long haul in bumper pull

[appendix100]

so when DD was riding w/ trainer, he hauled to shows for us. Still show with him, even though horses are at home now. Always felt safer with him hauling for us when it was a long distance in his big gooseneck.

When things open back up, we potentially will be going to some shows that are a fair distance away. I have a very nice logan riot slant, that is plenty roomy for my horse, but it is a BP. will be getting a gooseneck down the road, but it is still a ways away as we have to by a truck that can haul one first.

How comfortable will my horse be in my trailer vs the trainer?
looking at:
stability of BP vs gooseneck
only my horse, vs multiple horses (heat, urine fumes etc)
flexibility w/ respect to leaving & returning

We are looking at hauls anywhere from 3-12 hours…

[IPEsq]

I did those lengths plenty of times in a bumper pull. While 12 hours is long, I consider long hauls like 1/2 way or more across the country.

You still need a good amount of truck unless you are getting a specific BP to pull with a lighter vehicle. It’s mostly about the stopping, but if you have any big grades to go up, having a bigger engine will be very helpful.

And get a weight distributing hitch to help with the stability and minimize sway. As far as comfort for the horse, if the horse part is roomy enough for him, there’s no real difference. You could in theory cram him into a GN configuration that is not right for his size just as easily.

I do think for the longer trips, the thing you might have to worry about with a slant load is the horse leaning on the divider in an uneven way and getting a rub on his butt vs being in a straight or box stall.

[Weezer]

I used to haul across the country with a bumper-pull. I never had any problems but we removed wraps and blankets for long hauls to prevent overheating and getting caught on something. I also tied the horse with twine so he’d be tied long enough for me to close the trailer but could have the freedom to move his head throughout the trip. If you do that, just be sure he doesn’t have enough room to turn around or get caught halfway. And always take all the safety precautions to be able to get him out safely in the event of a crash (speaking from experience).

[OverandOnward]

I clip the tie to the back ring of the halter, so the horse can have more room to lower his head and still not be able to try to turn around. Which it seems many of them think they can do, sooner or later.

Haven’t done many long-distance hauls with my BP, but the ones I’ve done have been uneventful and the horse did well.

[appendix100]

Do sway bars improve stability enough to be worth the trouble?

[fourfillies]

What is your tow vehicle? Years ago I did lots of similar trips with a Tahoe and Trailet BP with DR. Never wanted for “go” or “stop” power even up and down I-81 in hilly western VA but I won’t not have done it without sway bars and my weight distribution hitch.

[Arigold]

Yes buy sway bar and weight distribution hitch! Makes trailer more stable to pull and helps minimize hitch bounce.

[SonnysMom]

The longest haul I did was about 8 hours. I had an old steel Cotner 2 horse straight load no dressing room. That sucker was a tank but hauled well. I used a Chevy 1500.
I have a decent amount of hauling around that 4-5 hour mark with either the Cotner or a 2 horse straight load Trail-et with dressing room.
The majority of them have been with a 1500 with no sway bars and no weight distribution hitches and mostly with 1 horse. I live in SE PA and have been to OH, WV, VA, MA, near Syracuse NY.

I have hauled with a 2500 and last year I splurged and got an F350. All of mine have the 6.5ft short bed not the 8 ft bed.
Towards the end of owning the Chevy 2500 I was thinking I might want a weight distribution hitch but then I found out the truck suspension needed work and when it had the extra weight of the trailer it had a sway.

For my Arab cross I took him to a long weekend foxhunting and trail riding. 4.5 hours each way with lots of back roads. When I got home to the barn he didn’t want to come off. He was perfectly happy staying on the trailer eating hay. I had to go up front and push him off. I figure if he wasn’t eager to come off and go in his stall for dinner then out for the night he didn’t find the trip particularly stressful.

I know a lot of people on this board don’t recommend towing with a half ton truck. Personally I don’t feel that way. I have towed for 20 years with a half ton with no issues and no I have not been towing in only flat areas. Yes I preferred my 2500 but that also had heated seats, leather and was a crew cab. The 350 is nicer but it also is leather, crew cab, diesel, heated/cooled seats, sun roof.

I don’t know anything about slant loads but I don’t see a problem with using a BP for longer trips. I think the same driving applies- plan your stops so you don’t brake quickly, be careful in the turns, easy acceleration. Don’t do anything quickly. I pay attention to that light that has been green a long time and figure it will likely be turning red soon so slow down a little bit so I have more time to stop. You see the car at the cross street ahead- plan on them pulling out ahead of you so they won’t be behind the “slow” trailer. I think that as long as the trailer is well maintained the biggest difference on how well a horse travels is if the driver can give the horse a smooth ride. Be alert and be very defensive in your driving so you have more time to stop and not jar the horse.

[Lokinator]

We have done RI to MT and MT to RI twice in our 3 horse bumper pull. Horses have been fine both times. We make sure to stop frequently - which we needed to do anyway to refuel our big ol’ truck.

[B_and_B]

I used to do CT to Ontario fairly often, it was usually around 14 hours. The trailer was a bumper pull, an old, old steel trailer behind a 2500, long bed, Chevy that had a full factory build tow package. I think it depends a lot on the tow vehicle, that was a very stable configuration because of the truck’s design.
The horse was fine with it.

[2DogsFarm]

@appendix100

Do sway bars improve stability enough to be worth the trouble?

^
1000X YES!

Hauled my 2 in a straightload BP - with WDH & sway bars - for 16yrs w/o a problem.
I am not a fan of slantloads, but that could be because when I had one (also a GN) my 17h WB was squished if I had to haul him with another horse. Solo I’d tie back the partition so he had more room.
FWIW: I had 2GN trailers & am now back to straightload BP (stock type) & prefer BP.

For anything under 4h - GN or BP - I drive straight through.
Over 4h I stop at the 4h mark, offer water and just let horse(s) stand for a while so they got a break from constantly having to balance.

[endlessclimb]

@appendix100

Do sway bars improve stability enough to be worth the trouble?

I found a sway bar a total PITA because you have to be conscious about how tight of turns you make with it on. A weight distribution hitch is totally worth it, though.

EDIT: Lots of people mistake a weight distribution hitch for sway bars. Make sure you’re talking the same thing.

[appendix100]

I am hauling with a 3/4 ton suburban. Plenty of truck for the trailer, but I get really nervous passing the big trucks or in high winds, I can feel some sway. For short trips I don’t feel the need for the sway bars, but am thinking for the long ones if they help the trailer stability I may have them applied. Some peace of mind for me & if it will make the hauls easier for my horse it will be worth it

[PaddockWood]

Gotta have sway bars. MUST. I pulled my Trail-Et two horse with a V8 Tundra with no anti sway system and in high wind or on the highway with semi’s that feeling of it moving AT ALL was stressful.

Since my anti sway system was installed (maybe a total of $200 all in?) I have never felt ANY sway. Ever again.

And, several years ago I was behind a pickup and bumper pull with no anti sway system and saw it go out of control with the trailer WHIPPING back and forth and I thought for sure the trailer was going to flip. The driver was able to
slow down and pull over BUT her horse sustained a cut to its eye that required stitches.

[goodhors]

You could remove divider, give horse more room than a single stall, on long hauls. He can move body position to rest some muscles. Put good bedding under him to absorb wet, prevent slipping. I would use a tail wrap, prevents rubbing, aluminum marks on him from bracing during travel.

We stop every couple hours to give him a rest. The commercial vans have air-ride, very different than smaller trailer ride. He can pee, rest his legs while halted. Horse is working every mile traveling, adjusting to road bumps, passing other cars, semi winds knocking into the trailer as they pass. He gets tired doing that. Think of riding a bus while standing, over many hours! You may want to plan to arrive at the far away shows a day early, to let him rest, be at his best, before competing.

[Madhouse]

This hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Equal-i-zer/EQ37140ET.html?feed=npn&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2PP1BRCiARIsAEqv-pQqlPZS3erzye5ra-Xy6tX5maWNizRYBEcPZ0pv4PuWM-W84zCMHRoaAnzUEALw_wcB

It’s worth it’s weight in gold as far as I’m concerned. It is both a weight distribution hitch and sway control. It doesn’t interfere with cornering or tight turns with our set-up.

[paintedpony]

I confidently hauled our BP on trips as long as 17 hours (with a horse that travels very well) Stops were every 2-3 hours, check hay, water, pick muck, coffee/food/restroom and go. Travel planned to minimize hours of heat. My best advice is to bed trailer for long travel. To me that means 4-6 inches of damp cedar strips. They pack very well, providing secure footing that is unlikely to slip, and also has cushion.

I never unload at rest stops.

[goodhors]

@Madhouse

This hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Equal-i-zer/EQ37140ET.html?feed=npn&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2PP1BRCiARIsAEqv-pQqlPZS3erzye5ra-Xy6tX5maWNizRYBEcPZ0pv4PuWM-W84zCMHRoaAnzUEALw_wcB

It’s worth it’s weight in gold as far as I’m concerned. It is both a weight distribution hitch and sway control. It doesn’t interfere with cornering or tight turns with our set-up.

Looking at this, it appears the sway bars could be difficult to attach or remove from the trailer. Price seems rather high!

We had a Reese hitch with the sway bars, were very happy using it with an old 2H bumper pull. The bars were easy on and off with drop down carriers on the trailer. Having the good hitch and sway bars really did make a difference in hauling. Not getting slapped around anymore by the cross wind or back wash of passing semis. The price installed, with brake box, plug, was a lot less than $900!

[endlessclimb]

Ok this is what I was talking about with people not talking the same thing…

Anything in regards to bars and chains with lifting up on the bar hooks on the trailer etc are NOT sway bars. Those are distribution bars. They are not designed to assist with sway. They are exactly what they sound like - they switch some of the weight to the front axles for a vehicle that squats, and can help lift the tongue on a trailer that’s nose deep if you’re maxed out on adjusting the hitch itself. This will make the rig feel more stable, but that’s because having no weight on the front end encourages oversteering and just makes everything feel wiggly because it’s too light.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307218_200307218?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Trailers%20%2B%20Towing%20>%20Towing%20Accessories%20>%20Weight%20Distribution%20Kits&utm_campaign=Curt%20Manufacturing&utm_content=337780&&lid=92700053606955853&ds_s_kwgid=58700005861905672&ds_e_product_group_id=776973639816&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_e_ad_type=pla&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000001662305&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-_j1BRDkARIsAJcfmTHCfXzsIQywxpnT4zYBkBkbYp7XBs0ygOTTmuzYq0lazvBooE0G8rsaArZdEALw_wcB

Sway bars are designed to stiffen the connection between the truck and the trailer. They attach from a small ball on the trailer hitch wing to a small ball on the trailer. Whichever side they’re on - do not turn tightly to that side or they will bend your hitch and pop right off. This is a sway bar (singular, you won’t put two on)

https://www.campingworld.com/pro-series-friction-sway-control-32089.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-_j1BRDkARIsAJcfmTEFh3aigbX5qkU7sXQyWRQGhOiwLMrtEyB5DH-AzSCz6Q0GzkHXQEIaAnLkEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

OP, I have a sway bar I will give you if you pay shipping if you really think you need it. You’ll need to get the little balls and make sure you have the hitch that can handle it, but even when I was pulling a two horse with a Jeep I found it to be worthless. The balance of the trailer is 100x more important than a sway bar in regards to how it will feel behind you (balance being, good construction/design and also how you load it). Tip: drive slow and quit jerking the steering wheel around (people who take curves like this, you know who you are - jerk, center, drift, jerk, center, drift - instead of cocking the wheel appropriately and making mild adjustments from there). The people that end up with a trailer whipping all over were 99% going too fast or abruptly ripping the steering wheel hither and yon to stay centered in the lane.

[goodhors]

[QUOTE=endlessclimb;n10651207]
Ok this is what I was talking about with people not talking the same thing…

Anything in regards to bars and chains with lifting up on the bar hooks on the trailer etc are NOT sway bars. Those are distribution bars. They are not designed to assist with sway. They are exactly what they sound like - they switch some of the weight to the front axles for a vehicle that squats, and can help lift the tongue on a trailer that’s nose deep if you’re maxed out on adjusting the hitch itself.

You are correct, I used the wrong name go my bars. However, they were called sway bars by the trailer hitch folks who installed my hitch. So I called them by the same name for a lot of years. The showed me the setting to use when hooking the chains to trailer. I did not make my trailer “wiggly” because I did not hook the bars too tightly. There was a slight change in weight distribution, but the truck was not squatty, heavy or hard to steer. The use of distribution bars did improve sway control while hauling.