Getting some quotes on run-ins and a couple builders have priced them with 3/4 CDX (plywood) for the interior kick wall. Is that safe for horses? I’ve always seen 2 x 8’s or 2 x 10’s used as liners. They will do those, too, but just more $$$. If the 3/4" plywood is fine, I’ll go with it though. Thoughts? These are for 12 x 24 run ins that are actually for my cattle, but horses may use them at some point (I’m always thinking ahead!)
This is what I have. No one has kicked through it. YMMV.
I did buy some treated for outdoors and painted the parts that were likely to get hit with rain/sun (around the opening). Just so it would last longer.
Edited to add: I think I lied. Mine might be thicker than 3/4. I would have to measure. It wasn’t much more $ to go thicker and now that I think about it, I think that’s what I did. I will just have to check.
It will probably be ok unless your cows are into kicking walls. All of my stalls and run-ins have either 1 inch plywood or tongue and groove, with exception of two stalls. Both stalls that have 3/4" plywood have a couple of toe indentations. Nothing major. One horse kicked it’s heels up in the stall and the dent is high on the wall. Other stall is over sized and was used as a run in for two young horses. Both are just incidental wear and tear, not like a horse was kicking the wall down. If you have a kicker, I wouldn’t use it.
CDX plywood will not have a smooth ‘good’ side. Both sides will have those football shaped depressions/defects + other imperfections – can mean splinters when horses rub against it. I personally would avoid CDX and go for plywood with one good side.
Not where I would try to save money. If you are planning for the future do it right with 2 by’s.
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3/4 plywood is what I have always seen in my area and plenty strong. I would keep it off the ground a bit and not do treated. Treated is cured with salt and encouraged horses to chew
IMO and experience 3/4 CDX will work fine. As long as it is framed properly behind it. There is a 2x6 in the middle of the sheet that it is nailed to also. Not just top and bottom. Without there is a possibility a horse could kick through it.
C D X is a coding for the type, quality of the plywood, C is the grading for the surface quality of one side, “A” being the best, D the other side which is almost always faced “inside”. X stands for the type of glue it is made with, more importantly what sort of “elements” it can withstand, where it can be used.
“X” some people think means Exterior use. But in fact mean “exposure”. Meaning it can be used for roof sheeting, wall sheeting, floor etc. and can withstand moderate exposure to the weather, rain, etc for a short period of time until covered.
So if I were using CDX I would install a 1X6 pressure treated “skirt board” on the bottom, grade (dirt) level and nail the sheeting on top of that. The pressure treated skirt board will withstand the test of time exposed to weather conditions. CDX sheeting set on or just off the grade (dirt) will delaminate and rot along the edge that is in contact to the ground. Even if it doesn’t get wet, moisture wicking from the ground will start the process. Or use pressure treated sheeting. But that’s about twice the cost of CDX. But I would still use a skirt board.
Personally I would always install a skit board on both sides of a run-in and start the siding on top of that. Regardless of the siding used.
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We do frame with metal C purlins and have one top, bottom and middle.
If you don’t, the plywood may bow a little in the middle and sheets won’t quite fit flush.
I forgot that on the ends in one barn, we used some left over 2" x 12", 8’ tall, also with a middle purlin.
We are near a sawmill and always use 1.25" rough cut oak. WAYYYY cheaper than 3/4 plywood and indestructible!!
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It is only cheaper for those like you that are lucky enough to live near some place that sells it cheap. For the rest of us 5/4 oak boards are crazy expensive.
We used 3/4" plywood as the kick boards on the outside of our barn in the over hang area. It has worked fine. Easy to paint to match whatever and that protects it some from the elements.
I have a mare that likes to kick with intent to do damage and she managed to make some hoof dents in it but nothing has gone even close to thru. No worse than the dents she puts in the 2x lumber that makes up her stall walls.
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Curious, what is the cost per board and what width, length does that get you? I have used oak fence boards, 4/4, 4 quarter, 16’ @ $8 each. $32 to cover the same sqf as a sheet of plywood. 3/4, rather 23/32 CDX aka RTD (next “generation” of CDX) costs around $27 around here.
For a more finished look I run the fence boards through a pretty inexpensive surface planer. Love surface planers, The can make a cheap board an expensive one for not much effort.
FYI for some people, 4/4 aka 4 quarter means a full 1 inch, unlike 1x which is 3/4 of an inch. 5/4 means 1 1/4 inch thickness.
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It’s been a while since we bought this, but it is VERY cost effective where we are. The boards are a “true” 5/quarters = 1.25 inches. Cheap enough that we use the remnants for fire wood. Boards are either 8’+ or 12’+ so we get two lining boards out of each board with scraps.
