider an endurance type saddle but I’d also consider a more traditional (but light weight) western saddle so we can fit in if we want to “be western” every so often. Advice welcome- also prefer to not spend a fortune if at all possible. Finally do any western/endurance saddle have an adjustable gullet? One of our horses has shark fin withers- the other does not (would probably use the saddle more on the horse with the “normal” back). Both horses are TBs.
The Bighorn saddles are fairly light. The seat is leather for durability, but the fenders and skirts are cordura, which makes the saddle a lot lighter and gives it some degree of weather resistance.
I used to trail ride in one and it was very comfortable, too. I don’t have a ton of experience with the brand other than that one saddle, but it seemed well made and it certainly lived up to the abuse I put it through.
http://www.horsesaddleshop.com/big-horn-saddles.html#.VEP5E_nF_mh
I have a Fabtron. Like the Bighorn it has a leather seat and cordura skirts and fenders. I really am very comfortable in trail riding.
Maybe something in an Aussie saddle? I use two different western saddles myself but they aren’t light, along about 33 and 42 lbs.
I pony at the racetrack and I wouldn’t reccomend wrapping the rope around the horn. Even a simple dally is a lot tougher to get off quickly with a panicking horse than people realize. I’ve managed to control runaway horses without needing to use the horn, and honestly I’ve never even considered that a real option.
[QUOTE=Angelico;7813961]
I pony at the racetrack and I wouldn’t reccomend wrapping the rope around the horn. Even a simple dally is a lot tougher to get off quickly with a panicking horse than people realize. I’ve managed to control runaway horses without needing to use the horn, and honestly I’ve never even considered that a real option.[/QUOTE]
Well that’s good to know. My concern is that I would be ponying the horse out on trails and if he were to get loose it could be a problem- especially if we are near a road. If anything I would probably just put the rope over the horn (wouldn’t wrap around the horn)- when I am concerned that the horse being led is becoming a little to hyper.
I don’t know about the safety of wrapping the pony rope around the horn, but I have had good luck with the bighorns- reasonably priced and can take a lot of abuse. If you are used to english, I’d recommend looking at the girth converters. So much easier than western rigging.
http://www.ridingwarehouse.com/Mad_Tack_Biothane_Center_Fire_Rigging_Billet_Set_1/descpage-MTBCFRB1.html
Go here:
http://www.americanmilitarysaddle.com/1900.html
Scroll down to 1913 Mule Saddle. Weight is about 18.5 lbs. There may be other makers of this saddle. I’ve seen this guy’s work and met him in person. The work is first class and I didn’t get any “bad vibrations” from him.
G.
Please do not dally a rope around the horn of your saddle, very hazardous. When ponying another horse use the right equipment to be able to control that horse. This can be a nylon or leather halter on the horse and a long stud chain over the nose with a wrap around the halter nose piece then run under the jaw and up to the upper ring on the near side of the halter. I prefer if using a chain to have a separate chain with a long heavy lead rope snapped onto the chain. GLOVES on your hands.
I tie single over-hand knots onto the lead rope at strategic spots to give me a good grip. I put one knot just about 24 inches from the snap. I hold the rope just above this knot to keep the led horse’s head near my knee. I put another knot further down the rope at a point that I can hold the rope and place the led horse behind my lead pony for narrow trails or going between trees, etc. Then finally I tie the last knot at the very end of the rope for safety. The tail end of the rope is always in my left hand with my reins and my right hand holds the lead closest to the led horses head. The knots help you keep a grip on the lead rope and not have it slip thru your hands.
I do typically use a Monty Roberts Dually halter and a lead rope, instead of the chain. There isn’t the weight of the chain to swing and bounce around when the horse’s head is moving. The halter releases pressure when the horse doesn’t pull back, tightens if the horse pulls. It is made so that it can be adjusted snugly on the horses head so the halter doesn’t twist and turn on the head.
Anyway, I’d rather do some ground training with tack that gives you good control then proceed to ponying. I’ve had a led horse suddenly turn and run behind my horse, wrapping the lead around my body and come close to dragging me out of the saddle. I’d rather be able to let the lead go then being caught in a snare. Also if you have ever had a saddle go sideways on the horse you are riding, you know you will come off, and this would be towards the ponied horse. Don’t dally.
chicamuxen
Actually on a ‘fresh’ one I just use a rope halter instead of the usual flat leather halter. And I pony as often English as western. I advise ponying a bit in the ring a few times to get the lay of the land and teach the ponied horse what is expected. If I am ponying for exercise, I want their head at my knee, no further forward whether walk trot or canter, but if I am packing, I want the horse behind my horse. They can and do learn both scenarios. If the horse is getting too far forward, simply raising their head instead of trying to haul back is far more effective, they don’t like the head up and quickly learn that staying in the right place keeps that from happening.
If the lead horse is not familiar with getting a rope caught under the tail, that ought to be fixed to avoid wrecks. Simplest way I know is to put horse in round pen, get an appropriate length of broomstick, place under horses tail, horse will clamp down, get scared, run around and sooner or later relax the tail and the stick will fall. Rinse and repeat til they know they’ve been had. Then, a lead rope under the tail won’t be an issue.
Agree gloves are a must, and when I am packing up or down steep trails, rather than hold the rope I tuck it under an arm in such a way that if I’m having trouble, I can just raise my arm and the lead falls to the ground. The horse being led typically isn’t going anywhere, not leaving buddies, and often doesn’t know they can when one quietly picks up the lead again.
Sorry to run on, the last post just got me to thinking though it wasn’t the OP’s question.
OK thanks so much for all the helpful advice. These two horses live together and get along pretty well for the most part so that is positive. Maybe I will just try the pony thing with my english saddle- following the good advice to wear gloves and put some knots in the rope to the horse being lead. I like the broomstick idea for dealing with tail clamp over a rope. I’ll have to try that with Ms. Mare. We once caught a run away horse on a trail ride and I had to pony it for about a mile- English saddle of course. My horse and the horse I had to lead did not care for each other at all so at one point the other horse got behind my mare. My mare started bucking which is not typical of her. Turned out the rope got under her tail. Thanks all. I’ll see what I can do. Worse case scenario- if things get hairy I’ll let go of the rope. Since Stoli (the horse being ponied) is in LOVE with Angel (the pony horse) I am sure he would come right back. Thanks for the saddle suggestions- I might still want to get another saddle anyway- as horse folk, aren’t we supposed to collect them?.
